After a first article on the Chevignon brand , before going into details, and given that we have never talked about shearling (= shearling) on BonneGueule, I would like to detail what this material is, and Where does the bomber jacket come from?
And then we move on to the photos!
What is shearling?
Since the dawn of time, we Homo sapiens have used animal skins to protect themselves from the cold of winter. In this context, sheep has always been a popular choice, because it is a very robust skin.
The shearling, a long time ago, in a galaxy far far away...
The shearling jacket, better known as the "aviator jacket", is a shearling skin. I would even say more: it is the skin of a recently shorn sheep or lamb, which has then been tanned.
Indeed, the word "shearling" refers to a young sheep, approximately one year old, which has been sheared once. This is an important element, because "standard" sheepskin clothing is rougher to the touch than shearling , because it is made with adult sheepskins, the latter being less soft and silky.
An example of shearling in all its splendor... This sheep doesn't know it yet, but on its back it carries formidable armor against the cold.
Shearling can be made from real sheepskin or with synthetic fibers (but in this case the skin breathes less). It's a soft and warm material, in short: very pleasant to wear.
We saw very beautiful models at Balmain, Burberry and Dior; and they come in a wide variety of shapes and lengths.
Burberry Prorsum has made an entire collection around this material, including its legendary shearling jacket .
Keep in mind that up to three pelts may be needed for a long coat . The skins must be hand-cut by a specialist craftsman and then sewn together to shape the coat.
The shearling jacket is therefore really soft but above all it is very warm; even more so than down from geese or ducks. It therefore represents a more than useful investment when temperatures drop; especially since these clothes are robust and stand the test of time: you can wear them for years (provided you give them the appropriate care)! In fact, it is such a thick material that it ages without problem. Like a selvedge canvas, the more the material develops a patina over time, the more beautiful it will become.
The “flying jacket”: a birth in the air
It was in the 1920s that American paratrooper Leslie Leroy Irvin designed this jacket , following a very courageous exploit. Indeed, he is the first man to have dared to do a free fall jump: it is 1919, the man discovers wings. At the time, these bomber jackets were made entirely of leather (synthetic textiles didn't really exist anyway).
Leslie Leroy Irvin, the one and only. +1 for the quickdraw.
The rise of the aviator jacket then came during the Second World War, in the 1940s. It was the pilots of American planes (bombers) of the US Air Force who adopted it as a uniform (associated to the famous Rayban "Aviator"): the "flying jacket" was born ! This shearling jacket also appealed to German Luftwaffe fighter pilots and British Royal Air Force pilots for obvious reasons.
A plane, a mug, and a shearling jacket, that was class in 1940.
Concretely, this garment is designed to combat harsh conditions : temperatures are very low for pilots at altitude and their outfit must resist rain, cold and wind. Sheep being a thick and protective material, it was ideal for the Air Force.
Its design is also a plus: a wide collar combined with lined cuffs and waist: everything keeps the freezing cold out. In the 1950s, aviators became true post-war heroes in the United States, and were then considered icons by popular culture: the same goes for their style: the shearling jacket became iconic.
An American style icon... Oh no, sorry, he's just a cowboy on the plains.
More cowboys...
The 70s marked the heyday of shearling , it became a flagship product, very trendy, seen on all the celebrities (always American mainly) who showed off with a beautiful sheepskin on their back.
It was not until the 1980s that the bomber jacket reached France , where it became fashionable thanks to Chevignon. At that time, we were still looking at cuts with imposing volumes that would look out of date in today's men's ready-to-wear landscape.
On the other hand, the year 2010 marks a real return of the aviator jacket, thanks to Burberry Prorsum. Today, shearling is still present on fashion shows : Burberry, Balmain, etc., while US Air Force pilots still wear it.
It's hard to find a more virile piece.
Test of the Chevignon shearling jacket
Now that we've set the scene, let's put on one of these famous shearlings, Chevignon's great specialty.
You should know that it was a piece for which I had heavy prejudices: I systematically found shearling jackets too wide at the shoulders, too drooping, too uncouth, too cheap ... In short, we cannot say that I started from a neutral a priori .
What bothered me was the cut which was systematically wide, as if a fitted shearling jacket did not exist.
This is the beast! As I said, you can't have a tighter cut with this piece, otherwise it would make it uncomfortable.
A cut that performs honorably given the constraints of the material
But as soon as I put on the jacket, I immediately understand the constraints linked to the material. In fact, the leather is so thick that the slightest over-fitted shearling sleeve can become very impractical (to the point of preventing you from bending your arm completely). And if the sleeve is too tight, the skin inside the sleeve grabs the sweatshirt sleeve when putting it on.
But that said, with such a complicated material to work in section, Yoann did admirably well. Certainly, it's not as fitted as a lambskin jacket from Balmain, but it's a fitted cut, with clean shoulders.
I emphasize the shoulders, because usually, they are systematically dropped on this type of piece from other brands, probably for ease of patterning. But as Yoann explains in his interview, he wanted to go against the usual oversized cuts on these products to make the piece - I quote - "sexy".
