As a preview, BonneGueule would like to offer you an experimental article!
Readers had asked for watch tests, I wanted to offer a new format. Passionate about watches, I had noticed that those who have a good dress style generally have watches that are not very interesting while those who own beautiful watches generally have clothing combinations that could be greatly improved. There are obviously exceptions but we ourselves have made this observation.
This article aims to bridge the gap between two worlds that are both rich and complex. And it will focus on a new type of exercise: starting with a watch, reviewing it, explaining certain functions and creating coherent looks by combining clothes that refer to the style of the watch. It's not such an easy exercise... I was given carte blanche and here is the result! Enjoy reading. 😉 Don
According to a Tibetan proverb, " travel is a return to the essential" . What is essential? For a passenger, the essential thing is to go from point A to point B. No more, no less. For a traveler, it is not necessarily the destination that matters, but it is often the journey itself that constitutes the end result.
And beyond the journey, I think the real motivation is an irrepressible need for freedom. A traveler is, above all else, a free man. Free to leave and free to return.
Through these few lines, I would like to take you from the state of passenger to that of traveler. And perhaps even a little to that of a modern adventurer in love with freedom.
Tourists, travelers and backpackers
Many have visited countries around the world, few have actually traveled. I was lucky to have a father who actually traveled the globe for his job: force 11 storms , hellish temperatures in the desert with an average of 60°C with even a peak of 65°C in the sun , freezing temperatures in the Arctic with -30°C during the day and -40°C at night, not to mention the joys of the equatorial climate with humidity of over 90% . Countries at risk and even countries in a state of war… he has experienced almost everything.
No, he was neither an archaeologist nor an expert in mummies, but we're not far off.☺
Far from the small comforts of urban centers, he was not an ordinary traveler, he was a true adventurer. It goes without saying that an adventurer is more of an adventurer than a tourist, but above all, he is someone who prepares and adapts to almost everything.
Even when adapting and preparing, he is systematically confronted with the unexpected. Our current civilized world abhors the unexpected. Everything is categorized, everything is calibrated.
The adventurer doesn't really have time to take care of his style. This doesn't mean that when he returns to civilization, he won't try to wear a nice shirt and a nice suit.
I lived with the story and photos of his travels. Recently, I asked him: what watches did he and his colleagues wear during their missions? He answered that in his time, war journalists, raw materials prospectors and military personnel wore steel watches designed to be solid, waterproof and readable , they were often diving watches.
We don't remember it enough, but the French commandos wore Tudor Submariners for example, and many adventurers wore Rolexes. Long before they became luxury items, they were above all precise and reliable watches, resistant and which told you the time, whether you were on the open sea, in the desert or in an equatorial forest.
It's not the 60s anymore, but I asked myself the question: what watch would I wear if I had to travel the world again?
Means of transportation have evolved since then, but the idea is there.
The specifications
Diving watches are obviously perfect candidates and you have had the opportunity to discover our selection of diving watches for the summer .
In this respect, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a perfect balance with a contained diameter of 39 mm, a water resistance of 200 meters and excellent technical characteristics.
But not all of the watches in the selection were designed for peaceful travel. Some have prices that put them out of reach for many budgets, such as the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue or the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle.
To “travel”, you need a watch with:
- Excellent water resistance: 150 meters or even 200 meters
- Good visibility: the hands and indexes must be perfectly legible and luminescent
- A solid case: in 316L steel or titanium.
- A less precious look that makes you want to travel without trying to attract too much attention.
- A hypoallergenic and rot-proof bracelet , which excludes leather which, even when treated, does not appreciate the joys of water.
Of course, it is about finding a watch with the aforementioned characteristics - which excludes plastic/polymer watches - BUT also with an aesthetic that recalls the old watches of the 60s and part of the 70s : those that our parents could have worn but updated with today's standards and equipped with a very useful function for those who travel the world: the GMT function.
The history of GMT
The measurement of time has always been of crucial importance in the history of civilizations. In the past and up until the 19th century, people across the planet knew several hundred different local times.
When the vast majority of people lived close to their place of birth, this posed few problems, with the exception of a few merchants and travelers who had to systematically adjust their watches as they moved.
