In November 2017, we decided to release a special rain piece:
- a wool fabric exterior
- with a high-tech breathable and waterproof membrane, from the Swiss Schoeller
- all with an urban, refined and modern design
You are very sensitive to this piece which is so versatile and so technical at the same time!
Very quickly, this raincoat was a success, with some rave comments:
Having worn it extensively, Geoffrey wanted to share his feedback on this piece:
I wore this raincoat for about two years, in fall gusts, slight winter chills, and big spring draughts. Is it windproof? Is it completely waterproof? Are we still breathing well? What if it could also keep you a little warm? Yes, all of that at once. It's truly multi-use outerwear: the only two things it doesn't do are really polar cold (-5°C and lower), and delicious cappuccinos.
But what surprises me most is not its technical performance (and yet, there are things to talk about), but rather its style.
Because from the outside, we don't realize anything. The technicality is completely hidden.
Besides, I would have really liked to see the reverse side of this incredible material appear somewhere inside the raincoat: like a vinyl film perforated with thousands of small holes, smaller than a micrometer. Because the contrast between this woolen cloth exterior and this membrane of the future inside is stunning.
In the end, it was a piece that I really got attached to. And if I had to choose ten of our clothes to populate the BonneGueule pantheon, it would certainly have its place!
Geoffrey will be even better prepared to face the next showers! Add to that our Ventile cap which provides extra protection, and you'll never have to worry about the rain again.
Taking this piece even further
Don't rest on what you've learned!
We therefore wanted to update it, modifying what could be improved.
And above all, this raincoat was missing something big to make it THE ultimate rain piece: the famous welded seams (we'll come back to that).
(and an even improved hood)
The specifications of this "V2" piece have not changed, it is still a question of having a beautiful, functional, urban rain garment, and with an emphasis on two particular points:
- a comfortable cut on the shoulders, even when wearing a blazer . Something sometimes complicated with a classic coat with well-defined shoulders...
- and a material that is sufficiently breathable - so as not to die of heat as soon as you get on public transport - but which must nevertheless protect you from the elements .
New: we have it available in two colors, an anthracite gray and a navy blue.
Let's see how we arrived at this result...
The material: c_change™ merino from Schoeller
The combination of merino wool with a high-tech membrane
It is THIS fabric that has made this piece successful, because it perfectly symbolizes what we love: a formidable hidden technicality, and a unique exterior appearance thanks to the wool.
We are therefore on a laminated material, that is to say that it is made up of two layers laminated together by passing them through large cylinders:
- outside : merino wool mixed with 20% polyester to provide robustness, chosen for its insulating qualities, and to ensure consistency with the c_change™ laminated membrane.
- inside : the c_change™ membrane, a new generation polymer which lets water vapor pass on a microscopic scale, but stops liquids.
Which ultimately gives a mixture of 71% merino wool, 18% polyester, 11% polyurethane .
A rare composition for a very natural result
When I discovered this material, the presence of wool intrigued me, because it is a rare material in technical fabrics.
It has two advantages here:
- offer the room all the properties of merino wool : thermal insulation, hydrophobic material, does not absorb odors, does not crease...
- and above all, give a natural look to the material!
A wool that hides its game well
Thanks to the texture of the wool, this raincoat has an elegant and timeless appearance . It also brings originality, since merino is rarely – if ever – used for rain clothing.
And color is full of nuances. We have a pretty heather that gives relief to the piece:
Anthracite version…
Navy blue version…
Very clearly, it is visually impossible to know that it is a technical material !
All you see is a beautiful woolen cloth.
“Isn’t the material too thick for a raincoat?”
No, don’t worry.
Although the appearance gives the impression that it is a classic woolen coat cloth, it is quite different.
In terms of thickness, we are much closer to the feeling of our softshell or any other raincoat than an average coat. You should store this piece alongside a trench or mac, not a wool coat.
For your information, the material has a weight of 280g/m² and a fluid drape.
Finally, one last heart-warming detail: Schoeller certifies that the merino wool used comes from a farm that does not practice mulesing.
