Today we're going to do something I rarely, if ever, do: talk about the price of our clothes .
Within the team, there has long been a debate about the BonneGueule line, especially between Geoffrey and me.
I had really insisted on releasing a more high-end line, the Japan Line , notably with jeans positioned much higher than our usual model. : Kurabo jeans at €177.
My reasoning: you would be sensitive to the quality of the material, the natural indigo, the finishes... which are usually found on jeans starting at €250.
In short, I wanted to stay on a good quality/price ratio, but in a higher budget range than usual... to offer jeans that didn't have many equivalents on the French market.
These jeans were one of our greatest successes, just like the Japan Line as a whole.
I was not surprised to see you sensitive to this line highlighting Japanese materials, despite a higher price than usual.
This reinforced my idea that by sufficiently explaining the quality of a product with real added value, we were not condemned to having a "niche product" that sold in dribs and drabs.
The desire to create more accessible clothing...
Another vision
But Geoffrey had another point of view, both opposing and complementary .
Offer jeans for less than €100 so that as many people as possible can access quality jeans.
Helping as many men as possible to feel good in their clothes, in short.
This is how our famous gray jeans were born. So yes, no Japanese canvas here, but for those looking for an affordable model, a nice gray to highlight the rest of the more colorful pieces, and with stretch to make it very comfortable, it's a great alternative.
He had a good intuition: gray jeans are among the top 3 items that sell best here.
Meeting different needs
Seeing that these two jeans worked equally well left me perplexed. It is rare that a brand has such different prices on the same type of garment, with identical volumes.
What was I supposed to conclude from this? Create more affordable clothes? Or more exceptional pieces?
In fact, we were responding to different needs with jeans for less than €100 and another for €177. And that's why both worked very well.
However, we have not repeated the experience of releasing an affordable garment in this price category.
On the other hand, we have become accustomed to using luxury materials and sometimes unique know-how, like with our coats or shirts, which are regularly sold out (which we try to avoid as much as possible now).
On that, we have found our clientele and I am really delighted to have the opportunity to work with very beautiful materials.
But as Geoffrey rightly pointed out, it was time to dig into the slightly lower price range, that of gray jeans.
So we worked on a line that we called “Essentials”.
Three distinct lines for a clarified offer
With each new launch of the main line, there is always this tension in our choices:
- Given the success of the Japan Line, can we use very beautiful materials, even if it means having shirts that cost more than 120 euros?
- Given the success of grey jeans and the demand behind them, should we turn to more affordable materials?
Now everything is clear with three distinct lines:
- the Essentials line : these are more affordable clothes, with more accessible materials (you understand that we cannot use Japanese materials), without overly expensive details, but with our usual quality. All while aiming for economies of scale.
- the BonneGueule line : the one you know well, with our everyday clothes with that little something extra. The little "twist" that makes the difference! This is where you will find our wool coats , our semi-canvassed blazers , or our clothes in technical materials like the Schoeller pants and the Sympatex softshell .
- and the Japan Line : a line made up of rare Japanese materials such as the Kurabo denim , the Maruwa chambray shirt , or the Kuwamura fabric shirt...
Without realizing it, creating a line composed only of accessible clothes allows you to give them more weight. No more releases in dribs and drabs. Now it's time for a well-structured line that meets your expectations .
We're doing a great job of satisfying those who love high-end materials, it's time to do the same for those with lower budgets.
So, does making clothes more accessible come down to choosing the first fabric or the lowest price? No, it's quite the opposite!
The challenge of accessibility
Believe me, making more affordable clothes while maintaining a certain appeal was more difficult than building the BonneGueule line. The room for maneuver is much smaller, and I had to face complicated debates with Alexandre.
How much lower can the price be? How can we find the right balance between attractive material and assembly cost? What finishes do we absolutely want for the price?
For once, I am very happy that we were able to capitalize on our experience in high-end clothing, particularly in terms of materials.
When you spend your days touching materials that are unaffordable for ordinary mortals, it becomes easy to spot THE material that is worth it. THE nugget in lower price ranges.
