A fan of the Carhartt brand since my college years and my skater days, I'm still crazy when discovering each new collection.
This is precisely what is fascinating: Carhartt is a brand that has evolved over time (notably with the launch of the Carhartt WIP line, we will come back to that a little later) and which has therefore accompanied me throughout. of my “youth”.
Of course, I have matured and my style has evolved. However, I always buy Carhartt parts.
This test is an opportunity to look back at what workwear style really is, and to trace the evolution of this brand. I will end this article with the Carhartt test of 3 pieces from the spring/summer 2014 collection that I selected on the Menlook eshop.
Workwear style: solidity, comfort and functionality
Workwear experienced a real boom from 2008. Perhaps following the recession in the West, which pushed people to become more pragmatic and rationalize their spending.
With the decline in their purchasing power, they are starting to consume fashion differently, and going to the basics: they need simple clothes in which they feel good and which will accompany them for several years. In other words, people want basics again, solid, functional and hassle-free . A victory of practicality over aesthetics.
Photo from the Carhartt Fall/Winter 12 lookbook
(Heritage line, even more high-end, but rare in Europe).
For my part, I have always favored comfort over aesthetics and believe me, this gives rise to lively debates in the team, notably with Benoit who often repeats to me: " Alexandre, your t-shirt is not suitable. the right size, look at the shoulder seam !” or “ Alexander, these pants are too wide, look at the volume of material on the bottom of the leg !”.
In fact, if I appreciate workwear so much, it's because comfort is one of the fundamental pillars of this style . The cuts are loose and the materials used contribute to this feeling of comfort (who doesn't feel good in a t-shirt or a wool shirt?).
Thus, the workwear style corresponds to many body types . You don't need to be a model size to put on your wool flannel shirt, a t-shirt or raw jeans.
Solidity and functionality are also characteristics of this style. Indeed, the workwear style is inspired by the clothing of workers and farmers. People for whom clothing is a work tool that accompanies them on a daily basis and must not betray them. Workwear brands must therefore offer solid and functional pieces.
With this kind of advertising, workwear is at its quintessence.
But what I love most about this style is the freedom of expression it offers people . Here, fashion codes are turned upside down: you put a t-shirt under your shirt (a shirt that can be worn oversized), you make a big hem on your jeans so that they rise well above your work boots...
Whether the shirt is 7 points per cm doesn't matter, nor does it matter whether the sleeve head is positioned exactly on the shoulder bone. The main thing is to feel good in your clothes.
This is an example of a perfectly mastered workwear outfit.
Photo credits: The Sartorialist.
Be careful, it’s not about doing anything either! The rules for combining colors and superimposing materials must always be respected! The oversized , for example, has its limits: forget the baggy and the t-shirt with the sleeve that ends at the elbow. Finally, workwear enthusiasts have a real product sensitivity: they like beautiful materials and beautiful finishes.
Workwear lovers love canvas
Japanese selvedge with a chain stitch .
Forget the “100% lumberjack” style and get things straight
(Luca sans S recently admitted to me that he wears this type of fleece in the middle of the winter season...).
You don't have to dress entirely in workwear and can simply introduce a piece into your outfit. It could be a lumberjack shirt, raw jeans, or a big pair of Redwings to start: don't hesitate to go one touch at a time.
Carhartt: from construction worker clothing to the Carhartt Work In Progress line
Today, you often see men and women in the street with a Carhartt beanie like this:
Don't ask me for this lady's number,
she is not part of the BG team
(and the photo was not taken in our favorite part of the Trail).
A hat that has quickly become a fashion accessory ( note from Geoffrey: and which will probably disappear quite quickly too ). But behind this simple hat, there is a pioneering brand in workwear style: Carhartt.
The Carhartt story
Carhartt was founded in 1889 by Hamilton Carhartt in Detroit, Michigan (now headquartered in Dearborn). Basically, it is a brand specializing in work clothing for railway workers. Since 1830, the city of Detroit has experienced a significant industrial boom with the establishment of numerous factories (including the legendary Henry Ford factory, from which the Ford T would come out). The city is even nicknamed “Motor Town”! Many manufacturers set up there to take advantage of its advantageous geographical position, because it is located on the Great Lakes waterway.
The Ford factory today, in Dearborn, a suburb of Detroit.
The activity began in an attic with four sewing machines and five employees. The first item of clothing produced was overalls made of denim and cotton canvas (also called "duck" in English, from the German "doek"). Unfortunately, the beginnings are difficult. Hamilton therefore revisited his copy and decided to team up with a railway engineer to develop the ultimate product: durable, comfortable and functional overalls, also available in denim or cotton canvas.
The Carhartt overalls still remain a great classic today
for all workers (available for less than 70 dollars!).
We can clearly see the practical aspect with the reinforced knees,
the pockets, and the width of the legs to be able to squat.
Hamilton makes it a point of honor to offer good working conditions to its employees and to engage with unions. The products are thus stamped “Union Made” and “Craft with pride in the USA” . The quality of the products and the redesigned marketing strategy with the slogan “Honest value for an honest dollar” allowed sales to take off. A whole range of work clothing will be created.
Railway worker cap with "Union Made" label
(photo credit: www.vintageworkwear.com).
European growth of Carhartt
In 1994, the brand began to be exported to Europe under the “Work In Progress” label. Europe is therefore discovering a small selection of Carhartt products from the American workwear offering. The success was dazzling and in 1997, the Work In Progress label was founded with a first collection, available exclusively in Europe.