Schoeller's c_change membrane
Where the magic happens
A material inspired by nature
As with V1, I am very happy to be able to use the c_change™ membrane, which is one of the "star" products from Schoeller, this Swiss supplier specializing in high-end and high-performance technical fabrics.
Its operation is rather atypical...
Most other membranes rely on a principle of pores: large enough to let perspiration escape but small enough to prevent a drop of rain from entering.
But the c_change™ draws its inspiration from a... pine cone.
Just like it, depending on the temperature, the pores of c_change™ expand or retract .
Watch this video which explains how it works:
An active membrane that adapts to temperature and humidity
Schoeller specifies that the membrane reacts not only to temperature, but also to body humidity . How ? Industrial secret...
In fact, when the wearer's body heats up, the membrane opens so that heat and perspiration escape more easily.
And when the temperature drops, the pores shrink , preventing heat loss.
As a result, this gives a membrane that truly adapts to the climatic conditions and the activity of its wearer.
Schoeller's pictograms on the properties of c_change.
But as usual with manufacturers of technical materials, their descriptions give the impression of being faced with the eighth wonder textile of the world.
So I just had to form my own opinion! Really, what does that give?
My opinion on technical wool with c_change™ membrane
Tested like Benoit
A material that “keeps its promises”
Before marketing V1, I started my investigation by looking for opinions on this subject.
It is clearly not as popular as Gore-Tex™ due to its price, but the feedback is very enthusiastic :
The return of Road.cc (the BonneGueule of cycling) which is testing a Mission Workshop jacket in exchange :
[The c_change™] looks impressive and delivers what it promises. I would go even further and say that it is truly incredible. I'm the type of person who sweats a lot when I ride my bike.
The return of "Feed the habit", an outdoor site, which tests a hiking jacket from the Westcomb brand :
Compared to competing materials (eVent, Polartec NeoShell, Gore-Tex Active), Schoeller c_change wool works like a sieve. Needless to say, she breathes incredibly well.
This week I had to shovel snow, and I had further proof of its breathability. No sweat condensation inside, except on the sealed seams.
In terms of rain resistance, all the tests I carried out in wet weather (intense rain, snow) proved very pleasant total waterproofing.
Rather reassuring... As an indication, here are some brands using Schoeller c_change™: Mission Workshop
So much for what is being said about c_change™. Then, still before the marketing of V1, I moved on to testing the prototypes…
The urban jungle test
A windproof room
We will start with a simple functionality to test: the ability to protect from the wind.
I had a nice glimpse of it one winter Sunday, leaving Montparnasse station. It was around 10°C and, as usual in this corner of Paris, it was very windy. I only wore a denim shirt under my raincoat...
Well, the combination of merino and membrane provided a perfect wind barrier. I didn't even need to wear a mesh underneath that day.
Thanks to the merino coupled with the c_change™ membrane, you will be effectively protected from the wind. And it's not Geoffrey who will say the opposite! BonneGueule hat, pants, hoodie and sneakers.
A raincoat that keeps you warm
I also wore the raincoat with a blazer, when it was 5°C. I was neither too hot nor too cold.
The “thermal versatility” of this piece surprises me a lot. I didn't think I could wear it in such low temperatures. Given its lightness, I think I'll be as comfortable there as in spring!
Welded seams: the great novelty for total waterproofing
From enemy, rain becomes your friend
The V1 did not have welded seams, we were finally able to repair this deficiency!
As a reminder, welded seams have a crucial role: they “seal” the seams and prevent water from entering through the holes left by the needles when assembling the part.
In fact, it looks like an adhesive strip that is applied to each seam on the inside of the garment. They are hidden by the lining, and are not visible.
It doesn't seem like much to do, but it is in fact a long and technical operation, which requires specialized machines (therefore an investment), and very experienced workers. And so obviously, this has a price.
This is what a welded seam looks like, under the lining. Thanks to it, water cannot infiltrate.
It is therefore with great pride that I can now say: this raincoat is completely waterproof and therefore symbolizes our vision of the ultimate raincoat.
A removable and discreet hood
A raincoat without a hood is not a raincoat
Macs and other trench coats have always been a strange paradox for me: why call these pieces rain gear... when they don't protect the head?
