Hi all,
We hope everyone is doing well since our first article . Here is the last part of our loooong series of two articles devoted to our feedback on the creation of the Duke & Dude brand of tracksuit bottoms.
In the previous post, we talked to you about setting up the project, its construction, the choice of intermediaries, prophetic apparitions, the importance of the Business Plan and several other things to get off on a good foundation.
The article is quite long but there is so much to say that we can't miss it, so roll up your sleeves. We stop classes and move on to working life.
One small step for humanity, one big step for man
That's it, everything is theoretically in place, the main lines of the Business Plan are drawn up, almost all the intermediaries are in the starting blocks and the brand image is well defined. Now it remains to do the hardest part: start the first turn of the crank to start the project.
From the start, the main difficulty we encountered was the coordination of these different intermediaries. Everyone knows what they have to do but between the forecast which cannot be finalized until all the costs are integrated (no forecast, no Business Plan; no Business Plan, no financing; no palace, no palace), the need to pay part of the intermediaries while the loan is not yet accepted or the legal creation of the company which remains at a standstill because certain papers are missing, you sometimes have to know how to make concessions. But since we have a great team on the job, we're coming through with flying colors!
More seriously, good collaboration between the different intermediaries greatly facilitates the process. Build a solid relationship and be transparent, it pays off!
If not, how is the design going?
Presentation of the brand to the stylist
The first thing we did was to meet Rabi in Paris to discuss the project. The goal was to give him a presentation of the brand, the team, the ambitions that we had for the company and, most importantly, to outline the guideline that we wish to give to the brand at the same time. at the level of the project, the distribution, the state of mind, the desired price scale and the design requirements (for example, we wanted our jogging pants to be made exclusively of 100% natural fabrics).
We therefore explained to him what Duke & Dude is so that he can have a global vision and know who our products will be aimed at. So of course, no need for a formal Powerpoint and a dark amphitheater, but above all exchange, exchange and more exchange.
We quickly realize that between what we are trying to convey and the interpretation that others make of it, there is sometimes a gap that can be created. For some things, it's not a big deal, but for products, there's no room for error. With Rabi, nothing to complain about, efficiency in its raw state.
If we can give you advice at this level, make sure that the person in front of you understands what you expect from them. Don't hesitate to give him a surprise quiz with marked MCQs or a 2-hour essay on the discussion you had, just to be sure.
After numerous phone calls, Rabi's work could begin.
Creation of the first drawings
- Presentation of the models: Notebook in hand, Rabi presented us with around fifteen drawings based on what has been said over the last few weeks (more than a month and a half has passed to be precise, our schedules did not allow us to see each other earlier). Obviously, some models were more suitable than others, but its goal was to offer us a wide enough panel to then make a pre-selection of the best.
- Pre-selection of models: After a long discussion, we finally managed to agree on 7 designs. To do this, we chose elements from different models and then mixed them and reused them on the selected designs.
- Final selection of models: In the end, we decided to offer 5 tracksuit bottoms , including 2 variations, mainly for financial constraints but also for a question of sizes. For example, we preferred to concentrate on a smaller number of products and thus offer a larger number of sizes. Harming some buyers by only offering S, M and L, for example, was something we wanted to avoid. By reducing our number of products, we were able to offer sizes ranging from
(Sorry for the quality of the photos)
Remember, it’s YOUR brand. Make suggestions, propose things, criticize others, always in a process of exchange, it's the best way to arrive at something qualitative.
Fabrics and accessories
After selecting the different designs, it is time to materialize them. Rabi showed us a pre-selection of fabrics that he found interesting to use for our tracksuit bottoms, adapted according to the season for some, timeless for others. Here are some examples (these are not necessarily the final fabrics):
Following the presentation of his selection, we went to look at different suppliers of fabrics, buttons, ribbons and others to identify the possibilities for accessorizing our tracksuit bottoms.
Knitwear as a strong piece
For the fall/winter collection, one of our products will be made with a knitted fabric. It is a material that is rarely found on tracksuit bottoms and which is nevertheless very pleasant to wear. We wanted to use fabrics that were out of the ordinary, and knitwear was perfect for this. We therefore decided to make this collection our strong piece . We thought a lot about this and asked ourselves the question of the possibility of making it our specialty. However, over time we will see whether this decision is appropriate. The client is king.
Suppliers and sourcing
To tell you the truth, we had several ideas as to where our pants would be made.
Finding your supplier, a real struggle
- France: The first idea was to have our jogging pants made in France. As much as it is something that we would have really liked to make happen, we quickly had to face the facts. Doing the entire design in France required us to charge very high prices, our objective being above all to offer very good value for money , despite our love for France and our economy. Failing that, we were able to find a happy medium. We'll get there.