At the time when England was able to establish its dominance over international trade routes, the increase in the possibilities of traveling by ship and rail – we were then entering the middle of the Industrial Revolution – led to the need to establish a universal reference of time. The Greenwich meridian (Greenwich Mean Time or GMT) was adopted first by the sailors of the merchant navy and then by the British railway companies.
In the mid-19th century, GMT became the official time in the United Kingdom. Finally, the British and French agreed in 1884 to adopt the Greenwich meridian as the international reference meridian. and also the time zone system which divides the world into 24 time zones.
The map of the world's 24 time zones in all its glory. (source: actualitix)
GMT and UTC, the differences
Although the term GMT has remained, it should be noted that the current basis of international civil time is in fact UTC. UTC makes it possible to make the link between two measurements: Universal Time (UT), whose time scale is based on the rotation of the Earth, and International Atomic Time, whose time scale is based on the definition of the second, the measurement being carried out using atomic clocks.
Based on the rotation of the Earth, the first is variable, while the second is stable. For practical reasons and to avoid too much confusion, the article will mainly use the term GMT as a reference.
It may seem complicated to have such precise definitions, but you should know that a second or a meter are units of measurement that first had to be defined as valid references for everyone.
The fact that we can check the time with a simple glance at our watches or at clocks and smartphones is only a consequence of a long development and consultation between scientists. We are only applying almost unknowingly in our daily lives measures that have only recently been established.
What is a GMT function in a watch?
In this photo, the watch displays 10:02 in Paris and with the GMT hand in red we read 8:02 (UTC time). We read 8:02 with the GMT hand using the bezel which indicates the hours over 24 hours and with the minute hand.
The GMT function is a function that allows you to manage multiple time zones on the dial of the same watch . While a three-hand only shows your home time adjusted as needed to accommodate the time in another country, a GMT has:
- A second hand also called the second hand
- A minute hand
- An hour hand (so far, nothing unusual, on a 12-hour scale on the dial like on a traditional watch)
- A window for the date
And there appears another needle:
- A GMT hand : this is another hour hand – different in colour and shape from the other hands – indicating the time on a 24-hour scale this time.
And finally:
- A bidirectional bezel with its 24-hour scale
At the end of the article, for information purposes, a procedure will be available to set a GMT watch. Now, let's get to the heart of the matter: the review of the watch in question.
The Tudor Black Bay GMT
Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Tudor and Rolex, had the idea of making a watch that was both affordable and high quality. He named it Tudor. Why Tudor? It is a name with Welsh origins easily pronounceable in most languages and with an obvious reference to a dynasty across the Channel whose emblems were to represent beauty (the rose) and strength (the shield). The rose and the shield are thus the symbols of the Tudor brand, which can be found on the dial and on the crown.
The rose on the crown of the watch was the emblem of the Tudor dynasty that came to power following the so-called War of the Roses. It actually symbolises the end of this conflict by uniting the emblems of the houses of Lancaster and York.
But what interests us about this watch is its strength and that of the Black Bay collection is based on its solidity and reliability.
A solid watch
The solidity of a watch is measured by its technical characteristics. Tudor has already been selected in the past by elite units, such as the French commandos and in particular the Hubert commando, which is one of the most prestigious.
Building on this heritage, Tudor has returned to its roots with its Black Bay collection. The steel used is 316L, which is the steel with which the majority of current watches are made. This is an alloy that is an excellent compromise with good resistance to scratches and corrosion.
The solidity of the watch is also reflected in its 200-meter water resistance , an essential detail for anyone wishing to dive. It should be remembered that the water resistance of a watch is measured by the pressure exerted by the water in the depths. A water resistance of 200 meters corresponds to a static pressure of 20 bars or ATM. , in other words, a diver's watch is resistant due to its characteristics which make it a watch also suitable for other types of environment such as the desert or equatorial environments. The absence of a crown protector does not detract from the overall solidity of the watch, the crown having a fairly large diameter (useful for those with large fingers) and screwed (which is normal for a watch ensuring perfect water resistance). The domed sapphire crystal obviously contributes to the solidity of the whole.
