When men begin to improve their clothing style and understand the quality/price ratio of clothing, many quickly hit a first plateau: the plateau of ease .
If you feel like you're floundering a bit and standing still in your search for the style that really suits you, then this article should speak to you...
Because I'm going to explain to you why focusing only on value for money is a mistake, and why copying the best looks doesn't result in looks... but in disguises.
The difference between style and just a look
On the left, a coherent outfit that exudes the person's personality since it is not a "look", but a real style built over years. On the right, a pretty array of beautiful, well-chosen clothes, all clean, and no lack of taste... However, what emerges is a feeling of dissonance: "it doesn't sound right."
Why does it work less well?
So many small details and codes imperceptible to the beginner's eye , which mean that on the left it's a big WIN, and on the right a half-FAIL.
- patina and rendering of clothing;
- general appearance and posture , habit of dressing in a single style which may be rich, varied, but coherent;
- compatibility between cuts and silhouette (way of marking waist height for example);
- small personalization elements VS closed collar lacking spontaneity.
But it can happen to anyone ...
What could this young man have done better?
More concretely, the outfit on the right displays neutral colors and well-cut clothes.
But it lacks a bit of warmth and personality when compared to the outfit on the left.
- the shirt closed all the way to the top looks too artificial,
- the hat unsuitable for the face, completely pressed on the skull (and even too big) is a choice that I find awkward,
- the outfit relies too much on all the current fashion gimmicks: hemlines, completely new satchel, super clean pocket.
In short, he thought he was at Pitti, even though he was just on his way to work or to his university.
These are all micro-elements that separate the real look from the disguise , and which can only be acquired in one way: with time and testing.
In a word, efforts; otherwise you might find yourself stuck on...
The vile plateau of ease
But how do we fall into the plateau sign ?
When we follow you through comments on the blog or forum, we often see this kind of progression:
Initially, you want to improve your image, like everyone else... But you don't know where to look.
You buy magazines, you sign up for the most visible commercial services, and you land on the high-margin brands. They are the least capable of offering you value for money, because a large part of the quality budget goes to advertising or distributors.
This is a classic route for most of our readers, before they came across BonneGueule.
Result: big disappointment, and confirmed lack of interest in the style.
The typical look of the great beginner who has not yet done anything to take charge of his image (credits: Chloé Gassian for the Stylish Man's Guide... Even Mal Shaved, Pyramyd editions).
But with curiosity, pleasure, and an objective look, interest returns and you still improve your style a little.
You then have stronger foundations.
It's time to buy the first good basics, the first good experiences.
Generally, at this point, you know how to choose clothes that fit correctly . However, you stay in very neutral colors (blue, gray, white) and in very simple rooms . There is no risk in terms of cut or design. Your outfits are very sober, almost too sober.
Without realizing it, you can still put together outfits that include your “before” clothes, which can make for very slightly wonky outfits . Beautiful jeans, a beautiful shawl collar cardigan, but worn with an old printed t-shirt for example.
You want to go further, and you want to know more!
This is also the moment when you discover us, just like other specialist media, such as Parisian Gentleman or works like Dressing The Man .
And there, you arrive at a rather frustrating plateau ... You no longer progress as quickly, or even at all, even with good will...
It's because you arrived on the plateau of ease .
Aaaaah, so that was it!
Yes, many thought that it was enough to follow an easy and simple recipe. They then only take into account the quality/price ratio and copy the looks they like.
We end up with something that looks like this:
The typical look from the easy set : good, reassuring pieces, but an outfit that lacks flavor and stagnates. (credits: Chloé Gassian for the Stylish Man's Guide... Even Badly Shaved, Pyramyd editions).
Nothing serious, but simply something very soporific... It's always less problematic than falling into this type of disguise :
The typical "stylist pack" look (or the guy who overdoes it): if you're not a painter, it's easy to understand the feeling of disguise... (credits: Chloé Gassian, for the Stylish Man's Guide …Even Mal Shaved, Pyramyd editions).
A balanced look . Almost the same look as the first two, but with substance! More texture, more details, and twists in the way clothes are worn. We could even have opened the collar of the shirt to make it really natural... unless that shy side is really you! (credits: Chloé Gassian for the Stylish Man's Guide... Even Badly Shaved, Pyramyd editions).
How to get out of the “easy plateau”?
