File: how do brands advertise today?

"Anyway, don't believe it: you only pay for advertising ." Who hasn't heard/said this sentence?

Whether it applies to the purchase of perfumes, clothes, telephones or cosmetic products, it reveals the capital importance that advertising has for a brand.

We are obviously not going to dwell on how L'Oréal sells its miracle creams, but rather try to understand why and how fashion/luxury brands invest millions each year in their advertising campaigns.

Advertising, what for?

Advertising is there to show . To sell afterwards, of course, but its primary function is to expose. A collection, a watch, a universe, a name. It transmits to its receiver a multitude of messages that are more or less subtle, but always cleverly thought out.

That being said, not all brands have the same primary objective when they communicate. Let's establish a simple distinction between luxury and other markets.

Advertisements for "mainstream" brands

For most consumer brands, the marketing objective (triggering the sale) is often very clear and visible. The campaign is then created around the receiver (the consumer) based on their habits and their codes.

Often, the aim is to reach the widest possible audience : H&M targets fashionistas as well as customers who have little interest in clothing and want to get dressed, most often, for a few euros.[/bg_info].

The brand will then combine the fashion/style aspect with a crazy casting and dream landscapes, while displaying an absolutely ridiculous and very enticing price . That being said, we can quickly have very "standard" campaigns, without much interest other than to shout "We're not expensive!"

Luxury Marketing

In luxury, things are different. Let's be clear: if "communication" exists, it's good for selling overpriced bags with an 80% margin, at least for the majority of brands. Except that we're not going to go through classic marketing...

However, this is not done in the same way when we talk about "luxury" products. Indeed, more than anything else, dream capital constitutes the most important sales driver.

Some theorists like Jean-Noël Kapférer believe that each time a luxury brand sells a product, it takes with it a bit of the brand's dream capital. This theory is easily verified: top-selling brands like Vuitton or Gucci have lost a lot of their shine...

Finally, it is important to know that the "quality" of communication brings much more to a brand than notoriety.

Loro Piana, Seraphin or Zilli are very little-known brands, but nevertheless extremely recognized. On the other hand, Dolce & Gabbana is a very well-known brand although often poorly perceived.

Hence the importance of not doing just anything and of respecting certain accepted rules for creating a "real" luxury campaign:

• No prizes (ever),

• If possible no or very few faces,

• The product, the logo and the linguistic elements are the crux of the matter.

The consumer's imagination must find its place in each campaign.

The special case of perfume

The case of perfume ads is special. The product bears the name of Maisons Haute-Couture but, at the same time, it is a very non-discriminatory product and accessible to everyone . Which side of the scale does it lean towards? Both.

On the one hand, advertisers will bet on the magic of the brand : sumptuous dresses, exceptional settings and, of course, glamorous muses. The image of a star makes the greatest number of people dream while remaining familiar, and therefore not completely inaccessible.

On the other hand, advertisers do not hesitate to pull the big strings of mass marketing : forget the specialized press and confidentiality, long live the mega TV spot in the middle of the rush before the 8 p.m. news.

You have to "cast your net wide" so to speak, betting exclusively on image and notoriety, because you can't smell a juice through the screen or describe a fragrance. The dream around the name on the packaging then becomes decisive.

And we can even ask ourselves the question of the real role that perfume itself plays in the act of purchase: there has always been a very strong correlation between the recurrence of an advertising campaign and sales. In other words, those who are most on TV are (often) those who sell best in perfumery. We only have to look at the success of Paco Rabanne, Thierry Mugler or Jean-Paul Gaultier...

What media should I use to advertise?

Several channels can be communication supports in the fashion sector. I suggest you scan the most widespread ones, just before seeing examples of beautiful campaigns!

First of all, we can obviously think of "print" campaigns : on the glossy pages of magazines, but also on ugly billboards in the streets, brands display faces, landscapes or emblematic pieces.

They allow excellent targeting, particularly at the level of the specialist press.

TV campaigns are reserved for "mass" brands or cosmetic product lines. Indeed, unlike paper campaigns, advertising spots are absolutely not selective: they reach everyone. In any case, everyone who has a TV, and there are a certain number of them.

