But what a week! But what a welcome you gave to our noragi with Borali, our henley, shirt and cargo!
Here's a quick recap of what happened during this very busy launch week:
- Presentation article of our noragi in collaboration with Borali : published ✅ (and don't forget to watch the two videos of the article!)
- Live Instagram with Boras to tell you about this collaboration: it’s done ✅
- Presentation of the henley (finally!), our new chambray shirt and cargo pants : check ✅
So we are left with:
- Friday May 29 : #LeatherPassion as we finally present our derbies in very sturdy leather and our belt with vegetable-tanned leather (this is the article you are reading)
- Friday May 29 at 6 p.m .: I will still be live on Insta to answer all your questions about all the pieces from this launch
⚠️See the end of the article to find out the availability of each piece from this launch in our stores.⚠️
Let's go for the derbies!
During the last few weeks of confinement, many of you wanted to know more about this new pair of shoes!
So why this pair of derbies?
Unusual thing in the design of this shoe: everything started from the sole , this famous Vibram (I'll explain everything further), so comfortable and pleasant.
From there, we wanted to create a shoe that was not a sneaker, designed for comfortable walks and very versatile.
Of course, it's perhaps not the formal derby to go to work at Defense. But I wanted a shoe without the hassle, that you can take with you without thinking, while still having personality, for a weekend in the city, in the countryside or by the sea.
We needed a pair that would be comfortable everywhere!
I also wanted a design that goes well with casual outfits , typically those where you think you can only wear sneakers.
This pair should be easy to wear with a t-shirt and slightly loose chinos, as well as with fitted jeans and an oxford shirt.
But above all, I wanted a pair designed to last over time , with robust materials and assembly, easy to resole if necessary.
A legendary sole from Vibram
As I told you, it was this sole that was the starting point.
Those who love American workwear, vintage or ametora immediately recognized its characteristic silhouette.
Indeed, in the same way that the Margom sole is a must for high-end sneakers, this Vibram sole is a great classic for "heritage" brands such as Red Wings, Wesco, Chippewa, Yuketen, Viberg, Standard Fair, Grant Stone, White's, Thorogood, Rancourt, etc. As for European brands, Grenson who used it a lot.
To help you understand why these insoles are so popular, let me introduce the history of Vibram.
It is this sole that helps give a real visual signature to these shoes.
The history of Vibram in 60 seconds
It all started in 1937, in Italy, by a mountaineer named Vitale Bram ani (you understand where the name of the brand comes from).
And it is a tragic event which will precipitate the creation of Vibram.
Two years earlier, Bramani lost six friends in a mountain accident. He was convinced that this was partly due to the poor quality of the soles of the time, which were too slippery for the terrain.
He promised to design reliable, robust soles with very good traction, at a time when mountaineering shoes had a leather sole with nails stuck into it.
He created the Carrarmato sole, which laid the foundations for the “commando” type soles we know today.
The Carrarmato sole from Vibram, where it all began…
He was helped by Mr. Pirelli himself, the great Italian tire manufacturer, to have rubber that was durable and reliable on a wide variety of terrains.
Vibram's heyday came in 1954, when the summit of K2 — a mountain reputedly more difficult than Everest — was reached for the first time by an Italian team wearing Vibram soles.
The shoes that made it possible to conquer K2, they have a hell of a style!
Ten years later, Vibram entered the American market, and many American outdoor and workwear brands appreciated the robustness and traction quality of these soles.
The Christy model in Vibram Morflex
The Vibram sole where it all started!
Among Vibram soles, the Christy is one of the most famous, widely popularized by Red Wings in particular.
It was first designed for industrial uses, for hard factory floors, where comfort is essential when you stand for 8 hours.
For this, Vibram uses one of its secret recipes: Vibram Morflex, a “homemade” rubber mixture which makes it possible to lighten the sole without hindering its durability.
Another point: since the grooves are shallow, there is no risk of carrying gravel or mud during your wanderings. For example, this is a very useful property for those who work with hot asphalt and who do not want to get any stuck under their sole.
Once you've tasted Vibram, it's hard to do without it!
The absence of a raised heel is also desired: this avoids "snagging" the shoe by tripping over a protruding rivet.
And it doesn't leave marks on the floors!
The Christy is therefore an excellent mix of abrasion resistance, lightness and comfort .
If the soleplate ever gets dirty and darkens, know that it is easy to clean .
And as I wanted a shoe that would allow you to walk a whole day to visit a city, whether on the cobblestones of an old alley, or the sidewalks of a concrete jungle, you can imagine that this sole was ready for use. !
