The sunglasses guide

Le guide des lunettes de soleil
How to choose the right sunglasses, the stars of summer accessories? Style, brand, different types of lenses, frame material: we help you find the ideal pair.

In May 2024, we released our own pairs of sunglasses in collaboration with Lesca, which you can find right here .

Among the different fashion accessories, sunglasses have a somewhat special status.

In addition to bringing a good dose of style, they benefit from a very strong collective imagination: once on the nose, you want to think you are Tom Cruise in Top Gun, or Tyler Durden in Fight Club.

Beyond their practical aspect , sunglasses immediately bring a touch of refinement. You are both elegant and (a little) casual : enough to enhance and spice up your spring or summer outfits.

It's a piece that you choose without haste, you don't acquire it without a certain number of fittings .

How to navigate the different types of glasses? What material should I choose for the frame? Which style should you choose? So many questions that we are going to answer. Follow the leader.

tyler durden sunglasses oliver people
tyler durden sunglasses oliver people

Above Brad Pitt, wearing a pair of 523s from Oliver People in the cult Fight Club (1999).
Credits: Fox 2000/Regency.

Protection index

Let's start with the essentials . When purchasing, you may be tempted to buy the first pair of sunglasses that suits you, without dwelling too much on the technical details. A serious mistake!

We too often favor the aesthetic aspect over the functional aspect, where your glasses must above all protect you from ultraviolet rays .

“Besides, do all glasses with dark lenses really protect from the sun?”

No. UV protection has nothing to do with tinting the lenses: some almost transparent lenses can be sufficiently protective, while some tinted lenses provide no more protection than a pair of prescription glasses. What you need to look at is the quality of filtration of harmful rays .

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For example, this Mose XL model from the Lesca brand has rather transparent lenses, and its UV resistance is 100%.
Credits: Lesca.

There are several levels of protection, ranging from 0 to 4:

  • Level 0 : a category to avoid, because there is simply no protection against the sun's rays. This type of glasses meets a purely aesthetic need. If you must opt ​​for a pair of sunglasses in this category, it is to hide you from the gaze of others or to conceal your dark circles. Otherwise, you might as well opt for higher levels of protection.
  • Level 1 - 2 : a category bringing together “mid-season” models, suitable for average light conditions and more suitable for urban use. They are useful to be worn on days of moderate sunshine, at the beginning or end of the day but also indoors. If you have to choose between 1 and 2, you might as well choose category 2 lenses.

One of the advantages of having a glass with a protection index that is not too high allows you to have a certain transparency of the glass. This then allows people to see your eyes and facial expressions, making your face appear more alive.

  • Level 3: Level 3 lenses are suitable for bright light conditions. They are perfect for full sun in the city, at the beach, or in the mountains. You know when the sun is glaring and stings your eyes.
  • Level 4 : here you will find models adapted to the most extreme uses, whether in high mountains, or places with exceptional solar luminosity. Lenses at this level are so protective (in terms of opacity) that it is illegal to drive while wearing a pair. You don't need level 4 lenses for urban use. Yes, it’s not necessarily the highest level that is necessarily the best!

If you can afford it, it may be worth having glasses with level 2 and level 3 lenses. This will allow you to alternate depending on your needs.

uv index chart sunglasses

This table specifies the uses of sunglasses according to the levels of protection. UV transmission corresponds to the percentage of rays passing through the protection. Finally, you also have the symbol affiliated with each category.

The CE mark is another criterion to systematically check. If it is present on the case or pair, this certifies that these glasses comply with European legislation , both in terms of construction and anti-UV performance . This mention also requires the manufacturer to attach detailed instructions, in French, with maintenance advice.