Social networks have also become an extremely powerful channel. A real boon for brands, who have easy access to their customers. Special promotions, events, new collections: this sometimes even replaces a newsletter!

Luxury, for its part, has hesitated for a long time. Supposed to be inaccessible, exceptional, it becomes on Facebook or Twitter ultra accessible, very immediate and, moreover, "standardized" by the unique format of the pages.

However, with the constant evolution of these networks, luxury brands are rediscovering two fundamental elements for them: experience and personalization , now possible in particular on Facebook.

Facebook, for example, offers fans the opportunity to access exclusive content, watch live videos... In short, to enter the brand universe in a significant way. For some, it is also possible to send messages and find a more individualized relationship with the brand .

Finally, we must not forget an extremely impactful medium: the event .

I want to talk, among other things, about the parade: the media coverage, the "fantasy" created around these very select events are ultra effective.

We can also think of private presentations, exhibitions...

Today, we are going to focus mainly on print campaigns because they have the enormous advantage of having to capture, in a single shot, a whole multitude of elements that the brand wants to convey...

Which now brings us to how campaigns are created to reflect the brand .

Campaign analysis: how do you decipher an advertisement?

I propose to you a decryption of two campaigns perfectly respecting the codes of luxury dominated by the dream . This will give an overview of the way in which one can analyze an advertisement, before seeing more briefly later other examples given by theme.

Between dream and reality: the cases of Piaget and Hermès

As you read above, the word "advertisement" is taboo in luxury: let's all agree by recognizing that campaigns allow brands to address the consumer. If some choose to feature "stars", others rely on a very high-quality aesthetic as well as on the suggestion of personal codes.

The world of jewelry and watchmaking is undoubtedly an excellent student, rigorously following the rules of luxury communication . The high value (both artisanal and financial) of the items sold partly explains the absolutely central place of the product. Piaget, a famous watchmaker, constitutes an interesting case study.

The House's label is proudly displayed in a starry night that becomes darker and darker as you get closer to the top of the poster, while below it appears the city of London, clear, clean... urban. You will notice that night often comes back on the posters: what better time to daydream?

The city embodies a certain art of living, a modernity and above all a certain refinement: the clientele who travel will associate their experience with the product.

The watch runs from top to bottom across the poster, which is not insignificant. By discovering the image from left to right, the bracelet starts from the city - life, reality - to take us little by little towards the sky and the stars - the dream.

This is the impression that we find in the text "Perfection in Life": the notion of excellence embodied by the dream is brought within the reach of the receiver and therefore of the future (potential) client. The "in" is important: it makes reality the container of this part of the dream.

Making the watch appear in such a large size allows the receiver to clearly perceive the rubies, the hands and the many visible mechanisms. What do these elements evoke for you? Craftsmanship of course, the precision of the watchmaking profession, its nobility, its rarity: this clearly displays the values ​​and the image that Piaget wishes to convey.

No grandiose scene, no explosive colours, no superfluity . Everything is cold, dark and above all frozen: we are outside of time.

Finally, we will emphasize an aesthetic neutrality allowing all targets to project themselves into this hushed universe: the Indian billionaire or the British aristocrat each have very different lifestyles and sensibilities, but must be able to find themselves around the brand universe and the product .

Exploring the Tale Between the Natural and the Supernatural: The Case of Hermes

The French trunk maker wants to be the paragon of extremely refined simplicity... The House loves antonyms and makes no secret of it. Illustrated with a selection of representative photos.

The smoke of a supernatural brightness illuminates the snowy roof on which a man walks immersed in his reading. Then, the brand appears in its legendary orange, unrolling the slogan " Life like a tale ".

Visually, the oppositions/contrasts are linked to each other: the dark night and the light in the sky, the shadows on the roof, the lit windows, the dark walls... The smoke, a priori more down-to-earth than a mist, nevertheless generates a mysterious atmosphere.

The character is dressed in a very sober way, immersed in reading a book without text that is intended to be a metaphor for his own dream. He embodies a solitary figure, that of a hero. We are in a fantastic register, where magic takes place in reality, where anyone can become the main character of a story .

