Tudor Black Bay GMT, the traveler’s dream watch

According to a Tibetan proverb, “ travel is a return to the essential” . What is essential? For a passenger, the main thing is to go from point A to point B. No more, no less. For a traveler, it is not necessarily the point of departure that matters, but it is often the journey itself which constitutes the purpose.

And beyond the journey, I think that the real motivation consists of an irrepressible need for freedom. A traveler is, above all else, a free man. Free to leave and free to return.

Through these few lines, I wish to take you from the state of passenger to that of traveler. And perhaps even a little to that of a modern freedom-loving adventurer.

Tourists, travelers and backpackers

Many have visited countries around the world, few have really traveled. I was lucky to have a father who really traveled across the globe for his work: force 11 storms , hellish temperatures in the desert with an average of 60° C with even a peak of 65° C in the sun , freezing temperatures in the Arctic with -30°C during the day and -40°C at night, not to mention the joys of the equatorial climate with humidity of over 90% . Countries at risk and even countries in a state of war… he has experienced almost everything.

No, he was neither an archaeologist nor an expert in mummies but we are not far away.☺

Far from the small comforts of urban centers, he was not an ordinary traveler, he was an authentic adventurer. It goes without saying that an adventurer is more of an adventurer than a tourist, but above all he is someone who prepares and adapts to almost everything.

Even when adapting and preparing, he is systematically confronted with the unexpected. Our current civilized world has a horror of the unexpected. Everything is categorized, everything is calibrated.

The adventurer doesn't really have time to take care of his style. This also does not mean that when he returns to civilization, he will not try to wear a nice shirt and a nice suit.

I lived with the story and photos of his travels. Recently, I asked him: what watches did he wear with his colleagues during his missions? He replied that in his time, war journalists, raw materials prospectors and soldiers wore steel watches designed to be strong, waterproof and readable , often diving watches.

We don't remember it enough, but the French commandos wore Tudor Submariners for example, and many adventurers wore Rolexes. Long before they became luxury items, they were above all precise and reliable watches, durable and which told you the time, whether you were on the open sea, in the desert or in an equatorial forest.

It's no longer the 60s but I asked myself the question: what watch would I wear if I had to travel the world again?

Means of transportation have evolved since then, but the idea is there.

Specifications

Diving watches are obviously perfect candidates and you have had the opportunity to discover our selection of diving watches for the summer .

As such, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a perfect balance with a contained diameter of 39 mm, water resistance of 200 meters and excellent technical characteristics.

But not all the watches in the selection were intended for traveling in complete peace of mind. Some have prices that put them out of reach of many budgets, like the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue or the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle.

To “adventure”, you need a watch with:

• Excellent waterproofing: 150 meters or even 200 meters
• Good visibility: the hands and indexes must be perfectly readable and luminescent
• A solid case: in 316L steel or titanium.
• A less precious look that makes you want to travel without trying to attract too much attention
• A hypoallergenic and rot-proof bracelet , which excludes leather which, even treated, hardly appreciates the joys of water

Certainly, it is a question of finding a watch with the aforementioned characteristics - which excludes plastic/polymer watches - BUT also with an aesthetic that recalls the old watches of the 60s and part of the 70s : those that could have worn our parents but updated with today's standards and equipped with a very useful function for those who travel the world: the GMT function.

The history of GMT

The measurement of time has always been of crucial importance in the history of civilizations. In the past and until the 19th century, humans across the planet experienced several hundred different local times.

When the vast majority of populations lived near their place of birth, this posed little problem, with the exception of a few merchants and travelers who had to systematically adjust their watches as they moved.

At the time when England was able to establish its domination on the lines of international trade, the increase in the possibilities of traveling by boat and rail – we were then in the midst of the Industrial Revolution – led to the need to establish a universal reference of time. The Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) was adopted first by merchant seamen and then by British railway companies.

In the mid-19th century, GMT became the official time in the United Kingdom. Finally, the British and French agreed in 1884 to adopt the Greenwich meridian as the international reference meridian. and also the time zone system which divides the world into 24 zones.

The map of the 24 time zones of the world in all its splendor. (source: actualitix)

What is a GMT function in a watch?

In this photo, the watch displays 10:02 a.m. in Paris and with the GMT hand in red we read 8:02 a.m. (UTC time). We read 8:02 with the GMT hand using the bezel which indicates the hours over 24 hours and with the minute hand.

