I had already been told about Hèdus , telling me that this brand offers innovative clothing, with noble materials, at a good quality/price ratio. Today, these three parameters combined are rarely found in a clothing brand. So I tested the Hèdus locker room.
When I met Georges Som (co-founder with Carol Sossou), he immediately spoke to me about the central point of the brand: its philosophy. So I asked Georges to tell us, in a few words, the story of Hèdus:
Interview with Georges Som, co-founder of the brand
How did it all start?
"Carol and I (co-founders), it's above all a friendship of more than 20 years. We evolved in parallel: Carol in business school specializing in finance, and me at the Sorbonne in business strategy. We always knew that We would work together and it was good timing that allowed us to embark on the project: Carol worked in a large group in which things were going well but he had other desires regarding his future and I was coming back. six months in Buenos Aires and I needed to follow up with an ambitious and cool project.
We were frustrated by the men's offering that didn't correspond to our way of life, so we founded Hèdus in 2010 to create the clothes we would like to wear, a wardrobe that would resemble us."
Can you tell us about your philosophy?
"Hèdus is a summary of what we love and what we are. It is pleasure that guides us. We seek to take pleasure in what we do and to materialize it in our creations.
We are fascinated by the details. We like simple and subtle things. We take a lot of inspiration from what women wear to create. They are much bolder than men. Hèdus is the search for pleasure, emotion, a desire to accompany men in their urban wanderings. Before being a wardrobe, Hèdus is a philosophy, a state of mind based on hedonism. Hèdus could be a bar, a song, a book."
Georges Som: Double-breasted cardigan, HÈDUS shirt and raw jeans, SCHMOOVE shoes, BILLTORNADE bag and ERODZ glasses
Carol Sossou: HÈDUS shirt and chinos, PANIQ shoes, HOUSE OF VICE bracelet
I chose to start with this mini interview so that you can understand the brand's approach, and what it brings to their collections.
Now: Shirt Test
The same model that Carol wears, but in a different color.
You may have come across this two-tone shirt in the street, it's Hèdus' flagship model.
Its original design is due to its princess cut. But then, what is a princess cut ?
This cut is most often found on women's clothing , yes sir! Many dresses and blouses are created from this pattern with the simple aim of having a well -fitted piece that fits perfectly.
Here, we can clearly see the bending work carried out on the shirt.
The idea of adapting this cut to men is bold and successful. The fabric used for this shirt is twill .
Quick reminder: Twill has a diagonal weave (the diagonal weaving structure) with two threads: warp thread and weft thread. And they are different thicknesses. This type of fabric is most often used on ties, with silk, because it highlights the color of the fabric and the structure of the pieces.
Normal size.
Twill enlarged x 36,000!
Twill is a little thicker than poplin .
When you put on the shirt for the first time, you have the impression that a cotton woman is giving you a big hug. More seriously, the assembly of the fabric panels allows the shirt to follow your movements. For thin men, this cut really highlights the shape, it clearly avoids having a floating armhole when you lack arms or pectorals.
We can clearly see the bending at the shoulder, pectorals and arm.
The buttons are plastic colored to match the fabric
(you can't have everything, but they're still pretty damn good).
They are not cross-stitched, but they hold up very well.
For 110 euros, the choice of a casual shirt is not made on a whim. At this price, the quality of the cut and materials must be there.
The modern cut and details are softened by soft colors. The end result is very successful. I had already fallen for this original shirt which cannot be confused with any other. The price held me back a little. To be honest, today after several days of wearing it, it no longer shocks me at all, it is justified .
Teddy Cardigan Test
I wear a lot of cardigans. Having a rather classic style, the cardigan is consistent with my wardrobe, but can sometimes seem a little bland.
Hèdus still subtly plays the exoticism card.
The teddy cardigan gives a casual look.
A little reluctant about this marriage of styles, I was still attracted by the combination of colors. The piece remains discreet, it doesn't overdo it. Here we find a good balance between these two classics of men's fashion (cardigan and teddy jacket).
As for the fabric, the first time I wore it, I immediately felt the quality of the material. Made from Italian yarn, it is very soft and very comfortable. It is made of cotton (90%) and cashmere (10%). It stretches well and remains structured, like any good cardigan.
I usually wear my cardigans with shirts. With the teddy Cardigan, this is not possible, the teddy collar is not suitable for it. On the other hand, it's tip top for a streetwear- inspired look.
We find the characteristic ribbed edge of the Teddy on the collar and on the sleeves.
The finishes are impeccable, no rough seams are visible. As for the price, you can treat yourself to this revisited cardigan for €150.
Quite frankly, it's a piece that really has its place in a wardrobe, to wear with a t-shirt, a sweater and sneakers.
Test of Hèdus raw jeans
Jeans are difficult to produce, especially when it's not your core business.
When I discovered Hèdus jeans, I was pleasantly surprised by the strength of the fabric, the jeans hold up. Personally, I'm not a particular fan of stitching in different colors, but it can add a touch of originality, a little creative side.
There is also originality in the clever location of the rear pockets (lined) which give a “trompe l'oeil” effect. No patch pockets like most jeans.
You can see the trompe l'oeil pocket, the absence of patches and rivets.
