Winter is an ideal season for blazers: you can easily wear wool without worrying about being too hot; you can swap the shirt for a sweater... but the problem is that you tend to limit yourself to somewhat flat tones.
And there, we can quickly find ourselves with a look that is certainly well executed, but lacking in color .
Last year, we offered you a light gray flannel blazer to break up this monotony. This time, we decided to go further. 😉
The new donegal blazer.
As usual, I armed myself with my pen and my Diet Coke to ask Alex all my questions. It makes me feel like a great interview reporter .
When I asked him why donegal, he replied:
Something new was needed, something different. With donegal, you play on the texture but also on the color... while remaining subtle. And Benoît fell in love with this material.
I tell you everything, here we go.
A (truly) unique material
Donegal refers to a specific type of wool, which is characterized in particular by a colorful “speckle” .
During our collaboration with Inis Meáin, a specialist in traditional Irish knitwear, we have already dealt extensively with donegal. If you want to know everything about this particular subject, it’s here .
As for the color, it's a very beautiful verdigris, rare but not fussy . The goal was for it to pair with blue or gray pants, whether jeans, a flannel model, or chinos for that matter.
From a distance, the blazer has a nuanced color, with a texture that catches the light nicely...
... Thanks to the structure of donegal and its small colored dots of wool, visible only if you look closely.
Thanks to donegal and its weight of 226gr/m2, you are sure not to feel cold . It's a wool from Botto, an Italian manufacturer that I'm going to present to you right after.
Important thing: there is 2% elastane! And as Ben says:
It's very pleasant when it comes to eating while leaning against a counter, for example.
I'll let him have the floor to explain his favorite part to you.
Why donegal? (by Benoît)
As you may have noticed, I don't like completely smooth and plain wools for blazers. They have that I-took-my-suit-jacket-as-a-blazer-hoping-it-would-happen look . This is why our first blazer was a wool mesh and the second, a flannel.
Taken with confidence by your feedback, we wanted to go further, with an even more “graphic” fabric . I've had donegal in mind for a while (which actually inspired my thoughts for our cardigan with Inis Meáin).
Except that with an English Donegal, in blazer weight, I found the look too massive and Gentleman Farmer . It's heavy and robust but it lacks fluidity, the result is too "fixed". Rather annoying for a piece that I wanted to be casual!
I find the English donegal blazers too chunky, I wanted to move towards a finer finish.
It's the complete opposite of Italian materials, more focused on the finesse of the pattern and fluidity.
So we had to find the best of both worlds:
- The speckling and visual richness of donegal on the English side,
- The light hand and attention to detail of our transalpine friends.
That's where Alex showed me this magnificent donegal from Botto, with a perfectly balanced green and a very subtle colored speckling.
When I asked him why he waited so long to show me this material, he replied:
First, it’s the most expensive blazer material we’ve worked with. And then you know Benoît, they only have two clients in France, and they are two luxury houses in the “rue Montaigne” style…
So, I met Botto, a manufacturer I had never heard of...
Botto: a 140-year-old spinning mill
A family business...
It all started in 1876. Giuseppe Botto founded his spinning mill in Valle Mosso, a small town nestled at the foot of the Alps.
More discreet than many of its Italian counterparts, Botto has remained a family business (they are now in the fourth generation).
Original front of the spinning mill, “Botto Giuseppe et fils”. (Credits: Botto)
It is characterized in particular by its desire to mix heritage and technology, tradition and modernity :
- The spinning mill has equipped itself with cutting-edge production tools, developed specifically for it,
- Which she completes with numerous operations carried out by hand.
In addition to modern devices, Botto continues to integrate numerous manual operations into its process. (Credits: Botto)
...Who believes in true luxury
It is this blend and Botto’s expertise that have made him a preferred client of luxury houses. Most of its clients are major American, French and Japanese brands.
To use their words:
We recognize the value of timeless beauty and true quality to our discerning customers.
We agree.
They have come a long way since 1876!
The setting is splendid. (Credits: Botto)
Long and Alexandre just went to Botto's house, this way to discover their visit!
A fitted cut that's just right
We have kept our usual cut, it is the same as on our mesh blazer and the gray flannel blazer:
- It will highlight your build,
- Will highlight your silhouette,
- Without ever restricting yourself,
- For structured looks that have style.
The silhouette is elegantly emphasized. In terms of length, the piece had to be versatile. You can therefore wear it formal or casual.
The build is well defined.
A comfortable wool blazer
Light padding and high armhole
Faithful to Italian inspirations, the shoulders of the blazer feature light padding that remains natural. Likewise, the armhole is deliberately high to offer you greater freedom .
The shoulder is high, so you maintain your full range of movement. Also note the presence of the barchetta, the chest pocket which will accommodate the pouch . Its name, "little boat" in Italian, comes from its upwardly curved shape.
The power of elastane
Little new feature: we added 2% elastane (so 98% wool). In this way, the material gains extensibility and supports you in your movements . No cardboard effect!
Traditional semi-interlining for an optimal fit of the jacket
Interlining refers to the layer of material, sometimes composed of horsehair, which is inserted between the wool and the lining of the blazer. Its role is to provide hold to the jacket (everything is explained in this article ). To summarize, it's a bit like the skeleton of the jacket.
