After introducing you to the Kuro brand , it is time to reveal our parka in detail.
This is a piece of our 2018 trip to Japan that we bring you here, 100% made in Japan, both for the fabrics and the manufacturing. Everything is made there. Everything.
This is why we are very proud of this collaboration with Kuro, because it could not better represent the Japanese know-how so appreciated at BonneGueule…
Between a signature design by Yatsu Yusuke, a very special "typewriter" fabric, an ultra-breathable waterproof membrane, and high-performance insulation, you will see, it is truly a unique piece that we brought back from Japan for you!
-Benoît
Kuro denim jacket and sleeveless vest, BonneGueule x Kuro parkas, BonneGueule chambray shirt .
A parka with some good old "X-Factor"
Describing what I felt the first time I tried on this parka is not easy, and it took me a few paragraphs rewritten from scratch to do so.
This parka has... an indescribable charm.
It has a "visual statement" all its own: the way the collar sits on the shoulders, its volume... It's a terribly... charismatic piece (I couldn't think of another word).
BonneGueule x Kuro parka, BonneGueule turtleneck sweater , secret jeans.
More particularly, the two sides that open make it majestic, with the "raw" side of the fleece inserts.
Its comfort (clearly above most of the big pieces I've worn) combined with this contemporary design "made in Kuro" makes it a resolutely striking piece. We remember it when we wear it.
This is what I want you to experience with this parka: another realm of possibilities , to make you experience your (first?) real "wooah" moment during a fitting, a big thrill. And why not shake up some who don't dare to go beyond Italian sartorial... or Parisian casual chic.
/End of the paragraph where the heart spoke!/
BonneGueule and Kuro, hand in hand
We were very complementary in the development of this parka:
- Kuro provided the basis for the collaboration . They brought us all their 100% Japanese sourcing, down to the zippers and linings for example. They were obviously the ones who managed all the manufacturing in Japan.
- BonneGueule pushed the technical dimension : ideas around the “typewriter” fabric , laminated membrane and technical insulation come from us. We also reworked the fit a lot to make it suitable for a French audience. And finally, we added fleece-lined pockets.
Even though the brand is almost unknown in France and even in Europe, I have known it for a few years, because it is a reference in denim.
When I discovered her, she made the most beautiful washed jeans I had ever seen. I used to cite her a lot as a reference on this subject.
Then they started making pants out of really crazy Japanese materials .
Little by little, the range has expanded, and it is now a very beautiful complete wardrobe that makes up the brand.
As a Japanese brand, there is enormous attention to detail in the finishes, and even the simplest pieces like sweaters or sweatshirts have a real touch:
Although I can't really explain it, I think Yatsu's love for architecture really comes across in this sweater. The color is really cool too!
Look at the curve of the raglan shoulder seams, the collar detail, the ribbed edges… These are the kind of neat details typical of Kuro.
And what I really like about Kuro is their winter pieces (coats, jackets, etc.), in short all the outerwear, because I find that they perfectly appropriate European and American tailoring codes, while adding their own subtlety:
Their reinterpretation of an American varsity jacket, with Japanese leather on the sleeves.
A soft coat, really comfortable, and simple in its design… Kuro is also very comfortable on timeless and really elegant pieces.
And Kuro also knows how to make strong pieces in outerwear. This is precisely what interested us in this collaboration. Between the colors, the materials, the taste of Yatsu, the result is often unique, where the contemporary mixes with natural colors:
The kind of strong pieces specific to Kuro, where tailoring codes mix with very casual Japanese fabrics.
Now look at this magnificent sleeveless vest: look at this very successful olive color which blends harmoniously with the color of the lining, the detail of the collar, the press studs, it is the famous sense of detail of Kuro.
You now understand better what we liked about Kuro, and it is precisely this DNA that we brought back to you from Japan.
The fabric of this collaboration: Japanese know-how in action!
1. The outer fabric: a very "crisp" typewriter
This is one of the main features of this parka.
The outer fabric is called "typewriter". A material that is rarely used in France, even though it has a crazy charm.
It is dense, light and "crisp". It is reminiscent of paper. The Americans have a word that perfectly describes this effect: "crisp".
What I really like is that it's made of a cotton and nylon blend, so it feels like anything but a technical fabric. You'd think it was a nice cotton poplin.
And on this material, everything is 100% made in Japan: weaving, dyeing, laminating.
This is a very close-up of the fabric and the exterior, impossible to tell that a membrane is hidden under this fabric.
2. A “long staple” cotton with a unique feel…
Kuro didn't do things by halves: this typewriter is woven in "long staple" cotton, with particularly long fibers.
Cotton quality and fiber length
5/5 is the rarest and most sought-after cotton: it is ELS for Extra Long Staple, used in particular for high-end shirts.
Well the cotton of our parka is a 4/5: it is the grade just below, with a length between 28.6~33.3cm.
Where the cotton mostly used in the market is 2/5, with a length between 20.6~25.4cm.
Why worry about the length of the fiber? Because it is what provides softness, but also resistance to wear.
In the end, the hand is silky as desired. "Silky" as the Japanese say...
And at Kuro, they are very proud of this fabric. They have insisted on the fact that this touch is very difficult to find outside of Japan .
For Yatsu, the designer, this material represents the unique know-how of his country. And I agree with him!
3. Laminated membrane, hidden technicality
The Japanese have a great deal of expertise in creating technical materials that don't seem technical.
This surely comes from the influence of pioneering brands like Nanamica or Visvim, which have helped to bring technical materials into urban and workwear wardrobes.
This is why we wanted to go even further with a waterproof and breathable membrane, which comes directly from the supplier Komatsu.
And since this "typewriter fabric + membrane" set did not exist on the market, we had to develop it exclusively for this collaboration. And it is a great pride to create a material that did not exist! 🚀🚀🚀
BonneGueule hat, BonneGueule x Kuro parka, Kuro sweater, Bernard Zins pants.
4. A waterproof and ultra-breathable membrane: Ustamok-Z™
Komatsu is a major player in the Japanese industry, particularly in technical fabrics (it is even the supplier of the golden age of a legendary Italian designer-engineer, considered the inventor of techwear, who we have agreed not to mention 🙂 ).
They invented a membrane that has the particularity of being able to easily laminate (stick) to a wide variety of fabrics (even wool flannel!). It's called "Ustamok-Z™", a name that can't be invented...
For this parka we use a 2-layer membrane, waterproof and extremely breathable :
🔬For the more technical among you:
- Waterproofness : 10,000mm in water column test , that is to say perfectly waterproof, without blocking air exchanges
- Breathability : between 20,000 MVTR ("very good breathability") and 30,000 MVTR ("extremely breathable") g/m²/24h
Ah, this eternal dilemma that never leaves me as soon as I work with a waterproof material... As a reminder, taped seams are seams on which adhesive tape (which really looks like Scotch tape) has been applied to prevent water from entering the gaps by capillary action in the event of very heavy and prolonged downpours.
The problem is that it is an extremely expensive operation, consuming a lot of time in the making. And in addition to requiring special machines that are also expensive, it requires highly qualified workers.
For price reasons, we have therefore decided not to apply welded seams to this parka. . This parka therefore has the same waterproofness as our merino rain coat, meaning that it will protect you without any problem from urban downpours, even sustained ones, and from snow.
On the other hand, if you have to walk for a good hour in torrential and endless rain, with absolutely no possibility of shelter (like a real emergency situation), water could seep into the seams despite the perfect impermeability of the laminated material.
But only in the long term, because the water would have to pass through the insulation, which will remain warm even if it is damp, and which will still allow moisture to escape more effectively than down.
Bottom line: If I had to describe this parka in English, I would say it is "water resistant" or "weatherproof" rather than "waterproof". .
It will therefore protect you very well in 99% of situations .
Yatsu is a product lover and enjoys visiting his workshops.
Please note that this flexible and light material is not easy to work with, the risk being of having irregular seams without qualified workers.
Kuro went straight to the legendary workshop "In and in" (yes, that's really its name). It was one of the very first Japanese workshops to work with technical materials like Gore-Tex, in the 70s.
And it took In and In's decades of experience to deal with this unique subject!
Padding: Toray 3DeFX+, high-tech Japanese insulation
No, here it is about Toray's 3DeFX+ . I could write an entire article just on this insulator, there are so many things to say...
We could compare it to Climashield® APEX which we also use, but with Japanese technology.
From health to carbon fibers to technical fabrics, Toray has been accumulating patents that make our lives easier for a century, in many sectors.
On the textile side, it is a key player in Japanese techwear. Very comfortable on a wide range of fabrics: breathable and waterproof membranes, stretch fabrics, insulators... Toray knows how to do it all.
More efficient, more practical, more adaptable, more sustainable
- Very well suited to the large thermal variations of urban life : walking outside in cold weather, then metro, then draft when going out, then overheated store...
- Thinner and warmer than a traditional insulator : the key innovation is the shape of the filaments. They look like tiny springs that trap a lot of air, for a less bulky insulator. At equal weight with a traditional insulator, it is therefore more efficient!
- Excellent durability: because it is a continuous filament insulator (it is not like cotton wadding or feathers which disintegrate, compact, and in the end no longer insulate anything).
Unsurprisingly, we find this insulation among the big names in outdoor, Patagonia leading the way with its famous (and acclaimed) "Nano Air" jacket (yes, it's Toray 3DeFX+ in it).
We can clearly see the spring shape of the 3DeFX+ wires.
Heat retained, humidity evacuated
In terms of warmth, it's close to our parka from last year. And since the typewriter fabric is lighter, the parka is even more breathable.
In this regard, 3DeFX+ wicks away moisture very quickly, even after heavy sweating (for example when leaving the metro or after running to catch a plane).
Check out this test from Toray, which measures body moisture when someone is walking briskly...
With a down jacket:
We see that goose down - animal considerations aside - has difficulty evacuating moisture, even after slight effort (the blue humidity curve descends very slowly).
With the same 3DeFX+ insulated jacket:
Humidity rises less quickly, less high, and is evacuated better.
All the white magic of this parka:
🔥 Warm : as if you were wrapped in a cozy duvet.
👍 Management of humidity and heat variations , even during exercise
⏳ Durable , it retains its shape and technical performance over time
Combined with the Typewriter+Ustamok-Z™ laminated membrane, the parka is then:
🌬️ Windbreaker , everywhere
☔ Waterproof and breathable with laminated membrane
😎 Wear-resistant thanks to the long staple typewriter
In short, a formidable alliance of style and comfort. Perfectly adapted to your urban uses. It's a bit like a new Everest for us, or a sort of very high Fujiyama 🙂
A cup full of history (and possibilities)
After seeing the technical aspect, let's now see how Kuro's Japanese eye was able to express itself on this piece.
You may have noticed from the photos that this parka has a slightly oversized fit.
This is actually one of my favorite things about Kuro: they have jeans cut with a scalpel, and remain very strong in designing outerwear with majesty. .
There’s a blazer hidden under this parka, would you recognize it? Jokes aside, this fullness in terms of fit brings immense comfort.
1. At the base: mod culture reinterpreted by Kuro
Yes, Yatsu was inspired by the famous M-51 parka of the mods, this subculture of the 50s in the United Kingdom , to create this model.
Yatsu was inspired by this kind of photos and his Japanese designer eye did the rest!
As a reminder, at the time of the mods, the parka was an inexpensive way to protect your costume during a scooter ride. An indestructible piece, terribly practical, conducive to customization, it didn't take much for the parka to become an essential piece among mods.
It's this mix of genres that I find really interesting. I couldn't find a better quality photo unfortunately!
Personally, I really like their boldness at the time, where they weren't afraid to wear such a piece over a very formal outfit.
And it is this spirit that we want to convey with this BonneGueule x Kuro parka.
For my part, I find that the "protective" side of our collaboration comes out well, and it almost reminds me of photos of the legendary B-7 parka. in sheepskin worn and in action:
A little resemblance, don't you think?
A parka for going for a walk with friends.
2. An incredibly comfortable room
Yes, this is the first thing you will notice when trying it on, thanks to this effective alliance between:
- the lightweight and flexible fabric and insulation
- this judiciously loose cut, which allows great ease
…you get a very comfortable piece of outerwear, surely the most comfortable in your wardrobe.
The very nice sleeveless vest from Kuro, which can be worn easily under this parka. The comfort and warmth are just unbeatable.
3. Perfect for layering
I'm not usually a big fan of this kind of silhouette, but when I tried on the coats in their showroom, I found that it worked really well. They really managed to make me like this type of volume.
Because… what happiness it was!
How nice it is to be able to comfortably do all the layering you want. Whereas with a "normal" coat, you can sometimes feel cramped as soon as you put on a really thick knit.
If there is one piece of outerwear that is comfortable to wear with the thickest knits, it is this parka!
Chunky knitwear, denim jacket, blazer, thick overshirt, sleeveless vest, everything goes and "fits" without any problem under this parka.
The variety of winter situations where you can wear it is just phenomenal.
Don't be afraid to wear this parka with "casual chic", namely a blazer and shirt, it will blend in very well with this style.
Yes, you have room to put on a denim jacket without any problem.
Japanese attention to detail
Be careful, the mania has barely begun in this presentation article...
1. Strategically placed Japanese fleece
The fleece inside the sleeves is also an effective barrier against the cold that might want to get in...
If you look closely, you will see that all the edges of the parka are reinforced with this very pretty Japanese fleece.
I would like to give you more information, but here Kuro remained unperturbed: top secret. I am only able to tell you that it is a patented technical fleece used in Japanese luxury, with a rendering very close to a high-end sheepskin.
All the cold air entry points of this parka are lined with it: sleeves, collar and bottom of the parka.
This helps to retain heat better and prevents cold air from entering (or escaping from your body) through the sleeves, bottom, or collar.
This fleece traps warm air and is an effective barrier against winter drafts.
That said, the interior of the parka is lined with a lightweight, breathable nylon:
This photo also allows you to see the two zippered pockets inside.
2. The incredible story of the “Waldes” zip on this parka
So hang on, we have a great example of Japanese "going all the way" with the zip of this parka.
I knew that the Japanese did not take the issue of the zip lightly (well yes, the giant YKK is Japanese), but here they went very very far...
This zip is full of secrets.
So on this parka, it's a Waldes brand zip, manufactured by Asahi Fastener, a company founded in 1953.
It's a tiny company compared to YKK: there are only about thirty of them (it's even smaller than BonneGueule). So they have a very small production... but 60 years of experience.
A reproduction of a vintage zip
Waldes is basically an American brand of zippers that existed between 1930 and 1950.
At the time, she even advertised in Life magazine, it's completely mind-blowing:
Ad in a 1941 Life magazine…
Except that this zipper manufacturer has declined and fallen into oblivion for good...
For real? Not really! An American zip brand, recognized at the time, with real know-how… it didn’t take much more to tickle the vintage (and almost archivist) fiber of the Japanese, and more particularly of Asahi Fastener.
They then recovered Waldes' patents and began reproducing them as faithfully as possible, as they were made in the 1930s and 1940s!
This zip is a real little piece of history that you will handle between your fingers...
Yes, the zipper teeth, its pull, its size: everything is a morbidly identical reproduction of the original.
It's just crazy how much manic determination Asahi Fastener has shown to save this little piece of Americana. And that zipper is on our Kuro Parka.
A zip designed to last (and develop a patina)
So this zip has several special features…
First of all, this zipper has been given a special treatment. Asahi Fastener wants it to develop a patina over time, like jeans or beautiful leather , and… like the Waldes zippers of the time.
The fabric strip of this zipper is 100% cotton, as it was back then . But a vintage machine was used to (re)produce the very compact and very strong weave of the time. Asahi also specifies that this allows for the slightly irregular texture of the Waldes zippers of yesteryear.
This is a vintage machine that was used to weave this very strong cotton band, to have the same vintage texture.
Why 100% cotton? This is also for a typically Japanese reason: the patina over time is much prettier than with a polyester strip . It will fade very nicely, like a nice chino…
With such a history, I let you imagine our pride in using this zip and making you discover it, in France…
A zip you'll never look at the same way again.
You may be wondering: but why aren't Waldes zippers better known in Europe?
This is typically the kind of nugget that we enjoy bringing back to France, because these very cutting-edge brands (we are still talking about zips) are eclipsed by the titan YKK and do not have a very developed sales team. And then the website is, as usual with Japanese suppliers, very rudimentary . On the other hand, they have a Facebook page that seems quite active and an Instagram account that is starting well.
3. Well-designed pockets
It surprises me, but in 2019, there are still brands that neglect the practicality of pockets on a parka...
These pockets were placed at our request. With nice little kimono stitching.
But not here: there is an inside zipped pocket at chest level, and a large zipped pocket, also inside, at the bottom right. Very practical for documents, personal effects and other important papers.
On the outside, there are two fleece-lined pockets (a little nod to our usual outerwear pieces) which will be a joy to warm your hands.
Obviously, the pockets are lined with fleece for warm hands.
4. A comforting hood
This hood is a real pleasure against the wind and the cold.
The two front panels overlap each other to prevent any draft.
The collar snap is slightly oblique to create an effective barrier.
And since the hood is fully lined with fleece, including the chin, it's very comfortable to wear.
There is a tab at the chin that keeps the two sides firmly closed (and for the record, even this little tab contains insulation).
How to wear this parka?
Here are some outfits from Jordan and Boras in Harajuku. And tomorrow, we promise you an article where a large part of the team played the game and posed in front of the lens.
Everyone has their own style, and it was important to show you how these two parkas can give a real visual boost to many styles!
1. By playing the layering card
I have spoken about it at length, and this photo illustrates well the possibilities of this parka:
Jordan wears white Bernard Zins pants that echo the fleece inserts, and the Paraboots are perfectly at home here…
Ultimately, Jordan's outfit is a beautiful mix of influences, with texture everywhere:
Boras is not to be outdone, with a distinctive workwear outfit:
- style-wise: washed raw jeans, sleeveless vest
- in terms of colors, where the beige of the parka goes particularly well with his shoes:
2. With a thick turtleneck
A pair of boots, jeans with texture , and a turtleneck rich in relief. It doesn't take more with the blue parka:
3. With a white t-shirt
Yes, given the very visual side of this parka, it can easily be worn with very sober pieces:
What price for 100% made in Japan? 💴
The price negotiation was one of the critical points of our discussions with Kuro, because they were surprised that we did not sell this parka for more than €1,000 in our stores.
Yes, if you look at the prices of Japanese parkas, there is not much available in import.
You should know that in Japan, Kuro sells a less expensive equivalent of this parka in its store for over €800 (if you buy it there of course, otherwise it's over €1,000 to import).
But thanks to Julien and his talents as a Franco-Japanese negotiator, Kuro has made a huge effort on its prices. This is therefore a piece that we can offer you for under €700, for a unique garment 100% made in Japan.
This piece will even be less expensive than many European brands offering technical outerwear pieces... and less accomplished each time...
What size to choose? 📐
It's quite simple:
- if you want to wear this parka as Kuro imagined it : take your usual size
- if you are between two sizes (like me at the moment): take the smaller one
- if you are a beginner and are a little intimidated by this slight oversize : take a size below to have a "normal" fit, and everything will be fine
There you go, you know everything!
How to get our BonneGueule x Kuro parka? 🚀
Visit our e-shop and our boutiques in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux .
