Flashback to 2009.
BonneGueule has only existed for two years, I'm still a student and I haven't even met Geoffrey. BonneGueule does not yet represent a third of my life.
But my passion for clothing is already there. I spend many hours every day dreaming about lookbooks from brands that aren't even distributed in France.
I dream of traveling the world and its best stores, to see all these clothes "in real life", to try them on, to wear them, to see "what it feels like". I had a candor that I still try to cultivate today.
So who is this strange brand that makes waterproof, breathable rain gear that you can wear with a tuxedo?
And through my discoveries of unknown brands, I came across Norwegian Rain. The brand impresses me for its clothes with a tailoring sensibility, with very elegant designs, which brilliantly combine Japanese technical materials.
T. Michael and Alexander, the amazing duo behind the brand. The founder is Alexander, and it was he who came to seek out T. Michael for his tailoring know-how.
Obviously, no store in France distributes this brand, and I wonder if I will one day have the chance to try one of their pieces.
It's completely out of my student budget at the time, but I just want to put one on, see with my own eyes how that famous hood falls, and what these technical Japanese materials look like that the brand is so proud of.
The kind of product explanation that makes me dream!
Many years later, in 2014, during my first Pitti Uomo in Florence, I rushed to their stand to finally see the brand in real life. Intimidated, I don't dare talk to Alexander and T-Michael. Let alone try on one of their clothes.
Impossible to miss them at Pitti, T. Michael and Alexander are regularly photographed. Image credit: the excellent Well Dressed Dad .
But there it is, I know what it looks like. I can say on the forums “yes, I tried a jacket!”
And in 2015, for the opening of our first store in Paris, we want to distribute some brands that cannot be found in France. Obviously, I immediately think of Norwegian Rain.
Without knowing it, and to my greatest surprise, we then became the largest French distributor of the brand. I'm taking this opportunity to make this old dream come true: becoming the owner of a Norwegian Rain.
And obviously, I hasten to test it here .
This is the model I tested in 2015, and obviously, it had to be in the rain!
But contrary to what I thought, my relationship with this brand was not going to end there…
Seeing the excellent reception you gave the brand in our Parisian store, it was time to consider an idea that was almost too good: doing a Norwegian Rain collaboration.
So without really knowing what to expect, I'm flying to Bergen this spring with Luke and Jason, for the photo/video part, and Céline, for the product part.
A photo that is very close to my heart, taken in the Norwegian Rain flagship.
What was it like meeting Alexander and T-Michael?
And suddenly, at the corner of a street in Bergen, T. Michael appears…
Well, our meeting started with… a game of pétanque!
Yes, you read correctly, Alexander and T-Michael systematically begin welcoming a business partner with a game of pétanque on the heights of Bergen.
So it's barely out of the plane that I find myself pointing, shooting and making tiles.
I had come to Norway to see two ultra stylish designers, with great tailoring know-how, who are distributed in the most beautiful boutiques in the world, and I found myself playing a good old game of pétanque from our region.
Passion for pétanque, on the heights of Bergen.
Fun fact 1: They are planning champagne and glass glasses. I know it sounds silly saying that, but taking the trouble to take something other than plastic cups, I think it's really a great show of attention towards us.
Fun fact 2: T-Michael and Alexander, always like true gentlemen, nevertheless point out to me that we are at this moment theoretically in violation: in Norway, it is forbidden to drink alcohol on public roads when you are not not in a bar.
I will never forget that moment : the sun is setting over the mountains surrounding Bergen, it's nice, we're laughing while playing pétanque, and I have a hard time realizing what's happening. pass. Me who discovered this brand almost ten years ago, and who thought that I would never have the chance to try their clothes, let alone spend two days with the two designers.
What are T-Michael and Alexander “in real life” like?
Honestly ?
They are like in the video: very cool, and with a certain charisma. We were very well received, they have a “gentlemen” side which, I think, is very well conveyed in the video.
A little “behind the scene” which was a very pleasant moment for me. I just had to ask them all the questions I wanted! That's where Alexander told me that they like to create clothes with features that users won't necessarily notice at first glance.
They are two very great creative people : you just have to see how much Alexander likes to choose unusual accessories and hats, and above all, his taste for pants with a very original cut!
As for T. Michael, he is a big fan of the art of tailoring , and he likes to hunt for vintage military clothing, because he is very inspired by certain functional details, like this comfortable and unusual seam on the armpit of a Japanese military jacket, or these straps to wear around the thighs for their rain cape.
