Traditions and crafts: discovering Indian know-how

Each region of the globe has its own unique weaving techniques, patterns, and styles, allowing for a great diversity in textile craftsmanship. For example, Japan is known for its delicate and subtle textile craftsmanship, showcasing age-old methods such as silk kimono weaving , the intricate art of indigo, and the precise embroidery of traditional kimonos.

Likewise, Italy is renowned for its excellence in textiles, with regions such as Tuscany and Lombardy specializing in the production of high-quality fabrics. Italians are renowned for their mastery of techniques such as jacquard weaving , Venetian lace, and hand embroidery, resulting in luxurious garments that adorn Italy's most prestigious fashion houses.

France is also a wealthy country, especially in the Lyon region, which is famous for its expertise in silk weaving. The French have perfected advanced processes such as brocade, damask and velvet, giving rise to opulent fabrics used in haute couture and interior design.

Other countries, such as Indonesia, Morocco, Peru, Ghana and many others, also have unique and remarkable textile traditions. Each of these countries has developed its own techniques, often using natural materials and designs inspired by nature, mythology or local spirituality.

These textile skills, where they are found, are often preserved by specific communities, who attach great importance to their cultural heritage. Artisans pass on their knowledge from generation to generation, thus perpetuating age-old traditions.

Thus, for fashion enthusiasts, exploring the know-how of different countries is a captivating experience. It is a journey that allows one to discover the beauty of cultural diversity, appreciate the exceptional technical skills of artisans and understand the importance of traditions in building the cultural identity of each country.

The History of the Indian Textile Market

For centuries, India has been at the center of the global textile trade. Since ancient times, the peoples of northern India produced cotton cloth, and traded with neighboring Western civilizations from the Middle East to the Maghreb.

In the 18th century , Indian traders (especially from Bengal) transported large quantities of cotton and silk via the Silk Road to Europe , which was beginning to industrialize. Traditional weaving gradually disappeared, in favor of large industries, which cost less to Western retailers. As soon as the country gained independence in 1947, the sector developed, moving from the small weavers and tanneries of yesteryear to the large contemporary factories.

For a few years now, we have been witnessing a return to the roots of Indian "handmade". At the opposite end of the spectrum from fast fashion, brands are trying to return to traditional weaving, to the values ​​of yesteryear . This desire involves a return to craftsmanship, to handmade fabrics.

Traditional Indian fabrics and embroidery

Indian fabrics and embroidery have long been acclaimed worldwide for their beauty, sophistication and cultural richness. India, with its age-old heritage, is a veritable paradise for lovers of exquisite fabrics and delicate embroidery.

India has a deep-rooted textile tradition, with each region of the country developing its own distinctive methods and patterns. Indian fabrics are often made from natural fibres such as cotton, silk, linen and wool, offering a diversity of textures and unique characteristics.

Each region of India has its own embroidery techniques and styles, reflecting the cultural diversity of the country. Be it the invented embroideries of Rajasthan, the delicate floral motifs of Kashmir, the golden ornaments of Gujarat or the tribal patterns of Odisha, each form of embroidery tells a unique story and captures the essence of the regional culture.

The most beautiful Indian fabrics according to us...

Khadi, from an anti-colonialist symbol to the fashion week catwalks

It is a craft that originates from rural India, embodies the essence of hand-made fabric. This fabric is made by spinning natural fibers such as cotton, silk or wool on the Charkha, a traditional Indian spinning wheel.

Khadi has become an iconic symbol of Gandhi's nonviolent revolution and has even been featured on the Indian national flag. Its texture has a characteristic irregularity and rusticity , resulting from its entirely manual manufacturing. However, this particularity gives it the advantage of using the abundant natural resources in India, making it an interesting alternative in the textile industry preserved on respect for the environment. Its unique texture also contributes to its original and authentic charm.

Thanks to its natural composition, Khadi is particularly suitable for making clothes, offering great breathability in contact with the skin. It is also widely used in the creation of household linen and in interior decoration.

