Mathieu created an excellent discussion topic in the forum about traditional shaving. The result is a long, but truly comprehensive guide, which will appeal to anyone who is tired of carrying around poor quality blades (or spending Greece's GDP on Gilette razor blades every 2 months).
Not many men can afford to rock the Chabal look.
A brief history of shaving through the ages
So here you are.
You think about it while shaving in the morning as someone else would say. In front of your mirror, not very awake, this can of "shaving gel 3000" and your Wilkinette Mach 12 and a half plastic razor don't really inspire you, but really not. What a chore !
And it costs you an arm and a leg. Oh you've never done the math, but instinctively, you know: the 4 Fusion Proglide Power heads at €18.82 (€4.71 / piece), it's not really what we can call l deal of the century (small dedication to all those who are tired of seeing the amounts of their single-price receipts explode every time they have to buy blades and/or a can of foam).
“ That’s nice, but it’s not really like I have a choice ,” you say. And you would almost be right, because looking like a shaggy caveman is definitely not a reasonable option for the modern man that you are.
However, you have the choice: but it is behind you. So take your eyes off the mirror for a second, just long enough to take a quick look back: the best of decades of traditional shaving was right there, within your reach, well hidden under tons of unnecessary patents carefully filed by sellers of multi-blade razors.
Which shave to choose? And where has traditional shaving gone?
Traditional shaving, or old-fashioned shaving. Another obscure practice reserved for extremists, a useless rite that even your grandfather abandoned in favor of modern progress? For profit, indeed.
Two words of history, if you shave today with equipment that is both kitsch, overpriced and unpleasant, it is because a few guys in suits one day decided among themselves that it was no longer profitable enough to sell a few blades here and there, and that it was starting to do well, and that we were going to see what we were going to see and that we were going to file patents in spades and market disposable razors at 2, 3, 4 (soon 5? towards infinity and beyond?) blades and collect money, name of a beard hair.
Remember this passage from 99F in which Beigbeder jokes about the fact that the marketing guys will always get by, even if it means coming up with a new razor with 15 blades. For those most interested, it's called planned obsolescence = how to transform certain durable objects into consumables. I will therefore allow myself to refer to this type of shaving under the well-deserved name of “marketing shaving”. By the way, need it be said that these blades are horrible to recycle? (Steel encased in plastic + other aberrations/technical complexities = yum).
This razor is probably capable of going to space,
but that's not what we're asking...
How to shave (or rather how to relearn how to shave well)?
I'll stop splitting hairs because it risks becoming a razor, and I'll get to the heart of the matter (stupid jokes aside, here we go).
If I had to define old school shaving, I would say it is the use of old school/vintage type equipment to trim your facial hair. As we are not extremists (and above all as it works well) we can mix the two types of shaving.
Concretely it is: a little gear, a little technique, and a lot of fun .
It may seem strange to you, but some people enjoy shaving. I took the plunge a year ago, I congratulate myself on it every morning. Good news: learning is quite easy/natural/progressive and there is no break (or very little) even at the beginning. Don't judge the result on your first shave, you may be a little less well shaved than usual, and that will be perfectly normal. You will probably need a few shaves to get a nice result. And after a few weeks, the result obtained should be incomparable...
The required hardware is already more elegant, isn't it?
Shaving is broken down into three phases (I will come back to this in more detail later), to be carried out in order please 😉
- Before shaving (preparation / cleaning of skin and hair)
- Shaving (be careful darling, it will cut)
- Aftershave (rinsing, drying, applying lotion)
You obviously already know them, but you probably don't use the same equipment to make them (disposable razor, with interchangeable heads or electric, shaving foam/gel spray, supermarket aftershave).
Each phase is adaptable in countless variations, depending on your tastes, your mood of the day, the equipment and the amount of time at your disposal, which means that each shave will be unique... although you can decide to adopt a routine, or create your own, with or without variations. The possibilities are enormous, so let's try to see more clearly.
Pre-shave: for a better shave, prepare the ground
This is about preparing your skin for shaving. We don't attack like that, a blade attacks, it irritates. We will therefore try to soften the hair and protect the skin.
Marketing shaving :
- We mainly use water and shaving foam or gel.
Traditional shaving :
- water
- pre-shave oil (optional)
- pre-shave cream (optional)
- shaving soap or cream
- brush / shaving brush
- shaving bowl/mug (optional)
I've listed quite a bit of equipment here, and luckily you don't need everything!
To get started, we generally choose a shaving soap (or a cream, but it's a little less economical), a shaving brush , and a shaving bowl or cup except for the adventurous who want to apply their foam directly to the face. (some do it, personally I find it a little complicated to manage, especially when you're starting out).
We generally recommend starting shaving after getting out of the shower, so that your face is already damp/dripping. The hair will be much softer and easier to cut. Otherwise, splash yourself generously with lukewarm water from the tap. I insist on lukewarm, water that is too hot attacks the skin, and cold water is not the most pleasant (that's up to you).
Now it’s time to assemble your foam. Using the moistened shaving brush, make a few turns on your shaving soap to load it with product (if you are using a shaving cream, just put a small dab at the bottom of the bowl). Do not crush the brush too much to avoid damaging it. Empty the water from your bowl without drying it (so that a little bit remains at the bottom): you are ready to whip up your first mousse.
There are no secrets here, it takes practice . Make several vigorous turns in one direction and the other (always without torturing your brush) until you obtain a foam of sufficient consistency and quality. Pay attention to the quantity of water. If you add too much it will be the consistency of a foam party, fun but not very protective. If you don't use enough, the foam will dry on your face, a little unpleasant and above all ineffective. Aim for a creamy consistency, for gourmets: between whipped egg whites and whipped cream.
The tip : start with very little water, and add it in very small amounts. You can run your hand under the tap and let it trickle over the bowl to control the quantity.
Is your mousse ready? A quick spin in the bowl to properly load the brush, and presto, on the face. Purse your lips (it doesn't taste very good) and massage your face using the shaving brush. The layer thus deposited will be relatively thin because it is mainly a question of standing up the hair and making the foam adhere well to your skin. A sort of underlay. You can now switch to Picasso mode and use the brush like a brush to add a nice thick layer of mousse to your face.
Personally, it's one of my favorite actions when shaving. It puts an end to the preparation phase.
A nice thick, protective foam.
Which razor to choose? The moment of choice of weapons
Marketing shaving :
- electric or multi-blade razor, with interchangeable or disposable head
Traditional shaving :
- safety razor (also called DE for double edge) + DE blades / straight razor (CC)
And that's all ! And believe me, that's already a lot. Here too, the possibilities are almost endless: not to mention the numerous models available commercially and the treasures found in garage sales (ok, on ebay). Some enthusiasts go so far as to restore old razors by making the brush for a cabbage cutter themselves (in the same way that some make unique shaving brushes).
The straight cut
I will quickly move on to the straight razor (or saber) , because I have not tried it personally and it seems less accessible to the novice: it is a razor fitted with a fixed blade, who can retreat into the hunt.
Relatively expensive to purchase, its handling requires a little more learning than that of a safety razor. It should also be used with caution: if you share a small bathroom with your partner or your children and everyone is awake, you risk being jostled...
When purchasing, you should also remember to ask if the “shave-ready” option is available, because a preparation step is essential before using this item for the first time. The maintenance of the precious is a subject that I do not master, but I have read here and there that it is also quite an art, with special stones for sharpening and leather contraptions for sharpening.
However, straight razor shaving is fascinating, there is something magical in this practice of a true gentleman.
The so-called straight razor, a little tricky to start with...
The safety razor
As you will have understood, we will favor the simplest solution: the safety razor .
The double edge, DE, safety razor is the same thing: it's the razor of the American GI... and perhaps also of your grandfather. This appeals to a different imagination than the straight cut, also virile and vintage, but not from the same era.
The principle is simple: a razor whose head unscrews, a pack of blades, slide a blade into the razor, tighten the head: you are good for service, soldier! I will come back to the choice of blades later.
The merkur 34 C HD (Heavy Duty) safety razor, simple and effective
How to shave?