- Italy: Our second choice was Italy for their undeniable know-how in this area. We found very good suppliers who were able to meet our expectations precisely and who agreed to work with us. Unfortunately, the summer holidays and the priority given to their big clients pushed us to the bottom of the list. If we had wanted to maintain the collaboration with them, we would have been obliged to postpone the launch by several months, which was not possible.
- Poland: After this little blow, no prophetic appearance, we simply continued our approach and went to inquire with other suppliers in other countries. Then, we came across a supplier located in Poland. After extensive sourcing, it turns out that this supplier, in the manufacture of our products, is even more qualitative than those we were able to find in France or Italy and at even more attractive prices. A very good thing since we were able to increase the quality-price ratio by a notch .
Made in France or not Made in France?
Although our manufacturer is located in Poland, we have managed to maintain a large part of the design in France. Most of the elements that make up our jogging pants come from France : fabrics, buttons, claws, pendulums, labels, etc. The manufacturer is there to assemble the tracksuit bottoms.
As a result, the possibility presented itself to us of affixing the Made in France acronym to our labels. For the sake of transparency and because the company selected in Poland is very qualitative (contrary to what some people may think when we talk about Eastern countries), we preferred to keep Made in Poland . There is no desire for us to ride the Made in France wave, the main thing is to be qualitative, transparent and respect ethics.
Coping with timing
Finding the right supplier is one thing, but making sure you meet deadlines is another. And that, we must admit, gave us a hard time. Between this fabric which is available and then in fact no, this button which cannot be ordered in the right quantities, the summer period when businesses close, the supplier who says once yes then another time no, the impossibility of place an order because of an intra-community VAT number problem which postponed the launch for several weeks, we sometimes had the impression that the launch of the store could never happen.
And for good reason, we were forced to postpone it to the end of October, although it was initially planned for September. The hazards of live.
To avoid finding yourself in this type of situation, it is better to have a backup plan, source more suppliers, just in case.
Receipt of prototypes
It's all well and good to have the designs, fabrics and accessories, but the most important thing is the finished product. And upon receipt, the result may vary from what we had imagined, hence the capital importance of having prototypes. When we received them, we were really satisfied with the result, the quality was there, but certain choices on our part sometimes proved to be out of step with our brand DNA. It came down to a few details, but it's the details that make the difference.
Inspecting the prototypes, as you might expect, is a key step. If you have a big budget and time on your hands, you can make as many trips back and forth as you want. Otherwise, have a keen eye so as not to put obstacles in the way.
Unfortunately we did not have time to take photos of the products, we had to send the prototypes back to the manufacturer almost immediately, so the timing was too tight. You will have to wait until the end of October.
Branding is your DNA
The worst thing we can do is to think of our brand only through our products without taking into account all the extras. Although the product is the heart of the brand, its image is reflected in a set of elements such as packaging, the website, photos, the way of expressing oneself or even communication in a more general way. What we sell is therefore not limited to the single piece but must be integrated into a whole.
Everything that revolves around the product must be consistent with the brand image .
If we tell ourselves that we know our brand and that we know what we want to convey, well, we realize that it is not that easy to materialize our desires and maintain this consistency. The thing is that ideas can flow, but they are not always good ones, even the one that earned you an Ola from your friends and a real cult from your family.
So we sometimes have to limit ourselves, even if you have a tear in your eye.
The direction of the brand must be precise so that it is not scattered, so that buyers know who you are and what you offer, whether in terms of products or mindset.
For the record, we showed up one day at the graphic designers with fairly complete and precise specifications for the website, but a brand image not materialized. In less than 5 minutes, they made us understand – we could even say that they kicked our butts, let's not be afraid of words – that we were far from the mark and that we needed to dig much deeper far from that. “Where is your brand image? » They told us. “Well there”, “No, that’s not a brand image guys”. Back to square one.
This applies to all the intermediaries with whom we work: the more precise we are, the fairer their work.
The photo shoot
Organizing a photo shoot is also a lot of work. Of course, it all depends on your ambition. If you want to go for something, let's say... refined, naked models will save you from having to put together the right outfits - the jogging bottoms placed next to them will do the trick perfectly - and a riverside will be a nod to mother Nature.
If, on the other hand, you want something dressy, there is no shortage of elements to take into account, here are some examples:
- What is my brand image and what message do I want to convey? You need to define the general concept of your photo series and know what you want to do with it.
- How many mannequins do I need and what should they look like? The selection is very important and is not limited to choosing a model because he is beautiful. It must also match your brand image. For our part, we tried to choose people who were certainly photogenic, but who also transcribed a certain simplicity, diversity and naturalness that we don't always find in fashion magazines. One, two, ten models? Up to you.
- What will my settings be? Rather from the inside or the outside, from reality or from the studio. For the brand, we chose to shoot both indoors and outdoors in “real” settings. Once we had decided that, we had to go looking for places corresponding to what we wanted: internet searches, traveling, taking photos, etc.