The GMT function is a function that allows you to manage several time zones on the dial of the same watch . While a three needle only indicates your home time adjusted if necessary to adapt to the time of another country, a GMT has:

• A seconds hand also called the second hand
• A minute hand
• An hour hand (so far, nothing abnormal, on a 12 hour scale on the dial like on a traditional watch)
• A window for the date

And there appears another needle:

• A GMT hand : this is another hour hand – distinct in color and shape compared to the other hands – indicating the time on a 24-hour scale this time

And finally :

• A bidirectional bezel with its 24-hour scale

At the end of the article, for information purposes only, a procedure will be available for setting a GMT watch. Now, let's get to the heart of the matter: the review of the watch in question.

The Tudor Black Bay GMT

Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Tudor and Rolex, conceived the idea of ​​making a watch that was both accessible and high quality. He named it Tudor. Why Tudor? It is a name with Welsh origins easily pronounceable in the majority of languages ​​and with an obvious reference to a dynasty across the Channel whose emblems were to represent beauty (the rose) and strength (the shield). The rose and the shield are the symbols of the Tudor brand, which can be found on the dial and on the crown.

The rose on the crown of the watch was the emblem of the Tudor dynasty which came to power following the so-called War of the Roses. It actually symbolizes the end of this conflict by bringing together the emblems of the Lancastrian and York houses.

But what interests us about this watch is its strength and that of the Black Bay collection is based on its solidity and reliability.

A solid watch

The solidity of a watch is measured by its technical characteristics. Tudor has already been selected in the past by elite units, such as the French commandos and in particular the Hubert commando which is one of the most prestigious.

Building on this heritage, Tudor returned to its roots through its Black Bay collection. The steel used is 316L which is the steel with which the majority of current watches are made. This is an alloy that is an excellent compromise with good resistance to scratches and corrosion.

The solidity of the watch is also reflected in its water resistance of 200 meters , an essential detail for anyone wishing to dive. It should be remembered that the water resistance of a watch is measured by the pressure exerted by the water in the depths. A waterproof rating of 200 meters corresponds to a static pressure of 20 bars or ATM , in other words, a diver is resistant due to its characteristics which make it a watch also suitable for other types of environment such as the desert or equatorial environments. The absence of a crown guard does not detract in any way from the overall impression of solidity of the watch, the crown having a fairly large diameter (useful for those with large fingers) and screwed down (which is normal for a watch ensuring perfect water resistance). The curved sapphire crystal obviously contributes to the solidity of the whole.

We clearly notice the curved sapphire crystal. This is not an aesthetic detail, resistance to the pressure exerted by water requires thicker glass.

Note the absence of the “cyclops” , which is not a bad thing for me, having never really appreciated this particularity that we find on other watches.

A readable watch

Readability is a fundamental aspect for a watch that has a direct link with diving models. Thus, the so-called “Snowflakes” hands are an important visual characteristic at Tudor but, before becoming part of the brand's visual identity, these hands are above all very readable.

Readability is also found on the dial, the indexes of which are perfectly distinct. Inserting the date in place of the 3 o'clock index is wise because many brands insert this window in a much less aesthetic way. The use of SuperLuminova obviously makes it possible to read the time in the darkness of the depths… or quite simply during the night.

Finally, the “Pepsi” bezel, with its 24-hour scale, is not only aesthetic because it is mainly there to easily distinguish the hours of day and night. You will also see its usefulness in the operating mode at the end of the article. If we compare this bezel with that of other more expensive watches, the bezel of the Black Bay GMT does not have this “flashy” appearance, the burgundy and blue of the bezel insert tends towards matte, which links it to practical and sober use.

A new movement

The Tudor MT5652 movement has a power reserve of 70 hours.

The MT5652 movement is an in-house movement designed by Tudor. If it takes up the overall architecture of existing MT movements , it integrates the GMT function. Tudor manufacture movements adopted the silicon balance spring whose non-magnetic properties protect against the risks of magnetizing the watch with a smartphone or a security gate, etc.

My opinion on Tudor calibers is simple: the brand is part of a group whose leitmotif is the search for quality and reliability. The calibers are therefore all designed with this in mind and not for purely aesthetic reasons.

They were tested rigorously before being adopted. Reliability tests demonstrate that the overhaul frequencies are spaced many years apart with an estimate of eight years for MT movements. .

Quality bracelets

To travel, you need a quality watch, but the bracelets need to be just as good. . There are few brands that have satisfactory bracelets, which leads me to change the original ones. But Tudor is one of the exceptions. There are three types of bracelets and they are all qualitative. As part of this review, I tested the steel bracelet and the fabric bracelet.

The steel bracelet of the Tudor GMT is a riveted bracelet, another nod to the old bracelets but the current links are in solid steel.