You are now ready.
Face protected with foam, razor in hand, a brand new blade in place, ready to... ready for what anyway?
One moment please, you have to get rid of a bad habit acquired with your old razor : that of pressing like a nag. I still remember it as if it were yesterday: multi-blade blades are horrible, you have to put a lot of pressure on the razor for it to cut as little as possible. The hairs get stuck between the blades, and it's even worse.
So let's start again: you have your DE in hand. Take the opportunity to weigh the machine. We are no longer faced with cheap plastic, it's metal, big, virile, heavy. That's exactly what we're interested in: you won't need to press. Let the weight of the razor do the work for you . You will not have a BBS (Baby Butt Smooth) result from the first pass and that is normal: you will shave in 2 or 3 passes.
The principle is to gradually reduce the length of the hair . You'll see, with a little practice, it doesn't take any longer. Above all, don't try to obtain a good result from the first pass, this is the best way to irritate your skin badly.
You now need to find the right angle (which the articulated head of your multi-blade did more or less well for you). Nothing could be simpler: place the head of the razor against your skin, the handle perpendicular to the surface to be shaved, and gently tilt the handle a few degrees to place the blade in cutting position.
Finding the right angle is done by feeling , you will get there very quickly, after a few tries you will no longer need to think about it because you will have automated the gesture. Pay close attention to the direction of hair growth: it is not the same all over the face. Make your first pass in the direction of the hair. Be particularly attentive to your actions on the neck and mustache: the skin is more sensitive there.
Don't be afraid to make faces if that will help smooth out the area you're shaving! It is also possible to use your free hand to stretch the skin (don't pull like a nag: we said tighten, not lift).
The tip : block your wrist. Only the shoulder and elbow joints work.
Once the first pass is finished, you can rinse your face, to coat it again with foam (if you worked well in step 1, there is a good amount left in the bowl). It's time to attack the second pass . Some perform it across the direction of push, but others continue in the direction of push. For a start, stay in the direction of growth, it's less aggressive, and your skin is not yet used to this new shave, as well as to your slightly hesitant movements 😉
Repeat with a third pass if the need arises. From shave to shave, when your technique is refined, you can try passes across and against the direction of the hair, but always during the second or third pass. In practice, depending on your hair growth, the sensitivity of your skin, the small regrowth problems that may occasionally occur (ingrown hairs, pimples, small lesions), it is wise to adapt your shaving.
You do not have to make a pass in the opposite direction over the entire face: if one area seems less well shaved than another, nothing prevents you from returning to it, or from doing it in the opposite direction. even if the rest of your shave was done with the grain. Go by feeling .
When you feel the shave is satisfactory, rinse your face , wipe the suds from your neck, ears and nostrils. You are now presentable, but there is still one essential step!
Aftershave: the essential third half
Marketing shaving :
- supermarket aftershave
Traditional shaving :
- alum stone (optional)
- hot towel (optional)
- aftershave in quality lotion / balm
To finish the job well, you need to soothe your skin . Despite the many precautions taken during your ceremony, your face has just suffered an attack. Nothing serious, but we must act! In the case of small cuts, alum stone works miracles, it stops small bleeding with formidable effectiveness.
You can have fun running it over the rest of your face while it is still damp to spot your little errors when handling the razor. It’s easy: that’s where it stings.
Check carefully that no hair has escaped the razor , particularly around the mouth and on the neck under the corners of the jaw, before tidying up the mess that you inevitably left in your room. bath.
Your skin has had time to dry a little (dab with a terry towel if necessary), it is time to apply aftershave (you can first apply a hot towel for 15 to 20 seconds to properly open the pores skin). If you use a balm (thicker): a little in the hands, and spread it over the face.
If you use a lotion (liquid), it's less easy to dose, there are small sprays that fit on the neck of the bottle, it's ideal but I haven't been able to test it myself. Opinions are mixed on the use of aftershaves containing alcohol. On the one hand it seems that it disinfects. On the other hand, it seems that it's hard at the moment. As someone else would say: it's you who see.