The domed sapphire crystal is clearly visible. This is not an aesthetic detail, as resistance to the pressure exerted by water requires a thicker glass.
Note the absence of the "cyclops" , which is not a bad thing for me, having never really appreciated this particularity that we find on other watches.
A readable watch
Legibility is a fundamental aspect for a watch that has a direct link with diving models. Thus, the so-called "Snowflakes" hands are an important visual feature at Tudor but, before becoming part of the brand's visual identity, these hands are above all very legible.
Legibility is also found on the dial, whose indexes are perfectly distinct. The insertion of the date in place of the 3 o'clock index is judicious because many brands insert this window in a much less aesthetic way. The use of SuperLuminova obviously allows you to read the time in the darkness of the depths… or simply during the night.
Finally, the "Pepsi" bezel, with its 24-hour scale, is not only aesthetic because it is mainly there to easily distinguish the hours of the day and night. You will also see its full usefulness in the operating mode at the end of the article. If we compare this bezel to that of other more expensive watches, the bezel of the Black Bay GMT does not have this "flashy" aspect, the burgundy and blue of the bezel insert tend towards the matte, which links it to a practical and sober use.
A new movement
The Tudor MT5652 movement has a 70-hour power reserve.
The MT5652 movement is a manufacture movement designed by Tudor. While it takes up the overall architecture of existing MT movements , it integrates the GMT function. Tudor manufacture movements have adopted the silicon balance spring whose non-magnetic properties prevent the risk of magnetizing the watch with a smartphone or a security gate, etc.
My opinion on Tudor calibers is simple: the brand is part of a group whose leitmotif is the search for quality and reliability. The calibers are thus all designed with this in mind and not for purely aesthetic reasons.
They have been rigorously tested before being adopted. Reliability tests demonstrate that the revision frequencies are spaced many years apart with an estimated eight years for MT movements .
Quality bracelets
To go on a journey, you need a quality watch, but the straps must be just as good. . There are few brands that have satisfactory bracelets, which leads me to change the original ones. But Tudor is one of the exceptions. There are three types of bracelets and they are all qualitative. As part of this review, I tested the steel bracelet and the fabric bracelet.
The steel bracelet of the Tudor GMT is a riveted bracelet, another nod to the old bracelets but the current links are made of solid steel.
If we notice the rivets of the bracelet, the discerning eye will also notice the gray flannel fabric of a well-known piece at BonneGueule 😉
The buckle system is reliable, solid and, once adjusted, the steel bracelet is very comfortable, although a little heavy due to the use of solid steel links. Many steel bracelets are polished these days.
Polishing gives a flashy look to the watch, but it quickly becomes exposed to daily wear, with micro-scratches caused by wear. The satin-finished steel of the Tudor bracelet is a good compromise between polished steel and steel with a pronounced brushing.
Besides the buckle system, equipped with a safety, you will notice the solid back of the Oyster case.
For this article, I chose the fabric bracelet which is also very high quality and woven in France.
As you can see, this is not a common nylon Nato bought for a few euros…
This bracelet system allows the pumps to be inserted inside the fabric strap itself. This system has two advantages: if for some reason a pump were to give way, there is another one that will prevent you from losing the watch, unlike a traditional two-part leather strap where the loss of a pump results in the loss of the watch.
The fabric strap pattern is a reference to military bracelets of the past and it is perfectly consistent with the adventurer spirit. As I wrote in a previous article, Tudor uses a French manufacturer near Saint-Etienne to weave what are probably the best textile bracelets of the moment.
An “accessible” watch
Some watches have become particularly expensive, so much so that many owners overprotect them: they hardly see the equatorial forests, the desert or even the beaches, even though they are made not to remain locked inside a safe.
Accessibility does not mean a discovery budget, Tudor watches have a price but, given their characteristics, this is an offer available at a much lower price than that offered elsewhere with equal characteristics.
The report is even very much in favor of Tudor in certain areas such as after-sales service or the manufacture movement. Overall, this is one of the best style/quality/price ratios I know in the sector. At 3,350 euros with the leather or fabric strap and 3,650 euros with the steel strap, honestly, I don't see anything better in this price range.