If we notice the rivets of the bracelet, discerning eyes will also notice the gray flannel fabric of a well-known piece from BonneGueule 😉

The buckle system is reliable, solid and, once adjusted, the steel bracelet is very comfortable, although a little heavy due to the use of solid steel links. Many steel bracelets are polished these days.

Polishing gives a flashy appearance to the watch, but it is quickly confronted with everyday life, made up of micro-scratches linked to wear. The satin-finished steel of the Tudor bracelet is a good compromise between polished steel and pronounced brushed steel.

In addition to the buckle system, equipped with security, you will notice the solid bottom of the Oyster case.

For this article, I chose the fabric bracelet which is also very high quality and woven in France.

As you can see, this is not a common nylon Nato bought for a few euros…

This bracelet system allows you to insert the pumps inside the fabric bracelet itself. This system has two advantages: if for of the watch.

The pattern of the fabric bracelet is a reference to military bracelets of the past and is perfectly consistent with the adventurer spirit. As I wrote in a previous article, Tudor uses a French factory near Saint-Etienne to weave certainly the best textile bracelets of the moment.

An “accessible” watch

Some watches have become particularly expensive, to the point that many owners overprotect them: they hardly see the equatorial forests, the desert or even the beaches even though they are designed not to remain locked inside a trunk .

Accessibility is not synonymous with a discovery budget, Tudor watches have a price but, given their characteristics, it is an offer available at a much lower price than that offered elsewhere with equal characteristics.

The report is even very much in favor of Tudor in certain areas such as after-sales service or the manufacturing movement. Overall, this is one of the best style/quality/price ratios I've seen in the industry. At 3,350 euros with the leather or fabric strap and 3,650 euros with the steel bracelet, honestly, I can't see anything better in this price range.

Beyond just a detailed review of an excellent watch, it should be worn with style. This is the specificity of this article: I do not want to integrate the watches into existing looks but to go the opposite way and start from the watches to build a coherent look .

Towards a new adventurer

During my travels, I have always noticed that it is very easy to recognize a tourist by the clothing which stands out as surely as a carnival costume worn to the office and I am hardly exaggerating. When the time comes to travel, you certainly have to think practical.

But practicality should not be synonymous with adopting a look that pushes the limits of ugliness under the argument of comfort. Benoît spoke to you about it during a recent topic for vacations and another topic about not looking like a tourist .

If I choose a watch designed for travel, why not wear travel-appropriate clothing? I continually see people who invest thousands of euros in beautiful watches but who, at the same time, wear them with an outfit that would scare away a hungry Tyrannosaurus Rex.

Likewise, I don't understand why invest a significant part of a student or even executive budget in a beautiful outfit if it is only to be ruined by a cheap or tasteless watch. That's why I want to start with an interesting watch and then develop a cohesive look.

Having received carte blanche to develop these looks , I did not hesitate to move away a little from the world of suits and shirts with French cuffs to select different pieces from two brands that I really appreciate and that you know well .

Ready to go

Editions MR officer collar shirt, Editions MR green bomber jacket, vintage Bleu de Chauffe backpack (Scout Waxy model) and of course the Tudor Black Bay GMT worn on its fabric strap made in France.

If the bomber is now integrated into a very wide variety of different styles, I wanted to give a nod to its military origins and in particular to the famous MA-1 but by adopting a very beautiful olive green.

These particular shades of color are mainly found among more high-end brands which choose shades that are not easily found elsewhere. Editions MR offers a very beautiful bomber jacket, of course, but also well cut and with a water-repellent technical material. .

If we find the traditional pocket on the arm, this model is distinguished by shoulder pads which deviate it a little from the usual bomber models. The lightness of this bomber distinguishes it from others, usually thicker and padded with polyester.

It is an ideal windbreaker and allows the piece to be used in a wider variety of environments. On the day of the shoot, it didn't feel stifling despite the high summer temperatures.

Today's officer collar shirt has virtually no connection with its military past, now worn more in a dressy, urban context. I have always had a weakness for these beautiful collared shirts that stand out from the ordinary... it is precisely for this reason that I chose to "divert" it from its current use to integrate it into a look that would recall and its origins and the context in which I wish to integrate it: travel.

Among the existing models, I preferred a beige Italian cotton poplin shirt whose shade is more suitable for traveling than the eternal white shirt which turns out to be too dirty for my taste.

Editions MR officer collar shirt, green Editions MR bomber jacket, old vintage Levi's belt, Coyote BonneGueule stretch chinos.

Chinos are obviously THE piece to adopt when traveling. If you want to reinforce the utilitarian aspect, there are cargo-type pants but – and this is a personal opinion – I much prefer chinos which are the most versatile pants I know. Khaki is a perfect shade: less messy and more adventurous.

You must aim for what is practical and remain able to adapt to the context encountered: from the airport to the city then to the countryside, the forest and the old stones of your favorite archaeological site, it is difficult to take failing this good old traveling companion that is chinos. The soldiers were not mistaken in keeping it after the war when they returned to civilian life.

It is necessary to keep in mind both durability and comfort , this is an even more important imperative for the traveler because, sometimes, it will not be a question of changing as frequently as in the city. This 280g/m2 cotton twill is suitable for all seasons with a French fabric made by Velcorex, ideal for hot weather without comfort - with 30 degrees on the day of the shoot, we can testify that it fulfills its function with ease .

The Tudor Black Bay GMT and its fabric strap appreciate this versatility and go very well with the color of the chinos and the bomber jacket. The integration of the different pieces is harmonious, the watch, its GMT function and its bracelet providing small touches of color that do not clash with the rest of the outfit.

Do as here, even with a slight leg injury, overthinking will not go away!

The rebel polo shirt

MR Edition khaki terry polo shirt, Coyote BonneGueule Stretch Chino, Buttero/BonneGueule collab sneakers from several years of marauding, Aviator sunglasses from Randolph Engineering, vintage Bleu de Chauffe backpack and vintage Monsieur London felt hat and the Black Bay GMT …jet lag is no longer possible!

The polo shirt is an essential piece in my eyes, even if it means being a little rebellious compared to the traditional preference given at BonneGueule to the t-shirt. I hardly wear any t-shirts because it is notably missing this collar which gives a much more elegant appearance to the polo shirt, while allowing you not to suffocate during the summer thanks to this slight opening on the chest. A bit like unbuttoning two buttons on a shirt on a hot summer night.

It's hard not to pay tribute to the texture and very particular appearance of this polo shirt which clearly sets it apart from the competition. You will notice the absence of a logo which makes it clean and prevents you from turning into a free advertising billboard.

In the context of this article, I would not advise wearing a polo shirt like you can find at Gant or Lacoste. On the other hand, I discovered a real little nugget at Editions MR... A polo shirt made from a special material: sponge, which is certainly a must for this summer.

During periods of high heat, this is when we appreciate a good fabric bracelet. A leather bracelet is not at all appropriate for this occasion... and the leather will thank you because perspiration accelerates its wear.

The polo/chino/linen sneakers/watch combo worn on a fabric bracelet are a sure summer bet for me. In terms of comfort, there is nothing to complain about, it is ideal. We are very far from the tourist look in too baggy shorts/shirt or a bad t-shirt/socks + sandals/plastic watch.

And if you want to change color, this polo shirt also comes in a beautiful navy blue that takes the light well. In this photo you can notice its terry texture more.

The mercenary scouting

BonneGueule ecru Albiate Japan shirt, BonneGueule Stretch Olive chinos, vintage Bleu de Paname scarf, vintage Persol sun clip, bonus Expendables posture.

Often, when we love a piece for its comfort and its look, a common male reflex is to buy several copies. And yet, in my opinion, it is more interesting to vary the materials and colors in clothes: going from khaki to sandy yellow, camel or tobacco and without forgetting ecru allows you to maintain a certain look while having the possibility of twisting it infinitely.

The ecru BonneGueule shirt in Japanese cotton was a real favorite in this regard. If the workwear spirit was the basis of this piece, I don't hesitate to adapt it to a decidedly more adventurous look.

A shirt, a scarf, a chino... it's hard to get a simpler look and yet, with a few well-chosen accessories, you can make all the difference.

Even if the camera is slung over your shoulder, would you go so far as to say that it really looks touristy?

Another common reflex is to wear clothes that are too baggy to give yourself the illusion of greater comfort. But comfort, essential for a traveler, comes more from clothing adapted to your body type.

The logic is the same with watches: wearing a plastic watch can potentially ruin a look when there are other solutions. Opting for a hypoallergenic fabric strap with a watch that tells the time is certainly a prerequisite, but it must also be the result of a choice in terms of both functionality and style. This seems to me to be essential to perfecting a look.

And sometimes, when sneakers are no longer enough, you shouldn't hesitate to take a pair of boots with commando skates... just to stay on track.

We readjust our laces and set off on our adventure!

The end of one journey and the beginning of another

A true explorer, Mike Horn, said that “Travel is not just about climbing peaks or exploring, it is above all about sharing”. What I want to share with you is that watches are not just for telling time.