It is sometimes said that balms are more suitable for winter, and lotions for summer. Personally I found a compromise with a fairly minty/refreshing balm that I use all year round.
The tip : remember to use an aftershave that does not interfere with the smell of your perfume! In this regard, balms may be less problematic than lotions.
Some very nice video tutorials have been posted on YouTube by mantic59 :
It's in English, but it will be useful for everyone to see lots of techniques and tips in action.
Here he explains how to shave well in 10 minutes:
Buying men's shaving equipment
That's all well and good, but what am I actually buying? And or ?
To be honest, you are spoiled for choice, as the range of products is so plentiful (thanks to the internet). We will try to give you some pointers and help you find your way in this jungle. First of all, know that you don't have to buy everything at once. You can very well buy a razor and blades while keeping your current aftershave and foam, or a shaving brush and soap without changing your multi-blade.
The ideal of course is to buy a shaving brush, a pot of soap (or a tube of cream), a safety razor and a few blades.
You can then buy a good aftershave as well as an alum stone. For the shaving bowl, any breakfast bowl should do. I personally found a stainless steel bowl for €2 or €3 at Ikea.
Badger
Default choice, found in supermarkets: Wilkinson, €12. At this price don't expect a miracle, the quality is not great, but for an initiation it might be OK. I sold mine quickly enough to get a nicer one online.
On the internet, you have quite a few choices for this object. Simply avoid boar brushes and turn to real badgers... made of badger hair (bagder). Brush size is measured in mm at the knot at the base of the bristles. No need to order the largest one, you would be hard-pressed to work on smaller areas like the mustache. Concretely, 20 to 23 mm is not bad.
Three types of bristles are used:
- Pure bagder : the more common badger hairs are used to make quite decent entry-level brushes, the foam can be a little more difficult to assemble.
- Best bagder : these hairs are already rarer on the animal and the brush manufactured is of better quality and denser. The foam will be easier to mount, and the contact on the face more pleasant.
- Silvertip badger : these are the rarest, softest, but above all the most expensive hairs. However, it is not necessarily wise to embark on this type of purchase. It may be more difficult for the inexperienced shaver to load the brush with soap or massage his face due to the high flexibility of the bristles.
Good brands include Omega, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, Kent, Plisson, and Simpson. Don't worry too much about the support for drying the shaving brush, it will dry very well head up.
Reasonable budget: €30 to €50 you will already have a beautiful best badger brush.
A beautiful shaving brush from the Kent brand: official supplier to the Royal Crown of England, yes sir!
Soap/cream
Default choice, found in supermarkets: Monsavon shaving soap, around €1.50. It's barely worth the price. If you absolutely want to avoid shipping costs, you will probably find a tube of Palmolive or Wilkinson cream on the same aisle for €2 or €3. Who are worth a little more than their price, they.
Soap versus cream, round 1 . What to say ? The soap is available in a bowl or stick (more practical for travel, to spread on the face to build up the foam directly). Advantage: it lasts longer, therefore cheaper. The cream is generally in a tube or jar. It can be transported more easily than a large bowl of soap, and you can find it of decent quality at the local supermarket. The rest is a matter of preference and availability.
On the internet, the offer is simply enormous. With or without paraben, for normal or sensitive skin, with multiple scents: Proraso (fresh and minty/lemon), Cella (high-end) in Italian products, Taylor of Old Bond Street (TOBS) for the English (scented with almond, lavender…), Tobacco among the Germans (quite virile and heady smell), Speick, Valbora, Musgo Real….
Don't worry too much about the scent of the soap, it won't last after shaving: take the one you like. Note that creams/soaps for sensitive skin often have a weaker/more neutral odor. Other brands that I have not had the opportunity to test but which have a very good reputation: Maison du Barbier (they also make shaving brushes), Crabtree & Evelyn, Cella, Martin de Candre.
Reasonable budget: €5 to €15 for a pot of soap that will last at least a year (mine seems indestructible to me, to think that I bought a second pot…).
Martin de Candre, the very high-end shaving soap.
Cella soap has an excellent reputation, but what are you going to do with such a quantity?
