If you have built a sustainable wardrobe without this happening to you, let us know in the comments below because you are probably the chosen one.
For my part, it was APC jeans in 2016. There was a Hircus sweater too. A De Fursac chino and I'll stop counting there because my wallet hurts just thinking about it.
Through interacting with customers in stores, online readers, and colleagues at the office, I realized that many of us have experienced this:
- We decide to dress better and develop a personal style.
- We start by laying the foundations of our new wardrobe by gradually replacing our disposable clothes with beautiful and well-made basics.
- With this in mind, one day we enter our credit card on an e-shop and say to ourselves “€160 for a sweatshirt, it’s worth it. Normally I still have it in 5 years. That’s just over 30 euros per year!”
- A year later, we found ourselves taking a photo of it on a hanger hanging on the fridge door to make a Vinted ad, because we no longer wear it. Or, worse, we throw it away.
Even if in the end, we are happy with most of our purchases, there is always this marginal error rate which makes us regret paying in three installments (that's experience speaking). I'm actually curious to know which item of clothing it was for you and why (the comments are still at the bottom).
Making a mistake is part of the path to a locker room that you are completely satisfied with. To limit breakage by choosing the right basics, those that you will wear for a really long time, you will find plenty of purchasing advice on our media.
And when we develop basics ourselves with our product team, we do our best to ensure that you wear them for a long time too. This is particularly the case with our new capsule and in this presentation, I explain why.
Reason #1: You won't get tired of it the next day
I told you about a sweater above. A hundred euros and I stopped wearing it a few months later because when I did, I found my outfit too simple.
I thought the solution was to systematically focus on strong pieces and accessories everywhere.
But since then, I've realized that a good basic should stand on its own to take my outfits from simple to interesting. That way he wouldn't bore me after a while.
Jordan illustrates this very well here with three pieces of clothing that couldn't be more basic: our new lichen green Setubal sweatshirt, our new raw Nîmes jeans and here).
We owe this adventure to the weaver Kurabo who:
- uses traditional rope dyeing , agglomerating rope threads to immerse them in indigo baths. Thus, the dye does not impregnate the yarn deeply and will disappear more easily over time, with very varied shades,
- takes the time to let the irregularities of the denim express themselves by weaving it slowly on old machines, expensive to master and maintain but whose result is well worth it.
To better understand this know-how and discover the impressive history of Kurabo, how about going directly to see them in Japan with our co-founders?
Identity card for raw Nîmes jeans
Origin of cotton: USA
Weaving: Japan
Editing: Portugal
Choice of size: take your usual size at BonneGueule. Jordan wears it in 34, Kilian in 34 and Antoine in 32. To access our size guide, click here.
Price: €185.
Availability: available on our e-shop and in our stores from this Friday, August 25 at 4 p.m.
Reason #2: you can easily combine them
High-end or not, if a basic item doesn't go easily with our other clothes, it won't come out of our wardrobe often and we'll end up replacing it. All it takes is for khaki chinos to be too bright, for indigo jeans to be too strong to limit the possibilities, because their too strong shade will clash with the others. Personally, for example, I have a pair of green fatigue pants that are a little too bright and which I struggled to wear with anything other than a white t-shirt and black mocs for a long time.
The solution could be to settle for gray sweatshirts and navy chinos all our lives, but we find it too short for that. We rather think that it is enough to focus on the right shades. Those that we can combine without any hassle. Our product team worked on our new colors precisely for this.
So that the colors of our new hoodies and our new sweatshirt are not too strong, we chose them to be faded rather than bright. For that, we say thank you to the famous garment dyed dye which permeates less and therefore washes out better the first wash in the workshop!
This is what allows this fuchsia pink to go very well with dark green for example.
Or this lichen green to be worn as simply as khakis.
And if you wake up one morning with neurons as efficient as the Wolf of Wall Street getting into his Lamborghini, think about shades: tobacco with beige, pink with brown, etc.
Same principle for our Cascais shirt: its dominant terracotta is nothing more than a variation of brown. And what do we use brown with? With blues, grays, khaki, beige. Everything in fact, but not all at the same time of course.
Dark and therefore sober, the bottle green of our new Princeton chinos also has no trouble coexisting with other colors. You can even let loose with a red club tie to act like an American student.
Reason #3: Your body won't run away from them
It's stronger than us and it's completely natural: when our hand grabs clothes from the wardrobe, it unconsciously goes towards the most comfortable pieces. Those that our skin knows by heart. Those who follow our movements as if they were an extension of us.
The logical consequence is that if the cut of jeans tightens our thighs, if the sleeves of a sweatshirt oppress us, they will end up forgotten.
When I say forgotten, I think of that famous pile of clothes that we refuse to part with because we have invested too much in them. Because we tell ourselves that we will put them back one day, until the day we stop the denial and replace them.
Our product team has therefore ensured that the cuts and materials of our new basics are a pleasure to wear.
For this reason, the fleece of our new sweatshirt and our new hoodies is still just as supple, since it was washed in the workshop after dyeing.
You will also feel the typical curls of French Terry wrapping around you like those of a towel. As they did for athletes who sweated on cool mornings.
In short, everything you ask for in a sweatshirt.
We also reviewed the cut and to talk to you about it in detail, I'm lending the pen to Benoît.
A more comfortable fit on our sweatshirts
Intervention by Benoît, co-founder
“What we wanted to solve:
Indeed, the material of our sweatshirts has a very beautiful vintage appearance, with a very dense and compact hand, which exudes durability.
But since it is a very compact jersey, it may lack mechanical stretch, and some customers have reported a feeling of tightness when wearing it, a cut too close to the body.
So we wanted to correct that.
The solution found:
For the Soajo and the Setubal, we have slightly enlarged the neckline for easier donning, widened the bottom and the sleeves.
In detail, we have:
- widened the half-neckline by 0.5 cm,
- restored neckline depth of 1 cm,
- increased the hood height by 1 cm,
- increased the hood depth by 1 cm,
- increased the total height by 1 cm,
- increased the bottom ½ width by + 4.5 cm,
- And increased the ½ width of the bottom of the sleeve by + 1cm.
(obviously, these measurements have been adapted according to sizes)
The result ? A more comfortable fit, which will delight those who found our sweatshirts too close to the body!”
- Benedict
Concerning our new Cascais shirt, we also chose its downy feel and its 70% cotton for the softness they provide. As for the rough edges of linen which give it its texture, they are not present enough (30%) to detract from this softness.
Knowing that everything will continue to soften over time.
Its cut is slightly straight , to allow more freedom of movement than a fitted cut without straying too far from the lines of your figure.
And now it's time to celebrate another SPCDB victory!
Yes, the Union of Straight Cut Supporters at BonneGueule - of which I am a member - has struck again, to the great pleasure of your thighs and calves. 20.4cm opening for a size 48 on our
Between this ease and the velvet shower of the Bedford Cord, any pair of legs should want to slip into it when they wake up.
If you prefer a bottom that follows your leg line more closely because you are particularly proud of it, the semi-slim cut of our new Nîmes raw jeans does so without suffocating the thighs.
It leaves them space (32cm for a size 30) then gently moves closer to the ankles (18.2cm for a size 30).
Reason #4: They are equipped not to let you go
No chips Sherlock, you might say. We invest in a quality basic so that it lasts. However, it is not always that simple. Ask the ribbed edges of the sweatshirt that I now use for sports or the exploded pockets of Benoît's chinos that we show you below.
Sometimes you ask us for advice on repairing your clothes and there too, we see pieces purchased a year or two ago maximum.
To avoid this, putting more money into fleece or heavier denim is not enough. A pair of 19oz Japanese selvedge denim jeans will give us a nice leg if the fly breaks from going to drain our paints of barley juice on Friday evening.
The finishing touches, often forgotten, are essential so as not to have to replace a garment after a few months. They are the ones who bear the weight of daily wear and tear, the friction, the stretching, the sudden and hasty movements in the morning to leave home on time.