Originally a symbol of the Indian independence movement, Khadi is now attracting growing interest among creators and designers.

Batik, an artistic fabric

The process of creating an Indian Batik fabric is long and laborious, a testament to the meticulousness of the workers involved. The first step is to draw the patterns on the fabric, a task that requires great precision.

Then, the parts of the fabric that will not be colored must be protected by applying hot wax . When applying the colors, there are two methods: either the fabric is dipped in a bath of paint applied, or the paint is directly on the patterns.

For the final step in creating this Indian fabric, the wax needs to be removed. This can be done either by dipping the fabric in boiling water or by using an iron. This step is crucial in revealing the vibrant patterns and colors of the Batik fabric.

This intricate process reflects the dedication of artisans who have worked with patience and expertise to create unique and refined pieces. Indian Batik fabric is a true testament to the art and craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations.

Tie and Dye, a fabric with timeless charm

A process originating from the city of Rajasthan, Tie and Dye is omnipresent in ethnic fashion, particularly in blouse collections. It aims to obtain a harmonious color gradient.

To achieve this, the fabric is first knotted before being dipped in one or more paint baths. By knotting the fabric in this way, the level of color absorption is different between the outer and inner parts of the knotted fabric.

So, when the fabric is dyed, the knots prevent some areas from absorbing as much color as the unknotted areas . This results in a subtle and captivating gradient effect. This method gives Indian Tie and Dye its unique aesthetic and recognizable signature.

The end result is a vibrant fabric, with varied and dynamic colors, which gives a touch of originality and sophistication to the clothes and accessories that are adorned with it. Indian Tie and Dye is an artistic expression that continues to seduce with its timeless charm and mastered technique.

Block printing or Dabu, the revival of an ancestral technique

The technique originated in India, specifically in the Rajasthan region in the northeast of the country. It dates back to the 14th century, although some sources suggest it could date back to 2,000 BC. In the 16th century, the method was brought to Europe with "Indiennes", printed fabrics imported from India and then produced locally. In the 19th century, with India becoming a British colony, the technique was gradually abandoned in favor of more industrial manufacturing methods. It was only after India gained independence in 1947 that local activity and woodblock printing experienced a revival.

At the origin of this printing method is a pattern drawn on paper, often inspired by nature with flowers, leaves and trees. Once the pattern is created and the colors decided, it is assigned to a sculptor who delicately engraves it on a block of exotic wood, usually rosewood. The piece of wood is chosen without knots, taken from the heart of the tree. The sculptor can take between 4 and 6 days to make an engraving. Then, the block is treated in an oil bath before being ready to be used. For polychrome patterns, it may be necessary to use 4 to 20 stamps depending on the complexity of the design and the range of colors.

On fabric, the patterns can be printed continuously or placed in specific places. Printing is done by applying manual pressure to the block. In order to obtain a uniform result, the wooden blocks are usually less than 25 cm. Once printed, the fabrics are dried in the open air.

The imprint left by the block on the fabric creates slight irregularities in the printing of patterns and colors. These small imperfections give each piece a unique look and add all the charm to these fabrics!

Ikat, one of the oldest techniques in the world

There is no denying that Ikat is one of the oldest processes used in the design of Indian fabrics. Like a puzzle, each thread is individually dyed according to the final pattern to be reproduced , then they are woven, assembled and juxtaposed to obtain the desired print.

Ikat are unique pieces. A weaver craftsman works for several months on a single piece of fabric , whether it is a figurative pattern (flowers, animals, figures) or abstract and geometric. However, the creation of an Ikat requires the contribution of several people: research of patterns, colors, materials, spinning, several separation baths with knots to reserve the areas intended for the pattern, pre-treatment, drying, weaving, etc. Dozens of steps are necessary, from the harvesting of the cotton to the finishing. Although cotton is generally used, silk or a mixture of silk and cotton can be used for the most luxurious sets.

