Following certain exchanges that I have seen here or elsewhere, I am taking advantage of this directory of major luxury brands to provide you with clarification on what we mean by Haute couture. Indeed, luxury or premium brands are commonly referred to as "haute couture brands"...
In reality, this term only applies in certain very specific cases , because you can imagine that it has been an AOC since 1945, at the time dependent on the Ministry of Industry.
Today, this designation is governed by the Haute Couture union chamber and is only obtained on the basis of demanding criteria: using a minimum surface area of fabric each year, having at least two workshops, carrying out the work by hand, produce a garment only once , etc.
Consequently, there are only around twenty brands authorized to use the Haute Couture appellation, such as Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Atelier Versace... Exit Givenchy, Lanvin, Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermès... As good - or not - as the quality of their clothes may be, they are not/no longer Haute Couture Houses!
The precious and coveted appellation...
This distinction is important because it has meaning... Believe me, beyond the marketing overexploitation of Haute Couture, luxury in its most chemically pure state survives through the virtuosity and mastery of "little hands" that we never see.
I highly recommend this video or this one , in which you will see the crazy creation of materials with unimaginable reliefs, or even embroidery of nameless complexity. I don't know if everyone can feel emotion when faced with such a degree of craftsmanship or if you have to be very passionate, in any case I find it more than magnificent, and will always remain admiring and immensely respectful of a such work.
Moreover, it has happened during certain fashion shows that certain pieces are sometimes referred to as “1,000-hour dresses” for example, in reference to the time spent by the embroiderers working on a piece.
In the HC, the embroideries are worked by hand and needle, bead by bead, thread by thread...
But for men? Well, frankly gentlemen, “we” are in trouble.
Of course, there is bespoke (real tailor-made, not the one where you simply adapt a pattern and which is in fact half-measure) for costumes, but that does not go as far, in my opinion, as Haute Couture in the invention of new things. Some designers like Eric Tibusch or Gustavo Lins include a few male models during their HC shows, but this is not always successful and remains residual on the scale of Luxury for Men.
That being said, with the rebalancing of sales between women's and men's PAPs, we can imagine that we will soon be entitled to it! Just to look... The real number of regular Haute Couture customers (mainly women) around the world would be between 40 and 1000. Some pieces easily exceed a hundred thousand euros, but beyond the price, everything the world cannot have access to Haute Couture: it is a privilege that must be earned! How ? The Houses systematically refuse to say it... But it remains a powerful driving force and a great fashion moment to observe for lovers of high craftsmanship.
Let's return to the guide, with this last part dedicated to the most influential labels among those who show!
Find the previous 2 parts here:
Melinda Gloss
The young French label is starting to be more distinguished in terms of style.
(Very) recently launched on the Parisian catwalks, Melinda Gloss is above all a high-end brand that is on the rise, building the loyalty of lovers of beautiful materials (poplins, chambray, etc.). Without frills, its collections only offer easy-to-wear pieces, which can be easily integrated into everyday outfits. You can go with your eyes closed, but don't overdo the simple basics...
Michael Kors
Relaxation but urban and chic influences for Michael Kors.
The American “designer” launched his brand around thirty years ago and is essential on the New York scene today. Her style is a combination of casual and chic, tending towards easy-to-wear “urban” clothing. Nothing to say aside, there is a real coherence and a very successful sophistication (numerous sleeveless vests quilted in wool, coats with pockets and leather details...).
In terms of production, however, the atmosphere is much more fast fashion than artisanal, the first women's line being the only one to offer Italian manufacturing for pieces costing several thousand dollars. You will find a quality far from corresponding to what we expect from a luxury brand despite correct cuts. Beautiful products in terms of style, but which have absolutely no soul and whose materials (especially the leathers) will not make the connoisseurs like you dream.
Missoni
The color work by knitting and meshing (not by piece dyeing) is exceptional.
In the 1950s, Ottavio and Rosita Missoni sought to create a new way of working with knitwear and experimented with new weaving and mesh techniques. Very quickly, the Missoni House established itself as a reference, using knitwear to make all kinds of clothes, from sweaters to coats, including jackets and pants.
The colored chevrons will quickly become a trademark: constantly reinterpreted and diverted, they will reveal a unique gift and know-how to create very colorful pieces of great technical skill. Missoni knits are essential for fans of beautiful knitwear and will bring both refinement and controlled eccentricity to your style.
Moncler
Basically, Moncler is a story that began in 1952 near Grenoble in the production of sleeping bags, which would transform into what we know as the down jacket. Today, Moncler is associated with the image of a styleless wanker who just wants to flaunt the logo of a super expensive jacket without exceptional quality. And the now Italian brand has caused a scandal in recent days following the disclosure of the monstrous methods used to skin geese of their feathers.