Beyond a simple detailed review of an excellent watch, it is important to wear it with style. This is the specificity of this article: I do not want to integrate watches into existing looks but to do the opposite and start from watches to build a coherent look .
Towards a new adventurer
During my travels, I have always found that it is very easy to recognize a tourist by the clothing that clashes as surely as a carnival costume worn at the office and I am hardly exaggerating. When it comes to traveling, you certainly have to think practical.
But practicality should not be synonymous with adopting a look that pushes the limits of ugliness under the argument of comfort. Benoît spoke to you about it in a recent topic for the holidays and another topic to not look like a tourist .
If I choose a watch designed for travel, why not wear an outfit that is appropriate for travel? I continually see people who invest thousands of dollars in beautiful watches but then wear them with an outfit that would scare away a hungry Tyrannosaurus Rex.
Similarly, I don't understand why investing a significant portion of a student or even executive budget in a nice outfit only to have it ruined by a cheap or tacky watch. That's why I want to start with an interesting watch and then build a coherent look.
Given carte blanche to create these looks , I didn't hesitate to stray a little from the world of suits and cuffed shirts to select different pieces from two brands that I really like and that you know well.
Ready for departure
Officer collar shirt by Editions MR, green bomber jacket by Editions MR, vintage Bleu de Chauffe backpack (Scout Waxy model) and of course the Tudor Black Bay GMT worn on its fabric strap made in France.
While the bomber jacket is now integrated into a wide variety of different styles, I wanted to give a nod to its military origins and in particular to the famous MA-1 but by adopting a very beautiful olive green.
These particular shades of color are mainly found in more high-end brands that choose shades that are not easily found elsewhere. Editions MR offers a very beautiful bomber jacket, but also well cut and with a water-repellent technical material. .
While we find the traditional pocket on the arm, this model is distinguished by shoulder pads that set it apart from the usual bomber models. The lightness of this bomber distinguishes it from others, usually thicker and padded with polyester.
It is an ideal windbreaker and allows the room to be used in a wider variety of environments. On the day of the shoot, it did not prove to be stifling despite high summer temperatures.
Today's officer collar shirt has almost no connection with its military past, now worn more in a formal and urban context. I have always had a weakness for these beautiful shirts with collars that stand out from the ordinary... it is precisely for this reason that I chose to "divert" it from its current use to integrate it into a look that would recall both its origins and the context in which I wish to integrate it: travel.
Among the existing models, I preferred a shirt in beige Italian cotton poplin, the shade of which is more suitable for travel than the eternal white shirt, which turns out to be too dirty for my taste.
Editions MR officer collar shirt, Editions MR green bomber jacket, old vintage Levi's belt, BonneGueule Coyote stretch chinos.
Chinos are obviously THE piece to adopt in the context of travel. If you want to reinforce the utilitarian aspect, there are cargo pants but – and this is a personal opinion – I much prefer chinos which are the most versatile pants I know. Khaki is a perfect shade: less dirty and more rugged.
You have to aim for what is practical and remain able to adapt to the context encountered: from the airport to the city then to the countryside, the forest and the old stones of your favorite archaeological site, it is difficult to find fault with this good old traveling companion that is the chino. The military were not mistaken in keeping it after the war when returning to civilian life.
It is necessary to have in mind both durability and comfort , this is an even more important imperative for the traveler because, sometimes, it will not be a question of changing as frequently as in the city. This 280g/m2 cotton twill adapts to all seasons with a French fabric made by Velcorex, ideal in hot weather lose comfort - with 30 degrees on the day of the shooting, we can testify that it fulfills its function with ease.
The Tudor Black Bay GMT and its fabric strap appreciate this versatility and go very well with the color of the chinos and the bomber jacket. The integration of the different pieces is harmonious, the watch, its GMT function and its strap bringing small touches of color that do not clash with the rest of the outfit.
Do as here, even with a slight leg injury, overthinking will not pass!
The rebel polo shirt
Edition MR khaki terry polo shirt, BonneGueule Coyote Stretch Chino, Buttero/BonneGueule collab sneakers from several years of marauding, Randolph Engineering Aviator sunglasses, vintage Bleu de Chauffe backpack and vintage Monsieur London felt hat and the Black Bay GMT… jet lag is no longer an option!
The polo shirt is an essential piece for me, even if it means being a bit rebellious compared to the traditional preference given to the t-shirt at BonneGueule. I hardly wear any t-shirts because it lacks this collar which gives a much more elegant look to the polo shirt, while allowing you not to suffocate during the summer thanks to this slight opening on the chest. A bit like unbuttoning two buttons of a shirt during hot summer nights.
It's hard not to pay tribute to the texture and the very particular aspect of this polo shirt which clearly sets it apart from the competition. You will notice the absence of a logo which makes it refined and prevents you from turning into a free advertising panel.
For the purposes of this article, I would not recommend wearing a polo shirt like the ones you can find at Gant or Lacoste. On the other hand, I discovered a real little gem at Editions MR… A polo shirt made of a special material: terrycloth, which is certainly a must-have this summer.
During periods of high heat, this is where we appreciate a good fabric strap. A leather strap is not at all appropriate for this occasion… and the leather will thank you because perspiration accelerates its wear.
The polo/chino/linen sneakers/watch worn on a fabric strap combo is for me a sure bet for the summer. In terms of comfort, there is nothing to complain about, it is ideal. We are very far from the tourist look in too wide shorts/shirt or a bad t-shirt/socks + sandals/plastic watch.
And if you want to change the color, this polo also comes in a beautiful navy blue that catches the light well. In this photo, you can see more of its terry texture.
The mercenary on reconnaissance
BonneGueule ecru Albiate Japan shirt, BonneGueule Stretch Olive chinos, vintage Bleu de Paname scarf, vintage Persol sun clip, Expendables pose as a bonus.
Often, when you like a piece for its comfort and its look, a common male reflex is to buy several copies. And yet, it is in my opinion more interesting to vary the materials and shades in the clothes: going from khaki to sand yellow via camel or tobacco and without forgetting ecru allows you to keep a certain look while having the possibility of twisting it endlessly.
The BonneGueule ecru shirt in Japanese cotton was a real favorite in this regard. If the workwear spirit was the basis of this piece, I do not hesitate to adapt it to a resolutely more adventurous look.
A shirt, a scarf, chinos… it’s hard to make a simpler look, and yet, with a few well-chosen accessories, you can make all the difference.
Even if the camera is slung over your shoulder, would you go so far as to say that it really looks like a tourist?
Another common reflex is to take clothes that are too large to give yourself the illusion of greater comfort. But comfort, which is essential for a traveler, comes more from clothes that are adapted to your body shape.
The same logic applies to watches: wearing a plastic watch can potentially ruin a look when there are other solutions. Opting for a hypoallergenic fabric strap with a watch that tells the time is a prerequisite, of course, but it should also be a choice in terms of both functionality and style. This seems to me to be essential to perfecting a look.
And sometimes, when sneakers are no longer enough, you should not hesitate to take a pair of boots with commando skates... just to stay well attached.
We readjust our laces and set off on our adventure again!
The end of one journey and the beginning of another
A true explorer, Mike Horn, said that “Traveling is not just about climbing peaks or exploring, it’s about sharing.” What I want to share with you is that watches are not just about telling time.
Some have useful features, some have stories to tell, and some will one day allow you to tell your own adventures.
The watch is not the only jewel of the man because it is not a jewel. It is a beautiful functional object that carries a story and this story is that of the model, that of the person who gave it to you, the one to whom you wish to give it and… it is first of all your own story.
Tudor Black Bay GMT – Technical specifications
- 41 mm diameter
- Polished and satin steel case
- Bi-directional rotating bezel
- Screw-down crown
- Domed sapphire crystal
- GMT function
- Tudor MT5652 self-winding mechanical movement
- 70 hours power reserve
- Waterproof 200 meters
- Price: 3,350 euros with the fabric strap or the leather strap, 3,650 euros with the steel strap
Bonus: Your GMT watch can save you
A compass that doesn't lose its bearings
And if by chance you get lost on the way, know that a GMT watch can be more useful than you imagined because it can serve as a compass.