No reinforcing rivets (often decorative these days), no patch . We are indeed in the presence of revisited jeans, but above all refined down to the smallest detail.
As far as the seams are concerned, it's solid: nothing sticks out, the buttonholes are solid, the stopping points are well marked.
Everything is perfect, I have rarely seen such clean jeans for this price.
For those who like to turn up the bottom of their pants, Carol and Georges even thought of overcasting the interior seams (there is a sort of braid that finishes the edge of the different inserts). This allows the jeans to be slightly sturdier by preventing the fabric from fraying.
As a fan of cuffs myself, I'm not ashamed of the inside of these jeans, on the contrary!
As for the fit, it's a nicely tapered semi-slim. I wore it for several days: it is very comfortable, it relaxes well and adapts to the body. It delivers everything you expect from a good pair of jeans.
So, no, it's not a selvedge. The hem isn't chain stitch, but who cares? As Benoît says in his article recognizing high-end jeans , you should not be snobbish. It is very comfortable, solid, original. It remains inexpensive for its quality, so go for it without hesitation.
Test of the “carrot” cut chinos
The cut surprises when you try on the piece. Indeed, it is a carrot cut. At a time when most chino manufacturers offer straight cuts, Hèdus is once again playing originality.
The shape of the pocket opening is also original.
As with the shirt, the carrot cut is most often seen on women.
What is a carrot cut?
Quite simply, it's the pants that tighten on the leg from top to bottom, like a carrot!
The advantage? The cut clearly refines the silhouette, you have longer legs.
In terms of quality , no surprises when we tried the jeans! The seams are impeccable, it's solid. The back pockets are lined as on the raw material. The seams on the inside of the legs are overcast as on the raw. Overcasting prevents the fabric from fraying, so remains more durable and aesthetic (if you like cuffs).
Check for yourself!
The carrot cut allows you to feel more comfortable and sport a more street style.
I wear it often now, it's really nice. Brushed cotton is very soft, quite thick.
I've had a lot of emails from readers with strong thighs who want to look good. This cut can be very effective for this type of body shape. And for men with thin thighs, like me, the street side is accentuated.
I also had a lot of trouble wearing my blazers with jeans, because the shoe opening is wide, so you never know whether to take the pants in or out. Here, the problem is solved without having a slim fit that hugs, say, your upper thighs.
The jacket
I see you coming from here, you're going to say to me: "It's a teddy!" Well no ! or almost. This piece is quite disturbing, but remains coherent. When you start to wear Hèdus, the cut, the exoticism, and the material of the piece even seem logical.
This is the second piece that the two designers have made from teddy bears. Here, the jacket is even more elaborate than the cardigan.
First of all, the pass. No ribbing like on the American classic. Here we find two added strips which help structure the piece and reinforce its refined side. The sporty aspect is thus attenuated, and it is true that it is more elegant!
For fans of ribbing, don't panic, it can be found on the wrists as well as on the belt .
The ribbed edge clearly visible on the cuffs and waistband.
What I like best about this jacket are the topstitched seams on the shoulders which recall the military side. It's the kind of designer piece that doesn't overdo it.
Topstitched seams.
As for the finishes, still no surprises: we are looking at a quality piece, it's solid. The lining is viscose for greater comfort (more breathable than polyester). Everything is thought out and rethought.
Viscose lining and impeccable finishes.
Princess cut that has become emblematic at Hèdus.
The jacket is made mainly of virgin wool from Italy .
A quick reminder about virgin wool: for the more perverse among you, it is not wool coming from a sheep that has never enjoyed life. When you see " 100% wool " or " pure wool " on the label of your sweater, you can often come across poor quality wool which can be recovered from skinned animal skins or recycled wool .
Other fibers are often added to wool, either to provide additional comfort (good!), or a different outfit (good!), or to limit costs ( not good! ).
When you wear virgin wool, you are therefore certain that you have on you the coat of a well-fed animal still roaming in the meadows and also ensures a limit of adding other fibers to 7%. We can go even further with pure virgin wool which limits the contribution of other fibers to 0.3% (but this is not necessarily preferable in terms of softness and maintenance).
With virgin wool, you can live coolly, like Bernard.
Another nice little detail, the wool is water-repellent . A quality wool must have the ability to make drops of water slide off the surface of the garment.
The criticism I could make about this jacket is the shoulder support. If you are a little short on shoulders, the shoulder roof of the garment may come out at the level of the sleeve yoke. If you wear it with a sweater, the effect will be significantly reduced.
The sleeves are quite long, so don't be afraid to go a size smaller than your usual size if you prefer to wear it with a tee.
The making
All the products you will find at Hèdus come from Europe. Like most emerging quality brands, the goal is not to source mainly from France, but to combine quality, reasonable cost and proximity to manufacturers. We therefore find Italian wool, cotton woven in France, Spanish denim…
Do you recommend?
For the two young designers Georges and Carol, clothing is only an extension of the attitude of the man who wears it. The collection surprises, hides many surprises with its casualness and elegance. Each piece has an originality, a perfectly controlled eccentricity.
We really feel the passion of the two young men through their creations, at affordable prices. You will have understood, these two designers live life and fashion as they wish… And they do it well!
It's rare to find brands that dare to think outside the box without falling into extremes. This is why I highly recommend !