Boxing, fencing and cricket: all sports inspire Sir Browne
Moncler Gamme Bleue : under the direction of the crazy Thom Browne, this first line organizes fashion shows to present extraordinary collections. Often incredibly complex, they are always inspired by a sport (cycling, fencing, etc.) and give pride of place to very technical materials, imposing knits and always an offbeat style. Inaccessible in terms of style, the Gamme Bleue line is absolutely worth a detour for the quality of its pieces and the technical innovation that we see every season.
The material is brilliant, of course, but the details and general structures are successful!
Moncler Grenoble : Much more focused on functional clothing suitable for sports and skiing mainly, the interest of such a line lies in its innovative materials adapted to difficult conditions. In terms of design, we gain in sobriety.
A technical line more practical than aesthetic
Moncler W : this is a capsule containing a few models created for extreme conditions. The lining only in down (not mixed with feathers) is then perfectly justified, even if it would be risky to go to the North Pole only with this on your back!
Is it really useful to specify that the trash bag version should be banned?
Moncler : Diffusion line with only the name of luxury. It offers pieces that are not always well made, expensive, and systematically equipped with a logo. If the products are not of disastrous quality either, the relationship between the intrinsic value of the product and the price is completely unbalanced: a down jacket sold for €1000 only costs between €30 and €40 to manufacture !
Neil Barrett
The “arty” structure of Barett clothing is very identifiable.
Sir Barett comes from a family of master tailors from the south of England: a good start to becoming a designer. His passion for fashion will lead him to the avant-garde and to houses like Gucci then Prada, where he will develop the men's line and style.
Now working for his own brand, he wanted to set up his production in Italy, where he could find a workforce capable of producing his immaculate pieces with surgical precision. Often cerebral, his collections affirm a modern vision of the essentials of the men's wardrobe.
Paul Smith
Sir Smith embodies crazy British fashion. Behind their mythical phlegm and their caricatured tea time , Londoners such as Paul Smith promote a dress code of their own. For example, the designer is able to design a suit jacket by reversing the direction of the details: the collar facing downwards, pockets opening upwards... Having worked for a long time on a modernization of "kitsch", his signature is a set of irregular and colorful stripes. Several lines and several qualities here.
Houndstooth, lots of colors and unfailing composure: the Paul Smith style!
Paul Smith : the first line from the fashion shows, with beautiful materials and beautiful manufacturing, mainly made in the UK and Italy. The crazy spirit of the creator is expressed very intelligently and in a very colorful way. It refreshes men's fashion weeks with the unfortunate tendency to wallow in dull, shadowy colors!
Paul Smith London: sober, efficient.
Paul Smith London : it’s a “permanent” line that offers formalwear tinged with Paul Smith-style details. We also generally find good manufacturing quality.
Ps is the casual version of the Paul Smith spirit
PS by Paul Smith : it's a younger, more accessible second line, also with more logos... The designs are less stylish, although we find many prints and patterns dear to Paul Smith.
Denim a little too scruffy for my taste.
Paul Smith Jeans : this is the most “low” range line from the British house, with, like PS, random, sometimes mediocre quality. Not to mention the very common style, and not rigorous enough.
Prada
Surgeon's coat, tropical prints lost in the 70s or abuse of gingham: Miuccia Prada (and her twenty designers) will stop at nothing.
Basically, the Prada family manufactured luggage and other leather accessories. But when the aristocratic/communist/feminist (more for the image than for the convictions) Miuccia Prada gets involved, the small company will take another turn. The first designer to take inspiration from sport to create chic, she created a bag from nylon and parachute canvas, which would become a must-have a few years later.
Under the leadership of Neil Barett, the men's line will impose an offbeat universe, resolutely against the times and without any respect for the dress codes in force. Crazy prints, retro and vintage cuts, improbable materials, Prada collections are always spectacular and suitable for lovers of “oddities”. Very expensive, but with a quality that no longer keeps up, the products can bring a touch of sophistication and impertinence to your style.
Pringle of Scotland
The famous diamonds popularized by Pringle of Scotland.
Founded in 1815 in Scotland, the House distinguished itself as a pioneer in the weaving of wool and cashmere. We owe him in particular this famous diamond pattern that we all know, and which still remains present every season today. The brand is trying to modernize its image and its codes through more fanciful fashion shows.
Raf Simons
Raf Simons can sometimes make you think he's crazy...see these oversized shoes!
