On Tuesday, we told you the amazing story of our (truly) hand-woven scarf.
Today, we continue to put noble camel wool in the spotlight with:
- Our interpretation of the thick cardigan, in two colors.
- Our jacket combining distinctive style and functionality, in two colors.
- Our exceptional handmade tee, in a natural color.
And to finish this capsule collection in style: herringbone flannel joggers in pure Italian merino wool, worthy of the adventurer charm and comfort of our other new products.
But first, clickable summary 📖
The revival of our thick cardigan (by Michel)
So far, you've given each of our chunky cardigans a very warm welcome:
Today, it's up to us to keep you warm by pushing it even further.
1. A knit that is as efficient as it is soft
50% camel wool: precious and prodigious 🐫
No, we did not set off into the Sahara with a lawn mower.
We are talking here rather about the Bactrian Camel.
Native to the plains of Central Asia , it is heavily armed with fleece to face the harshest winters, while remaining suitable for warmer seasons .
For several decades, the wool of the Bactrian camel is prized by luxury houses for the advantages of its fibers:
- Particularly hollow and light, they have exceptional swelling and insulating power. ❄️
- Their finesse gives excellent softness which improves over time 👶
- They are long and allow you to work magnificent stitches 👀
For example, this beautiful fluffy texture:
Bring your eye closer. Can you see the fibrils coming out to cover this soft bed of wool?
How did we come up with the idea for this mesh? - Benedict
We had this idea at Pitti!
But not at Pitti Uomo... It was at Pitti Filati in December 2019, this show reserved for brands where only suppliers of knitwear to make sweaters and cardigans exhibit.
When I saw this very soft yarn and these beautiful colors from this Italian supplier, I immediately understood that we absolutely had to make a piece in this very beautiful blend.
Its nobility is often compared to that of high-end cashmere, although the hair of our Asian camel is more robust and durable.
This fiber also owes its prestige to its rarity: in Mongolia . It only represents 1.7% of global wool production 🌎
You guessed it: it is therefore an expensive fiber. To give you an order of magnitude, in the luxury sector, we find camel wool coats between 1500 and 3000 euros.
It was important for us to make this material more accessible via these two cardigans.
50% extrafine merino wool: harmonious and balanced 🐑
We have combined the powers of merino wool to those of camel wool for:
- Stabilize the mesh and strengthen its durability 💪
- Maintain the right fluffy level ⚖️
Thus, the charming layer of "fluffy" on the surface maintains a measured density and brings just the right amount of character.
Behind this exceptional yarn, a 135-year-old Italian spinner located in Florence.
Its expertise: working with precious and fine fibers, which requires rigor and precision to obtain the best.
And to meet our requirements, Filati Naturali developed this beautiful navy and dark camel just for us.
He's also the one behind our superyak cardigan.
Its initiatives in the face of social and environmental issues since 2009 are summarized here 🍃
2. 100% cozy knit: enveloping and protective 🛡️
(BonneGueule white pants ).
Thanks to the remarkable qualities of this yarn, our Venetian workshop has created a knit:
- Thick , but light
- Soft
- Impressively soft
Knitted in herringbone stitch, the body contrasts nicely with the shawl collar.
Result ? A piece of addictive comfort, whose thermal performance always provides an appropriate level of warmth 🌡️
The collar, thicker than the body, is designed to effectively wrap your neck when needed.
Add a turtleneck, and you're ready for Alaska. (BonneGueule turtleneck ).
At BonneGueule, the knitted pieces are entirely re-knitted:
1️⃣The yokes are directly knitted into their final shape, with finished edges.
2️⃣The sides are carefully connected by a reinforced stitching.
3️⃣The collar is linked by intertwining loops.
- A clean and aesthetic assembly.
- A soft and comfortable knit in every way.
- Without risk of fraying.
3. My return after wearing this cardigan many times - Benoît
For the purposes of this article, I wore this cardigan extensively because I wanted to know how it performed against the superyak cardigan, which I also wore for a long time.
So, if we compare it with our superyak cardigan: it is just as warm, with a very compact knit to reinforce its "armor" side, but it is softer and more "flexible".