Step 1: How to know if you are stuck there?
Here's what blocked readers write to us.
If you often ask yourself these kinds of questions, then you are in this intermediate (and somewhat tricky) stage of your learning.
⇒ They are all the same, since we recommend them. The real question is: which is your favorite? It would be too easy if I could know your tastes for you.
The “best” clothing is not a simple question of quality/price ratio.
⇒ It's not that easy either, because it depends on your tastes, your style and in particular your shoes, your body type (which is not the sum of your height and your weight).
It is not by adding mathematical parameters that you will find: be careful of overthinking .
⇒ Yes, you wanted to buy a style directly, instead of learning how to build it step by step , so that it really suits you. You have to work by pieces to gradually build a style... and not by outfits .
⇒ Introduce me to your sister. It's normal, no one can guess your tastes, especially not a stranger. It’s a very personal thing that gets refined with experience. You feel disguised because you are wearing another person's tastes.
You will have understood, I call this phenomenon the “plateau of ease”, because we stay there as long as we keep a simple thought pattern and as long as we rely on someone else to choose and decide. in its place .
The good news is that getting out of it requires nothing more than a little time and curiosity, just enough to get the subject under control again. I rolled up my sleeves, and I made you a graph:
Come on, we're almost there!
Step 2: change your thought pattern
Start by asking yourself: why are you dressing (really)?
- Case 1 - Do you dress because you like to control your image , because you are curious, to feel good in your shoes and to express a part of yourself through your clothing choices?
- Case 2 - Or are you only dressing out of compulsion , because you know that your girlfriend will complain and that your colleagues will take you less seriously if you don't make an effort? In other words, do you only dress for others?
Your turn: take 30 seconds and think (really) about both cases.
- If you are in case 1, congratulations . Maybe you won't even know this zone where we stagnate and search for our style.
- If you are in case 2, be careful . Because dressing for others means dressing according to the taste of others (or even by others). In the end, we no longer project a true image of our personality. And, above all, getting dressed is no longer really a pleasure.
When you know that it is by this criterion that people judge the most (it is the only criterion directly accessible), you might as well take your style in hand. Your image is too important a matter to risk delegating it to someone else.
“Now I know: I want to dress to express my personality”
Perfect !
So you will have to choose clothes according to what is valuable to you .
Step 3: Gather the clothes that suit you
“Clothes that reflect my values?!”
Eh yes. There are lots of ways to buy your clothes.
If you think about it, buying products is all about small daily votes that promote companies and consumption patterns that are important to you. It is, ultimately, the most direct form of democracy: influencing brands by distilling your values into your purchases.
Moreover, the Anglo-Saxons have a much better expression than ours: they do not speak of quality/price ratio, but of " value for money " , that is to say the material AND immaterial value of a thing, in relation to the money you spend to acquire and support it.
“What are these different criteria of value?”
Here are the main criteria for the value of a garment, in the order that matters to me. But it will undoubtedly be different for you:
- quality (durability, finishes, clean finish);
- social responsibility (working conditions, local purchasing, provenance, distribution of value, protection of know-how, corporate citizenship);
- personal tastes (this seems obvious, and yet this criterion is often put aside by beginners, due to lack of confidence in their own judgment);
- utility (do you really need a blazer if you're a student? Or luxury sneakers if you don't really know how to wear them? In short, will this purchase "pay for itself"?);
- price (do you consider your style as an “expense item that must be as low as possible”? On the contrary, do you consider that creativity and design have a price that you are willing to pay?);
- comfort/practicality (will you be comfortable? Will the garment match your lifestyle in terms of comfort, style, or ease of maintenance?);
- environmental responsibility (carbon footprint, respect for ecosystems, respect for animals);
- uniqueness of the product (it is acceptable to spend more for a product with a strong design and which you have a crush on, if the amount remains reasonable);
- fashionable aesthetic (“cool” and contemporary product).
We end up with a histogram type graph with fries.
Your turn: try to rank your own value criteria.
Try to see clothes as something other than clothes, because it's a very rich subject .
They are vectors ! They are a gateway to stories, know-how, technologies, cultural and artistic movements...
Step 3bis: a new game for you: smart shopping
Now try to imagine building your mudroom as a game .
To earn the maximum points, the garment must excel in the maximum number of criteria!