Some have useful features and some have stories to tell and still others will allow you to one day tell your own adventures.

The watch is not the only jewel of man because it is not a jewel. It is a beautiful functional object which carries a story and this story is that of the model, that of the person who transmitted it to you, the one to whom you wish to transmit it and… it is first of all your own story .

Bonus: your GMT watch can save you

A compass that does not lose north

And if by chance you get lost on the way, know that a GMT watch can be more useful to you than you imagined because it can serve as a compass.

Our days being 24 hours (and not 12 hours as displayed on traditional three-hand watches), the GMT hand evolves like the course of the sun which also evolves over 24 hours. To help you find north:

• Place the watch on a flat surface
• Position the watch with the GMT hand pointing towards the sun
• Look on the bidirectional bezel which displays the 24-hour time: looking at the indication displaying 12 hours on the bezel, it is south, looking at the indication displaying 24 hours (symbolized on the Tudor by an inverted triangle), it is is the north

The proof in pictures:

The method is valid for the northern hemisphere, in the southern hemisphere, you simply have to reverse it.

Thanks to your watch, you can find your way, find the helicopter, reach your base camp and not miss the latest videos from the BonneGueule Channel ☺

And for those who need a tutorial, I advise you to follow this video from a kind YouTuber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PGUq9GbBgY

Questions/answers and procedure for setting a GMT watch

What is this extra needle?

This is the GMT hand, it is normally set to the Greenwich meridian, the universal reference for international time.

But Greenwich Mean Time doesn't interest me!

This is the world reference, more precisely that of the Greenwich Observatory, which was adopted historically: it is GMT 0. The different time zones are referenced from it. The time zone that includes Paris is GMT+1 (if it is 9 a.m. GMT time, it is 10 a.m. in Paris), that of Japan, which you love so much to bring in your cotton for your shirts, is is GMT+9.

What is the rotating bezel for on the watch?

This is a bezel with a 24 hour scale. So there's no need to adjust your watch hands in every country you travel to. By rotating the bezel you set it to the appropriate time zone.

I do not understand !

When you arrive in Japan to pick up your Japanese cotton, simply turn your bezel to GMT+9, that is to say you will turn the bezel counterclockwise, 18 notches to the left and you will be on Japan time. If you are going to Los Angeles, it is GMT-8: this time you will turn the bezel to the right 16 notches and you will be on Los Angeles time.

Why 18 or 16 notches and not 9 and 8?

Because the notches represent half an hour and not an hour: there are a few countries which are at GMT+3½ like Iran or at GMT+5½ like India.

Why is the bezel insert two-tone?

The red half corresponds to daylight hours, the blue half corresponds to nighttime hours. As you won't necessarily want to call your boss at 4 a.m. instead of 4 p.m., a simple glance at the telescope will save you some minor worries...

Why is the bezel bidirectional while on divers the bezel is unidirectional?

The bezel is unidirectional on a diver to prevent divers from inadvertently changing their reference which marks the start of their dive.

For GMT, it's about ease: it's simpler to be able to adjust the bezel to GMT+X or GMT-X.

How do I set my GMT compared to a traditional watch?

Here is the procedure I recommend:

• Unscrew the crown. If the watch is stopped, I would then advise turning the crown a few times in the opposite direction in order to “recharge” the watch before proceeding with the actual adjustment.

• Pull the crown out as far as possible. Without forcing either: it involves putting the crown in position 2 to be precise.

• Set the GMT hand first on UTC time, simply turn the crown to set the GMT hand to universal time using the 24-hour scale on the bezel. When doing this, you will notice that all the hands move at the same time, this is normal, the important thing is that the GMT hand is set to universal time and the minute hand is set correctly in relation this time at the normal 12 o'clock scale of the dial

• Position the crown on level 1 position (the crown is no longer pulled out to the maximum as in position 2, the crown is pushed slightly towards the case)

• Adjust the hour hand: you will see that the normal hour hand will “jump” hour by hour (Jump Hour Function), everything is normal, it is a matter of adjusting the hour hand without changing the setting of the hour previous step. Note that, in doing so, we set the date in this way

• Once everything is set, simply screw the crown back in to ensure the watch is waterproof

Now, when traveling, simply turn the bezel to set it to the appropriate time zone without having to change the time on the watch: the GMT hand will give the time of the country in which you are traveling and you will keep the time of your home with the other hands.

And as a video is more explicit, I recommend watching this one which explains (in English) how to adjust your GMT:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGlyg7RIsQc

Now, have a good trip!