After having covered the entry-level in episode 1, and the mid-high-end in episode 2, it is time to conclude this comparison with one last part...
Here we are: the “very high end”. The most expensive boxers, and a priori, the most accomplished.
I warn you: in this price range, it is no longer really possible to speak of "good value for money". Not because the quality isn't good enough, but simply because the price is way too high for it to be relevant. For certain models, we could even honestly speak of "luxury", both for the price positioning and for the product itself.
And it's true that these boxers cost an amount that most of us would never dare to put in underwear.
However, at BonneGueule, we love perfectionism and crazy materials, if only for the pleasure of seeing them, and we are always curious to know "what is best", for each type of piece we speak.
So I wanted you to discover, with me, the answer to the following question:
“What product do we buy when we spend more than €50 on a pair of boxers?”
Let's dream a little. Without further ado, I suggest we tackle the...
Very high-end: from €55 to “towards infinity and beyond”
Update 2020:
Because a long-term impression was the crucial element missing from the comparison, the "mid-range and high-end" as well as "very high-end" sections have been updated.
Two years later, what is the verdict? What are my favorite models? The ones that I almost didn't wear? Were there any unpleasant surprises in terms of wear and tear ?
And what about comfort , the full importance of which we only understand through repeated wearing of different models that we compare with each other?
Under each boxer in these two sections, you will now find a “2020 Verdict” which will complete the 2018 test.
Much more personal, less technical, and more focused on my feelings, you will see that it will sometimes contrast with the initial impression.
1. Derek Rose
Price: around €55 (i.e. £50)
We start with Derek Rose, a British brand that specializes in high-end loungewear. That is to say, they offer pajamas and dressing gowns in materials ranging from cotton jersey to very precious cashmere, including silk, and even elegant shearling slippers.
Logically, the brand had to offer a complete range of underwear to complete its offering. I chose to test the "Hipster" model, a short boxer brief, in its "Ethan" version in blue micro modal.
Derek Rose boxer briefs, seen from the front and back.
Touch and hand of the material
10/10 (91% micro-modal, 9% elastane)
Honestly, it's just perfect in terms of feeling. I don't see how it could be better.
The touch is exceptionally soft, supple and fluffy, and despite the absence of so-called "natural" materials, the hand does not feel at all artificial. The material also has the advantage of having a splendid visual rendering, with a beautiful, very nuanced heather blue color. The stretch is absolutely fantastic too (maybe too much for those who prefer a very firm hold, however), and just by touch you can feel how easily it breathes, even in very hot weather.
But then, what is micro-modal? Well, it's a type of modal whose fibers have been worked to be particularly fine, which explains their even more pronounced softness than classic modal, which is already a particularly soft and light material.
And here I have to explain to you what modal is, so... A little explanatory parenthesis.
The very beautiful micro-modal of the Derek Rose boxer shorts.
What is modal?
Modal is a fiber from the family of “artificial fibers” , such as viscose (also called “rayon” in North America), lyocell (of which Tencel, present on Seagale boxers, is a sub-layer). type patented and registered by a brand), cupro (of which Bemberg is also a patented subtype...).
In short, all these materials that you have already seen in your linings, or in women's clothing with a particularly silky and fluid appearance.
What all of these fibers have in common is that they are created from reconstituted plant fibers. These fibers can come from bamboo, eucalyptus, tree bark, soy plants, or even cotton branches... A large number of possible sources, therefore, which explains why they are often presented as ecological (recyclable, potentially using waste from other industries, etc.).
The reason why they are to be distinguished from so-called "synthetic" materials is that even if they are reconstituted as thread from human chemical and industrial processes, the molecular chains which form the fiber are those which have been created by the plant, and nature.
In short, this gives them an appearance, breathable properties and a softness much closer (if not superior in certain points) to natural fibers, to which they are much closer than to "synthetic" fibers, which we could qualify as plastics , or even “petrochemicals” since they are derived from petroleum.
Modal, for its part, is very close to viscose, except that it is worked so as to be thinner and lighter without losing its resistance. Which explains the great softness of this fiber, and the fact that it is used in underwear or t-shirts rather than in linings.
After this parenthesis, you will therefore understand that what makes this material valuable is not so much the raw material from which it comes as the work and innovation behind the processes used to transform it. It is therefore difficult to compare it to merino or very high quality cotton, since for these materials, the initial quality of the fiber does a large part of the work and partly explains the price.