The origin of this more affordable line
The first signal we received came from our respective friends.
They earn a very decent living, support us in our adventure, but how many times have I heard "I can't psychologically spend more than €100 on a shirt" .
No matter how much I argued about the materials, the finishes, the material of the buttons, nothing worked. They needed a " more accessible first step ".
On a personal note, I haven't forgotten what it's like to dress on a budget . It's hard to believe that many people on a budget follow us, without us having any pieces they could afford, while they want to update their wardrobes.
But first and foremost, there is obviously you.
We received a lot of feedback saying the same thing:
I love what you do. I would love to buy your clothes and support you, but there is nothing that would fit my budget.
The real demand comes from you. Whether through surveys - as you can see on this graph -, in the comments or during our meetings during the showrooms, many of you have expressed the wish for a more accessible line.
That's a lot of signals and, month after month, the thinking has matured in our heads. I thought that the offer for men below €100 was rather mature, so I didn't see any point in getting involved.
But it was too late. The idea had germinated in our heads and I began to see some "holes in the racket" in our brand landscape:
- an often unclear origin of materials, most brands not specifying where the oxford in their shirts comes from for example,
- few biases in their designs. Still in shirts, few risk going for more marked collars,
- a product explanation rarely provided.
Yes, there was clearly something to do!
But before that, we obviously asked ourselves a whole bunch of questions...
Questions/Answers
Is there a risk that the Essentials line will eventually replace the main line?
No, absolutely not !
It will not take on more importance than the normal line, with which one can "have fun" using more unique and exclusive materials.
It is rather a complement to our main line, and our credo remains the same!
| Supporting beautiful know-how, | |
| Empowering consumers, | |
| Fight against defeatist thoughts. |
What will you bring compared to entry-level brands?
In terms of the product, we are starting to have a good experience: it has been 3 years since we launched the BonneGueule line, 5 years since we did our first collaboration with a brand, and almost 10 years since I wrote on the subject. Not to mention the thousands of feedbacks we have been able to collect during all these years.
In short, we have a very valuable heritage to design beautiful clothes .
This will be reflected in the choice of materials, finishes, cut, stylistic possibilities and the explanation of the pieces. . We are also available to answer all your questions!
Finally, there is also our very particular vision of the “customer experience” (we can sometimes speak of an obsession).
How can Essentials clothing be cheaper if it is of the same quality?
It's a combination of factors.
Volumes twice as high as our other orders (creating economies of scale) + intensive research into more accessible materials = lower prices than usual.
Note that one of these factors alone is not enough to offer a more accessible price. It is really a combination of efforts and risk-taking that allows the Essentials to exist.
Now let's move on to the concrete presentation of the 4 pieces:
- two Emanuel Lang oxford dress shirts,
- a pique cotton shirt,
- and semi-slim blue stretch jeans
The two Emanuel Lang oxford dress shirts
It was time we expanded our line of dress shirts.
We are very happy to offer you an oxford made in France from Emanuel Lang!
No poplin here because as you know, I like textures , even on more dressy shirts.
In white, the Oxford reveals its full potential.
On the other model, pretty light blue stripes which bring variety.
On the importance of the collar
The element that required the most work was the collar.
My idea was simple: I imagined this shirt under a blazer, so it needed a larger collar than usual so that it would sit perfectly under the lapels of the jacket. .
With our Albini cotton dobby shirt which already had a fairly small collar, I wanted to work on another shape here.
But it also had to maintain its presence, especially when worn without a tie.
I didn't think we would need 4 prototypes to get the perfect collar!
In fact, when you lay it flat, it is very important that it is not straight: otherwise, the points of the collar will not sit well on the shirt.
Beautiful finishes
In terms of finishing, if we were not able to put mother-of-pearl buttons on this shirt (we console ourselves by saying that it does not affect the lifespan of the shirt, and that they will be more resistant), we were very happy to see that the workshop had mastered English sewing !