In terms of the cut, it is therefore a success . From a design point of view, Yohann had the good taste of not showing any shearling on the sleeves, bottom or central zipper.
This is exactly the type of design that I don't like at all on a shearling. The sleeves have a turned-over effect, which makes everything quite kitsch. This is NOT a Chevignon piece!
Numerous inserts enhance the jacket
In order to have a more elaborate design, Yoann added inserts of very beautiful lambskin on the arms which will become more beautiful over time. He also structured the piece by adding a few thin strips of leather to clearly outline the middle.
The skin is very dense and warm. On the left, you see the lambskin edging which structures the piece.
So, how do we feel in such a room? Well it's not complicated, given the thickness of the leather, it's one of the warmest pieces I've worn (and I'm telling you that from a Canada Goose fan ).
Shearling is definitely one of the most effective protections against the cold that Mother Nature has invented. It's warm and cozy! We feel that nothing can happen to us, even in the face of negative temperatures. If you're in the middle of a storm, you can also raise the imposing collar, with a bonus "Bane" effect.
Bane approves of the shearling. Look no further, it's a piece created especially for the film, inspired by a Swedish military coat. As for the pants, they come from the Crye Precision brand (yes, I love movie costumes).
A good quality shearling
The skin is of very good quality, very dense and full, with this slightly yellowed effect that I really like. In short, the whole thing exudes high-end and robustness and we feel that Chevignon has not sought to save money on materials, quite the contrary.
The pockets are neat. They are held in place thanks to a small braided leather cord that can be seen on the right.
Who is this type of piece aimed at?
Definitely not for those who want a “versatile” piece at all costs and to have a style that doesn’t stand out.
On the other hand, those who want warm leather with an imposing and masculine presence, almost wild , this is ideal for you. It's hard to be more adventurous ...
Yoann gives very good tips for wearing it: you have to mix elegant (oxford shirt, wool pants) with casual (low-top sneakers, t-shirt). We'll just avoid the rogue effect by putting aside overly sophisticated sneakers like Air Max or overly ostentatious clothing (and obviously, no sweatpants!). You really have to keep it simple with this kind of design.
We therefore have a good cut + a good design + a beautiful material = a very successful piece. Now let's look at Chevignon's other specialty to protect you from the cold: the down jacket.
Eldeven down jacket review
The Eldeven label
Eldeven is a label registered and developed by Pyrenex for the treatment of feathers and down.
When you see this, it's a very good sign about the quality of your down.
Down is the most precious part of the plumage : it represents 10%. It is therefore rarer, and therefore used for more high-end products.
The quality of the down used depends on the strict selection of the geese and ducks from which it comes ; because the animals come from the best farms in France (different regions: Aquitaine, Pyrenees and Poitou).
Eldeven down therefore ensures a quality standard, thanks to its very good thermal insulation , combined with the lightness and durability of its products .
This down is rigorously treated beforehand: it is washed with anti-bacterial soaps, then sterilized and finally dusted. All these steps guarantee the purity of the material , and are carried out with strict respect for the environment. Moreover, Pyrenex down has official certification: Oekotex, which is a recognized eco-design label.
I'm wearing Atelier Voisin ankle boots that I can't take off, BonneGueule Kurabo jeans, an Atelier Particulier cashmere scarf and a Chevignon down jacket. In terms of volumes, we are on a short and urban piece. No double-bendum effect here.
The Tog's jacket keeps its promises
Once the piece is put on, the down plays its insulating role perfectly. You won't feel cold in your chest, it is well protected. That said, don't forget to take your scarf and gloves!
From a design point of view, we have vintage influences (hence the colors and the diamond pattern) but with a fairly short cut. This makes this down jacket a relatively fitted quilted jacket for this type of product and very easy to wear over a sweatshirt or cardigan. I am also very satisfied with the cut.
Small downside on a functionality
A small downside however: I would have appreciated if the hand pockets had a fleece lining. There, when you don't have gloves and it's cold, the polyamide doesn't really retain the heat in your hands.
While it is a padded piece, the shoulders are well done. Also note the reflections of the Atelier Particulier cashmere scarf.
The material has a water-repellent treatment, and the lining appears to be in "ripstock" fabric, therefore resistant to tears. In terms of materials, everything seems very durable.
The ribbed cuff protects well from the cold.
For less than €400, you are facing good quality/price ratio, because usually, pieces with quality down are much more expensive (this is an expense item on which a brand cannot cheat) .
Conclusion of the Chevignon test: a successful renewal of the brand
With Yoann as artistic director, the brand seems well on its way to positioning itself as a casual alternative at affordable prices. If she maintains a real specialty in leather and outerwear pieces, I noticed that Yoann is very picky about certain details of jeans or shirts.
In short, for a brand over 35 years old, it is in the process of giving itself a new lease of life. We wish them to continue in this direction!