He prepares his colorful pattern on the warp (ikat warp) or weft (ikat weft) threads, which are ready to be woven to create a fabric for various uses: clothing, decorative panels, ceremonies, etc. Strips of Ikat are assembled to form scarves or the traditional sarong , a long fabric worn as a draped skirt by both sexes. Ikat patterns can also be integrated into a classic weave.

Whatever the pattern, color or material, Ikat remains a festive or ceremonial fabric, of great luxury when designed on both the warp and weft threads, in a technique called Double Ikat , used in Japan, India and Indonesia. This process and this fabric are rare and precious, far from the printed industrial imitations that seek to reproduce even the defects of superposition of threads or dyeing.

Chanderi, the luxury fabric par excellence

Widely recognized for its association with luxury, Chanderi is distinguished by its embossed texture and shimmering sheen. This artisanal process involves crossing silk threads with cotton threads, resulting in a finish that is textured, lustrous and soft to the touch.

Madras, from India to the West Indies

Before becoming the traditional clothing of women in the West Indies and Guyana following Indian migration, the Madras originated in Chennai. It is woven from fibers previously dyed with natural dyes , as well as striped or checkered patterns.

Madras originated in the 17th century, made from dyed banana tree threads. However, its preservation proved to be complex: the threads broke easily, and the material from the banana tree gave off a particular odor. This is why, gradually, banana tree threads were mixed with cotton, which eventually completely replaced the banana tree in the composition of this Indian fabric. In fact, Madras takes its name from the city of Chennai, formerly known as... Madras! It is the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu. Today, this fishing village has become the fourth largest city in India!

KalamKari , of nature and life

The term "kalam", of Persian origin, means "brush" or "brush", while "kari" designates manual work.

Kalamkari is a pictorial art that originated in Andhra Pradesh in southern India. The drawings are made by hand on cotton canvas using a bamboo stem called "kalam" , which is refined while retaining its bark. A reservoir of rag containing vegetable dye is then added.

The patterns can also be carved on wooden boards and then printed on cotton canvas. The dyes used are always of vegetable or mineral origin, and the canvases that receive the patterns are always made of cotton.

The themes evoked in the drawings are generally taken from Hindu mythology , nature and daily life. The examples presented below highlight the peacock, a solar bird considered the jewel of the gardens of Maharajas, kings and paradise. For the Indians, it is also an omen of rain to come when it spreads its tail in a fan.

The cotton fabric is washed to remove its sizing, then dipped in a bath of karakai, a mordant that allows the ink to penetrate deep into the fibers. This gives the fabric a brownish tint. This bath is prepared from dried karakai nuts, pounded and mixed with buffalo milk.

The pattern is then traced on tracing paper before being reproduced in pencil on the canvas. The lines are then reinforced with black ink using kalam. The colours are applied starting with yellow, and the canvas is washed after each colour. Before applying the background, the areas already painted are protected with a thick resin called "fuma banka" to prevent the colours from mixing. Finally, the Kalamkari is washed one last time and all the lines are gone over with black ink.

The dyes used are mainly plant or mineral extracts, and are rarely synthetic.

The selection of our favorite Indian embroideries...

The Zardozi, pearls, precious stones and gold threads

Zardozi, an ancient art that originated in Persia, involves sewing gold and silver threads onto fabric. Its name is derived from the Persian words "zar" (gold) and "dozi" (work). During the Mughal Empire, Zardozi was used to embellish luxury clothing using gold or silver threads, embellished with ornaments.

Beads, precious stones, and gold and silver threads were used to create handmade textiles for royalty. These elaborate and extravagant embroideries were complemented by sumptuous velvets and silks. In order to preserve the luster and protect the elements of Zardozi embroidered garments, they are wrapped and stored in a soft cotton or muslin cloth.