This is a rather rare finish among French brands in this price range.
We have chosen not to offer you mother-of-pearl buttons to keep the price of the shirt down.
Pretty gathers add character to the cuffs.
Not forgetting the essential reinforcement swallows. Note the texture of the white Oxford!
They are made in Morocco, in a workshop that is over 40 years old and works a lot for high-end products. It is indeed less expensive than in Portugal, but its know-how and its sense of finishing means that the cost difference for us is really not huge.
How to wear Essentials Oxford shirts?
For the cut, it is really a shirt to be worn tucked into the pants . So, there is no risk of the shirt coming out as soon as you sit down.
That said, from 1m80 and concerning me, the result remains acceptable with a shirt worn outside.
Since it is a formal shirt, Luca wears it with a suit. Unsurprisingly, it naturally fits in there! Thanks to the light gray and the white base of the shirt, the whole thing is very bright. This is all the more appreciable in the winter grayness. (BonneGueule flannel blazer and pants, Meermin shoes)
The shirt's patterns are discreet, so the pocket square can also have them (as long as they are not the same shape). Also note its small blue border, reminiscent of the tie and the stripes of the shirt. (Gutteridge tie, SuitSupply pocket square)
A small variation on a double-breasted suit. Personally, I opt for a fir green tie: it is a color that lends itself well to formal accessories, contrasting well with the sometimes strict side of a gray suit. From a distance, the shirt appears light blue. It is only by getting closer that we can distinguish the stripes, the pattern had to remain subtle. (Corneliani suit, Husbands tie, Retail Line shoes)
Another option: wear a white shirt with a double-breasted blazer and chinos. Less formal thanks to the mismatched side, the outfit does not lose elegance for all that. True to his transalpine origins, Luca turns to wide lapels - practical for the thinnest busts, thus visually enlarged - and a tie ready to spring out. (SuitSupply blazer, BonneGueule chinos , Meermin derbies, SuitSupply tie)
Mismatched also works with a classic blazer! A white shirt is ideal with a blazer with a rich texture: it will serve as a base on which it will reveal all the subtleties of its material. We also like the use of glazed derbies, bringing a touch of sophistication. ( BonneGueule Donegal blazer , BonneGueule flannel pants , Grenson derbies)
Let's go back to the striped shirt, which Luca wears with our alpaca cardigan. This is the kind of combination that you already know and master very well! As always on a casual chic look, shoes allow you to push the cursor to one side or the other. For a more dressy look, wear derbies or ankle boots and that's it. ( BonneGueule alpaca cardigan , Essentiels line oxford shirt, SEIKO watch, Gudule rings)
In a sober outfit, burgundy sneakers automatically stand out. It's an easy and relevant twist to energize a look. (JUCH Sneakers)
Different shoes, different atmosphere. Do you see the difference? 😉 (BonneGueule Essentiels blue jeans - we'll talk about them below -, Uniqlo belt, Paire & Fils boots)
The pique cotton shirt
I've been waiting for this piece for a while, even before the Essentials line!
A shirt full of contrasts
This is indeed a casual chic shirt, which should also be worn preferably tucked into your trousers.
The goal was to make a piece to wear in a dressy way, in order to contrast with the casual side of the material.
I found it particularly interesting to use a material like pique cotton, resolutely casual, on a shirt with formal proportions.
A material that requires know-how
The material is woven in Spain. And it is then assembled in Tunisia. We don't necessarily know it, but it takes specific expertise to work with pique cotton , which is sometimes capricious under the needle. .
Given the few workshops that accept to work this material, the few that do in Portugal are very expensive (it would surely have been more expensive than the Japan Line).
But Alexandre found a workshop that enthusiastically welcomed our project. He is used to pique cotton.
The design took a really long time, because in the prototypes we received, some were damaged in the machine. We had to start all over again each time and find a new material.
So we started over, until we finally found the shirt that suited us.
How to wear a pique cotton shirt?