Making sure you invest in quality: the choice of lenses

The ideal is to choose a glass capable of blocking the passage of UV rays, respecting the colors as faithfully as possible and having good optical quality. There are several types:

  • Mineral glass : made from natural compounds, they are easy to clean, rarely scratch and offer high optical quality, without distortion. Their main disadvantage is their slightly heavier weight than other types of glass.
  • Organic glass (or CR39 glass) : these are synthetic glasses, therefore “plastic”. It is lighter than mineral glass while being very resistant. However, it is more sensitive to scratches.
  • Polycarbonate glass : it is the thinnest and strongest type of glass (10 times more resistant than organic glass), while maintaining its lightness and excellent protection against UV rays. This is the perfect type of lens for sports sunglasses, or for children, who are necessarily more vulnerable to ultraviolet rays.
  • Polarized lens: the type of lens providing the best possible correction, if you already have to wear glasses on a daily basis. The polarized glass will block the reflections that bother you in sunny situations. UV protection is also ensured.

Be aware that the type of glass is not necessarily recognizable to the naked eye, so it is important to find out about the nature of the glass from the seller. If your optician (or the sales page) does not know how to answer this question, you must flee quickly .

Good mouth
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Right: A pair of sunglasses with polarized lenses, Hexagonal Flat model from Ray-Ban. Credits: Ray-Ban.

Left: A pair of sunglasses with polycarbonate lenses, Castel model from Oakley. Credits: Oakley.

Treated glasses

In addition to the composition of the glasses, you can request that they benefit from special treatments . But be careful: while some prove to be very useful, it all depends on how you use your glasses.

Here are the main treatments that can be useful for a pair of sunglasses:

  • Anti-scratch : it reduces the wear of the glass and thus extends its lifespan, so it has all its practical usefulness.
  • Anti-fingerprint : it makes the surface of the glass hydrophobic and lets water slide off. Antistatic, dust and fingerprints are no longer a problem and cleaning the lenses is easier.
  • Anti-fog : it solves once and for all this problem of condensation when you enter overheated rooms or humid places. Recommended for all motorcyclists.
  • Thinning of the glass : it reduces the thickness, lightens the weight of the glass and provides more comfort and aesthetics. This avoids the “bottom-of-the-bottom” effect. Thinned, the lens is also better inserted into the frame, and provides a finer look.
  • Tinted lenses : the principle is to filter part of the light rays which make up so-called “white” light to minimize visual discomfort. This is a mandatory condition on sunglasses.
  • Photochromic lenses : they will darken to respond to the light intensity and adapt the sun protection accordingly. Very practical if you often change environment (indoor/outdoor). On the other hand, they are useless in the car, because the windshield will filter the rays necessary for the glasses to function.
Good mouth

We can clearly see that Tobey Maguire didn't take the time to thin his glasses!
Credits: Marvel/Laura Ziskin/Columbia Pictures.

Tinted glasses

Tinted lenses have different effects depending on the color chosen:

  • Gray : it restores a natural vision of colors in any sunny situation.
  • Brown : it increases contrasts and reduces glare. Can create visual discomfort because of the darkening, which is rather strong on this shade.
  • Yellow : it will significantly improve the perception of contrasts when the light is low (in fog or forest, for example).
  • Green : it protects against glare in all conditions, without darkening the result.
  • Pink, red or two-tone : these fancy colors will only bring a touch of exoticism to your vision but should not be considered as serious protection in the sun. The contrasts are very limited: you see everything less well and they can damage your vision if the sun is strong. Be careful!

Tinted lenses can also add a little extra to your outfit, depending on the style you have chosen : warm colors (like yellow, orange, red, etc.) will give a vintage look, while cooler colors will be more suitable for a more contemporary or streetwear style.

oliver people tinted glasses

There, a relaxed man, with a pair of red-tinted Oliver People on his nose.
Credits: Oliver People.

Be careful though, it is important to remain subtle. On such a visible accessory, it is important to respect the notions of colorimetry and contrast.

If necessary, we have already coveredthe subject of glasses color in this video . More generally, we also talked about color here, where Nicolo teaches you how to combine them .

Which material to choose?

As with lenses, there are types of frames for each use. Keep this in mind when purchasing: your sunglasses must be suitable for the use you will make of them . Each use has its type of mount, as we will see here.

