The 1920s were a rich period for sport. Roland Garros opened to international players, the American-European Ryder Cup golf tournament was launched and women participated in the Olympic Games for the first time.
American football was just 50 years old; the baseball league, 60 years old, and FIFA barely celebrated its 20th anniversary! The supervised practice of outdoor sports was ultimately recent.
In 1921, the France team won its first match against England after a chaotic start. It was only able to take shape thanks to the creation of the FFF in 1919.
The opposing team also played in shirts!
Sport is becoming more popular and the demand for sports clothing is only increasing. However, we still focus on the only primary need of not being cold, without thinking too much about the rest.
Remember your outdoor sports classes, on winter mornings, during your schooling: being warm at the right time, while waiting for the body to warm up through physical activity, was quite simply vital for your health. It was already the same in the 1920s: we quickly realized that clothing whose role was to keep the heat in, while not hindering movement, was absolutely essential.
It is therefore a decisive period for sportswear, since it will see the birth of one of its main pieces: the sweatshirt .
Until then, athletes wore a kind of gray wool sweater to warm up before and after exercise. Worn next to the skin - the t-shirt had not yet fully worn out - these models were particularly heavy and uncomfortable. It is also said that they took a long time to dry, not to mention their tendency to shrink when washed.
In short, this problem of thermal protection for outdoor athletes had still not been resolved satisfactorily. But it was only a matter of time...
Around 1900 - Tom Shelvin, American athlete and businessman of the last century, in his Yale football team sweater. It’s the prehistory of sportswear!
The situation will only change at the end of the decade
Bennie was the heir to the eponymous Russell company, which specialized in the manufacture of union suits for women and children.
Union suits were one-piece underwear that covered the entire body. Look at the top, the shape doesn’t remind you of anything? 😉
Tired of having to deal with an itchy knit and full of sweat, he decides to take inspiration from the products of the family factory. Relying on the top of the union follows that it improves, it thus obtains a light piece, without collar, in thick cotton weave , significantly more pleasant than its wool counterpart. The first sweatshirt was born.
Bennie Russell in his sweatshirt. Note that he had chosen to keep the original gray color! For the record, it was an employee of the company who came up with the term “sweat-shirt”, literally “sweatshirt”. Basically, it's the comfortable and practical room in which you can move!
From there, Russell Sr. sent sweatshirts to several retailers: all of them were incredibly successful. The brand quickly abandoned union suits to specialize in sports equipment, still to this day.
The Russell Athletic brand still exists today.
Its integration into the preppy wardrobe
The sweatshirt will quickly make its way into the preppy wardrobe , largely influenced by the clothing of university students.
Very logically, its establishment by Bennie Russell - a student at Yale - contributed to it. That being said, it is to another brand that we owe the transformation of the sweatshirt into a preppy piece in its own right: Champion ...
Launched in 1919 by the Feinbloom brothers, the knitting factory then specialized in the production of sweatshirts and sweatpants. Approaching the University of Michigan, she began supplying them with equipment for their various teams.
The brand itself says that word of mouth played a considerable role in its development: coaches at the University of Michigan sang the praises of Champion to their colleagues from other faculties, until she achieved a strong reputation.
"Champion dresses college sports teams".
Champion's impact can be explained by a genius idea, since it is the company which invented the principle of flocking as we know it today. No more need for heavy embroidery! The sweatshirt was no longer just a functional piece, it was also a way to display the colors of your team and, above all, to show your belonging to your university!
Nearly 80 years later, Champion continues to play on this fiber.
Democratized thanks to cinema
The sweatshirt remained the characteristic of athletes and students until 1963. Once again, it is to the famous Steve McQueen - aka the King of Cool - that we owe its democratization in such an important way. All he had to do was wear it in the film The Great Escape for the sweatshirt to definitely move beyond its strictly sporty and student context.
Let’s put things in context. Handsome, virile, charismatic, cool : McQueen was a true icon. If the ideal of America was there, why deprive yourself of it?
We can no longer count the trends perpetuated by Steve McQueen, including the sweatshirt.
Observe how the sweatshirt is worn, we are far from a smooth look. On the contrary, we contrast the piece with a leather flight jacket, originally reserved for air force soldiers. The patina is really marked, it's the jacket of a man who has had adventures (I'm caricaturing a bit but you get the idea). In the same spirit, the top is dusty and its blue is a little faded, far from the nice preppy of the Ivy League.
In a half-sleeved version, this time worn on a motorcycle. Without spoiling anything, the film tells the story of prisoners of war who escape from a camp. A very strong character, almost indomitable, who will offer a new image to the sweatshirt.
The sweatshirt in the 70s to 90s
Has the sweatshirt just become badass ? 😉
During the 70s, we lost interest in the sweatshirt which gradually re-emerged. If surf culture played a role in this return
Under their Adidas jackets, the Run DMC often wore sweatshirts, for example.
When luxury takes over the sweatshirt
It was only a matter of time before luxury took over . We can notably cite Tommy Hilfiger (who very quickly adopted a strategy of rapprochement with musical artists ), without forgetting the sweatshirt by Calvin Klein.