As a casual chic model, you can wear your shirt with a suit. Its soft blue is suitable for a professional context and will slip under any blazer. The pique cotton and button-down collar subtly contrast with the formal side of the outfit, in the same vein as derbies. With a button-down collar, yes to the pocket square but no to the tie! (BonneGueule navy jacket and pants , AppleWatch, Grenson derbies, Le Feuillet pocket square)
Without a jacket, it still works. The cut of the shirt, fitted just the right amount, allows you to maintain an elegant look.
More workwear now, Luca completes his shirt with a flight jacket. Little tip: the presence of a wool collar brings volume and gives stature. Moreover, we find the sure value of the khaki / blue combination, almost infallible. Here, the gray jeans play a binding role, letting the other pieces "express themselves" fully. Finally, the boots finish the look with a nod to military inspirations. (La Panoplie jacket, BonneGueule gray jeans , Meermin boots, Gudule ring)
Piqué cotton allows you to create interesting plays on materials. It will reveal all its relief superimposed on jackets with a smoother appearance. (SEIKO Watch)
In a more adventurous spirit, Geoffrey puts on his shirt with a quilted vest. The well-washed jeans reinforce the raw inspirations, echoing the workboots, where the dressed wool of the sleeveless vest offsets the whole. It's all about contrasts! (Cadot vest, BonneGueule Kurabo jeans , Dr. Martens boots)
For relaxing moments, the shirt/blue jeans combo is enough. With this base, treat yourself to accessories! For this, Arnaud opts for some jewelry , as well as a cognac backpack that warms up the outfit. (Le Feuillet backpack, National Standard sneakers, BonneGueule Essentiels jeans)
Stretch blue jeans
Much more than a simple variation
This is the little brother of our stretch grey jeans. I'll tell you something: at first, I wasn't particularly excited. I even thought "Well, it's like the stretch grey, but in blue".
And yet… When Alex gave me the prototype to test, without realizing it, I became quite attached to these little blue stretch jeans . Obviously for their comfort, but not only...
A precise cut
The latest little improvements to the fit have pleasantly surprised me, and I now find it's one of the best-fitting jeans I own (I've gotten a lot of compliments on it).
A modern cut, flattering the figure without constricting it. (Paire & Fils ankle boots)
Small aesthetic detail: the interior seams have been braided.
Ultimately, these jeans are for those of you who simply want a pair of jeans that are comfortable thanks to the 1% elastane, with a true semi-slim fit , and easy to wear in a variety of outfits . Quite simply.
Note that like the gray, it will relax a little. Just take it slightly tight at first.
Careful manufacturing
It is made in Portugal, in the same workshop as our grey jeans, and our standard selvedge jeans .
And the fabric comes from Türkiye, a country where there is a lot of expertise in denim.
Finally - and this is where I didn't expect it at all - I detect an interesting fading potential in the canvas. Indeed, some corners of the back pockets have slightly whitened, and I think that in a few months, the fading will be quite good.
Letting his James Dean side run free, Luca pairs his jeans with a white t-shirt, not forgetting the badass boots that go with it. He finishes the ensemble with a beige wool hunting jacket, definitely giving the look some sparkle. (Gant Rugger jacket, Muji t-shirt, Meermin boots, neighbors' cat optional)
Jeans, plaid shirt, safari jacket... There's no doubt about it, it's definitely a workwear look. Unsurprisingly, blue jeans fit perfectly into it. Think about mustard-colored jackets, especially if they have a rich texture like here with coated cotton. Rarer, they are no less easy to wear but will bring originality to your looks. On the other hand, it's better to go light on accessories when wearing these shades. A blue canvas bag is perfect (Bastong safari jacket, BonneGueule - Japan Line shirt, Rains bag)
Note: we would like to take this opportunity to thank Arnaud for taking part in the photo shoot, as well as the Renaissance Hotel for welcoming us during the shoot.
How to choose your size?
This is a completely normal sizing, just take your usual size.
The Essentials line is now available
Visit the BonneGueule e-shop to discover all the pieces in detail.