Modal from a technically advanced manufacturer will be much more convincing and of much higher quality than modal from a less competent manufacturer, even though both will use the same kind of fiber as a raw material source.
Regardless, this micro-modal used by Derek Rose is by far one of the best materials I have touched during this comparison, and meets all the criteria of what one could expect from a boxer material. .
Overall appearance and finishes
9.5/10
The finishes of the Derek Rose boxer shorts. I really like the way the belt was sewn. The logo was subtly brought by the brand without giving the impression of being an advertising sign.
Honestly, it's almost perfect. I can't give 10 because I saw a tiny thread sticking out somewhere, and giving 10/10 would be like talking about "perfection", but really, we're not far away. Very fine, very regular seams, carefully placed label, impeccable interior thanks to the material of the boxer shorts which covers the elastic.
Design (Good)
Just the right amount of fantasy so it doesn't become too much either. The white elastic band is covered with small blue seams which form a geometric pattern, arranged all along the waist. The brand's logo is cleverly highlighted by eight small, very discreet tone-on-tone embroideries, forming the corners of the letters "D" and "R", so that it is recognizable if you pay attention to it. up close, but it passes for simple decoration from afar. I would really like to see more underwear brands use these kinds of discreet methods to compromise between their " branding" and sobriety.
And finally, the very beautiful material obviously contributes to the visual appeal of the piece.
Wear test
Super comfort, as the material suggested, and great freedom of movement for those who, like me, find it preferable to very firm support. Note that the boxers are relatively large, since I'm an S here and the M would clearly have been too big.
In terms of cut, we are on an approximately average length (very slightly longer) which will suit most body types.
Worn by a model, in a grey-blue version.
Test after five washes (Good)
Nothing has changed. No complaints !
Place of manufacture and price (Bad)
Another brand that does not write the place of manufacture of its boxers, neither on the product, nor on the shop's sales page.
And at the price it is sold for, I find it intolerable. Especially since it seems far from a coincidence to me, since the label says "Designed with passion and expertise in London" . Yes, okay and... where is it made, anyway?
In short, the only downside to these boxers that I otherwise would have found almost perfect.
The label of Derek Rose boxers. Note the extreme cleanliness of the inside of the belt thanks to the material that covers it... Top!
VERDICT
Excellent in all respects: aesthetics, comfort, material, finishes... But I can't help but remain suspicious of a brand that says so little about the place of manufacture, instead highlighting the "designed in".
However, if this isn't something that bothers you and you have a big budget, go for it, it's a great product.
VERDICT 2020
Thunderstorm ! oh despair! O enemy old age!
These very pleasant (and so expensive) boxers began, after just one year of good and loyal service, to suffer severely from wear and tear , so much so that I can no longer wear them today. The micro-modal jersey gradually tears where it meets the waistband.
In hindsight, this seemed inevitable given the extreme finesse of it , although it could also be attributed to it.
I don't deny that I really liked these boxers and even considered them one of my favorites.
These Derek Rose boxers will therefore, despite all their aesthetic and comfort qualities, be relegated to the rank of “poor value for money” product.
2. Tom Adam
Price : 55€ (UPDATE: 45€ 35€)
Tom Adam gray boxers, front and back.
A small, little-known brand whose only products are the boxers that we are going to test and a swimsuit.
Coincidence does things well: when I started to draw up the list of brands for this comparison, the founder offered to send us a copy to test. Seeing quite expensive boxers, featuring high-end manufacturing and material, I was intrigued by the brand's price positioning. The timing was good, and so I took the opportunity to introduce you to a new brand, quite simply!
Tom Adam boxers in blue, front and back.
Touch and hand of the material
Blue color: 9.5/10, gray color: 8.5/10 (modal 89%, elastane 11%)
Zoom on the material of the Tom Adam gray boxers.
As I told you in the previous episode, two colors can sometimes have quite a different feel on the same material!
This is the case here: blue is extremely soft and pleasant, breathable, with a natural feel.... The 1/2 point that separates it from the micro-modal from Derek Rose is explained by a touch that is not as "fluffy" ". The color is also very beautiful, a “coblat” blue as the brand rightly says, nuanced with small darker fibers.