It's a really nice piece to wear, and reminded me why I love chunky shawl collar cardigans so much.
Since the material is fluffy, it will pill a little at the elbows for a while (but just at the elbows), don't worry, this is completely normal.
In return, this light down characteristic of the camel makes for a very soft material. Besides, its sweetness never ceases to surprise me, I never tire of it.
Back to the roots of essential men's clothing 👨
More than a timeless basic, the thick cardigan is a pillar of our wardrobe.
And it’s not this famous photo of Steve McQueen that will say the opposite:
Steve McQueen, in 1965 (Photo: Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images).
Beyond its effectiveness against the cold, its natural elasticity adjusts you and subtly highlights your build.
(BonneGueule white T-shirt and pants ).
It gives you style and follows your lines perfectly, while its thickness and lined shawl collar provide flattering volume to your torso.
Yes, we can say it: a thick cardigan, when first worn, changes a man.
4. A practical and elegant piece
If you only had one chunky knit to get you through your cold seasons, this would be it.
For what ? Because the thick cardigan embodies versatility.
☀️❄️ Thermal versatility...
- A winter walk in 8 degrees? It replaces your coat.
- A day at home at room temperature? It fits just as well.
...and stylistic 👔
A desire for layering? Slip a shirt between its mesh and your t-shirt.
Notice the balance between the elegance of the shawl collar and the relaxation suggested by the whole. ( Shirt, t-shirt, joggers and BonneGueule sneakers).
Want a tie? The shawl collar will frame it perfectly. This gentleman shows you how to do it:
Photo credits: Tomoyoshi Takada
Another layering desire? So do like this gentleman: insert a denim jacket.
1️⃣ Patch pockets and contrasting mesh gauges, for aesthetics.
2️⃣ Horn fish eye buttons made by the German Schaeffer and mounted on a tail for durability.
3️⃣ Rollable and adjustable cuffs as you wish.
| Neck circumference (cm) | US |
|---|---|
| 35/36 | XS |
| 37/38 | S |
| 39/40 | M |
| 41/42 | L |
| 43/44 | XL |
| 45 | XXL |
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
vs. Sleeve length |
d. Total length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 38.5 | 42.5 | 64 | 63 |
| S | 40 | 45.9 | 65 | 64.6 |
| M | 41.5 | 49 | 66 | 66.3 |
| L | 43 | 52.5 | 67 | 67.5 |
| XL | 44.5 | 56 | 68 | 69 |
| XXL | 46 | 59 | 69 | 70.5 |
Our two sheep/camel wool blend jackets (by Benoît)
Now let's see our jackets. We liked the relaxed look behind a jacket but we wanted to counterbalance it with a beautiful Italian fabric.
1. An Italian fabric that mixes sheep wool and camel wool
This woolen sheet is in a very raised weave and this is what gives it incredible charm. In terms of weaving, it's an armor called "Saia Inglese", very close to our yak coat. This allows you to have this magnificent relief:
The “Saia Inglese” weave gives a lot of personality to this fabric.
Here is its composition:
- 50% Bactrian camel wool from Mongolia, as for the scarf
- 50% sheep wool, which comes from Australia and is certified mulesing free
Camel allows you to have a fabric with a little more character than a pure wool fabric.
In terms of weight: it's 330g/m2, so a suitable weight for late winter/early spring.
The same thing in blue!
Bacci, a century-old Italian supplier
The wool comes from Bacci , an Italian supplier more than a century old, still run by the same family for four generations.
It is the Italian supplier typically calibrated for the luxury market, as it offers creative blends in a wide variety of high-end fibers: cashmere, mohair, and camel wool.
Bacci is also in the process of implementing serious actions for the environment, it adheres to 4sustainibility to reduce its use of chemicals and aims for zero waste production with the ZDHC organization .
But you know us, we don't just put a luxurious material outdoors. We want to be sure that you are always at the right temperature, neither too hot nor too cold, and for that, we have once again used our Polartec® ALPHA insulation.
2. Lightweight Polartec® ALPHA inside these jackets
Yes, like our Jules Tournier wool jackets, it is once again this wonderful Polartec® ALPHA which serves as padding.
Its main advantage is that it manages temperature changes and perspiration very well.