The entire campaign was built around this theme: the shot above is even more eloquent, still with a dark and foggy sky, a very ambiguous moon and the mythical balcony scene.

The tie is one of the most striking codes of the Hermès identity, while the character, dressed all in black, is another vision of a hero, bolder, darker. Note that the ground, symbol of the rational, does not appear here either...

Life as a tale . As for words, dream and reality are linked using the comparative "like". The desire to blur the boundaries between the imaginary and the real becomes obvious.

We are in the presence of a "metaphor" of the act of purchasing : acquiring a Hermès bag implies living the experience of ultimate luxury, first in the hushed atmosphere of the boutique (at least when it is not invaded by hysterical tourists), then through the product whose exceptional manufacturing makes everyday life marvelous.

But not all advertising is so subtle...

Sport, sex and the good life: recurring messages in advertising campaigns

After analyzing two "model" campaigns, I suggest we take a closer look at some examples of the themes/messages regularly used in fashion advertising.

Sport and dynamism: an increasingly marked bias

While sports brands are obviously justified in building campaigns that excessively use action codes, the sportswear trend has integrated all ranges.

No one will be surprised to see Lacoste offering campaigns where movement is at the center of everything: the models are suspended in the air, the ground is absolutely not visible. Dance, football, running, jumping: many disciplines are suggested here.

A pale background, like a sky, contrasts with the bright and sparkling colors of the outfits. However, a little like Hermès, Lacoste suggests the lightness of reverie with the mention "A little air on earth".

Yohji Yamamoto's second very sporty line, Y-3 still offers an architectural conception of movement . We are getting closer to an abstract photograph, almost like a work of art.

The opposition between blacks and whites creates a strong contrast accentuating the dynamism of the image. The conceptual spirit comes out well, the "cleanliness" of the image serving an almost scientific conception of design.

Berluti is having fun here by linking its very sartorial spirit to the world of sport. In a successful second degree, we find the artist Maurizio Cattelan splashing around in a swimming pool in a shirt and tie, his precious shoes placed on the diving board: the product and the brand dominate the consumer. This relationship, increasingly rare, is nevertheless essential in luxury.

Another shot illustrates a running step and a certain tonicity: the classic codes are thus shaken up, almost ridiculed. The objective is then to reach a younger, more "modern" target.

“Sex sells”: when brands have no limits.

Catch the eye, shock, create a buzz: old recipes still work!

Let's get straight to the point with the very special elegance of Tom Ford. The Texan-born designer has long reigned over Gucci, making it a paragon of bad taste and vulgarity.

For the occasion, Carmen Kass' crotch becomes an advertising space with a logo, while a belt becomes a "metaphor" for the male sexual attribute.

No need to rack your brains: it's all about striking, shocking, and a pair of spread thighs always hits the mark.

The height of good taste for Dolce & Gabbana was to stage... a rape We find a cold and sober decor, in contrast with the oiled bodies in warm tones.

The message, very badly placed , questions the limits of "porno chic". A concept which is a nice hoax intended to differentiate itself from the negative image of sex used to sell while the recipe is similar.

Even Dior, once the symbol of French elegance, was massacred with thongs and latex by Galliano. Gisele Bündchen in full masturbation expresses an eloquent pleasure.

The allusion to pleasure will be found especially in campaigns aimed at women, notably for cosmetics (perfume, shampoo, etc.).

The brand wanted to get rid of its classic image and its old clientele by falling into an assumed subversion, even if it meant denying all the codes that made Dior famous.

Transcribing a way of life through advertising campaigns

Italy is a country whose values ​​and customs nourish a powerful imagination. Enough to inspire many brands.

Italian refinement, between sobriety of cuts and sophistication of materials. The Ferragamo house occupies a unique place in the luxury sector and, in my opinion, is worth the detour.

His campaigns ride on a noble vision of the dolce vita: sun, palm trees, a vintage car, in short, a film set!

The codes of a certain aristocracy are there, between the conservatism of the male figure in charge and the affirmation of an adored, sexy and mysterious leading woman.

The brand - although Spanish - Massimo Dutti draws a lot of inspiration from Ferragamo, particularly with this campaign . Cars and old trunks: iconic objects evoking a certain Italian art of living and escape.

The "modernity" of the jet in the background, as well as the slightly sepia filter, suggest a timeless cliché : it is ultimately all the codes of luxury that Massimo Dutti takes up, although this does not give any illusion as to the quality of his products.

Always very eloquent, the Dolce & Gabbana campaign turns out to be much more sober than the previous one. Mama, ragazzi y bellissima ragazza: all the clichés of Italy are there.

Particularly inspired by Sicily , the Italian duo focused on campaigns shot directly in typical villages, even using non-professional locals.

A whole imaginary world that is useful for building a flattering image of a 100% Italian brand and gaining support after a few years of wandering.

A new underlying trend: short films

Let's briefly mention the new trend of short films . It involves a brand creating a film, either directly featuring its products, or - as is often the case - telling a story in the broad sense. This format immerses the recipient in a story in a much more immersive way than any print: good old brand content !

The most successful example is French, since it is the famous Odyssey of Cartier created for the 165th anniversary of the House. Through a "video fresco", the brand has bet all in on the affirmation of a very strong universe, revisiting the highlights of its history.

First, there is the panther , a famous icon of French jeweler. The story begins in Paris.

From a beginning marked by cold and silvery colors, the video evolves towards warmer colors and more noble materials (gold, diamonds, etc.) : a movement in which the passage of time brings us closer to excellence.

White horses, the majestic architecture of St Petersburg and the Tsar's carriage: Cartier recalls the Russian crowns' enthusiasm for its creations, while associating a symbol of power with its name in the receiver's head.

The rings rolling in the snow are from the "Love" collection, created for Jean Cocteau: the subtlety is less here, the product's presentation can be a little crude.

We then go to China, the land of dragons and, therefore, chimeras. At the exit of a fantastic cave housing goldsmith pieces "more real than life" (metaphorically), the panther appears in a sumptuous Indian palace perched on the back of an elephant, symbol of wisdom.

The plane picks up the panther at the moment when a square watch worn by the aviator is seen. It is the Santos model, now a true legend.

It was indeed for the French aviator that Cartier literally created the very first wristwatch, as pocket watches did not allow one to read the time while flying.

At the same time, you will have recognized the flattering codes of escape and the conquest of the sky.

Finally, back in Paris, on the roofs of the Grand Palais, across the Place Vendôme... these almost universal symbols of luxury that it is essential for the brand to appropriate.

A case closes on the panther and on a cold beauty dressed in red, in a misty atmosphere: in marketing language, understand " each Cartier jewel contains its share of dream" .

The advertising message is "relatively simple", the exceptional execution alone justifies the craze around this spot. And even if the millions invested in this spot aim to feed the brand universe and make it always desirable to the consumer, we have here a superb work!

Finally, here are two other interesting types of clips, in a different register.

Chanel: the story of audacity

Gabrielle Chanel is portrayed at a very young age, already portrayed as a strong and coveted woman. A film in black and white, the favorite colors of the most famous designer of the last century.

And with "Inside Chanel", the brand has created short clips detailing one by one the codes/signs of the fashion house: a video that you can find on Youtube and is a must-see for enthusiasts!

Prada's advertising delusions

Prada likes to intellectualize its fashion to give it substance (and given the manufacturing process, it needs it). The Italian brand therefore regularly offers clips illustrating a strange and psychedelic delirium, artistically very interesting!

Conclusion: Brands and Advertising

In short, even if the purpose of advertising remains to boost sales, the approaches can differ. If ready-to-wear remains "incisive" with incentives such as price, luxury seeks more to play on the dream to strengthen its brand image . It should be noted, however, that the line sometimes blurs, in one camp as in the other.

At a time when the use of social media is becoming widespread, the field has already been invested by brands. In addition to advertising as we understand it, it is an excellent vector of customer relations and a good way to unite your community, while activating a lever of exclusivity.

A new form of content, brand content, is becoming increasingly present. The media are variable, often in the order of short films or reports. Putting less emphasis on the product, it draws the customer into the universe of the brand , thus strengthening their connection with it.