For centuries, man has needed thick fabrics. From the sails of the conquistadors' ships to the army tents, thickness is essential for functional fabrics. We see that the thicker the thread and the tighter the weave, the better it holds!
This is how canvas, a thick and sturdy fabric, was born.
As for the origin of the name, one hypothesis suggests that it is related to the Arabic word "cannabis", because the first canvases were made of hemp.
You can clearly see the tight weave and the strong thread.
Let's jump to the Industrial Revolution in the United States. In the mid-19th century, the steam engine powered two things:
- Industrialization of textile manufacturing,
- A growing demand for comfortable, durable and weatherproof workwear, particularly for miners.
American manufacturers therefore began to mass-produce canvas to supply this new, growing market: it was firmly established as THE workwear fabric .
In fact, before making denim, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis became known for their rivets on canvas pants.
They would not use denim until a few years later.
Ok, but why canvas pants?
Apart from jeans and chinos, ultimately, there are relatively few options in terms of trousers for men .
Either you have denim or you have a little cotton twill. This is where the canvas comes in:
- It's changing!
- And it is a material that can accompany you for a long time. I remind you that it was used to make sails for boats!
And I, who love the grain and texture of a fabric , am well served with canvas.
That was all it took for Alex to get to work, but with an additional challenge: finding Japanese canvas.
Well yes: the Japanese like grain, me too, and the canvas has grain. It was well on its way to being pleasantly surprised! (QED)
A special weave
It is composed of two warp threads that intertwine with two weft threads. This is called a woven fabric. This is where its strength and raw appearance come from.
The interesting point with the canvas and which must have pleased the miners a lot: it ages very well.
It becomes softer, more comfortable, and even smoother, making it less prone to snagging or tearing. Little risk of snagging on such a tight weave.
As you wear it, the canvas will soften while remaining durable.
A 13.3oz canvas in natural indigo from the Japanese house of Dova
A very mysterious weaver
Dova is no exception to the rule: they don't reveal anything . They don't communicate to the press, they don't do trade fairs in Europe; it's very difficult to have access to their materials.
Basically: Dova had to be willing to work with us.
And whether you are a small customer, a young innovative brand, or a large brand with large volumes, it makes no difference.
Finding their representative in France, building a relationship with them, giving them confidence in your project... it's quite a ritual.
It's all about human relationships and trust between "men". That's why very few brands offer Dova canvas pieces . In short, it's the real Japanese supplier, very famous, but also very opaque and mysterious.
We only know that Dova distinguished itself by creating an artisanal denim fabric, in collaboration with Prada, a few years earlier. The spinning mill was even called the "most sophisticated denim manufacturer in the world" in the professional press, but this is their only presence on the Internet.
By the way, we thank Dova for believing in us!
Prada x Dova.
On our side, our research confirms the fact that in Europe, they only supply luxury brands. In France, I believe that apart from two or three big names who place orders for their most high-end trousers, we must be the only customer in this price range...
All we know is that the reputation and excellence of Dova's fabrics go hand in hand with the mystery that surrounds it...
A very visible Japanese imprint
But the least we can say is that the good taste of the Japanese has struck again:
- While the canvas is normally of a uniform color (identical warp and weft threads), our weft threads are gray while our warp threads are blue . It is this little trick that helps to give a "typically Japanese" visual richness to the material.
- Above all, something rare for this material, the blue comes from natural indigo pigments !
- Finally, all the pants have been washed a first time in the factory, for a soft and fluffy hand. The pants are therefore more flexible than raw denim .
In concrete terms, it changes everything. These "details" give it immense potential, creating beautiful shades of color when it fades.
And on my prototype, it has already started:
Beautiful reflections appear like on raw denim.
Needless to say, I continue to wear mine very intensively to show you the result.
Since the material is durable, I think it will age and fade beautifully.
Always high-end finishes
Alexander asked for the finishes that you are starting to know well.
The chain stitch
Finish adored by purists 😉
Horn buttons
Horn button, something quite rare on trousers.
And the doubled belt loops
No risk of them tearing.
The texture of the canvas, the cut of the jeans
Note that these are pants made like jeans - in "five pocket" construction - hence some finishes taken from the world of denim.
It is also assembled in the same Vietnamese workshop as our Kurabo jeans , because they have real know-how in working with this type of thick, workwear- inspired material.
You will find the ticket pocket...
...And the sturdy pocket bags!
A cut that is always flattering
We are on our usual semi-slim, with a leg opening of 17.5 cm (on size 30 pants).
The legs are highlighted without being sausage-like.
We have reworked the cut a lot at the buttocks: a lot of pattern work has been done at the waistband and the rise (part between the pockets and the waistband) so that it fits well in the back.
How does it fit?
First important thing to know, the material relaxes like raw denim.
So don't hesitate to take it tight: after a few hours of wearing it, it will already be much better.
Otherwise no surprises, the sizing is very classic. Just take your usual size 😉
How to wear canvas pants?
As you wish! There is nothing complicated with these pants, they are a bit like the cousin of raw denim.
It will fit into almost all your looks, from workwear to preppy to casual .
Come on, let's look at some looks:
Complete your pants with a sweatshirt and a small pair of sneakers and voila, you're done. You know that we love the bright look of a light gray but you can just as easily turn to burgundy, green, mustard, blue... in short, whatever you prefer. In the case of a navy sweatshirt, think about slipping a white tee underneath to create a little contrast. #tip ( BonneGueule sweatshirt , Converse sneakers - Jack Purcell)
Luca's look is based on a white pants/t-shirt combo, accessorized with a red bandana: it helps avoid a too bland look. As for shoes, he chooses a pair of derby shoes but ankle boots would work too. (Muji t-shirt, RRL bandana, Meermin derby)
The leg opening remains adapted to this type of shoe that Luca wears with invisible socks and a cuff to the pants for a more marked nonchalance.
Here, Jason builds his outfit around the workwear origins of the pants, which he pairs with a brown flannel shirt. Don't be afraid of this color, especially if you're introducing influences from this style. The velvet elbow patches directly echo the brogues of the same color, respecting the overall harmony. Big plus for the chunky soles, ideal for the raw side. (BWGH shirt, Grenson brogues)
We finish with a more preppy look. Unsurprisingly, the canvas pants / white shirt combination works very well. The result remains sober although Luca wears a striped blazer, with a rich texture. This time, it is the strong piece of the outfit, hence the few accessories (the white pocket square is suitable because it is neutral). The plum loafers, reminiscent of the jacket, subtly finish the ensemble. (BG shirt, DeFursac jacket, MR Porter pocket square, SuitSupply belt, LIP watch - Himalaya model on NATO strap, Sebago loafers)
How to get BonneGueule canvas pants?
The canvas pants are now available on the shop .