Here again, we easily draw a parallel with a video game (in bold the reason why you are dressed, and, underlined, the characteristics which correspond to it).
Replace strength/magic/spirit with style/comfort/strength and you get the idea!
The personal example of my smart shopping
Constraints
- I pay particular attention to the quality of my clothes (I don't like having too many so I want them to last);
- I have tastes affirmed by passion and by my professional activity;
- I often move from one environment to another, office, lunch with entrepreneurs, evening with my girlfriend. The clothes must therefore be useful/versatile, contain zipped pockets in particular, they must be easily rolled into a ball, they must not crease too much, etc.;
- besides that, they must be comfortable because I ride scooters often. Especially since a lot of pants are unpleasant for me because I have good thighs.
Solutions
My glasses, very classic models from Persol in tortoiseshell effect acetate ( 3007V, color ref 24 ). I tested a lot of glasses at the optician, you have to be patient. But I think I finally found this shape that suits me very well. It's a matter of matching the face, they won't suit everyone.
A Velva Sheen (or Merz B. Schwanen) t-shirt . They fit me perfectly. No matter how badly I treat them (I'm very careless with t-shirts), they don't move because they contain a little polyester and are thick, which suits me since I sweat very little.
I alternate with a Japanese chambray shirt when I have a somewhat formal meeting, like a banker or an important conference. On the other hand, I go there in sneakers: a little personal pleasure.
My gray Catherine Michiels sweatshirt.
My karang DROMe biker jacket: it's THE item of clothing I prefer, I wear it almost half the week, I'm crazy about it. I waited patiently for 3 years before being able to buy it on sale, but it was my obsession piece: perfect cut, unique texture.
Maharishi custom pants , well tapered at the legs but comfortable at the thighs. These are the perfect pants for me. I have three and plan to buy all the colors little by little.
A dark brown python belt from L'Aiglon . The color goes with everything, the length lends itself to both jeans and suits. I was able to buy two at the time (brown and black at 70% off so it was definitely worth it).
Pull In boxers (because they're comfortable, durable, and they really make me laugh because they're so kitsch, and it annoys my girlfriend).
My sneakers with reptile effect in collaboration with National Standard which lighten the outfit and which are very comfortable. When I'm lazy or I'm late, I take the ones from the first version (sold out for a long time) which have a zip.
When it rains a little, I switch to Atelier Voisin ankle boots .
And when the weather is very, very ugly, with snow everywhere and nuclear explosions, I take out the big Heschung rangers from four years ago (they no longer exist from the brand).
Step 3bisbis: no, I’m just kidding 🙂
Because BIM! Without noticing it, you have just found your style!!!
Hey bam! A look that finally suits you!
The summary of the pieces that I presented to you: BonneGueule shirt, DROMe jacket, Maharishi pants, and then the Atelier Voisin ankle boots.
Of course, the clothes I chose to show you are not the only ones I own.
But now that I have found what suits me, I tend to only vary the textures (replace the chambray shirt with Oxford, or Maraharishi custom pants with similar pants from GANT or Marchand Drapier), while adjusting according to the weather.
On the other hand, the silhouette remains generally the same:
BonneGueule shirt, DROMe jacket, I add the Benjamin Jezequel sweatshirt, and I swap the previous bottoms for our technical pants with sneakers.
There, I change everything except the DROMe jacket: the silhouette remains the same. Hast Japanese oxford shirt, APC black jeans and Lanvin sneakers.
Still the same kind of look in a mid-season version, based on the same BonneGueule shirt and sweatshirt base, but with a cotton jacket, our Kurabo canvas jeans and Axel Arigato sneakers in pony-style calfskin (= with hair) and with python-style printed patterns (sorry) for more originality.
One last thing: the constant in all these criteria is that I have big problems with exotic leathers you never asked yourself what you wanted to project onto others, or what you wanted them to think of you . Because deep down, we don’t care 🙂
You simply dressed according to what you like and according to your aesthetic, practical, professional needs...
In the second part of the article...
In the second part, you'll find more tips to get out of the easy plateau even faster, to really start finding your style and flourishing with clothes.
This will be a very practical article:
- how to trust your tastes?
- why work by pieces and not by outfits?
- why DO YOU HAVE to make mistakes?
- there will even be ancient Chinese wisdom: oh yeah!
See you soon !