The iconic Calvin Klein Jeans sweatshirt.
For the last few years, the prize for sweat-couture-hype goes to Kenzo, which had a huge boost in its turnover by selling basic embroidered sweatshirts for €200 (hello juicy margins)...
Everything suggests that the sweatshirt has now settled in and will never leave again. It's an easy piece, socially accepted without any problem.
A bit like the t-shirt (minus the protest side), the sweatshirt has crossed several different strata of society, thus becoming a piece that cuts across several styles. It was therefore normal that we were interested in it for our BonneGueule Line...
Why a sweatshirt in the Japan Line?
I simply realized that it was one of the pieces that Geoffrey and I wore the most on a daily basis!
Apart from summer, I wear them almost every day for two reasons:
- It's very comfortable thanks to the cotton! Even if it is not as renowned as merino for its thermal properties, I have personally always found its warmth very pleasant and "versatile" , especially compared to a large wool sweater where it is possible to have a little too hot.
- I really like the look of a sweatshirt in an outfit. In recent years, it is a piece that has completely lost its teenage connotation, finding its place perfectly in a "casual chic" outfit (I don't like this expression but it is very telling), even after 40 years . It's not Alessandro Squarzi who would say the opposite, he who wears it with white jeans and sneakers, or with raw jeans, derbies and a long coat.
The BonneGueule sweatshirt - Japan Line. With a casual shirt underneath (oxford, chambray, flannel, etc.), the result will be perfect. Even the sweatshirt/blazer combo is possible. Jason is hesitant to wear this large necklace on top, but we advise against it.
As a result, the absence of sweatshirts in the BonneGueule Line was an anomaly that we had to correct, but taking our time. It was clear that it had to be in the Japan Line because once you have tasted Japanese fleeces, it becomes difficult to want anything else.
I wanted a material that remained stable over time . Indeed, if certain fleeces are very elastic, they can quickly "pocket" at the elbows or waist, causing the sweatshirt to lose its shape.
With these specifications, Alexandre therefore turned to Toki, a Japanese supplier which we have spoken about several times in these columns.
A heather gray fleece from Toki, developed exclusively for us
A two-century-old manufacturer
If you have been following us for a while and you know the brands we talk about regularly, this name probably means something to you but I would like us to focus on it.
Toki is the Japanese supplier known for its use of vintage machines dating from the 19th century for knitting fleece (yes, we are talking about knitting and not weaving).
Knitting takes longer but has the advantage of preserving the material more: given the slowness, there is less friction, it is “softer” for the cotton thread. It's a bit of the signature of the House.
The famous Toki machines, called "Tsuri" (meaning "in suspension"), which are the origin of our sweatshirt.
However, not all the fleeces that Toki sells are necessarily knitted on these machines that the Japanese describe as "slow vintage". Sometimes, the texture desired by the creator is too complicated for these machines that are at least a century old, and you have to go through modern ones.
For those who are more curious, I have already detailed the history of this manufacturer as part of our collaboration with Benjamin Jezequel , more than two years ago. As for Toki's other clients in France, most of them are large luxury houses, the same ones which have their boutiques on rue Montaigne.
Note: the fleece of our gray sweatshirt is denser and thicker than our collaboration with Benjamin Jezequel.
SV for Slow Vintage knitting...
In this case, the product code used internally by Toki to designate the fleece in our material begins with "SV", for Slow Vintage .
The sweatshirt that you will have in your hands therefore comes from these old machines .
This is a factor that Toki is very proud of, making it unique.
It is their age and the slowness of the knitting which creates this heather and these irregularities characteristic of Japanese materials .
And when I say “slow” production, it really is. Judge for yourself: a vintage machine produces between 20 and 30 meters of material per day (more or less 3 meters per hour depending on the machines), compared to several thousand meters per day for a state-of-the-art machine!
Tsuri machines in full (and slow) action.
If you look at the back of the material, you will see a pretty curl, with a typically Japanese finish. Note that we chose not to scrape the fleece on the reverse side, because the result was too sportswear in my eyes: I thought it was a shame to hide the design of the loops. It's quite complicated to describe, but there is a mixture of thoroughness and irregularity.
For us, fleece is fully part of the DNA that we wanted to find, with a very Japanese “controlled irregularity”.
Here, the material is knitted in a tubular manner. Coming from Japan, it arrives in France at our manufacturer where it is cut, then leaves for its production facility located in Romania to be assembled.
Finally, the material was washed at the factory before cutting to stabilize it . It seems simple like that but requires a little logistics, because once it arrives at our manufacturer, it goes to a specialized washer before returning to the factory .
Toki material, guaranteeing the accuracy of the cut
It is a heather cotton that is denser and more compact than average .
For the same fleece surface, more threads are used.
This allows you to have a slightly more structured cut, especially at the shoulders, because the material is less "soft" than basic fleece.
Thanks to its density, the sweatshirt sits well on the shoulders, without a parachute effect.
It will follow your silhouette...
...While offering the comfort we expect from this piece!
An exclusive color
The material development is exclusive: this color did not exist in the quality of fleece that we wanted, Toki specially made it for us.
You know we love light gray in winter, mainly for its ability to “brighten up” an outfit.
It was therefore logical to also go with this shade here, so that even if you wear the sweatshirt with gray jeans, it will always be lighter than the latter.
The “rule of the bottom being darker than the top” (it’s not a dogma eh) will be respected.
It's for its very bright side that we love light gray so much, in addition to being super easy to wear.
Personally, I find that this color really brings out a shirt collar in a pretty material, or a colorful accessory.
An invisible zipped pocket
It's a question that has been on our minds for a long time with Alex: how can we bring more added value to a sweatshirt, in addition to a beautiful Japanese material?
We therefore decided to add an invisible pocket on the right side, with a tone-on-tone zip slider, which blends perfectly into the seam.
Thanks to the tone-on-tone zip faded into the seam, the pocket is almost invisible.
It's a pocket where you can put a small key, your locker room ticket, your headphones, in short, all the things you don't know what to do with when you're not wearing a top with pockets like a jacket.
No risk of being stolen.
Small nice detail: the bottom of the pocket is in heather cotton.
High-end finishes, no amalgam
The choice of ribbing is crucial in a sweatshirt (it's the elastic material that surrounds the sleeves and is found at the waist).
Here, they are knitted in the same yarn and, above all, there is a little topstitching on the sleeve.
The choice and assembly of the ribbing are essential, otherwise the piece would run out of steam far too quickly. Note the topstitching at the top of the edge!
It is a more expensive finish, because it requires an additional operation, but allows the sleeve to be refined while avoiding the formation of a "bulge".
Concerning the collar, we wanted to avoid having an overly sportswear look. We therefore opted for a narrower collar with a more vintage connotation.
How does our sweatshirt size? The important paragraph!
Given the density of the material, and the fact that it is compact, it does not have the same stretch as a lighter, more airy material. The feeling during fitting may seem more "narrow", even if it remains very comfortable.
This is clearly a fitted sweatshirt, we deliberately wanted to avoid the too loose side of 90s sweatshirts. It is therefore close to the body and, if you are regularly between two sizes with us, take the larger one.
What about maintenance?
As usual, put it in the machine with minimum spin. And as always, no dryer. Otherwise it's the katana strike.
How to wear a gray sweatshirt?
If there's one piece that's easy to wear, it's this one!
Today, the integration of sweatshirts is such that everyone can wear them. To the question “Is a sweatshirt suitable for any age?” , the answer is a big yes.
The important thing is to respect a certain balance of cuts and choose a model without frills, so as to maintain a maturity in the look.
Come on, let’s move on to inspirations 😉
Between casual and streetwear, Benoît uses the sweatshirt as a support. He combines it with well-fitted pants and colorful running shoes, strong pieces of this look (MELINDAGLOSS jacket, Le Coq Sportif pants, Nike sneakers).
In a more casual chic style, Geoffrey wears the Toki sweatshirt over a blue cotton shirt. The close-fitting sweatshirt allows you to wear pants with volume. Geoffrey finishes his outfit like Benoît, with a pair of colorful running shoes (GANT shirt, Maharishi pants, Nike sneakers).
Let me introduce you to José, a reader who we were delighted to see take part in the shoot! Her outfit, very casual, is not bland: the grays come in several shades and no two pieces have the same texture. He adds color by simply letting the collar of his shirt stick out and personalizes his look with a succession of bracelets. Also note the khaki of the patinated desert boots, making a pair with character. ( BonneGueule chambray shirt - Japan Line , AMI jeans, Clark's desert boots)
Mix military workwear and sportswear? Everything is possible with a gray sweatshirt 😉. It will always be very difficult to go wrong with a khaki/grey/beige combo. As a result, Luca can introduce a pair of light blue sneakers, adding fuss-free casualness to his look. On the other hand, given the number of colors used and the contrasts on which it is based, it is better to avoid accessories at the risk of distorting the whole. A watch and some jewelry will be more than enough. (Field jacket bought in a thrift store, Louis Purple chinos, Vans sneakers, Lip watch - Himalaya model on NATO strap)
We stick with raw influences with sturdy Kurabo canvas jeans and grained leather boots. It reinforces its workwear inspirations by wearing a white t-shirt underneath, Luca is a big tough guy . For once, the sweatshirt stands out for its softness. Besides, there is nothing complicated! ( Jean BonneGueule - Japan Line , Meermin boots)
We end with Jason, who has just scored a touch-down. All joking aside, in the preppy vein, a sweatshirt will always go well with chinos (even more so if you play with a blue and gray palette). The sneakers echo the sportswear origins of the piece, even if we could just as easily have imagined brogues or Chelseas. Just be careful not to choose overly dressy shoes that clash with the DNA of the sweatshirt. (Chino LePantalon, Nike sneakers)
The Toki "slow vintage" sweatshirt is now available
You can order it now in the shop section .