Selection of razors
I will only talk about DEs here (and there is already a lot to say!).
Once again: you can choose almost everything. Short or long handle, heavy or light razor, 2 or 3 piece assembly (or butterfly), straight head, comb or slant, adjustable or not… are you a little lost? Let's try to see it clearly.
The length of the handle and the weight of the razor are a matter of preference , and influence the grip and handling. I have a weakness for long handles and fairly heavy razors, even if they are less practical for traveling.
Assembly: this is how your razor fits together to allow a blade to slide inside. The razor generally disassembles into 2 or 3 pieces, but there are also old Gilettes with butterfly openings. Little impact on shaving: take what you want. The straight head is the most common, the one generally recommended for getting started with DE, and for daily use.
Short assembly (3 pieces)
Long assembly (2 pieces)
Butterfly opening
The serrated comb head is equipped with a sort of comb, it is more suitable for shaving long hairs. As for the slant, it is a bit of a twisted/skewed head that requires a little more practice and mastery. Serrated/slant combs are often a second or third “pleasure” purchase for DE owners.
Straight comb
Serrated comb
Slant
The brands : Merkur (models 33C, 34C “HD”, 38C, quite incisive, Vision or Futur for the adjustable ones), Mühle (R89, softer) or old Gilette from the 60s (used online), and you will have very good material without breaking the bank. The adjustable models from Merkur are already more expensive (Vision, Futur). Better to go for some vintage Gilette (maybe your grandfather's attic holds some treasures?).
Edwin Jagger also makes pretty good razors, but having had them in my hands, I stick with my Merkur and my Gilette without hesitation!
Reasonable budget: 25 to 40 euros.
Blade selection
Default choice, found in supermarkets : Blue vest or Wilkinson sword (just OK) / Carrefour (not bad it seems).
You will laugh: the choice is vast. You're starting to get used to it, aren't you 😉?
The advantage is that a blade lasts on average 4 to 6 shaves, so it's an opportunity to test some (but not all, you have a technique to perfect, it would be a shame to test dozens of blades only to realize that it is in fact your unsteady beginner's actions that are causing you these little irritations).
Good references found online include Derby blades, Gilette 7 o'clock yellow (sharpedge) or green (superstainless), Shark, Tiger, Personna (it seems that these are the suppliers of Carrefour), Bic chrome platinum , Feather (more expensive and sharp, don't start with these blades, especially if you bought a rather aggressive DE).
There are many others. I settled on the yellow 7 o'clock vests which offer a good compromise between sharpness and tolerance to small handling errors.
Reasonable budget: 15 to 20 cents per blade. Most sites offer a sample pack for a few euros, which should allow you to test a few blades before buying 50, 100, 300... to lower the price per unit.
A Feather brand blade, made in Japan
Some packs of blades
Aftershave selection
Default choice, found in supermarkets: any that you already have on the shelf, or available in your supermarket.
Balm or lotion? As you feel. Between Taylor of Old Bond Street, Tabac (be careful, very virile smell which can destroy your perfume), Speick, Weleda, Proraso, you should find what you are looking for!
Reasonable budget: 10 to 20 euros for a nice balm.
Musgo Real, the balm of champions?
Some addresses to obtain equipment and products
Internet
- http://www.shaving.ie : you can take it easy, they offer really good products
- http://www.shaving-shack.com : as long as you avoid their “bluebeards revenge” marketing line, they have very good material.
- http://connaughtshaving.com/ : don't stop at the design, this site is a model of reliability and seriousness, some products are available in the form of samples, practical for testing!
- http://www.1barber.be/ : very good site for shaving products, run by a BonneGueule reader. The physical store is in Belgium. The boss is passionate, see the RTBF report available here .
- http://www.barbe-and-co.fr/ : French site that offers good gear
In physics
- Renaud Armory 128 r Provence 75008 Paris
- Cutlery Chastel 190 bd Haussmann 75008 Paris
- Try the experience at the barber: Alain, Master Barber . Salon-Museum 8 rue Saint Claude 75003 Paris
By searching a little, you may discover a cutlery shop, an armory or a hairdresser in your town who will be able to offer you advice and possibly interesting equipment.