An architect by training, Simons is a designer resolutely focused on the future, saying that he hates anything related to the “retro” trend in fashion.
With constructed and architectural silhouettes - it's fair to say - he will bring a sophisticated vision to men's fashion, particularly at Jil Sander, of which he will be artistic director. He will create Raf by Raf Simons, a 2nd line in the same spirit as the first but less expensive.
He will stand out for his sneakers with a very futuristic design (multi-material, applications, etc.). Today at the head of Dior's PAP and couture women's line, he has clearly established himself as an essential figure in fashion in recent years.
Ralph Lauren
The mention of this name immediately calls up the image of this kind of grotesque pony...sorry, of a rider playing polo, sometimes worn in disproportionate proportions, without much interest. Indeed, for the most part, that’s it. But not only that, far from it, and the study of the different lines of the house shows this.
Superb cuts and aristocratic inspirations: Purple Label is very popular!
Purple Label . “The ultimate luxury” as they describe it. And objectively, the products are indeed very well cut, the materials are particularly luxurious...as are the prices. Also having a half-measure manufacturing offer, you will find with these purple labels the best that Ralph Lauren offers, in an extremely refined and classic style.
Simplistic...?
Black Label : in the same spirit as Purple label, it is about offering a range of chic basics but a little less expensive, in less luxurious materials. An in-between that is not necessarily very interesting either from a style or manufacturing point of view.
Colorful, Polo is THE preppy brand par excellence!
Polo Ralph Lauren : undoubtedly the most widespread and best-known line of the group, it is symbolized by this famous polo player on horseback. The concept is “chic” sport, that is to say taking inspiration from the aristocratic spirit of Polo (sport) to make it a line of casual but “classy” clothing at the same time.
Oversold and poorly worn, it is not really interesting, even if the polo shirts can boast of decent quality.
You see: vintage!
RRL : depicting the working world of the beginning of the last century, the concept is a very (very) retro “workwear” sepia atmosphere...but also, surprisingly, very high-end! Ralph Lauren wanted to have good raw selvedge jeans made in the USA, in the old style, and with chain stitch! We even advise you to wear it for 90 days before washing it... If the (expensive) jeans are indeed very interesting, stay vigilant about the rest of the collection.
And why not some Abercrombie while we’re at it?!
Denim & Supply : more casual than all the others, it offers hooded sweatshirts and T-shirts with an aged effect, displaying a stained and yellowed American flag. Despite the “vintage” vibes which are reminiscent of RRL, the quality is quite mediocre. Best for sales, in case you fall for it.
RLX is above all a sports brand!
RLX : bringing together sports clothing, it offers comfortable pieces with technical materials (breathable fabrics, etc.). In addition to this, it also oversees the Golf and Tennis lines, with a range of products dedicated to these sports. Not sure it's better than Decathlon's Tribord brand...
Roberto Cavalli
We will very soon have the opportunity to return in detail to this designer suffering, like many Italians, from a bad reputation...often unfairly!
Leather embroidered with strips of python, embroidered lambskin pants, a superb blue suit with suede leather pants: the stunning quality of the materials is striking.
Roberto Cavalli : A bit like Versace, Cavalli reflects a certain sense of bling... and rightly so sometimes, it must be said. Beyond leopard and zebra prints, keep in mind that Roberto Cavalli made his name by developing leather working techniques (printing, lasering, etc.) demonstrating impressive know-how in this area.
Above all loving beauty without worrying about prejudices, the House offers pieces often colored, embroidered or chiselled, and always exotic leathers such as python or alligator. The quality of the first line is excellent but extremely expensive. Beware of certain pieces that are available in stores but whose manufacturing and price (that's how you will notice them) are lower than the others.
Roberto Cavalli Class : dedicated to more formal clothing, this line is an interesting intermediary within the group's universe. Recognizable by using the Cavalli codes, but nevertheless easy to wear, the “class” branded pieces have, unfortunately, a slightly outdated side.
Colorful, casual and a little questionable, this is the Just Cavalli style
Just Cavalli : fresh and young, the collection is characterized by an intensive use of colors and a “trendy” style. The quality can be very uncertain, but you can find interesting pieces (shirts/jeans) with a good value for money (especially on sale).
Saint Laurent
Despite undeniable talent and style, Slimane wallowed the genius of Yves Saint Laurent in disconcerting vulgarity. Stefano Pilatti knew how to create collections in tune with the spirit of the late couturier (far left).
The Couture House was founded by the late Yves Saint Laurent in 1961. He was for a long time the most adored designer in the world of Haute Couture, calling on the best craftsmen (embroiderers, tailors, etc.), with certain pieces requiring several thousand dollars. 'working hours.