The absence of a heel makes the shoe more secure and comfortable.
What lifespan does this sole have?
Ah, here's the info where brands avoid getting wet!
They don't want to take risks and I understand them because it's always complicated to estimate.
It depends on many factors: your weight
But be aware that in the case of intensive wear, I estimate that you will need between 3 to 5 years before considering resoling. And then you will be ready for a new cycle again!
I hold this fork because of the numerous testimonials that I have been able to glean on the durability of a Christy mounted on Red Wings.
You have long walks ahead of you before having to change the Vibram sole!
For resoling, Vibram displays Vibram Academy specializing in this type of task!
That said, even with such properties, I strongly advise against wearing your shoes two days in a row.
(and this is the case for all your leather shoes, whatever the brand and price range)
Indeed, the moisture present in the insole, in the leather of the lining and the insole, needs to evacuate. Because if it persists, it can weaken the interior components (as if they were "macerating" without ever drying).
Well then, if it's your only pair of shoes for a long weekend it's not dramatic, nothing will happen, but weeks of daily wear, without stopping, is not good for durability of your shoe.
A sturdy rough out “terracotta” leather from Stead
If you have our pair of Chelsea boots, you know that we really appreciate the English tannery Stead .
It is an English tannery very famous for suede and rough out leathers, because they are beautiful and resistant to the elements. Moreover, on most brands of vintage/workwear shoes, you can be 90% sure that it is Stead leather if it is suede leather.
What is the "rough out" leather of these derbies?
It's very simple: it's a leather of which we use the "interior" side (the flesh side) for the exterior of the shoe. It is necessary to use skins 2 or 3 times older than those used for "normal" leather.
This results in thicker, more durable leather.
But that's not all ! When tanning it, we will use oil and fat to make it even more resistant to water.
As for the color, it's a color that we developed with them , expressly for this model. Because we wanted to move away from camel or brown tones.
The color of this leather will change over time, it will darken slightly with your numerous wears.
And we found that this shade brought a nice touch of color to an outfit, while blending harmoniously with olive, indigo, beige, or ecru tones .
It is a leather that has many advantages:
- it hardly takes any creases when walking
- it patinates very nicely over time
- it resists weather very well and protects you from the rain, no worries if your shoes take a few drops, just let the leather dry
- it is very strong, because it is a dense and thick leather
In terms of maintenance, there is not much to do , a little brushing from time to time, special oil for special occasions, and nothing more is needed!
A round and comfortable shape
A round shape, very gentle on your feet!
Since we had chosen a very comfortable sole, it was important for us to have a shape that was pleasant for the foot and for long walks.
The front of the shoe is therefore very rounded, to avoid compressing your toes.
This shape combined with the Vibram sole gives a comfortable shoe from the first wear.
This rounded shape is very suitable for casual outfits.
It also gives a very relaxed line that I like!
And I find that this roundness gives timelessness to the form, as if it had been created several decades ago.
A sewn sandal made in Italy
The double stitched sandal, simple and robust assembly!
You will not have missed this: there is a double stitchdown on this shoe, which runs all the way along the sole. In addition to being a finish with real visual appeal, it is also a robust seam that allows for easy resoling.
Some enthusiasts claim that this is a more comfortable type of mounting in terms of the width of the foot, because it allows the foot to occupy more space. Personally, I find this shoe very comfortable :)
Now let's move on to our new belt!
Our Tärnsjö Garveri leather belt made in France
It's been a long time since we released belts!
It was therefore time to offer a belt made in France , in leather from a very beautiful tannery, to wear with all our pants.
Small particularity, it is a “vegetable tanned” leather.
Before explaining to you why we chose leather from Tärnsjö, let me explain to you what vegetable tanning is…
Vegetable tanning, vegetable leather, or natural leather?
There are several expressions used to designate vegetable-tanned leather and this can create confusion.
Please note, “vegetable leather” does not necessarily mean leather from trees or plants. Most of the time, it refers to leather of animal origin with vegetable tanning .
We can also find the expression "natural leather" to refer to vegetable-tanned leather.
It is a belt whose color will change as it ages.
What is vegetable tanning?
It is a type of tanning that dates back to the dawn of time and which answers a very down-to-earth question: how to prevent leather from decomposing?
To make leather rot-proof, tannins and antioxidants have long been used, the role of which will be to stabilize and preserve the leather over time.
Concretely, we will immerse the leather in a liquid which contains tannins from bark of all kinds: oak, hazel, etc. And each tannery (which practices vegetable tanning) has its own secret recipe.