Alexander told me some pretty funny anecdotes about T-Michael:
- in almost 10 years of collaboration, he only saw him once with something other than a suit, when T-Michael was painting at his house,
- he systematically takes the plane in a suit, and he carries his suits in a leather bag that he designed himself,
- he dresses in a suit every day, even on Sunday!
- when he comes to Paris, he likes to drink glasses of wine sitting on the edge of the Saint Martin canal, always in a suit,
- and he did a TED Talk!
T. Michael is laid back. All the time. Every moment.
What does the Norwegian Rain store look like?
After having appreciated the brand for so many years, you can imagine how much I was waiting for this moment! I was very excited to see the Norwegian Rain Temple!
This is a must-see if you go to Bergen (a very pretty city, perfect for a relaxing weekend).
Not only is it decorated with great taste (as we suspected), but it was an opportunity to see the many original colors used by the brand.
T. Michael is also showing his own brand , it's unstructured tailoring, with really nice colors. This is perfect for those who love the costume, but want something original, whether in the colors used or in the concept. Since he is very attracted to Japan, you will also find this curious kimono there.
That’s it for this (long) introduction.
For those who are completely unfamiliar with the brand, I am not going to write the story of Norwegian Rain here for three reasons:
- Alexander and T-Michael talk about it very well in the video, with lots of anecdotes,
- I have already clarified this aspect of the brand in my 2015 test,
- and I promised Christophe, our chief editor, not to write an article of more than 6000 words, because you will see, I have a ton of things to show you.
Why did Norwegian Rain decide to collaborate with us?
In the past, they have only done two collaborations: with Grenson for waterproof shoes and with the Dutch brand Denham for a parka. So we are very honored to be the third.
Norwegian Rain x Grenson for waterproof shoes without membrane! In fact, under the leather, they used a technology that helps prevent water from getting inside.
So why did they agree to work with us? They talk about it in the video, and to put it simply, the article where I tested the brand did not go unnoticed.
They are also aware that their products require two things:
- lots of explanations about their clothes in store
- a clientele that is much more curious and passionate than the average , always eager to learn new things, and attracted by the technical aspect
It's timely. We love explaining clothing, and you love understanding it! I'm not exaggerating, it's a point that was decisive for them. And finally, if we are doing this collaboration, it is thanks to the welcome you have given to this brand.
Finally, unexpectedly, the report on Inis Meáin impressed them. They were sensitive to our desire to go there to fully immerse ourselves in the world of the Irish brand.
Our raincoat: the ultimate rainwear
Our collaboration, carried by T. Michael himself!
What could we call this garment? An English word would be perfect: a raincoat. Or to be even more precise, a "short straight trench".
The length comes from their peacoat, but this model from our collaboration does not have the characteristic double-breasted buttoning of a peacoat.
The specifications of this raincoat
T. Michael demonstrates it brilliantly: yes, it is entirely possible to wear a three-piece suit with our collaboration!
Obviously, we needed a piece that could be worn with a suit (yes, yes), sneakers or a sweatshirt. This is why we did not start with a double-breasted trench coat, which could have been a little too restrictive for people who have a very casual wardrobe.
In terms of color, we think that for the vast majority of future owners of a Norwegian Rain, it will be their "first" garment of its kind, both urban, elegant, and uncompromising in terms of technical performance.
It is a garment that should be worn with a gray or dark suit, in a professional setting, as well as with work boots and thick chinos.
As soon as you leave your house for a walk, this collaboration should be obvious to you.
Your new best friend
Alexander wants a Norwegian Rain to become your best friend for going out, and that even if it's not raining, you wear this garment for the outdoors . And if it rains, it's a bonus!
This is why we decided to develop a tailor-made navy blue. Don't worry, if you look at the material closely, it will be very slightly mottled, it is not a plain navy blue.
And finally, last important point, we wanted to offer this collaboration at a price never seen before for a Norwegian Rain. But before talking about the price, let me introduce you to this unique piece…
Features galore…
When it comes to rain gear, the most important element is the hood. And to my great joy, T-Michael was not stingy with explanations.
The ultimate hood
Basically, T-Michael, being the good tailor that he is, hates hoods . And he almost demanded to make clothes without hoods to join the Norwegian Rain project.
For him, it was therefore a big challenge to create the only hood that he would agree to wear .
A hood, which as you will see, is full of resources…
And he approached this central element like a tailor, that is to say by paying particular attention to the volume, and playing on the fit of the materials. He told me that it had taken him a long time to develop this form, and that it had been complicated.
