Our new sets to turn the suit into a playground (collection presentation - chapter 2)

You are the starting point for the creation of this suit, because you really liked our navy blue Toso pants, launched in October 2021.

Whether by email, comment or in store, many of you shared with us your favorite material.

And we wouldn't risk contradicting you because we love it too (and we sell it but that's also because we love it), for all its little subtleties.

Seen from a distance, this woven micro-pattern is discreet, which makes them quite sober and easy to combine pants.

It is above all its luminous side and its fluid drape which are expressed at this distance.

This is the result of the work of Guabello, a century-old weaver with whom we have already worked on several pants. He defends well the reputation of the clothiers of the mountainous region of Biella, in Italy. Because in addition to selecting their wools, they work very well on washing and finishing their fabrics. This comes both from their know-how and the quality of the water in the region.

When I went to report at Reda, another weaver from Biella, their employee Davide explained to me:

This is why when you touch these pants, you will also feel a hand that is both soft (softness improved by the 37% cotton) and nervous (the 63% wool) which makes this fabric very interesting.

Besides, if you touch it, you are close enough to see all these magnificent nuances:

A grain full of poetry that Guabello obtained with stranded threads. And if you don't yet know what it is, you are about to acquire knowledge that will help you keep the conversation going for at least 2 minutes with the lucky guy who will talk to you about your jacket.

A mouliné thread is made up of several threads combined by twisting. A bit like a double-ply yarn, except that the point here is not to strengthen it, but rather to obtain a yarn of several colors.

On these pants, you will therefore be able to distinguish white, indigo, navy blue and even black threads which have been stranded together.

And the difference with a mottled fabric, whose shades are also varied, is that the latter are rather obtained before spinning by playing on the dyeing of the fibers.

In short, this fabric is superb and you agreed with us so much that we decided to make it a costume by developing a matching jacket. We said to ourselves that it was the ideal material to make a costume that would not spend the year locked in your cover because:

1. Its jacket would be easy to pair with jeans or chinos, thanks to the almost “raw” side of its grain. Even more so by choosing a Neapolitan jacket shape, with a round and relaxed shoulder.
2. You could wear it with your knitwear in mid-season and in winter without it appearing intrusive, because its blend of wool and cotton gives it a hand and an appearance close to a flannel (without making it too warm because its thickness remains moderate, 180g/m2).
3. The absence of lining along the back makes it even more relaxed and pleasant to wear.

And speaking of comfort, Benoît has a little update on our jacket fit to share with you.

It is therefore a costume to wear as a set or mismatched. With a sweater, t-shirt or shirt. With sneakers, brogues or even Wallabees, from fall to spring.

While the rest of our collection arrives this Thursday, September 21 at 10:30 a.m., this costume is available now on our e-shop and in store. We'll give you a link to its presentation page, where you can order it and discover all its little tailoring finishes:

To all those who loved the blue version and who don't necessarily need a costume: we're not going to leave you without anything!

When you like one of our materials, it's an opportunity for our product team to look for other colors. And when they looked through the material cards at Guabello, they came across this sandy shade. The sequence of events: a crush, the development of a prototype, another crush upon receipt and here is the result!

This time, beige, brown, yellow and black stranded threads gave this rich color.

And you will of course find the same sartorial-friendly details, like this magnificent extended capuchin leg and these double claws, the sight of which really tickles the dopamine receptors:

We wanted to offer you this shirt to wear with our new suits (or those you already have) and with the release of our new Toso set, it was now or never!

The idea is simple: a white dress shirt to wear with all your suit colors, to make a statement at a ceremony or at the office with a texture that changes from poplin shirts.

We really wanted to find a material with a little twist. Same principle as for our Toso suit: a sober and elegant fabric from a distance, which reveals small subtleties when you see it up close on you. With a beautiful combination of textures between your shirt collar, your tie and your suit.

Our candidate to meet these specifications: dobby fabric, which we had already worked on before. We love its characteristic little reliefs, obtained by the looms of the same name which vary the number of threads during weaving.

Disadvantage: this fabric is often shiny and our product team was looking for a more matte dobby, more subtle and not too much of a “formal shirt”, so that you could wear it in more contexts. They found it at Albini, an Italian weaver who knows how to work with relief fabrics.

They made it the dress shirt that we would like to find in our own wardrobes:

1. A fitted cut worked throughout our collections to highlight the silhouette.
2. An Italian collar wide enough to have presence but not too much, to remain consistent with most jacket lapels.
3. Thick mother-of-pearl buttons, sewn with the famous Zampa di Gallina stitch for high-end finish and durability.
4. Fine French seams on the sides.

If you like it and slip under your costume for one of the great moments of your life, it will be a great success for us. So don't hesitate to send us your ootd that day, so that we can hang it on our refrigerator at the office.

And to stimulate your more ordinary days, we thought of a new kind of costume.