With industrialization, it is a type of tanning that has been abandoned (Tärnsjö states that 5% of tanneries in the world still practice vegetable tanning) for several reasons:
- it is much longer than modern tanning techniques
- highly qualified workers are needed in vegetable tanning
- it is a leather that develops a patina and whose color changes over time, which can intimidate completely novice customers.
The drying stage. Depending on the desired result, the leather can be heated with hot air or in motion.
Vegetable tanning full of charm
But those who have already experienced the use of vegetable-tanned leather know all the charm that comes from it:
- the patina!
- that inimitable smell of leather
- this feeling of having very durable leather over time
- a “natural” hand with character
- a very nice vintage appearance
The thickness of the leathers is continually measured throughout production to ensure that the customer's needs are met.
It is a leather that will be marked by your daily life and become more and more beautiful. Changing color does not change its resistance over time, don't worry about that!
The more you patina this leather, the “warmer” and more intense the color will become.
Why don't we use vegetable-tanned leather for shoes or jackets?
It is a leather that reacts a lot to water. Not that it degrades, but the color can change a lot if it is regularly exposed to water like a pair of shoes or a jacket.
That said, I remind you that a lot of high-end saddlery is made of vegetable-tanned leather and that the patina of a bridle that has been exposed to the rain several times, which has been carefully greased afterwards, is very appreciated by certain people. riders.
This is why brands that venture into offering vegetable-tanned leather shoes are very rare and reserved for an audience of experienced enthusiasts. Let us cite the Hender Scheme brand, the best known of all, which reproduces iconic sneakers, but whose high price can deter the most adventurous.
This is why vegetable tanned leather is often reserved for small leather goods, because there is little chance that you will often swim with your belt on, or that you will walk in the rain with your wallet on. hand.
The Tärnsjö Garveri tannery: a reference in vegetable tanning
I am very suspicious when we say that someone offers the best material in the world, but here, I am not afraid to say that Tärnsjö is one of the most renowned tanneries for vegetable leather, in addition to be very eco-responsible.
It's a tannery with a lot of experience, having existed for over 140 years!
To find out more about the tanning process, I invite you to go to the dedicated page of the richly illustrated Tärnsjö site (and this allows me to maintain a “decent” article length).
The finishing stage, where each tannery has its industrial secret, to have a deep and subtle color.
Tärnsjö and the environment
Without getting into clichés, I would like to remind you that Tärnsjö is a Swedish tannery, and it is therefore not surprising to see Tärnsjö very involved in environmental issues. She took the subject seriously in 1988.
It is also one of the very rare tanneries in the world to be Organic 100 certified . It is a certification which guarantees the presence of products of organic origin.
All the leathers used by Tärnsjö come from Sweden, as close as possible to the tannery when practical. The skins come only from the meat industry.
Moreover, each batch of skins is marked with a unique number in order to have traceability back to the breeding farm.
In addition, the water used for tanning is 100% recycled into drinking water. Indeed, since there are only tannins and colorings, it is water that can easily be made suitable for consumption. The process would be much more complicated with chrome tanning.
A hazelnut color
This is a shade called "hazelnut", still from Tärnsjö, still vegetable tanned.
It too will patina nicely over time, darkening slightly.
A French manufacture
For these belts, we used a workshop in Normandy, whose main customers are luxury houses.
Moreover, for the anecdote, they were the ones who made Beyoncé's belts for one of her tours!
The buckle is made of zamac and comes from Italy.
Here is the inside of the belt unlined for more durability over time.
It is a belt that is unlined, which has two advantages:
- there is no need for stitching running all along the waistband, so it is a cleaner, more “raw” design
- and since there is no lining, there is no risk of it coming off! QED 😌
We are therefore proud to offer you this belt made in France in very beautiful vegetable-tanned leather.
With Covid-19, deliveries have been a little disrupted, and it is necessary to take stock.
Above all, all the pieces presented this week will be available on Saturday May 30, 2020 on the eshop , so you can order them without worries.
Only certain parts will be shipped a little later.
If we recap:
- the noragi: it will be shipped in the second week of June, we are working hard to have one piece per store so that you can see this fabric from another era.
- cargo pants: shipped around June 10, but each store will have a piece so you can see this beautiful Japanese fabric.
- the henley: shipping from June 20, but each store will have a set of sizes to touch and try
- the new chambray shirt: available in store on launch day
- the natural leather belt: idem.
- derbies: around 80% chance of having them in stores on Saturday. I will keep you informed during the traditional Instagram live on Friday evening at 6 p.m.