Ultra-resistant and lightweight frames: for the most sporty

If you are looking for glasses to wear for sports, you should favor materials that are light, strong and do not oxidize.

Titanium is for example used in aeronautics, automobiles and even surgery, because it is more flexible than most commonly used materials, it does not oxidize and above all it is much lighter. Its weight/impact resistance ratio is exceptional.

Aluminum is the most versatile , because it is light, stainless and resistant at the same time. It is the ideal alternative if you want to get closer to the properties of titanium at a lower cost.

Carbon fiber is also a serious option . Lighter and stronger than steel, a carbon fiber frame is designed for (very) long-term use. Thanks to its fiber structure, the pair benefits from perfect elasticity, thus absorbing shocks.

zerpico carbon sunglasses

The V4 Square from Zerpico, for example, offers a sporty design with carbon fiber, but also a more casual touch when looking at the frame.
Credits: Zerpico.

roka titanium sunglasses

The Square Aviator model from Roka, with a titanium frame. We appreciate the timeless design.
Credits: Roka.

Durable and aesthetic glasses: a good alternative

If you are looking for an aesthetic finish without skimping on quality or durability , there are two rather interesting materials:

  • Cellulose acetate : it is an artificial material made from wood or cotton fibers. The manufacturing process gives a unique appearance to each frame, allowing the creation of an infinite number of colors . We can also easily replicate certain natural materials with acetate, the best-known example being turtle shells. On the other hand, its complex manufacturing logically increases the final price. Hypoallergenic, resistant but also flexible, acetate is one of the preferred materials of high-end houses for their optical line.
  • Wood : although the appearance may not suit everyone, wood nevertheless offers many advantages. It is a durable material , resistant to shocks , and which above all offers a certain originality to your look.
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acetate_sunglasses_daniel_wellington_1080x1920

Right: The Cain model, from the high-end brand Lesca, in cellulose acetate. Credits: Lesca

Left: The Ambler model in bio-acetate from Daniel Wellington, both raw and minimalist. Credits: Daniel Wellington.

holzkern wooden sunglasses

The Austrian brand Holzkern offers a range of wooden glasses, right between relaxation and originality.
Credits: Holzkern.

You will have the choice among different types of wood, even if not all have the same price. For example, walnut or rosewood will be more expensive than bamboo or oak, but they also offer incredible finishes.

Glasses with good value for money: for small budgets

You can also find happiness in more affordable materials such as plastic. Glasses are certainly less durable and (sometimes) less neat in terms of finishes, while remaining completely acceptable alternatives in a relevant wardrobe. Thanks to technological progress by manufacturers, we now find a diversity of frames made of plastics of all kinds. As is often the case in life, you have to distinguish the good from the bad .

If you lose often your pair , or you change frames often, this is probably where you will find what you are looking for.

ray ban nylon

For example, this 100% nylon Ray Ban frame offers an appearance close to cellulose acetate, but at a more attractive price. Credits: Ray-Ban.

Nylon is, for example, a very good choice if your budget is limited: it is a flexible and strong material, which offers many possibilities to the manufacturer. If made well, nylon sunglasses can compete with their metal or wooden cousins, at least from a stylistic point of view.

maui jim huelo nylon glasses

The Huelo model from the Maui Jim brand has a 100% nylon frame, bringing a touch of modernity.
Credits: Maui Jim

Beware of counterfeiting!

On the Internet, there are many counterfeit high-end sunglasses . Beyond the harm that the counterfeit market causes to brands and manufacturers, the consumer also finds himself harmed . The vast majority of counterfeit pairs offer no protection against ultraviolet rays, and some are made with unauthorized materials because they are carcinogenic or irritating.

It is therefore essential to know which merchant you are dealing with: do not hesitate to find out about reliability by investigating the stores that interest you.

While a pair at -30% or -40% of its original price may tempt some people, it is essential to keep in mind that purchasing a counterfeit product will do you more harm than anything else. The pairs never last long , the design is mediocre, if not crude . You are worth much better than that.

For more information on this subject, do not hesitate to consult the site “choisir-mes-lunettes.com”.