Gray is more "flat" in its color, and has a less soft, less fluffy hand, although very good all the same.
Zoom in on the beautiful material of the Tom Adam blue boxers. I find it more interesting than the gray one.
Overall appearance and finishes
8/10 Very well done, but not superior to what is done in the price range of the previous episode.
The finishes of the Tom Adam boxer shorts, seen on the gray model.
Design (OK/Good)
This one is quite ordinary, it's a classic boxer brief. But I put "good" on blue because the choice of material gives it a not insignificant charm: it has very beautiful shades, and even some small dark blue threads which are a bit reminiscent of "nep"
Wear test
Very small size: the brand sent me an S and an M, and even the M is slightly tight. However, I can also pass the S without it being ridiculous, it's just uncomfortable. So I would say that the large amount of stretch allows for greater flexibility between sizes. Anyway, size up if you are unsure.
The cut is short, so I don't recommend it for tall people and even those with very bulky thighs. Rather ideal if you are short or possibly of an average height.
In relation to the material, the stretch here is less marked than in Derek Rose for example (despite a higher proportion in the composition), which gives a firmer "hold".
Gray Tom Adam boxers worn by a model. I think the short cut would suit someone a little shorter or less slender.
Test after five washes (Good)
Nothing has changed, whether on the gray or the blue. No complaints !
Crafting location (Ok)
Portuguese tailoring, which as you have understood, is the high-end standard for underwear.
The founder is of American origin (it seems to me), which explains the clumsiness in the use of the word "Petite" to translate "small". A detail that made me smile.
VERDICT
A good, well-finished product with beautiful material, but I still find it a bit expensive for what it is. Modal is certainly rather a high-end material in underwear (compare the prices of the cheapest modal boxers to those of the most expensive modal boxers) but it lacks a little extra something, or a truly superlative quality , which would justify the €20 difference with most of the boxers in episode 2 of the comparison.
UPDATE 11/15/18: The brand has changed its prices and the boxers are now €45. It's already becoming much more interesting!
UPDATE 01/22/19: The brand has further lowered its prices, and the boxers are now €35 each... For such a pretty material and Portuguese manufacturing, it is now one of the best quality/price ratios the most interesting high-end ones!
VERDICT 2020
I am frankly satisfied. Great materials, great colors (which haven't been damaged by washing), no durability issues to report... I've worn them quite often, what's more.
And where the boxer was quite excessively priced at its launch, the brand's two consecutive price drops in 2018 and 2019 have made it a product that is certainly high-end, but well positioned.
However, I will insist on taking the size larger, as indicated during the test, because it really runs small.
3. Zimmerli (“Sea Island Cotton” and “Charmeuse Silk”)
Price: €102 (Sea Island cotton model) and €126 (silk model)
The Sea Island Zimmerli cotton boxer shorts, front and back.
The very last brand in this comparison, and also the most expensive.
“Zimmerli Of Switzerland” is probably the most recognized name when it comes to luxury men's underwear. Like Hanro, the brand has a Swiss history and tradition that goes back centuries (the two houses appear to be historical competitors). But unlike the latter, it has not relocated its production, and continues to offer Swiss manufacturing.
So even if it means going in luxury, I decided not to do things by halves. Here we are going to test two models in crazy materials: a Sea Island cotton boxer, the most precious in the world, and a surprising “silk charmeuse” boxer!
Zimmerli “Charmeuse Silk” boxer briefs, front and back.
Touch and hand of the material
Sea Island: 10/10 (100% cotton) Yes, a cotton material with a softness that is close to that of the softest artificial materials. A very present natural stretch even though the material has no elastane. A rather incomparable hand because its touch is more "true" and authentic than any modal, despite a softness which is not superior.
It could only be Sea Island cotton! As I explained in my article on Kalgati , Sea Island cotton is the rarest (and expensive) in the world, with production representing only 0.0004% of the total cotton produced on the globe. The very specific conditions in which it grows, and the hand picking methods used during its harvest, give it a fineness and fiber length unrivaled in any other cotton.
Zoom on the material of the Zimmerli Sea Island cotton boxers.
Silk model: Impossible to evaluate due to lack of point of comparison.
Imagine that I learned something that I didn't know, with this subject.
“Charmeuse” is a weave specific to lingerie (usually feminine), which gives a final satin finish, very airy and light. It is also found on cotton or viscose, but here, it is indeed silk that is used.
The feel is quite incomparable to that of the other boxers in the comparison. It is not particularly "soft", because the material is woven in a very open way, and the softness of silk is very linked to the smooth weaves that we give it most of the time. On the other hand, you have the impression of touching something close to a linen fabric, but very noble, very satiny, extremely light. And yet quite robust.
The reflections that the material takes on in the light are unfortunately difficult to transcribe in photos.
In any case, everything suggests that it will breathe without the slightest problem, given the openness of the weave. And despite the fact that it's not that soft, the contact of this "silk charmeuse" on the skin is strangely pleasant because it is not felt.
However, the material has a big disadvantage (or advantage, depending on your point of view)... which I will explain to you in the "Worn test" section, below.
Zoom on the boxer briefs in “Silk Charmeuse”. We can see the fairly open weave of the material, as well as the very particular light catchment of the silk, which the photos cannot faithfully transcribe...
Overall appearance and finishes
Sea Island model: 9.5/10
An almost perfect confection. But only “almost”. Here too, an unfortunate seam that is a little less straight prevents me from giving it a 10/10. Does the perfect boxer brief exist somewhere in this world? We'll never know.
The finishes of the Zimmerli boxer shorts in Sea Island. Note the brand name, tone-on-tone embroidered on the elastic.
Silk model: 9/10
Due to the difficulty that working with this very open weave material must represent, the tailoring is not as perfect in terms of seams as on the Sea Island, but remains exemplary. There is no denying the attention to detail: the buttons on the fly are real mother-of-pearl buttons. Yes yes, just that. Very white mother-of-pearl, of the highest quality. On boxers, that's what I call "treating yourself."
The finishes of the Zimmerli boxer briefs in silk, as well as their elastic.
Design (Okay / Good...?)
Sea Island model: Nothing to report, the brand does not stand out in its design, since it is there to assert its status as a historical player, in the mastery of the "classic". The only notable point: the elastic of the boxers has a large size "Zimmerli", but which has the merit of being embroidered tone on tone. Well, it's a little less subtle than what Derek Rose did, but I also understand that customers buying such boxers want the brand to be visible...
Silk model: The style of these boxers is really special. So much so that I couldn't say it's good or not.
The long cut combined with the fly closed with silk buttons are reminiscent of boxer shorts, and at the same time, the material remains snug around the body like boxers. I almost want to say that it’s “boxer tailoring”. The kind of thing you'd wear under a tailored suit, to go all out.
One thing is certain, it won't be for everyone...
Wear test
Model in Sea Island: It's really nice to have cotton like this in contact with your skin.
Apart from that, it's ultimately a boxer like any other once worn. Note the short cut is more suitable for small or medium, and that it runs small: I am well maintained in the M while I sometimes make an S.
The Zimmerli boxer shorts in Sea Island, worn by a model. The photo is honest at the moment, because the central face is lined, precisely to avoid transparency.
Silk model: So... How can I explain... This is the comparison moment where you can laugh a little. Because, when I wanted to test "silk boxers", I didn't necessarily understand the "lingerie" dimension that was hidden behind the concept.
These boxers are therefore... Semi-transparent. We see more or less everything, but a little blurry.
It's more or less like a white 100% linen shirt in summer. So I don't know what to think about it, honestly...
Clearly, this is not the use I expected, but I also imagine that it is a bit intentional. Gentlemen (and ladies, therefore), due to a misunderstanding, I believe that a piece of “luxury sexy lingerie”, for men, has slipped into this comparison. Oh yes.
In terms of fit, the silk charmeuse seems woven rather than knitted to me, so the boxers don't have the usual elasticity of boxers. As a result, it appears much larger than it really is before fitting. But you have to consider that it is a "fit" that you will complete without involving a lot of "stretch" effect. A little more like extremely thin, flexible and light shorts, which you would wear next to the skin, rather than normal boxers.
All that being said, you can't take away from this piece the fact that putting it on is a special experience. You really feel like you're wearing underwear "from another time", something reminiscent of a time when the craftsmanship of precious things was more widespread. For that alone, I think I'll keep it somewhere in my closet.