If you don't know this material at all, click here (be careful, it's long, and it's geeky):
In 2017, we were one of the only (and first) French brands to use Polartec® ALPHA as part of urban clothing. So much so that our Polartec® ALPHA parts now accompany the French Polartec team in its professional trade shows.
Two years later, I still remain satisfied with this insulation of the future.
It's not angora rabbit, but Polartec® ALPHA. On our piece, it is completely invisible, since it is located between the lining and outer wool.
For those who are not yet familiar with this fantastic insulator, here is what I wrote at the time:
The lifesaving reminder about Polartec® ALPHA
1. The importance of padding
This is the other great characteristic of this jacket: its hidden technicality.
I am frustrated to see that this element, although key to comfort, is too often treated lightly.
At an average brand, this is how the choice of insulation for a quilted garment is decided:
George-Michael, chief designer:
“Let’s go ask Jean-Mich from production where we’ll find the cheapest cotton wadding!”
(I'm barely exaggerating)
Most often, brands see it as the component that must be as inexpensive as possible .
They then simply specify that there is "padding", without ever indicating its origin or its properties.
It’s all the more unfortunate as clothing insulation continues to improve. So, as soon as I started to be interested in this type of material, it was clear that this aspect of our Jules Tournier wool jacket would be taken care of. My techwear side has spoken!
And very quickly, it was the Polartec® ALPHA that caught my attention...
2. Polartec, insulation for US Special Forces
Basically, the Polartec® ALPHA is an order from the Special Forces of the American army.
In cold regions , soldiers often alternate moments of intense physical activity, where they sweat, and much more static moments, where their body temperature can drop quickly .
“Snow fights between colleagues are fun, but what clothes should I wear? And how can I not be cold when it’s over?” This is where the Polartec Alpha® comes in! (Reuters credit)
Until now, Special Forces had a system of layers of clothing to remove or wear depending on the situation. Good old layering, in short.
It was painful, especially when the perspiration did not have time to evacuate and the soldier had to remain motionless: perfect conditions for shivering...
Their specifications were therefore as clear as they were complicated to implement. To protect them from the cold, they needed something that:
- keeps you warm (the base),
- facilitates mobility, therefore quite compact ,
- resists compression well , especially if you roll the garment in a bag or if you wear a backpack on top,
- breathe when there is movement: excess heat must be evacuated ,
- does not fear humidity and dries quickly.
And that’s how Polartec® ALPHA was born! Moreover, Polartec's marketing director will say that its technology " makes it unnecessary to remove or add layers during major activities. "
The bubbly Brendan Leonard humorously paints a portrait of the Polartec® ALPHA, comparing it with the snow owl. This animal maintains its body at 38-40°, even when it is -50° outside.
I was also reassured to see the list of brands using Polartec® ALPHA. Let us cite in particular:
- Arct'eryx Veilance ,
- who used it "in a sandwich" with Schoeller and merino on a vest (more than 400 dollars per piece, on the other hand),
- Sea to Sky ,
- Triple Aught Design , a techwear brand halfway between explorer clothing and an urban spirit,
- Kitsbow , a very nice brand of cycling clothing,
- Millet , Black Yak and Rab , which I can safely say are among the best outdoor brands in the world . Here too, that such demanding brands use Polartec® ALPHA is a very good sign for me.
3. But why does it regulate heat and humidity so well?
Usually, synthetic insulation resembles wadding, like cotton used in a pharmacy. Long cottony filaments form a more or less thick material. Problem: the wadding can sag, distribute poorly, be too bulky, etc.
Polartec therefore started from scratch, looking for another path .
Here, the filaments are replaced by a very resistant and stable mesh in the garment . There are tiny “hairs” on each side: these are what trap air and keep heat.
And it's the mesh structure that allows perspiration to circulate easily. It is important that Polartec® ALPHA dries quickly, because dry air is a much better insulator than humid air.
Since the whole thing is much more compact than wadding, this allows insulating clothing relatively close to the body can be created.
Polartec made a video of which they have the secret , and which explains in a very visual way how the Alpha® works.
Turn up the volume for epic music, and you'll want to save the world.