Since our days are 24 hours long (and not 12 hours as displayed on traditional three-hand watches), the GMT hand moves like the sun's course, which also moves over 24 hours. To help you find north:
- Place the watch on a flat surface
- Position the watch with the GMT hand pointing towards the sun
- Look at the bidirectional bezel which displays the time over 24 hours: looking at the indication displaying 12 hours on the bezel, it is south, looking at the indication displaying 24 hours (symbolized on the Tudor by an inverted triangle), it is north
The proof in pictures:
The method is valid for the northern hemisphere, in the southern hemisphere, you simply have to reverse it.
Thanks to your watch, you can orient yourself, find the helicopter, reach your base camp and not miss the latest videos from the BonneGueule Channel ☺
And for those who need a tutorial, I advise you to follow this video from a kind youtuber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PGUq9GbBgY
Questions/Answers and Operating Instructions for Setting a GMT Watch
What is this extra needle?
This is the GMT hand, it is normally set to the Greenwich meridian, the universal reference for international time.
But I don't care about Greenwich Mean Time!
This is the world reference, more precisely that of the Greenwich Observatory, which was historically adopted: it is GMT 0. The different time zones are referenced from this one. The time zone that includes Paris is GMT+1 (if it is 9am, GMT time, it is 10am in Paris), that of Japan, which you love so much to bring your cotton for your shirts, is GMT+9.
What is the rotating bezel on the watch for?
This is a bezel with a 24-hour scale. So, there is no need to adjust the hands of your watch in each country you travel to. By rotating the bezel, you set it to the appropriate time zone.
I don't understand anything!
When you arrive in Japan to pick up your Japanese cotton, you just have to turn your bezel to GMT+9, that is to say, you will turn the bezel counterclockwise, 18 notches to the left and you will be on Japanese time. If you leave for Los Angeles, it is GMT-8: this time you will turn the bezel to the right 16 notches and you will be on Los Angeles time.
Why 18 or 16 notches and not 9 and 8?
Because the notches represent half an hour and not an hour: there are some countries that are at GMT+3½ like Iran or at GMT+5½ like India.
Why is the bezel insert two-tone?
The red half corresponds to the hours of the day, the blue half corresponds to the hours of the night. Since you won't necessarily want to call your boss at 4am instead of 4pm, a simple glance at the bezel will save you a few minor worries...
Why is the bezel bidirectional while on divers the bezel is unidirectional?
The bezel is unidirectional on a diver's watch to prevent divers from inadvertently changing their reference which marks the start of their dive.
For GMT, it's about convenience: it's easier to set the bezel to GMT+X or GMT-X.
How do I set my GMT compared to a traditional watch?
Here is the procedure I recommend:
- Unscrew the crown. If the watch has stopped, I would then advise turning the crown a few times in the opposite direction in order to “recharge” the watch before proceeding with the adjustment itself.
- Pull the crown out as far as it will go. Without forcing it either: this means putting the crown in position 2 to be precise.
- Set the GMT hand first on UTC time, simply turn the crown to set the GMT hand to universal time using the 24-hour scale on the bezel. When doing so, you will notice that all the hands move at the same time, this is normal, the important thing is that the GMT hand is set to universal time and the minute hand is correctly set, this time relative to the normal 12-hour scale on the dial
- Position the crown in level 1 position (the crown is no longer pulled out to the maximum as in position 2, the crown is pushed slightly towards the case)
- Adjust the hour hand: you will see that the normal hour hand will "jump" hour by hour (Jump Hour Function), everything is normal, this is to adjust the hour hand without changing the setting of the previous step. Note that, by doing so, the date is adjusted in this way
- Once everything is set, simply screw the crown back in to ensure the watch is water-resistant.
Now, when traveling, simply turn the bezel to set it to the appropriate time zone without having to change the time on the watch: the GMT hand will give the time of the country you are traveling to and you will keep the time at home with the other hands.
And since a video is more explicit, I recommend watching this one which explains (in English) how to set your GMT:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGlyg7RIsQc
Now, have a good trip!