I of course understand that a garment without a hood is more elegant (we lose the "sportswear" connotation), but still...
So, I wanted to bring together the best of both worlds.
So there is a hood, but it can easily be removed with a zip.
And when the raincoat is without a hood, the zip is completely invisible, hidden by the collar.
Once the hood is removed, and the collar is placed normally, you have a classic raincoat! BonneGueule shirt , t-shirt , jeans and sneakers .
Here is the zip that holds your hood.
To solve the thorny question "Should I hold my hood in my hand all day when I take it off?" , we placed a large interior pocket at the bottom of the raincoat. It allows you to store the folded hood.
The inside of the garment, with the two zipped pockets and the large “envelope” pocket.
A cut adapted to tailoring pieces
Wearing a blazer with a raincoat should always be comfortable
So I really thought about it so that you can wear a layer underneath
But that doesn't mean the cut is loose, far from it! Let's just say that we haven't embarked on an endless bending race.
In terms of length, it reaches mid-thigh: perfect for your casual outfits , with sneakers for example
As for the finishes?
Update in progress
I already told you about the hood and the pocket to store it. Anyway, here's what you need to know:
A brand new wrist tightening system
No pressure or velcro here, but a completely new tightening system which has several advantages:
- unlike velcro, it does not cling to your other clothes
- unlike snap buttons, it allows much more precise adjustment
- it is a system that does not fear rain or snow (since used on ski clothing)
This system allows you to finely adjust the tightness of the wrist, without getting waterlogged when it rains.
Ventilation eyelets under the armpits
In the city, it is common to alternate between the exterior and interior of a store where it is warmer. To properly manage these heat changes, we placed ventilation grommets under the arms to improve the ventilation of the room.
Two interior zipped pockets
There is no question of you losing your personal belongings. Each pocket is well secured.
Your belongings won't go to waste, we promise.
A double YKK zip at the front
On long pieces, I find the double slider essential. Especially when you're sitting or if, like me, you have wide hips compared to your height. In this case, I am very happy to be able to add ease by opening the bottom zip .
A double zip is more comfortable on a long piece: it makes closing easier and allows you to play on ease.
How to wear this raincoat?
Elegant or casual: you choose
With a wool overshirt
Our famous wool overshirt is a perfect complement, and our gray joggers bridge the light color of the overshirt and the dark color of the raincoat.
Hat , overshirt , long-sleeved t-shirt and BonneGueule pants .
With joggers and a hoodie
Since it is a raincoat with a clean design, it is easy to take it to several worlds. Here, the blue wool joggers echo both the material of the raincoat and the casual side of the hoodie, also in wool.
And because wool is practical and beautiful, Geoffrey is wearing our long-sleeved merino wool t-shirt, the perfect winter companion!
With camel chinos
With a color like navy blue, you can easily match it with camel/cream/terracotta tones. The scarf plays an important role here, with a strong touch of color, and of the same intensity as the raincoat.
With a blazer
We could have put you in a classic suit outfit, but we wanted to relax the gray blazer with a more casual shirt, white pants (an underestimated piece in winter) and sneakers.
Blazer , shirt , sneakers , Shirt , t-shirt , jeans and BonneGueule sneakers . and BonneGueule pants .
With a denim shirt
When you have a raincoat against the rain, why not wear water-resistant sneakers? It's done with our Ventile sneakers. Sneakers that go very well with the color of the jeans. The denim shirt bridges the color gap between raincoat and jeans.
About the price of this part
It is difficult to compare prices as it is a unique piece. Generally speaking, rain gear, with welded seams, and an urban design under €400 are extremely rare.
And at this price, you have an exterior material without shine, with a “plastic” appearance. As soon as you want a beautiful material, with a technical membrane, AND an urban design AND welded seams, prices explode: it is not uncommon to have rain gear for more than €700, or even much more, at beyond €1000.
Even if this raincoat is now part of this quality range, it will be much more accessible: it will barely cost more than €400 for a piece that would be worth €700 - €800 from a "normal" brand.
How to get our new raincoat?
Visit our e-shop and in our stores in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux ..