4. Quilting that doesn't sag
The Polartec® ALPHA has another advantage, quite simple for outdoor use but very important on more urban clothing...
Remember, other insulation comes in the form of wadding or feathers. If we place them as is as padding, these insulators sag . We therefore need to compartmentalize them: this is the "quilting in rooms", these small spaces that you see on any down jacket.
But we don't have this problem at all with the Polartec® ALPHA! Since it is a very stable mesh, it can be layered very simply - almost like a suit jacket interfacing - without needing to compartmentalize it.
In terms of the exterior appearance, on a “fashion” piece, it changes everything. We have an exterior that looks like a classic jacket, without the down jacket look!
5. So, what’s it like to wear Polartec® ALPHA?
That was the big question when I received the first prototype. Indeed, although Polartec is very breathable, on this jacket, it is still mounted under a good old Jules Tournier woolen sheet. So what interested me was compactness.
Well, for the moment, it's a jacket that fulfills its role perfectly . It's nice not to feel too hot as soon as you start walking a little quickly or inside a store, while being protected from the cold when you're sitting outside for example.
A year later, having worn Polartec® ALPHA several times, I still remain satisfied with this material which gives a "cozy" side to this piece. Those who have worn our sleeveless vest know what I mean, even though it's difficult to describe: it's an enveloping and comforting warmth.
When you combine Jules Tournier wool with Polartec® ALPHA, you also have a great windproof result.
6. Because I hide nothing from you: the limits of this room
Not the warmest insulation, but the most versatile
First of all, it doesn't replace a huge down jacket for very cold weather, like Canada Goose .
Quite simply because down is the most insulating thing. But at least there were — with certainty — no mistreated geese in the design of this piece.
Moreover, Polartec® ALPHA is not intended to be the warmest insulation possible, but rather the one that has the best bulk/warmth/breathability ratio.
And that was exactly what I wanted in this urban piece, which has to go from a hot subway corridor, to a cold street, and then back into a very overheated department store.
Polartec is also very transparent on this subject:
Is Alpha “warmer” than down or synthetic insulation, pound for pound?
Nate Simmons, marketing director of Polartec: " It's not warmer than synthetic insulation, for the same weight. We didn't try to invent a warmer insulation. We tried to invent a more breathable, more breathable insulation. active, and which stores more air .
In the same way that synthetic insulation is not warmer than natural down, but serves other functions.
This versatility allows the Alpha to be suitable for a wider range of activities and weather conditions. This is what makes it good padding under a windproof material, where other padded jackets do not wick away moisture well."
For city use, where you constantly go from hot to cold - while wanting to keep a fitted silhouette - this is precisely what interested me.
7. In summary...
Outdoor Magic , a great site on outdoor clothing, ends its review of Polartec® ALPHA with a rather reassuring conclusion... This is what reassured me in the choice of this technology!
Outdoor Magic: " Hmmm, it's ultimately a somewhat magical insulator. Not too hot when you move, not too cold or damp when you stop. This padding is the one we've seen the most this winter, and this is not going to change in the near future.
Is it an insulator? Is it a thermo-regulator? Is it a thermo-regulating insulation? Or mutant stuffing? Or a platypus material that combines all these properties?
You know what ? I don't know anything about it and I don't really care. What really matters is that it works. And it works admirably."
8. Your testimony about the Polartec® ALPHA
Because you are even better placed than us to talk about its warmth, we wanted to make a little space for a customer comment on its performance!
Thank you Jonathan for this detailed feedback!
3. Two colors for these jackets
These jackets come in two colors.
First there is a color that is close to a camel, to pay homage to the color of camel wool.
Then there is a navy blue version, which we wanted to be very urban. For the record, the unofficial inspiration for a blue wool jacket comes from a famous secret agent…
BonneGueule jacket, sweater , and cargo pants .
4. A wool and acrylic ribbing made in France
This is one of my favorite details on these jackets: the ribbed edges are in a blend of wool and acrylic.
Usually, brands prefer to only use 100% synthetic for cost reasons.
But not at BonneGueule. Here the addition of wool gives a very beautiful mottled effect — impossible to have with 100% polyester/acrylic — which goes very well with the colors of the two wools of our jackets.