This “Carhartt Work In Progress” collection is created under license. Carhartt therefore keeps an eye on these collections and ensures that its values (durability, comfort, functionality) are always respected. Collections with redesigned cuts (more elaborate and closer to the body), with more diversity in materials, and pieces simply adapted to an urban lifestyle.
Carhartt WIP Collection (Fall-Winter 12).
Carhartt WIP collection (spring-summer 14).
Today, there is therefore a real separation between work clothing and the Work In Progress line (only recently available in the USA). Work In Progress has collaborated with many leading brands. My favorite collaboration is the one with the APC brand
On this collaboration, the “C” of APC
is replaced by the Carhartt logo.
Carhartt Work In Progress brand review
To carry out this test, I chose four pieces: a parka, an Oxford shirt, beige chinos and a belt. The idea was to show a complete outfit. For my part, I think that you can dress in workwear without being likened to a bearded lumberjack.
Note from Geoffrey: Alex was tied up against his will
to shave his beard, but he managed to escape.
Carhartt Club Pant chinos (beige, 95 euros)
Chinos are a basic in men's wardrobe. It replaces your raw jeans. Personally, all my chinos are from the Carhartt brand: I like the cut, the material and their solidity (I still wear models bought 4 years ago).
In addition, Carhartt offers a wide range of colors and cuts with each new collection. For this test, I'm wearing Club chinos (straight cut), in a 9 oz 100% cotton twill weave.
I wear it with Nike + APC high sneakers
The chinos could have benefited from a little touch-up on the leg length (you can clearly see the fabric piling up on the sneaker). However, I like the visual effect caused by this excess volume of material (eternal debate!).
Finally deep pockets! Ideal for slipping your smartphone in 🙂
(you can see the tips of my fingers on the bottom of the pocket)
Well-finished piped pockets
(both edges are the same height and very flat!)
Let me be clear: the Carhartt chinos are nothing exceptional (I still appreciate the clean finishes and details). But I know that in several years, and even after several dozen washes, the pants will not move and the color will remain well fixed. Excellent value for money (notably available on Menlook ).
I wear the Parker braided belt (55 euros, available here ). It is made of 100% polyester with leather inserts/finishing. I've been looking for a braided leather belt for a long time and this one fulfills its role perfectly!
The Carhartt Clink Oxford shirt (79 euros)
I chose the Clink shirt in 100% cotton blue Oxford. I find the perfect color, because it goes just as well with raw jeans as it does with chinos. The cut is very good (Benoit even validated the size!).
I wear all my shirts outside of pants so I pay close attention to their length (see article on here.
The shoulder seam is in the right place 🙂
(note: Benoit now requires everyone to unbutton the second button from the top, including the hairy ones on the chest).
For this price, the buttons are plastic.
The shirt has two patch pockets with well-marked reinforcement points. As you can also see in the photos, the stitching contrasts well with the material (we have 5 stitches per cm, which is normal for a casual shirt of this type).
At the level of the shoulders and the sleeve head, three lines of stitching reinforce the solidity of the piece.
I find the value for money decent, but don't expect incredible quality oxford fabric (I find the fabric a little rough).
The stitching is clear and regular: it is sober and clean.
Nice detail: the pocket pen that allows you to slide a pen in!
We have here a real nice swallow as reinforcement.
The Carhartt Mason Jacket parka (199 euros)
Simple in appearance, this parka turns out to be more complex than it appears.
It is 100% very thick cotton poplin (and the hood is lined). A fabric to which a “wax” treatment has then been applied (to obtain an oilcloth). This makes the fabric water repellent.
The water-repellent process is a finishing operation which aims to make textile articles non-wettable by water while remaining permeable to air (so as not to sweat underneath). Having tested it in real conditions, the Carhartt Mason parka will keep you dry in light rain, nothing more.
As soon as the rain intensifies, hurry to take shelter, because it is far from being as effective as a waterproof (or better: water-repellent) fabric.
The cut is good: neither too slim nor too wide. You can easily slide a thick layer underneath. Once buttoned up to the top and tightened at the bottom with the knot, you really feel isolated from the outside! The sleeves are even adjustable at the wrists.
The four patch pockets with flaps are very practical for slipping in your wallet and other transport cards... The lower pockets are divided into two locations: the first easily accessible on the side, and the second from the top by unbuttoning the pocket.
Appreciable finishes: the buttonhole
is reinforced with a cotton band.
All buttons are resin. Practical, the buttonholes have eyelets: this allows them to be opened and closed easily (even with one hand!).
Recognizable eyelet buttonhole
to its widening on one of the ends.
Last important point on this parka: the ventilation hidden under a back yoke, with mesh interior (the photos will speak for me).
Mesh is a technical material that allows for better ventilation and heat regulation (it is often used for sports clothing).
Here we can clearly see the mesh.
I found the price of this parka a little high. However, after a quick overview of the offer, it is one of the best value for money that I have found, so it remains very honest for its level of quality. It is available here.
Conclusion of the Carhartt Work In Progress test
Carhartt is a great value brand that offers great basics. It successfully combines the three pillars of workwear:
- Durability: the pieces will last a long time and will not move when washed.
- Comfort: I am comfortable in all my pieces, even when fitted (of course, fans of extra slim will have difficulty finding what they are looking for).
- Functionality: all the pieces are well thought out (pockets, eyelet buttonholes, mesh ventilation, etc.).
And don’t worry, wearing a cap is not obligatory 😉