And the result when worn is great. I wouldn't lie and say that this is probably the best hood that will ever sit on your head. It sits really well, wraps your head perfectly, and the mini visor evacuates water wonderfully.
Thanks to the material used, the hood "stands on its own", because T. Michael has intelligently exploited both its rigidity and flexibility.
T-Michael wanted adjustment possibilities but above all no cords or stoppers, nothing reminiscent of sportswear.
It is therefore a whole set of press studs which allows you to adjust the depth and the way in which the hood sits on your forehead.
Ultimate detail 1 : he managed so that the adjustment of the front, even if it is "all the way", is not visible from the outside, hidden by the hood. It's quite difficult to explain in writing, but you won't have the "tightened hood" effect on the face like you have on a classic sports jacket.
Ultimate detail 2 : the hood is completely removable, but not with a zip (T-Michael hates that). He also wanted that without a hood, we wouldn't notice that something was missing. These are press studs hidden by a mini collar which secure the hood.
Since the attachment point of the hood risked being seen, and to secure its attachment, a button (made of horn!) holds the hood. And all the buttons that follow along the collar and that attach the hood are snap buttons.
Ultimate detail 3 : in order to keep this collar firmly placed on the pressures to be hidden, it is held in place by a leather tab. For a long time I wondered what it was for and I had to go to Norway to ask to get the end of the story.
The tab, which is used to roll the hood into backpack mode, is also used to hold the small collar in place. If you don't see the snaps in this photo, that means it's doing its job well!
You may have noticed another leather tab on the hood: this allows it to "roll up", like some backpacks. This, Alexander admits, is for those who like visual originality and who want a slightly more fun way to store their hood when it's not on their head.
T. Michael wondered how to wear his hood in a more "visual" way, he thought of this system!
Notice to amateurs!
Personally, I don't use it, but know that it's possible!
And the storm flap?
Ah, this famous tape that you can place in front of your face. It's an element that I don't use much, but that I find really fun to use.
It's not just on our collaboration that they have fun with the storm flap, on all their shoots of their models, they like to place it in a "graphic" way.
Well I admit, on our collab, the storm flap is very photogenic!
There, this adjective is not stolen, especially when I see how much T-Michael literally had fun with it during the shoot, buttoning it more or less randomly, to play with shapes and colors.
T. Michael has fun with it by placing it very sloppy around his neck, even when his jacket is open.
So what is this storm flap for? When the weather is very rainy and windy, this band protects the wearer's face, giving an absolutely delicious urban ninja look.
And it can also be used as a makeshift scarf.
He pushed the detail so far that you have two rows of pressure to put it in, so two "depths" to choose from with this storm flap.
In 2015, during my test, I was already having fun with the Storm Flap on my Norwegian Rain.
It's not stupid, because for T-Michael, the storm flap is also supposed to protect your scarf from the rain, as long as it is not too thick.
Note for those who are anxious about originality: it is a completely removable element, again thanks to these snap buttons.
That's it, and here we only touched on the hood... let's move on to the rest of the piece.
A storm flap that makes you smile!
Two pairs of exterior pockets: why?
When I received my very first Norwegian Rain in 2015, I wondered why there were four “hand pockets” on the front of the jacket.
In any case, I found it super practical, because it allows you to have top-notch "personal organization": receipts in one pocket, transport tickets in the other, etc.
Yes, all exterior pocket zippers are hidden by flaps.
But there is another "hidden" reason, explained by Alexander and T-Michael... In fact, when you put your hands in the pockets in the "low position" (i.e. the pair of pockets placed lowest on the room), It's an elegant look, but as soon as it rains heavily, the water will run down your arms and get into your pockets.
To avoid this, T-Michael has placed pockets at chest level. So when you put your hands in it, it's going to warm you up against the wind.
Even though there is a big blue sky in this photo, these chest pockets will be a big help in the event of a downpour.
And since your arm will be bent, your hand will be higher than your elbow and the water will not run down the arm and enter the pocket.
But it's not over! There are also two large buttoned pockets and two zippered pockets inside.
Which makes six pockets in total! Personally, when I travel, I like to put my passport in one pocket, my headphones in the other, my tissues in another, my boarding passes, etc.
A few words on the sleeves
T-Michael hates velcro, so he put in an adjustment tab that tightens with buttons. I thought it was to limit the entry of water in the event of a downpour. This is indeed the case, but not only that.
The clamping tab system which replaces a Velcro strip. The imposing T. Michael bracelet is optional!