We're not going to lie to each other: we don't instinctively put on a blazer every morning. For most of us, it's rather an exceptional kiff that we do when we want to add a high kick of elegance to our daily lives.

The rest of the time, we will always prefer clothes in which we are freer to move, those in which we are sure not to overdo it, those that we take less trouble to combine, those that we can load with our headphones, our card holder and our keys to have everything at hand.

But if the workwear jacket and the overshirt have become the new blazers, why not coordinate them with pants to make them the new suit?

At the same time, when you think about it, this new form of costume has plenty of advantages:

1. It is original and can become a real personal style uniform.
2. We have plenty of pockets to store our things.
3. You can wear it almost anywhere without wondering if you're too dressed , since the shape of the jacket and the material of the whole thing are very casual.
4. At the same time, we exude a form of elegance with this “uniform” side, especially when its wool recalls the fluid drape of a classic suit.
5. You can wear it with a t-shirt and running shoes as well as with a shirt and brogues.
6. You can wear just the top or the bottom without even feeling like you're mismatching an outfit, because it's ultimately just a workwear jacket/overshirt and pants.
7. You can put together an interesting outfit in a few minutes and without thinking too much, since all you have to do is choose a base layer and shoes.

This new form of suit perfectly represents the progression of casual chic: rather than combining casual and elegant pieces, we evolve them so that they serve our everyday needs in both registers.

We wanted you to explore this new playground with two different sets and for that, you of course had to find the right materials.

For the first, Julien thought of our Chelini joggers. A wool twill from the Italian weaver Delfino, which you loved. You weren't the only ones, because Julien himself got married with a suit he had made in the same material (yes, I was also jealous when I helped him take the measurements for the alterations, each profession has its advantages).

This fabric has the right balance to bring simple elegance to everyday life, between the chic of its fluid drape and the rustic personality of its brown chevron.

Important point for a garment to wear without hassle on a daily basis: this wool also has a fairly compact and reassuring hand, which means that we don't have the impression of having to pay attention to all our movements when we move in it. . This robustness comes from its double twisted yarn, that is to say a yarn which has been doubled by twisting before weaving.

Which does not prevent it from being soft to the touch, because the wool fibers do not exceed 17.25 microns in diameter. All for a three-season thickness of 230 gr/m2.

The shape of the jacket is similar to that of an overshirt, with a bowling collar and two chest pockets. Put in a pair of glasses, a fountain pen and play like an architect. An ecru bandana folded like a clutch wouldn't be bad either.

For the rest of your belongings, you will find two large buttoned pockets inside.

As for the pants, we had fun with the same sartorial details as on our Toso pants: double pleats and a beautiful capuchin tab that extends along the waist, to be revealed when you wear them without the jacket.

All with a high waist and a carrot cut.

Our product team clearly saw a second set with a more workwear feel, with a more edgy material. An Italian wool flannel, for example.

So she naturally turned to Vitale Barberis Canonico, another great weaver from the Biella region who offered a very good one.

Problem: taking out the calculator, the team understands that a set made from this material would be far too expensive because of the increase in prices.

Let's go find an equivalent in Europe, just to offer you a set with interesting material without having to launch a payment service in 12 installments.

Sarah, Julien, Hélène and Landry then discovered this wool in Portugal:

It is made by Morgado, a company launched by the family of the same name in 1927 with two wooden looms. Today, its capital is still held by the same family.

And when we take the quality of this wool in hand, we feel that there is know-how behind it which greatly rivals that of Italian weavers. There is a very nice nervous touch , consistency and hold without it being too thick (209g/m2).

The only difference with VBC wool: it has a slightly drier hand. But when the team receives the assembled prototype and shows it to everyone in the office, we say to ourselves that it gives it more character. A more raw side that goes well with the desired workwear spirit. Knowing that there is a viscose lining in the sleeves, so that they remain very soft on your arms if you wear the jacket with a t-shirt.

The texture is validated. Now there's color left. We would like to find a slightly unusual shade of green. Not the kind of khaki you see everywhere. And although we really like Morgado's wools, we don't find what we're looking for in its color catalog.

What if we created this color ourselves?

If we develop our own color of thread, the whole thing becomes too expensive and we go back to square one. The team therefore proposed another idea to Morgado: overdyeing an already dyed fabric to obtain a new color.

So Morgado takes a heather gray fabric and dyes it khaki. The mixture of the two colors gives this very deep green.

It really reinforces the workwear personality of the outfit, the top of which is inspired by painter's jackets with its three patch pockets. If all your brushes don't fit, you will also find two large zipped pockets inside.

As for the bottom of the outfit, it has the very assertive volume of our Bergamo pants: a loose cut, slightly tighter at the bottom. And so that this structure is expressed well, with all the hold of the material, its length stops above the shoe with a low cuff. If you prefer it to break on the shoe with a simple bottom, you can of course have it extended from our stores or from your retoucher.

And of course, we weren't going to ignore these beautiful double clips which take on their full meaning on such a volume: