This Saturday, October 17, we offer you:
- Cavalry twill pleated chinos . Robust fabric with vintage charm
- Versatile workwear boots . To slip into all styles
- Two wool sweaters with a brushed effect. In the direction of the hair
- Four speckled Donegal knit hats. Final touch of texture for your outfits
- A jacket in prestigious deer leather . A story of exceptional know-how
Every day, a new piece will be revealed to you. An advent calendar, ahead of time.
We're sending in the cavalry today, with our first pleated chinos.
"I get up at 6:30 am.
This morning I have an appointment with an old lady. I walk slowly outside. It must be said that I am carrying around a huge suitcase and four bags of hanging clothes. “Work in fashion”, they said, the glam, the glitter you will have everything.
I arrive by taxi in front of a parking lot. The sky is about to fall on me. So I flee underground with all my gear. Suddenly I see her. The old lady is there. Inside a luminous cavity. Gorgeous. She is sparkling. Its color is an elegant burgundy, its four wheels have a very old-fashioned white stripe and what shapes! It drives me crazy that we no longer find these kinds of cars on the street and that they are now hiding in the underbelly of parking lots. I wipe away a tear.
Driving in Paris, I tame the beast. The glances of passers-by ricochet off the 204 from 1971. I act like a confident guy. The truth is that I concentrate on shifting gears well. People say nice things to me when I stop at a red light. I pretend it's mine. Unscrupulous."
" With Francesc, our artistic director, and Karine, our hairdresser/makeup artist, we leave Paris. On the highway at 80 km/h. The other motorists don't blame me, the car is beautiful. It just goes to show that beauty can soften even the most heated minds The shooting takes place around BĂ©themont-la-ForĂŞt, in Val-d'Oise.
" For this shoot, I'm the one who's going to play the model. Francesc thinks I have a retro look with my mustache and my first-in-class look. It fits the mood. I'm the guy who goes for a trip to the countryside with his classic car. Give me 10 more years and I will indeed be this guy. The idea is also to seek out the colors of autumn, to bathe in reality. authentic, stand in front of the majestic trees, run in the fields, breathe the air.
Our clothes of the month are of this caliber. There is the mustard of the sweater which echoes the yellow of the autumn leaves. There is the deer leather which stands out nicely against the green. There are beiges which recall fields and paths."
"The day goes like this: we find a place we like, I change in the middle of nature, we shoot, we pack, we run away, we find another place and so on. It's raining, we take the opportunity to go eat. And we get back to work.
One day, 12 outfits and the feeling of having accomplished something worthwhile. But you are our only judges.
In the evening, I reluctantly return the car to its owner. When I get home I aim for the bed, with good heart. When my body hits the mattress I'm asleep."
- Jordan, editor, stylist, model, clothing weaver, salesman, after-sales service manager, accountant, cook and office chair assembler at BonneGueule
Our pleated chinos
Presented at length
Robust Cavalry twill
For the vintage touch
It all starts from a desire.
The desire to tackle a material still unexplored here: cavalry twill
It is a fabric originally used by British cavalry officers for its density which makes it particularly resistant to tension and abrasion.
It is recognizable by its famous double-diagonals which give it this attractive relief:
We love this military heritage aesthetic and we find that its vintage side exudes something. So we set out to conquer our twill cavalry.
"Cavalry twill, I want you for BonneGueule Army". BonneGueule hat, shirt and cardigan . Brut Clothing vintage jacket and Asahi sneakers.
We first tried wool, but found that it was too soft and lacked hold. For the moment, we are leaning towards cotton.
We then take a look at what our Japanese suppliers offer. More expensive in terms of know-how, their fabrics usually stand out from European materials with beautiful textures. But this time, it is felt that they are not doing enough to justify the price difference. We also want to stay within the price range of our chinos whose accessibility you appreciate.
We therefore turn to the origins of the fabric: England, known for its mastery of cavalry twill.
Our chosen one is Brisbane Moss.
Brisbane Moss, century-old specialist
Cavalry twill is his cup of tea
Yorkshire, England. Mid-19th century.
The Moss brothers, weavers and processors of velvet and cotton moleskins, noticed some upheavals in their neighborhood.
A competitor, the English Velvet Cord Dyeing Company, has just arrived and bought several dyeing companies. Fear of a monopoly arose, so the Moss brothers joined forces with several manufacturers to form the English Fustian Manufacturing Company Ltd.
EFMC expands and vertically integrates spinning, weaving and garment assembly companies.
At the beginning of the 1980s, the demand for velvet and moleskin was high and international competition was fierce. Part of the group is forced to close down. Family firms Brisbane Moss and Moss Brothers Dyers
Unity is once again strength and the alliance works. She is building an international reputation. In 2004, she received the Queens Award for Export in the presence of Queen Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace. Low (bowler) hat.
This story reminds us that the textile industry is cruel and that it is not easy to evolve in it. Especially in the last century. It's also interesting to see how these companies were able to come together to cope and become a reference today. Particularly on traditional and robust cotton fabrics, a specialty of the house since its origins: velvet, moleskine... and cavalry twill!
Brisbane Moss is therefore a sure bet in this area. From its 100 years of experience, the company knows perfectly all the technical specificities that make a good cavalry twill and the recipe for ours has not changed for several decades.
To remain competitive, it shares its valuable specifications with several partners around the world where it has its fabrics manufactured. To make our cavalry twill, Brisbane Moss works with a manufacturer in Turkey that it selected for its rigor several years ago.
At Brisbane Moss, we find a 100% cotton twill
It is simple, authentic and obviously solid. The proof ? We have it, with a bonus technique course.
To test the resistance of a fabric to abrasion, manufacturers use the Martindale method: on a machine, an abrasive disk rotates rapidly to subject the sample to significant friction.
The result of this test is simply the number of turns after which a first thread has torn.
Our twill cavalry achieved a result of around 20,000 rounds.
For the record, in the furniture industry which commonly takes this test as a reference, we are starting to enter the category of "very intensive use fabrics" for public places or communities.
But since we're not talking about a cavalry twill sofa, here's a closer comparison: our cotton/elastane chinos from Velcorex average 10,000 turns in the Martingale test.
Jordan can ride his 53 horses as much as he wants.
So much for robustness. Now, let's talk flexibility: to soften the hand and ensure comfort when worn, we wash everything.
He can therefore also roam on foot as much as he wants.
Concerning the thickness, we plead guilty because a tradition was hindered: initially, Calvary twill is very thick. For ours, we prefer an average weight of 314 grams per square meter. But we have a motive, or rather two: to be able to wear it in mid-season as well as in winter and - once again - guarantee its comfort.
And then we catch up on its color: a beige which echoes its military origin, as if we had found it in a surplus.
Subtly straight cut
Just right
We combined this desire to explore cavalry twill with yours: that of seeing chinos with a straighter cut.
It is now done but with moderation. A slightly straight leg and tightened at the bottom.
It injects a dose of relaxation while defining your silhouette and its different volume allows you to vary the pleasures.
BonneGueule overshirt, shirt and t-shirt . New BonneGueule hat available Saturday October 17. Converse sneakers.
Front darts
For an advanced style
To take these chinos further, we embellished them with two pleats at the front.
It's an extra touch of elegance added to the tailoring art that we like to see on casual pants and which gives more to see.
Worked finishes
Quality is in the details
As always, our specialized workshop in Romania did not do things by halves:
- A capuchin button placket. Elegant and effective for good support.
-
Horn buttons
with Ascolite attachment. A twisting technique involving elastic thread for added strength
- Piped pockets at the back. Simple and refined
- Our eternal zip hidden in a front pocket. Goodbye to the stress of lost keys
- A V for ease, for ease. Especially after a calzone
- A trim interior
. We're talking about die-hards
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Size |
b. Half thigh |
vs. Leg length below waistband |
d. Leg opening |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 42 | 36 | 29.1 | 102 | 16.3 |
| 44 | 38 | 30.3 | 102 | 16.8 |
| 46 | 40 | 31.5 | 103 | 17.3 |
| 48 | 42 | 32.7 | 103 | 17.8 |
| 50 | 44 | 33.9 | 104 | 18.3 |
| 52 | 46 | 35.1 | 104 | 18.8 |
| 54 | 48 | 36.3 | 105 | 19.3 |
To be continued
In the next episode...
Tomorrow, Benoît will present our new boots to you and he has a lot to tell you.
In the meantime, remember to tell us what you think of our chinos and remember that there are no stupid questions. As dear Albert said.
It happens at the bottom, in the comments area.
How to get our new products?
Visit our e-shop and in our stores in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux .
