For several centuries, man has needed thick fabrics. From conquistador boat sails to army tents, thickness is essential for functional fabrics. We notice that the thicker the thread and the tighter the weave, the better it holds!
This is how canvas, a thick and robust fabric, was born.
As for the origin of the name, one hypothesis gives it a link with the Arabic word "cannabis", because the first canvases were made of hemp.
We can clearly see the tight weave and the very strong thread.
Let's take a leap into the Industrial Revolution in the United States. In the middle of the 19th century, the steam engine did two things:
- Industrialization of textile manufacturing,
- A growing demand for comfortable, durable and weather-proof work clothing, particularly for miners.
American manufacturers therefore began to mass produce canvas to supply this new growing market: it was established for good as THE workwear fabric .
Moreover, before making denim, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis made themselves known thanks to their rivets on canvas pants.
They wouldn't use denim until a few years later.
Ok, but why canvas pants?
Apart from jeans and chinos, ultimately, there are quite few options in terms of pants for men .
Either you have denim or you have a little cotton twill. This is where the canvas comes in:
- It changes !
- And it’s a material that can stay with you for a long time. I remind you that we used it to make boat sails!
And I, who love the grain and texture of a fabric , am well served with the canvas.
That was all it took for Alex to get to work, but with an additional challenge: finding Japanese canvas.
Well yes: the Japanese like grain, me too, and the canvas has grain. It was on track for me to be pleasantly surprised! (QED)
A special weave
It is made up of two warp threads which will intersect with two weft threads. We call it a basket weave. This is where its strength and raw appearance come from.
The interesting point with the canvas and which must have pleased the miners a lot: it ages very well.
It becomes softer, more comfortable, and even smoother, making it less prone to snagging or tearing. Little risk of snags on such a tight weave.
As you wear it, the canvas will soften while remaining durable.
A 13.3oz canvas in natural indigo from the Japanese Maison Dova
A very mysterious weaver
Dova is no exception to the rule: they reveal nothing . They do not communicate to the press, do not hold exhibitions in Europe; it is very difficult to have access to their materials.
Basically: Dova had to want to work with us.
And whether you are a small customer, a young innovative brand, or a large brand with large volumes, it makes no difference.
Finding their representative in France, building a relationship with them, giving them confidence in your project... it’s quite a rite.
It's all about human relationships and trust between "men". This is why very few brands offer pieces in Dova canvas . In short, it is the real Japanese supplier, very famous, but also very opaque and mysterious.
We only know that Dova distinguished himself by creating an artisanal denim fabric, in collaboration with Prada, a few years earlier. The mill was even described as "the most sophisticated denim manufacturer in the world" in the trade press, but this is their only presence on the Internet.
Besides, we thank Dova for believing in us!
Prada x Dova.
For our part, our research confirms the fact that in Europe, they only supply luxury homes. In France, I believe that apart from two or three big names who order their most high-end pants, we must be the only customer in this price range...
All we know is that the reputation and excellence of Dova's fabrics go hand in hand with the mystery that surrounds it...
A very visible Japanese imprint
But the least we can say is that the good taste of the Japanese has struck again:
- If the canvas is normally uniform in color (identical warp and weft threads), our weft threads are gray
while our warp threads are blue . It’s this little trick that helps give a “typically Japanese” visual richness to the material.
- Above all, something rare for this material, the blue comes from natural indigo pigments !
- Finally, all the pants have been washed the first time in the factory, for a soft and soft hand. The pants are therefore more flexible than raw denim .
Concretely, it changes everything. These "details" give it immense potential, creating beautiful color nuances when it fades.
And on my prototype, it has already started:
Beautiful reflections appear like on raw jeans.
Needless to say, I continue to wear mine very extensively to show you the results.
Since the material is durable, I think it will age and fade beautifully.
Always high-end finishes
Alexandre asked for the finishes that you are starting to know well.
The chain stitch
Finish loved by purists 😉
Horn buttons
Horn button, something quite rare on pants.
And the doubled belt loops
No risk of them tearing.
The texture of the canvas, the cut of the jeans
Note that these are pants fitted like jeans - with a "five-pocket" construction - hence certain finishes taken from the world of denim.
It is also made in the same Vietnamese workshop as our Kurabo jeans , because they have real know-how for working with this type of thick, workwear -inspired material.
You will find the ticket pocket...
...And sturdy pocket bags!
Always a flattering cut
We are on our usual semi-slim, with a leg opening of 17.5 cm (on size 30 pants).
The legs are highlighted without being curvy.
We have extensively reworked the cut at the buttocks level: significant patterning work has been carried out at the belt and riser (part between the pockets and the belt) so that it sits well on the back.
How does it size?
First important thing to know, the material relaxes like raw jeans.
So don't hesitate to hold it tight: after a few hours of wearing it, it will already feel much better.
Otherwise no surprise, the sizing is very classic. Just take your usual size 😉
How to wear canvas pants?
As you wish ! There's nothing complicated about these pants, they're a bit like raw denim's cousin.
It can slip into almost all your looks, from workwear to preppy to casual .
Come on, let's look at some looks:
Complete your pants with a sweatshirt and a small pair of sneakers and presto, that's it. You know that we like the luminous appearance of a light gray but you can just as easily turn to burgundy, green, mustard, blue... in short, whatever you prefer. In the case of a navy sweatshirt, consider slipping a white tee underneath to create a little contrast. #tip ( BonneGueule sweatshirt , Converse sneakers - Jack Purcell)
Luca's look is based on a white pants/t-shirt combo, accessorized with a red bandana: it helps avoid a too bland look. In terms of shoes, he chose a pair of derbies but ankle boots would also work. (Muji T-shirt, RRL bandana, Meermin derby)
The leg opening remains suitable for this type of shoe that Luca wears with invisible socks and a turn-up on the pants for a more marked nonchalance.
Here, Jason builds his outfit around the workwear origins of the pants, which he pairs with a brown flannel shirt. Don't be afraid of this color, especially if you're introducing influences from this style. The velvet elbow patches directly echo the brogues of the same color, respecting the overall harmony. Big plus for the big soles, ideal for the rough side. (BWGH shirt, Grenson brogues)
We finish with a more preppy look. Unsurprisingly, the combination of canvas pants and white shirt works very well. The result remains sober although Luca wears a striped blazer, with a rich texture. For once, it is the strong piece of the outfit, hence the few accessories (the white pocket square is suitable because it is neutral). The plum moccasins, reminiscent of the jacket, subtly finish the ensemble. (BG shirt, DeFursac jacket, MR Porter pouch, SuitSupply belt, LIP watch - Himalaya model on NATO strap, Sebago moccasins)
How to get BonneGueule canvas pants?
Canvas pants are now available in the shop .