Here is its composition: 46.5% acrylic, 41.9% wool, 10.5% polyamide, 1.1% elastane.
Some people will think that we are bothering for nothing, and that it is a detail that will go unnoticed by 99% of the people who see this piece, and they will be right. But I know it. And it's a lot of fun for me to achieve a finish appreciated by only 1% of our customers.
And for the record, it is another French company which supplies these ribs . More precisely, they are made in Inchy, in Hauts-de-France.
5. Four front pockets and two interior zippered pockets
There are two front pockets which are visible, very easy to access, and nothing is likely to slip out.
BonneGueule jacket, sweater , and cargo pants .
They are deliberately oversized so that they can easily slip in a pair of gloves or even a hat, without friction.
And even inside these pockets, there are two other zipped pockets to put your hands.
This zipped pocket accommodates your hands and secures certain personal belongings.
Here is the chest pocket, there is one on each side.
6. Finishes
The collar is different from a bomber jacket, since it goes higher up, it provides more coverage at the neck level.
As for the lining, we really wanted a cozy and welcoming interior, so it's a very soft cotton lining which comes from Cervotessile, a leading Italian supplier when it comes to linings.
On the other hand, inside the sleeves, to gain comfort when you put them on and to ensure that your arms "slide" well in the sleeves, we stuck to a usual viscose lining, still from Cervotessile.
7. What to wear these jackets with?
- With gray joggers and a turtleneck
The joggers are a perfectly suited piece with this relaxed but high-end atmosphere due to the materials used.
Jacket, turtleneck , hat , and BonneGueule boots .
- With ecru jeans and a thick sweater
White jeans will go perfectly with this type of piece, the result is both very chic and natural.
- With cargo pants and a turtleneck
The cargo pants are very consistent with the "urban adventurer" spirit of this jacket, for a result that can be very elegant, provided that the pants are made of wool.
BonneGueule jacket, sweater , boots, and cargo pants .
| Europe | US |
|---|---|
| 44 | XS |
| 46 | S |
| 48 | M |
| 50 | L |
| 52 | XL |
| 54 | XXL |
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
vs. Sleeve length |
d. Middle back height |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 44 | 46 | 51 | 66 | 62 |
| 46 | 47 | 53 | 66.5 | 62.5 |
| 48 | 48 | 55 | 67 | 63.5 |
| 50 | 49 | 57 | 67.5 | 63.5 |
| 52 | 50 | 59 | 68 | 64 |
| 54 | 51 | 61 | 68.5 | 64.5 |
| 56 | 52 | 63 | 69 | 95 |
Our ecru t-shirt, basic without being so (by Michel)
We have transmitted part of the charm of camel wool to another wardrobe basic, where you wouldn't expect it: the ecru t-shirt.
Result ? A unique piece in its composition which will bring variety to your wardrobe.
1. Character on the outside 👀
In a cotton blend and camel wool , our Italian spinner Ferrari Cotonificio has worked a yarn that takes the light beautifully 💡
In 1919, in the Italian province of Brescia, it was originally a small sock manufacturer.
Since then, the company has gradually grown to eventually acquire a key economic role in its region.
It was during the post-war period that the spinner specialized in cotton twisting. First, for its own products, then as a yarn supplier.
Today, the company also works with fiber blends like that of our t-shirt, with impressive results.
In addition to GOTS labels and Oeko-Tex , you will find all of Ferrari Cotonificio’s CSR certifications here 🍃
Then, it was our Portuguese supplier Vilartex who, from this yarn, knitted us a knit with a deep relief and loaded with charming details.
Based in the north of Portugal, it is a workshop with 130 employees founded in 1978.
It makes high-end knitwear designed using a sustainable approach with certifications such as Oeko-Tex, GOTS, and OCS. .
2. Tenderness inside 👶
On the reverse, a soft jersey ready to cuddle you to become your second skin.
This softness, the 20% camel wool, has something to do with it.
To the touch, this material has an unparalleled hand . Soft, pleasant, addictive.
3. A beautiful ecru color 🌈
Without dyeing, it is the original color of camel fibers who expresses himself the most on this t-shirt.