In fact, because of his background as a tailor, T-Michael wanted a way to have the sleeves sit perfectly on the wearer's wrist.
So he chose this button system, which uses exactly the same principle as a shirt cuff button.
But it's still not over...
If you look inside the sleeve, at the wrist, you will see that the outer material "rides up" far in, whereas on a normal coat it is close to the edge.
This is simply to prevent water from entering and touching the lining, in order to prevent it from rising by capillary action along the arm.
If on this rolled up sleeve, the technical material goes far up the inside of the sleeve, it is to prevent the slightest drop of rain from touching the sleeve lining!
Even more functional details
There is one detail that owners of a Norwegian Rain know well: it is the collar covering at chin level.
You will see a black fabric on the part that will be in contact with your skin. Well know that it is 100% cashmere.
Yes, the black fabric in the photo is 100% cashmere!
As part of waterproof hiking clothing, it is a waterproof zip which prevents water from entering the middle. But when you don't like it, and you only want buttons, what do you do?
The trick found by Alexander and T-Michael comes from clothing used on oil platforms: the edge of the fabric is slightly folded over to create a mini gutter.
The water, when it flows towards the middle, will therefore be channeled by this gutter and flow downwards, without going inside the jacket.
The water “hits” in the gutter, and flows quietly down. It’s quite simple, and you had to think about it!
And there is something new compared to a classic Norwegian Rain and exclusive to our collaboration: there is a carrying strap inside the garment, like on our softshell. This is very practical if you enter a place where the temperature rises suddenly and you feel too hot.
However, if you don't want one, no worries, this strap is completely removable.
And in terms of aesthetic details?
While it's a feature-packed piece, Alexander and T-Michael also judiciously placed some purely aesthetic details.
The height of luxury: the collar of this outerwear item has an authentic hidden button down! This ensures that it stays impeccable, even when there is a lot of wind.
The famous horn buttons!
To begin with, all the buttons (and there are many) are made of horn. The hollow shape of the button means that if the button touches a surface, there will be no friction on the wires.
As for the interior pockets, the flaps are made of tweed, which brightens up the interior when you open the jacket!
To finish on the pockets, T-Michael also took care to hide each zip under a flap, in order to have the most elegant, most "tailored" look possible.
And on the bottom of the piece, a sashiko pattern sewn in tone on tone.
And there it is, this discreet sashiko pattern that reminds us of our love and that of Norwegian Rain for Japan!
T-Michael's know-how on cutting
The fit of the collar demonstrates a certain sensitivity of T. Michael to the art of tailoring...
It didn't escape my notice, during my Norwegian Rain test, I praised the cut of the jacket at shoulder level. The shoulder is very clean, very clean, and so comfortable with a blazer underneath. The Rake magazine describes it as “beautifully tailored”.
When I told T-Michael about it, he was visibly happy that I noticed this "detail". He told me that this was something he spent the most time on.
Making that shoulder so beautiful and comfortable on these jackets was no easy feat, he told me.
Alexander told me, this shoulder was not designed like that of a sports jacket, but like a coat created by a tailor. And you'll feel it right away when you put on this jacket. These are the kinds of details where T. Michael's tailoring know-how comes in very handy.
The material: a Japanese technical membrane
The choice of material was the biggest challenge when the brand launched. We needed a material that was:
- waterproof and breathable at the same time (therefore very efficient)
- eco-friendly
- but which does not resemble a technical subject
If it's easy to find eco-friendly technical fabric, it's another story to find one to combine with a suit, which doesn't look like Gore-Tex.
They therefore found a Japanese supplier , who offers very beautiful technical materials, waterproof, breathable, and made of recycled polyester .
Unsurprisingly, they appreciate everything we love about Japanese materials from their supplier: colors that are always “right”, a unique sense of “grain”.
This is a color that was specially developed for us : it is a beautiful navy blue, slightly mottled, as usual with the other Norwegian Rain colors. It's very light, and as I already noted during my test in 2015, the result is a world away from a Gore-Tex jacket. Here, it’s a material that will blend seamlessly with your blazers and shoes.
To tell you the truth, it even reminded me of certain outdoor wool fabrics from the Italian manufacturer Vitale Barberis.
Who is their Japanese supplier?
In terms of material, Alexander and T-Michael are well aware that their Japanese supplier is a huge competitive advantage, so they keep the name secretly. And they are right !
I had suspected Komatsu, a very big name in Japanese technical fabric, and which does European trade shows, but they told me it wasn't him.