As usual, it is a semi-traditional covering .
This is the best compromise between quality and durability of the assembly, and price of the jacket (traditional interlining costs at least €600, if not €800 or €1000 in the majority of cases).
It is also semi-lined , which requires special care to ensure that each seam is neat. The lining is made of viscose, a material that imitates the properties of cotton. No sweating in sight!
A flying bib lining also requires that each seam on the inside be clean, there is no "hiding".
To a lesser extent, elastane also affects the hang, as does the weight of wool. From all this, we obtain a natural result, without being loose.
Careful finishes and manufacturing
Horn buttons
The buttons used are made of horn and cross-stitched for greater strength .
Purists will also be happy to find the kissing buttons. And to make it easier to alter the length of the sleeves , we kept the buttonholes closed. You know the drill. 😉
Each horn button is cross-stitched, ensuring a longer lifespan.
Practical and sturdy pockets
On the outside of the jacket you will find a pocket on each side. They have half-moon seams, always with the goal that the blazer lasts as long as possible!
The discreet half-moon seams reinforce the pockets.
Likewise, you will find a pocket on each side inside, cut directly into the fabric. In addition to being solid, it's also more beautiful!
Finally, you will find one last interior pocket, designed for your smartphone. It is deliberately placed below the bending line, so as not to unbalance the silhouette.
Interior pockets cut directly into the fabric...
... They also reinforced by half-moons.
Salt shakers that protect the armpits
Finally, we reinforced the armpits by adding salt shakers. Between friction and perspiration, these are areas that can wear out prematurely.
Salt shakers protect the armpits from wear and sweat.
Easy maintenance
He doesn't need a lot of attention! A visit to the dry cleaners once or three times a year (depending on your use) will be more than enough.
When you hang it on its hanger, remember to unbutton the blazer. Otherwise, you will exert tension: this is the best way to kill the padding...
How to choose your size ?
The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size !
How to wear a donegal wool blazer?
Very smart, Luca relies on the English origins of Donegal to build his look. Between the blazer, the color palette used (notably mustard) and the derby-style ankle boots with flowered tips, we sense English "countryside" influences. He goes so far as to choose a paisley patterned pocket but keeps a cutaway collar for the shirt, Italy obliges. (Howard's shirt, Boggi tie, Six & Sept fine knit cardigan, SuitSupply clutch, BonneGueule flannel pants , Meermin derby)
Now focusing on style contrasts, he combines the blazer with a chambray shirt, raw jeans and boots. Without the blazer, the outfit would have more workwear accents: it therefore gives it a more dressy dimension. The whole thing is effective without being difficult, it's the kind of association that you already know and master very well. (Louis Purple chambray shirt, Mr. Porter clutch, BonneGueule jeans - Japan Line , Meermin boots)
In the same vein, Eric chooses to wear his blazer with raw jeans and sneakers. A great classic of casual chic , we find a very dressy top - reinforced by the pocket square - which is offset at the bottom. The sneakers option is all the more interesting as the shirt is formal: the contrasts are enriched! ( BonneGueule linen shirt , Howard's clutch, Edwin jeans, Converse sneakers - Jack Purcell)
The turtleneck/blazer combination works very well: it remains elegant, while being suitable for winter. In most cases, those of you wearing the suit to the office will be able to afford it without it being a problem. Also coupled with navy blue pants, the monochrome of the outfit visually elongates the silhouette. The blazer allows you to break this omnipresence of navy, while maintaining this dressy dimension. And to set things off, put on your white sneakers and a hat! (Six & Sept turtleneck, Howard's clutch, Commune de Paris pants, National Standard sneakers, Six & Sept hat)
We don't think often enough about simply wearing our blazer with a sweater! The influences are very different, we obtain a more "relaxed" look. Just make sure that the shoulder is natural enough to accompany the material in your movements (with large padding, you risk the "cardboard" effect). Generally, the best option for wearing white/cream pants - the easiest, anyway - is to go with a blue top. You are unlikely to go wrong with this color combination! (Inis Meáin sweater, SuitSupply clutch, Edwin pants, Crockett & Jones ankle boots)
Change your pants and you will radically change the spirit of the outfit. Here again, the blazer brings a form of elegance to an otherwise very casual outfit. If you want to push the cursor further towards "chic", simply swap the bleached jeans for raw ones. In terms of shoes, sneakers will be perfect, echoing the nonchalance that emanates from the look. The barefoot option only works at sea . (Inis Meáin sweater, Mr Porter clutch, Hèdus jeans)
You can also wear a blazer with a fancy sweater! The pitfall would be to opt for a model that is too formal, which we avoid here with the donegal and the patch pockets with flaps. Moreover, the speckling of the sweater is reminiscent of that of the blazer: the two pieces complement each other without it being garish. Same observation with the sneakers which, this time, use the colors. (Maille Marchand Drapier, BonneGueule jeans , BonneGueule x Buttero sneakers )
How to get the BonneGueule donegal blazer?
You can now find our blazer in Donegal on the eshop and in store.