The rather particular long cut also contributes to this “retro” impression: these boxers reach me mid-thigh! But suddenly with transparency, the considerations on morphology that were made throughout the comparison do not necessarily apply.
In short, advice to amateurs. But in any case, don't wear this if you have to change the same day in the locker room of your gym...
Zimmerli boxer shorts in charmeuse silk, worn by a model. There was a bit of Photoshop on this image, because in real life, it's more transparent than that.
Test after five washes (Good)
Very slight loss of softness on Sea Island, as on all cottons, but the feel remains exceptional.
The silk did not move.
Place of manufacture and price (Good, but...)
The label of the Zimmerli boxer shorts, in Sea Island cotton... Made in Switzerland!
Good, but it's EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE, for both models. So obviously, it’s made in Switzerland.
You noticed that made in France was expensive, and that we found very few of them. Well now, look at how little made in Switzerland we find on clothing. And tell yourself that it is often even more expensive to do.
But on the other hand, unlike made in France, it is so rare to see it on clothing that the few examples of Swiss work that I have seen on textiles, leather or accessories have all been synonymous with good , even of excellent quality. So I don't think that our sector ( unlike the watchmaking sector ) knows of "Swiss Washing" like what we sometimes see here with made in France .
In short, we salute the quality of the work and the preservation of local and historical textile know-how, in a country where it is becoming increasingly rare. But not everyone will take these greetings so far as to take out their wallet...
The label of the Zimmerli boxer shorts, in "charmeuse silk"... Also made in Switzerland.
VERDICT
I do not know what to say. The quality of both boxers is an exaggeration in itself. Their price too. This is more or less the definition of a true luxury product.
And as for what I think of the silk one... Well, I still don't really know what to think of it. Maybe with the right light I... No? Well, no, actually.
In any case, I think that if you buy Zimmerli boxers in silk or Sea Island, you are either very fortunate, or you must come out... as a clothing and textile enthusiast!
VERDICT 2020
These two Zimmerli boxers have become for me the boxers of great days , in a way. Because they are white, I avoid wearing them too often.
- Regarding the Sea Island model: over time, the difference in cotton quality is really felt. Where more standard cottons gradually lose their superb quality over time, this one still seems as soft as new boxers, if not softer. . Sea Island does not live up to its reputation as "the best cotton in the world" , even if the price to pay to have it in your underwear is objectively unreasonable. No durability issues to report in terms of construction.
- As for the silk model, well... I still don't really know what to think about it. I wear it from time to time, particularly when it's hot, for its great lightness, but the feeling is very particular. We feel like we're wearing nothing , most of the time, which is both pleasant and quite disturbing. Like boxer shorts, the woven and non-knitted material offers no support, which is advantageous for comfort, but can pose a visual problem in certain pants. A little anecdote: from the time when boxers did not exist and where almost all pants were made to measure, the tailor would ask his client which side he "wore", in order to adapt the cut and avoid his parts being noticed in certain positions. However, today we are in a ready-to-wear world, and these boxer briefs from the past regularly remind me why the use of stretch jersey in underwear constitutes progress in textile technology...
The final word
“Okay, but concretely Nicolò, do you think such high-end boxers are really worth it? Or even mid-range boxers?”
Well, it all depends on what you're looking for. You will have understood this well throughout the episodes of this comparison: we pay more for a small increase in added value, a slight additional pleasure, a slightly cleaner seam, a slightly more pleasant material...
So unlike leather pieces, a winter coat, a suit, or shoes, no, I wouldn't say that buying more high-end boxers is "making a significant investment". And certainly not that it’s “essential to your style.” Far from there.
As long as you don't buy too bad ones, you'll do just fine with $5 boxers for the rest of your life, and it's quite possible that no one will ever notice the difference.
However, if you are a perfectionist with a passion for clothing, whose entire wardrobe has already reached an advanced level, and you don't want to be left out on your boxers, why not. These are not disposable pieces either, contrary to what some people think, because with respectful washing, you can expect several years of use from well-made boxers.
And if you have the desire and the means to treat yourself to a little unnecessary pleasure, that works too.
Or, if you are very attentive to ethics, to the place of manufacturing and a little suspicious of multinationals that are not always very transparent about their way of working...
In short, I think that each of these reasons is good as long as it is good for you.
Either way, you now have the keys in hand to make your choice, whatever your budget.
Up to you !