What style of glasses to choose?

Beyond the lenses and materials chosen, the question of style arises! How can you be sure not to make a mistake?

The advice that follows is for informational purposes only, and should not be taken at face value. Sunglasses are like clothes: you have to try lots of brands, depending on what you like. However, you should favor high-end brands, which will be best balanced and fall best on the face.

The 4 rules of the face

Before focusing on the shape of glasses, there are a few rules to know that wearers of prescription glasses may already know.

1. The eyebrow : certainly the most important rule. The frame should be below the eyebrows, at the edge of the top of the frame so that facial expressions can be seen.

lesca_glasses_guide_607x317

The risk when the eyebrow is always above the frame is to look like a constantly surprised owl. Credits: Lesca

2. The orbit : the eye must be centered following the 2/3 – 1/3 rule: neither too central nor too high.

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3. Cheekbones : glasses are worn on the nose, and in theory should not go down to the cheeks (unless the frame has large lenses). When they rise when you smile, the frames are said to “cry”.

4. The ears : the frame must be aligned with the ears, the temples must not extend too far beyond the sides of the face.

But as with clothes, if you like to wear oversized glasses, it is perfectly acceptable not to completely respect these rules. The main thing is that you are comfortable with it.

A shape adapted to the morphology of the face

It is generally advisable to refer to the shape of your face when choosing your pair of glasses. To obtain a harmonious result, the shape of the glasses must be reversed to the shape of the face. They will “break” the shape of the face.

For example, if you have a round face, opt for a thin, rectangular pair . On the contrary, if your face is very square, go for round or oval shapes .

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@Masunaga - Aquila SG model.

On the contrary, if your face is rather square, opt for round or oval shapes .

jacquemariemage_square_sunglasses_880x1134

@jacquesmariemage - Leclair model.

brad pitt once upon a time in hollywood

Brad Pitt, in Once upon a time in Hollywood (2019). In the 1970s aesthetic of the film, the aviator glasses look great on dear Brad's rather square face.
Credits: Columbia Pictures/Polybona Films/Heyday Films/Visiona Romantica.

If you have an oval or rectangular face, it is easier to wear any shape of glasses , since the proportions will (in theory) be more consistent.

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Right: @lescalunetier - Corbs model

Left: Here, the versatile face of Ryan Gosling in Crazy Stupid Love (2011), with a pair of Selima on his nose. Credits: Warner Bros/Carousel Productions.

Of course, if a pair suits you without perfectly respecting these rules, then don't stop yourself from taking it. On the contrary ! We believe that accessories, and in particular glasses, must be chosen according to your tastes, your feelings, and not only according to very factual criteria.

If you can't determine the shape of your face - which often happens - don't despair either: feeling plays a key role in choosing a pair of glasses .

The best advice we can give you is to try and try again to find out what suits you, and to know what type of sunglasses fits best into your style.

A color in harmony with your hair, your complexion or your eyes

A color in harmony with your hair, your complexion or your eyes

You will rarely make mistakes by choosing sober colors and for once, black is allowed!

Generally, it is not recommended to match the color of your frame to your hair (or by default to your skin, or your eyes), so that the contrast is pleasant to the eye . If you have light hair, or a light complexion, prefer brown or tortoiseshell frames. If you have black hair, any color should suit you.

vallon waylon glasses

Here, a pair of sporty sunglasses, the Waylon model from the Vallon brand. Credits: Vallon.

Finally, remember that dark colors will further harden the look and assert your personality , especially if you have light eyes , where light colors will soften the look and harmonize the face .

And There you go ! You now have all the cards in hand to choose the pair of sunglasses of your dreams. We have given you several tips, but the most important thing is that you try it for yourself, knowing the important points not to overlook.

Do you see more clearly? Do not hesitate to give us your opinion on the question in the comments, we will be happy to answer it .

Rémi, BonneGueule contributor

Curious and passionate. Admirer of vintage leather goods and insatiable discoverer. I like to walk the streets of a city to discover each boutique.

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