Also take advantage of your trips abroad to discover the products available locally:
- In Italy , Proraso products are considered common consumption, and available at low prices in many supermarkets. And Cella soap (true old school high-end) is available in 1 kg blocks.
- In Germany you will easily find the Tabac or Speick range.
- And in England you should be able to buy Taylor of Old Bond Street products: be curious!
Tobacco
Musgo Real
Proraso
Tailor of Old Bond Street
Want to know more about traditional shaving?
Finally, here are some links to forums and enthusiast sites which are full of good advice, good deals, information on brands that are a little more confidential but of high quality:
In French :
- http://coupechouclub.cultureforum.net - The forum for cabbage lovers
- http://badgerandblade.com/reviews/ Tests of many products, really very complete (and a very complete forum ).
Mini glossary:
- DE : Double Edge, safety razor with interchangeable blades
- CC : straight razor, officially saber, or straight razor
- ATG : Against The Grain, go against the grain
- XTG : Across The Grain, across the direction of growth
- WTG : With The Grain, along the lines of the grain
- BBS : Baby Butt Smooth, smooth like baby skin. This is a perfect result, but watch out for regrowth and irritation problems. Do not insist on getting it at the beginning, or even later if you feel that it is causing you problems with regrowth.
- YMMW : Your Mileage May Vary, your experience may differ. This expression is generally used as a reminder that every shaving experience is subjective. What suits you may not suit your neighbor, and vice versa.
Optionals and some shaving tips to finish
The use of certain optional products mentioned above allows some to optimize shaving. Applying a pre-shave oil improves glide and better prepares the skin. So not essential but if you feel that it can benefit you or make you enjoy your shaving better, why not?
Pre-shave creams also exist. Proraso sells a pre/post cream that is supposed to do double duty, as the name suggests. Opinions about it seem mixed. To test for the curious.
Proraso pre/post: your mileage may vary 😉
Glycerin (found in pharmacies) can be used as an additive if your soap does not contain enough to create a nice lather, but this quickly becomes expensive: you might as well buy a good soap. Its real use is rather to keep the blades protected from oxidation between two shaves. Indeed, if your blades become dull during each shave, they oxidize on contact with air between shaves.
To extend the life of a blade (before it starts to chatter), you can rinse and dry it after each shave then immerse it in a small container filled with glycerin. Difficult to say if it is profitable, in any case it is very practical for those who do not shave very frequently.
Alum stone is really recommended: very practical for stopping small bleeding and identifying areas that you are a little too irritated. You can easily find them on the internet, or more simply at Nature & Découvertes. It can also replace your deodorant (or support it). Be sure to choose a natural stone and not an artificial one.
To wash your face, forget all the products sold for a fortune in pharmacies (like Biactol and other nonsense) and buy yourself an Aleppo soap . Made in Aleppo, Syria from laurel and olive oil, it is THE ultimate remedy for most skin problems, perfect for washing the skin on your face (which is not the same as that of the body, please don't wash your face with your shower gel, it deserves better).
Here too, you will find them on the internet or in the nearest Nature & Découvertes. The investment is extremely profitable: just like alum stone, this thing is indestructible and will last you several years.
If it doesn't change your life, Aleppo soap will do your face good.
Finally, don't hesitate to moisturize your skin well with a suitable cream . Nivea cream is very practical. Use it preferably in the evening before going to sleep to avoid walking around with your face shiny all day. For the evil spirits who claim that putting on cream makes you feel a little naive, I remind you that having bad, dry skin makes you feel a lot like a bum. Choose your side!
Would you like to use some moisturizer again?
In case of persistent skin problems, do not hesitate to consult a dermatologist.
Last little tip for having healthy skin: don't neglect sleep (says the guy who goes to bed at 2/3 a.m. twice in a row to write these lines ^^) and adopt a good lifestyle : it helps reduce pimples/oily skin/dull complexion problems.
Sunday morning bonus:
if even Scarlett Johansson gets involved,
then you no longer have an excuse.
A big thank you to Mathieu for this article!