The mystery will therefore remain complete…
With a waterproof rating of 20,000mm, I can guarantee that you will stay dry. Promised.
What about the performance of this material?
It would be easy to use the usual terms used: “extreme technical fabric”, “extreme breathability”, etc. This is the great classic of outdoor brands, and all brands that use technical fabrics do this.
But you know me, I like to go beyond what I read :)
Here, I can talk about it, because having owned an NR for 3 years, I have been able to test this material in many conditions.
In terms of waterproofing, there is nothing to complain about, you will be dry .
There's something magical about going out in the pouring rain, seeing water streaming everywhere, and having your head protected from the deluge. The performance of the material is more than 20,000 mm (= 20 meters!!!!) in water column, that is to say that a water column of 20,000 mm in height, placed on matter, do not pass through it.
So you will be protected from the rain very effectively, that's a certainty.
And in terms of breathability? Norwegian Rain talks about "extreme breathability" but I think that needs to be qualified. In fact, you have two layers of fabric on this piece: the outer fabric and a (very beautiful) lining. Obviously, this impacts breathability, perspiration will evacuate less quickly than if there was no lining.
Because I'm not hiding anything from you...
If it's really too hot outside, there can be a very (really) very slight phenomenon of condensation, but nothing very different from what happens with Gore-Tex pro for example (I know this because I tried both).
But don't worry, it goes away very quickly, because the breathability of the membrane does its job.
Any other brand would hide this phenomenon, but it is very important for me to be 100% transparent.
But I insist on this: for this to happen, you really have to be very warm underneath and not open your jacket.
So if you're hoping to run in this piece, go hiking, or wear it in the middle of summer, you might get a little hot with it.
But quite frankly, in normal urban use, when temperatures start to drop below 20°C, you will be really comfortable. There is no "baking" effect characteristic of some rubber rainwear.
As soon as the thermometer drops to around 15°C and below, which is the weather in Bergen, it will be simply perfect.
If it's colder, it's a garment that makes it very easy to add layers underneath. Put on a chunky knit sweater and, in the opinion of some US forum users, you can easily wear it when temperatures approach 0°C, or even below if you have invested in a good mid-layer.
The versatility of this piece in the rain is therefore not lost.
The case of heat-sealed seams
Ah, the famous welded seams that I often talk about.
As you may know, to prevent water from seeping through the seams, they must be sealed using special tapes.
To put it simply, it's like applying tape to the seams.
This is a tedious operation because:
- slow, it requires a lot of attention to detail
- and it is reserved for the most qualified and experienced workers
Here, this jacket has welded seams. For example, if you look at where the buttons are sewn, you will see that there is even a small dot that makes the sewing point waterproof.
For your information, the assembly of the jacket is done in Poland.
Norwegian Rain did not wish to communicate the name of the Polish factory, and this is perfectly normal, because it is a key sourcing, which they took time to find.
All I know is that they are very happy with this factory, and that it works with big names in the outdoor industry. This doesn't surprise me, because the ClimaShield sales agent had also told me a lot of good things about the technical expertise of the Polish factories, especially on welded seams.
And the price ?
A few words on this point:
Japanese material
+ waterproof and breathable membrane
+ welded seams
+ high quality manufacturing with lots of details
------
= it really can't cost the price of a wool and polyester blend coat.
A Norwegian Rain in France costs around €800 (often more — and it can even go up to €1000 depending on the material). There, we lowered the prices as much as possible, we strongly insisted with Alexander, and the price will be below €600 , but it is clearly impossible to do less.
I don't want to be a carpet salesman, but it's a rare opportunity to be able to access Norwegian Rain at this price. And I would like to thank them once again for playing the game to the fullest, especially since it is not an obvious gesture for them, particularly with regard to their other distributors.
For this price, you will have a unique product. For example, at Arc'teryx, a Gore-Tex equivalent would cost around €700, with a very ordinary appearance.
There, for less money, you have a very beautiful Japanese material, which I have never seen elsewhere, and a monument of functional design, full of details.
Little bonus at the end…
The launch of this piece is this Saturday, September 29 from 11 a.m.
And for Parisians, a member of the Norwegian Rain team will be there from 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.!
It's about Wesley. French-speaking, he moved to Paris. He knows the products perfectly and will present this collaboration to you in detail!
How to get this collaboration with Norwegian Rain?
Just one thing to remember: see you on Saturday September 29 in our stores in Paris , Lyon and Bordeaux or on our e-shop .