As the shooting takes place in October, we do not currently have the necessary perspective to give you feedback on this, but we will definitely do so when the time comes.
For example, we went to visit a factory in Saint-Gaudens (see below), the landscape really had potential for a small part of the shoot, but we ultimately risk not doing it there and having to travel to Paris. We are still working on it.
Packaging your product: packaging
We told you about it previously, what is around the product is as important as the product itself. Packaging is one of them. It will still be more pleasant to receive your jogging pants in careful packaging, rather than in bulk inside the shipping box. And so far, the packaging has not done us any favors.
After reflection, we took several things into account:
- Differentiate the packaging according to the season (fall/winter, spring/summer),
- Differentiate the packaging according to the period (Christmas, sales, etc.),
- Differentiate the packaging depending on the product sent.
While thinking about box concepts, we looked at manufacturers and suppliers in this area. We quickly encountered several problems:
- either the quantities we wanted to order were too low (the manufacturers required minimum quantities),
- either the delivery times were around 15 weeks (therefore excluding timing),
- or the prices simply did not fit into our budget.
Instead of venturing into shaky commands, we simply said to ourselves: Why not do it ourselves? Well, let's be honest, we're not going to cut down trees with an ax to make our own cardboard or make goatskin bags. We decided to obtain the elements that make up the packaging, and do the work ourselves. Something a little artisanal that doesn't take us too long to send.
In addition to that, we could possibly personalize the packaging according to the periods, the product or the season and thus respond to the problems that we asked ourselves upstream. That still remains to be seen.
When prices, deadlines and quantities are difficult to assemble, you have to find alternative solutions and not hesitate to get your hands dirty.
Here are some packagings which were created by the guys at Limoncello for the occasion, the problems previously stated did not allow them to be produced.
Sell on the internet
What can I do with these products? Hopping on my moped to go door to door hoping to find a kind soul? Throw them out of a hot air balloon with the postal address to send the check? Open a relatively well-located physical store with an average passage of one person per hour?
For our part, we have chosen to sell directly on the internet. Not because the internet is hype and we can watch videos of kittens falling from balconies, but because the internet offers ease of purchase and accessibility to products and calling on resellers can inflate significantly the selling price. And then it must be said, opening a physical store in our name with only five products would not really be appropriate.
A distribution that is going in the right direction
We don't sell jogging pants on the internet like we would sell them in a store. Many of you, if not all of you, regularly buy from online sites and you will agree that there is nothing worse than a product sheet with a single photo without any information. It's normal to know what you're buying, right? In store, you can get information, touch with your fingertips, feel for certain fetishists but above all try it live.
The very essence of “why we are going to buy this product” is to know if we look good in it and if it highlights our dream figure. And that, on the internet, is not a given. Therefore, we must ensure that we give the buyer as much information as possible so that they can make their choice.
This involves photos of the product from every angle, precise information on the materials, cut, size, origin of manufacture, design or even offering the possibility of returning the product free of charge if it is not suitable.
A step that is thought out upstream but also in collaboration with graphic designers and developers through precise specifications and regular project monitoring. And between what we had imagined and what came out of it, it's a bit as if Moses had gone through this, excluding what we believe to be good from the final result.
As usual, it's the discussions that move things forward. Graphic designers and developers are their job, you have to listen to them.
Think “connected”
As with pure distribution, everything must be thought of for e-commerce: the communication strategy, which social networks are relevant to be on, how to establish contact with customers, what packaging is suitable for online sales , and many other elements.
To summarize, but it's no secret, e-commerce is a very specific model and must be understood as such. From start to finish, our entire project was focused on this model and we hope to have captured its essence to offer you something that meets your requirements. It will be up to you to judge.
Everything still remains to be done
Now that everything is almost complete, the hardest part remains: launching the store and creating a lasting brand . The first ideas emerged in January and here we are almost 9 months later on the verge of opening a store, not counting the first half-measure costume project on which we were able to build and which began to take shape in January 2011. Much work has been done since then but there is still more ahead of us. We've really had fun so far. So of course, everything is not easy, a lot of past and future workload, a little constant tension to know if everything is working well, but when you live an adventure in which you have a blast, you honestly can't complain .
Setting up your clothing brand – or having your own company more generally – is a constant involvement, 24/7. We think about it all the time and improvising meetings around a drink, at the table or in the car is a daily reality in our case.
If any of you have the idea of launching your own clothing line, we encourage you to do so without any hesitation. We are still at the beginning and our experience is worth what it is worth, but if you need help, advice or if you simply have questions, do not hesitate, we will answer them with great pleasure.
To conclude, we thank Geoffrey and Benoît once again for this invitation and for having followed the brand since its beginnings, a very nice meeting!
Duke & Dude is a project that is really close to our hearts and we hope that it will grow in good conditions and that men's jogging pants will become part of your daily wardrobe.
Questions ?
Bertrand and Thibaut - Duke & Dude