Kantha, upcycling before its time

Kantha is a style of embroidery originating from the states of Bengal and Odisha in the eastern part of India. This art of Kantha has its origins in Bangladesh and is used to embellish fabrics such as bedspreads and throws made from old and worn fabrics , such as Saris or Dhotis (men's skirts made by draping a cloth around the waist).

Multiple sofas of these soft, vintage-style recycled fabrics are assembled using a simple running stitch, and sometimes embroidered designs are added using darning, satin stitching, and buttonhole stitching. Traditionally, the embroidery thread used for Kantha embroidery was taken from the edges of old garments. This type of embroidery recycles and gives new life to old textiles that would otherwise have been discarded. Kantha embroidery designs depict birds, animals, flowers, and scenes from everyday life in Indian villages, and are used to create unique pieces from recycled fabrics.

Chikankari, attention to detail

Chikankari is a style of embroidery that originated in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, a region in northern India. It is said that this technique was revealed by Empress Nur Jehan and is particularly known for its white-on-white details. This hand embroidery is extremely delicate and is artistically done using floral motifs on cotton, silk and organza . The fabric used for this embroidery must be soft and delicate. Each piece of hand embroidered Chikan is the result of the skills of several artisans.

Specialized embroiderers work on specific stitches, then pass the piece to another worker for the next step . It is labor-intensive and precise , and can use up to 35 different stitches: flat, raised and embossed stitches, and "Jaalis," open, lattice-like stitches in which small holes are punched into the fabric.

Phulkari, between culture and religion

Phulkari, originating from Punjab, a region in western India, is an embroidery characterized by floral motifs. Phulkari stitches are made on the reverse side of the fabric, and the design is formed on the visible side. This process uses floss silk threads, which are finely twisted silk threads, to create a lustrous effect.

Traditionally, this embroidery was practiced by women in their free time. The different types of Phulkari embroidery represent the rich cultural and religious blend of the Punjab region. The most magnificent pieces are the turbans, which are adorned with dense hand embroidery. These turbans are called "bagh" (garden) and are made especially for weddings. It can take more than a year to complete a "bagh".

Kutch, Say Goodbye to the Evil Eye

Hand embroidery from Kutch in the northwestern state of Gujarat in India is a perfect combination of thread craftsmanship and mirror work.

Kutch embroidery is distinguished from other embroidery styles by the use of small mirrors and colored threads. This type of embroidery is used on shopping bags , accessories and home decor. The stitches used are running stitch, double buttonhole, satin stitch and straight stitch.

Some communities in Gujarat believe that mirror work is an auspicious tool to ward off the evil eye, repelling bad luck and evil spirits away from the wearer. The origin of the reflective elements of mirror work is said to have developed from the use of mica (a mineral with a shiny surface).

Our collaboration with Kardo, to highlight some of this know-how

At BonneGueule, we have always wanted to seek out the best know-how in the world. For some time now, the idea of ​​working with 100% artisanal products has been on our minds. And to make this project a reality, we decided to collaborate with a unique Indian brand: Kardo.

Benoît, co-founder of the BonneGueule brand, explains this choice to us: “ For years, we have explored different know-how from all four corners of the world. Today, I wanted to turn to Indian artisanal fabrics, with a strong identity and common values .”

Indeed, this desire to work with quality products is a priority shared by our two brands.

Rikki Kher, founder of Kardo, tells us why he wanted to create his brand: "I wanted to pay tribute to the many traditional Indian weaving and dyeing techniques, while bringing a breath of modernity and a real adaptation to current requirements. But also, I wanted to change the mentalities of mass consumption and production."

Kardo chooses slow manufacturing , paying particular attention to the details and finishes that make up their pieces. As an anecdote, Ricky explained to me that each stage of manufacturing was managed by a dedicated craftsman. Craftsmen whose names can be found on the inside label, in order to highlight the quality of each person's work and the human scale of the Indian brand.

So for this collaboration, as you can imagine, many of the fabrics mentioned above were used, including block-printing for our shirts.

To access this collaboration in preview, registrations are open here .