Logically, this light and natural color goes naturally with other shades:
Here, with gray, brown and white. It is an excellent base on which you can support your different combinations. (BonneGueule coat ).
A delicate reminder of beiges will always be welcome. (BonneGueule pants, Artisan Lab sneakers).
| Neck circumference (cm) | US |
|---|---|
| 35/36 | XS |
| 37/38 | S |
| 39/40 | M |
| 41/42 | L |
| 43/44 | XL |
| 45 | XXL |
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
vs. Sleeve length |
d. Total length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 38 | 45 | 18.5 | 66 |
| S | 40 | 48 | 19 | 67 |
| M | 42 | 51 | 19.5 | 68 |
| L | 44 | 54 | 20 | 69 |
| XL | 46 | 57 | 20.5 | 70 |
| XXL | 48 | 60 | 21 | 71 |
Our herringbone flannel joggers, hybrid category (by Michel)
To accompany these pieces, only one thing was missing: pants that would respond to their adventurous and relaxed spirit, in a beautiful complementary color.
1. An advanced style without thinking 🧘🏻♂️
This piece is designed to be taken from your wardrobe with your eyes closed.
It's there for those mornings when you want an easy, casual outfit with a strong style.
Because that’s all this jogger is.
1️⃣ It's easy: its gray and bright color is designed to combine harmoniously with any other.
This shade of gray goes equally well with brown and blue tones. Add burgundy or olive to the party, and the union will be just as obvious. ( Turtleneck and BonneGueule hat).
2️⃣ It is casual: its drawstring and carrot cut suggest a nonchalance that will help your look.
At the back, the patch pockets also add a touch of relaxation.
3️⃣ With a marked style: its chevron pattern gives it singularity.
Dark gray, light gray and white threads alternate to create this spectacle of nuances. Notice that the pattern is very slightly faded, to better blend into the whole with subtlety.
A timeless design for men's clothing, it pushes the cursor of elegance forward.
It allows joggers, which are casual in nature, to be worn better with more dressy pieces. Such as an unstructured jacket or a turtleneck.
This beautiful irregular design is woven from a single yarn and a twisted yarn into a 100% merino wool flannel with a fineness comparable to grade B cashmere: 17.25 microns .
Since 1903 in Biella, the weaver Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino has taken advantage of the purity of the water of the Alps to create materials of excellence.
Its main strength: combining traditional know-how and modern techniques thanks to its research and development department.
Regarding this beautiful flannel that our supplier made:
- It is of average thickness, i.e. 230g/square meter.
- The simple wire comes from a factory of the same group, located in the Czech Republic.
- The twisted wire comes from Italy.
Nonchalance preserved in the rain 🌧️
If it turns out that you don't want to worry about a rainy morning, you can still put on these joggers.
You understand: a water-repellent finish has been applied to this flannel.
So don't be afraid of drops, your relaxation can remain unscathed in all circumstances.
As always, nothing is left to chance in our usual workshop in Romania:
1️⃣ Cord from the Japanese manufacturer Shindo, 50% wool, 50% cotton.
2️⃣ The tips, for their part, come from the German company Jadberg and are made in Hong Kong, in nickel-free brass.
3️⃣ Horn buttons made in Germany, at Schaeffer, and sewn on tail.
4️⃣ Cotton pocket lining from Ugtex, in Romania.
| US (Jean BonneGueule) | Europe (BonneGueule Pants) |
|---|---|
| 26 | 42 |
| 27/28 | 44 |
| 29/30 | 46 |
| 31 | 48 |
| 32/33 | 50 |
| 34 | 52 |
| 35 | 54 |
| 36 | 54/56 |
| Measurement (in cm) | has. Size |
b. 1/2 thigh |
vs. Leg length below waistband |
d. Leg opening |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 42 | 37 | 30 | 103.5 | 16.1 |
| 44 | 39 | 31 | 104 | 16.3 |
| 46 | 41 | 32 | 104.5 | 16.5 |
| 48 | 43 | 33 | 105 | 16.7 |
| 50 | 45 | 34 | 105.5 | 16.9 |
| 52 | 47 | 35 | 106 | 17.1 |
| 54 | 49 | 36 | 106.5 | 17.3 |