Throughout the development of our sweatshirts and hoodies, we think we have found the right formula so that the ribbed edges stay well on you:
- 98% cotton for durability, 2% elastane for good fit on the hoodies side, 97% cotton and 3% on the sweats side,
- thickness of 330gr/m2 on the hoodies side and 300gr/m2 on the sweatshirts side for 7cm long, because they must be large enough to maintain the weight of the sleeves when you roll them up.
The small differences between hoodies and sweatshirts are adapted to their differences in weight, the sweatshirts being a little lighter.
So that the buttons on our new Cascais shirt don't fail you, their recipe has not changed:
- they are made of very thick mother-of-pearl for strength, unlike most flat buttons on the market,
- and mounted on a tail so that they do not come undone by being buttoned and unbuttoned.
You will also find double needle stitching on the sides of the shirt.
As for our Princeton chinos, Benoît wanted them to have as little chance as possible of ending up like the photos below.
Grosgrain finishes for the durability of our chinos
Intervention by Benoît, co-founder
“What we wanted to solve:
Being a heavy backpack wearer (I wear one almost every day: for work, sport, travel, etc.), I have sometimes had my rear pants loops very worn, bordering on pure cracking. and simple.
Same, on other pants that I have worn a lot, I have the pocket opening which has sometimes become worn out.
The solution found:
So I wanted to experiment with a finish to solve these problems, taking inspiration from what I had seen on certain military/outdoor clothing, and adapting it to our world. So we came up with the idea of grosgrain, a type of weave that resists friction well.
These pants will therefore be much more durable in terms of the pockets and the loops which will rub with a backpack!
And on top of that, I am someone who really likes the texture of grosgrain, because I find that it bridges very different worlds that I really like. We find grosgrain in the world of tailoring and luxury art, but also on military clothing and accessories!”
- Benedict
You will also discover on these chinos:
- a solid horn button at the front,
- mounted on tail with tenacious fixation using the Ascolite technique, involving twisting with elastic thread,
- a YKK zip fly whose reputation we no longer defend,
- and bound on the edges inside so that it does not fray,
- an additional nylon zip hidden in the left front pocket and on the opening of the right rear pocket,
- cotton pocket bags.
Same ambition for the raw Nîmes jeans: your belt may rub against it because we chose double loops, then we added a fabric lining to limit the effects of abrasion.
So remember to slip your belt between them! Not like me who completely missed out on my first jeans with double loops.
The fly is buttoned with stud buttons, slower but necessarily more durable in use than an average zip. We also bound the inside edges of the fly to prevent fraying.
So that your pockets don't let go anytime soon either, you will find:
- a thick 100% cotton lining inside the front pockets,
- the same lining at the bottom of the rear pockets, which will prevent the appearance of holes,
- rivets visible at the front and hidden at the back which will prevent you from tearing them off easily,
- the famous bartack seams which reinforce the upper corners of the rear pockets.
If you're used to the crotch blowout, just make sure it doesn't squeeze your thighs when you try it on. Its cut is designed to leave space, which limits the effects of abrasion.
Speaking of abrasion, it's time to take stock of the robustness and density of the materials:
- 500 gr/m2 for our hoodies and 460 gr/m2 for our sweatshirts, for the wear on you and over time,
- 155gr/m2 for our Cascais shirt, moderate thickness,
- 324g/m2 for our Princeton chinos, whose particularly dense Bedford Cord fabric is renowned and used for its durability. It is even used to reinforce furniture and riding breeches!
- 510gr/m2 (15oz) for our raw Nîmes jeans, so you can sand it well and reveal its patina.
And of course, everything is assembled by specialized workshops in Europe that we have chosen for the quality of their work.
By taking care of them, and unless the dictatorship of an AI calls into question the timelessness of chinos or a sweatshirt, we sincerely hope that you will have fun with these basics for many years. In any case, our product team did its best to give them every chance and, who knows, so that they might one day become your favorite vintage pieces!
How can you get our new products?
Visit our e-shop and our stores now!