Tuxedos, peacoats and safari jackets made up the men's wardrobe, borrowed by YSL from men's clothing for its women's collections. Despite letting go of the “Rive Gauche” line, which initially housed the men's line, the brand remains today a safe bet for quality clothing.
When Hedi Slimane arrived, it was renamed “Saint Laurent” and also lost all notion of refinement, judging by certain looks inspired by grandmother Yeta ! Hungry for what made it successful years ago, Slimane takes away from the brand everything that made Yves Saint Laurent great, adopting a “rock chic” style that has already been seen, and almost out of date.
If some beautiful pieces remain available in stores (jeans, coats, suits, etc.), the style imposed by Slimane is regrettable, and proves difficult to wear if you have the slightest ounce of good taste.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Giornetti excels whatever the tone given to its collections. Even in sportswear, he knows how to inject remarkable refinement.
Relatively discreet among its peers, the House of Ferragamo is nevertheless quite remarkable for its traditional conception of Made in Italy luxury.
Easily accessible without being too widespread, the brand notably manufactures beautiful shoes and has a beautiful range of leather goods. Her clothes are superbly made and the materials just as beautiful!
The “runway” collections are bold while remaining wearable, revealing Giornetti’s talent, both modern and traditional. This name is truly a guarantee of quality on almost all of its products, plus a very pleasant and professional in-store sales team.
Tom Ford
His target: successful and debauched young millionaires.
King of decadence and advertising pornography (he collaborates with "Uncle Terry", famous photographer accused of rape ), Ford stood out at Gucci with outrageously sexy collections.
Today at the head of his own house, he has calmed down - a little - to design the wardrobe of a dandy who loves impeccably tailored tuxedos (subcontracted by Zegna!), aristocratic Prince of Wales check suits and fur coats. Reserved for a group of happy few, the creation of the very rare Tom Ford pieces is worthy of their price. Fortunately, otherwise it would seem like a disguise.
Versace
Gianni Versace died in 1998, leaving behind an empire that this son of small businessmen built with his own hands. The 90s marked the age of the house, which then had more than ten different lines, each with one thing in common: luxury and craftsmanship.
Today, Ateliers Versace is part of the very exclusive club of haute couture lines, at the top of a pyramid comprising 4 other lines.
Donatella Versace and her team often cross the line of good taste, but the execution is always impeccable.
Versace : Engraving of the divinity Medusa, geometric Greek frieze, the house of Versace has an extremely strong identity, both in terms of its history and its style. Symbol of hysterical fashion, Versace, in the collective imagination, is only a bling bling brand, like its creator.
In reality, connoisseurs are unanimous about the incredible talent of its workshops, capable of all technical feats. Alongside the exuberance of the fashion shows, the men's line offers sumptuous pieces (leather, crafted jeans, cashmere coats, etc.) with exceptional cuts and materials.
Almost completely family-owned and independent, the brand maintains the rarity of its products, which are difficult to produce in large quantities due to their high technicality. A weight barrier, beyond style: the price. There are other lines that are more accessible but totally disconnected from the luxurious world of the first Versace line.
Depending on the designers, we notice very varied influences.
Versus : it is a second line originally created for Donatella in the 90s, which will today be managed by several new designers, who will each design a few collections before handing over to another young designer. Today Anthony Vaccarello is in charge, having succeeded Christopher Kane and JW Anderson.
More sober but less well made than the first line, Versace collection still has some interesting pieces.
Versace Collection: Far from the quality of the first line, this label offers clothes without much interest, of decent quality but nothing remarkable. From time to time interesting pieces can come out of it, but it will be difficult to find in Europe.
Today we are far from this line imagined by Gianni Versace with the aim of offering luxury jeans!
Versace Jeans : Once luxurious and made in Italy , this line has become very cheap. As for the design and manufacturing, it's typically the kind of collection that offers logos to those who don't know much about it. To be absolutely banned. For your information, the House has granted all exploitation and production of this name to the Ittiere group.
WooYoungMi
The middle coat is particularly structured by geometric reliefs.
The brand bears the name of its designer of Korean origin, launched in men's fashion in 2002. The label emerged quite quickly and is today an unmissable event at Paris fashion week.
Wooyoungmi is part of a movement parallel to historic luxury houses, offering a new vision of men's wardrobe, inspired by the world of design and architecture.
Easily wearable, and often very fair, WYM fashion typically features structured and sometimes refined silhouettes. The materials and cuts offer good quality, but it is truly the style and the mastery of textures that constitute the added value of the brand... among many "basics"!
Previous parts of the guide can be found here:
