Warm coats for winter: our 3 new wool arrivals

The days are getting shorter and temperatures are dropping: it's time to bring out your
coat. But it needs to be warm enough. The first thing to look at is
the weight of the fabric: above 400 g/m², a wool coating fabric is considered
heavyweight, offering excellent insulation against the cold and wind.

That's exactly what you'll find in our three new coats, all made from wool fabrics by Italian mill Manteco:

• The Anvers duffle coat (515 g/m²)
• The Chicago polo coat (440 g/m²)
• The Bolsano overcoat (440 g/m²)

They're available now on our online store and in our stores in Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux.

Overcoats, parkas, shearling jackets, peacoats, fleeces… over the years, we've explored plenty of different types of outerwear at BonneGueule. Yet there was one classic we hadn't tackled: the duffle coat. And it's a menswear staple with a fascinating history. More importantly, it has every reason to belong in a modern urban wardrobe:

• Its toggle fastenings give it more character than a parka, while its wool fabric makes it feel less technical;
• Its hood and exceptionally thick wool offer better protection from the cold than a conventional overcoat.

Like so many menswear classics, the duffle coat started life as a practical garment.

Its origins are often traced to the Belgian town of Duffel, but that's not quite the whole story. What originated there, in the 15th century, was the fabric: a coarse, exceptionally thick woollen cloth. The fabric then gave the coat its name.

The duffle coat itself emerged in the late 19th century, when John Partridge created a similar coat inspired by a Polish frock coat. Around the same time, Britain's Royal Navy was looking for a sturdy, warm coat to protect its sailors. The thick wool and hood made it a natural choice, as did the toggles, often made from wood, which were easy to fasten while wearing gloves.

The coat went on to become a fixture of the British military in the 20th century, particularly during the First and Second World Wars. Like the trench coat, the duffle coat made its way into civilian wardrobes in the second half of the century, thanks to the huge stocks of surplus military coats left after the war.

Cinema helped cement its status, notably on Jack Nicholson's shoulders in Carnal Knowledge (1971).

The Anvers has all the details that make the duffle coat an icon:

• A dense, warm virgin wool coating fabric from Italian mill Manteco, weighing 515 g/m² (720 grams per linear metre), to protect you from both cold and wind. Interestingly, we selected this fabric from a Manteco range inspired specifically by vintage military duffle coat fabrics;

• Traditional toggle fastenings, here made from horn by French supplier Corne et Corozo;
• A hood, of course;
• Two shoulder patches that reinforce an area historically exposed to wear and tear, and now let you carry a backpack without worrying about damaging the fabric;
• A throat tab: a piece that fastens across the front of the neck for extra protection from cold and wind.

It also brings its own distinctive details:

• An earthy taupe shade, blending brown and grey for a softer-looking alternative to traditional camel, navy or black duffle coats;
• A generous knee-length cut;
• A zip concealed beneath the front fastening;
• Two hip pockets with asymmetrical flaps, a signature detail also found on our Tottori jacket, Camargue shirt and Nikko and Otaru bags;

• Three inside pockets: two mesh pockets and one zipped pocket.

The Anvers is a true all-rounder. Its understated colour and comfortable fit open up countless styling possibilities.

Its taupe colour naturally lends itself to tonal outfits.

Pair it with different shades of brown and vary the textures (a flannel shirt, denim cargo trousers, brushed knitwear) for a look that's both harmonious and visually rich.

Here, the trousers and sweater differ in both shade and texture, while the shirt introduces a pattern and a slightly lighter touch without straying from the brown palette.

Pair the Anvers with a green overshirt, a clay-coloured merino T-shirt and a substantial pair of raw denim jeans.

Green, clay, navy and taupe each stand out clearly while working together to create a balanced outfit. In terms of proportions, straight-cut trousers and an overshirt complement the duffle coat's equally relaxed fit.

On rainy days, a duffle coat can take the place of a parka over smarter clothes, whether you wear a suit to work or simply enjoy dressing up. Shuhei Nishiguchi, for instance, occasionally shares this kind of outfit on Instagram, and it works beautifully.

The crisp wool of the navy suit plays against the rugged cloth of the duffle coat. The shirt is light and textured because this isn't an entirely formal outfit. Brown grained-leather brogues, both refined and slightly rugged, bridge the gap between suit and coat.

The Anvers has a fairly generous, straight and comfortable fit. Choose your usual size. If you're between sizes, size down.

It's been a few years since we last offered a double-breasted coat.

Elegant and protective thanks to the double layer of fabric across the chest, the Chicago draws inspiration from the English polo coat and is made from heavyweight Italian wool.

Does this coat have anything to do with polo? It does. It originated in late-19th-century England for a very specific purpose: keeping polo players warm between chukkers, periods of play lasting around seven minutes (a match consists of four to eight). This long, roomy, double-breasted coat, sometimes belted and featuring turn-back cuffs, was therefore known as a polo coat or wait coat.

Its traditional camel colour actually refers to more than a shade: originally, it was the fibre itself, the hair of the camel (camel hair): a luxurious, soft, warm and insulating material.

The polo coat crossed the Atlantic and found its way into prestigious American Ivy League universities in the 1920s, where it was worn by students at Princeton and Yale. Brands such as Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren later helped make it a staple of city dressing.

The Chicago retains the polo coat's defining features:

• Its iconic double-breasted design, with broad peak lapels;
• Its bright camel colour;
• Its generous, protective length, falling below the knee;
• Its distinctive front patch pockets.

We've also updated the design for a more contemporary feel:

• A heavyweight fabric from Italian mill Manteco, made from 100% recycled wool, with a substantial weight of 440 g/m² (640 grams per linear metre). Its colour is achieved without any dye: Manteco sorts the fibres to be recycled by colour, then blends them to create a new shade. The process, called Recype®, is explained on its website:

• Pockets with asymmetrical corners, a signature detail in our collections;

• Two practical inside pockets: one welt pocket and one mesh pocket.

This wool feels so soft and lofty that you could almost mistake it for a cashmere blend. Worn over your shoulders, the Chicago provides excellent warmth and a cocooning sense of comfort, enhanced by its double-breasted construction. It's made in Portugal.

Naturally, this coat works beautifully with smarter outfits: a suit, a blazer, Derby shoes, pleated trousers and so on. But here are three other looks to try, each with a different feel.

Surround this bright coat with darker pieces (navy, brown or black). That way, you combine the understated minimalism of a dark outfit with the impact of a statement coat that stands out in contrast.

Play with textures to bring the outfit to life: a soft, plush sweater, trousers in crisp wool and sleek, elegant smooth-leather loafers.

This elegantly cut coat also works with more substantial pieces: a burgundy sweater weighing almost 1 kg with a high collar, brown denim cargo trousers and black leather shoes, or even boots.

Notice how the bright camel pairs with deep burgundy.

Does a double-breasted coat always call for a smart outfit? Not at all. You can absolutely dress it down, and we'd even encourage you to.

Swap the shirt and blazer for a sweatshirt, hoodie or grey sweater; the wool trousers for faded jeans; and dress shoes for understated sneakers. To lean further into Ivy League style, try a printed sweatshirt, pleated chinos and burgundy loafers.

The Chicago has a slightly tailored fit that defines the silhouette and enhances its elegant character. Choose your usual size. If you're between sizes, size up.

First released in 2022, the Bolsano is our take on the navy overcoat. It returns this season in a warmer, more protective version, retaining everything that made the original so popular.

As its name suggests, an overcoat is worn over other layers (a jacket or sweater): it's the quintessential city coat. Navy is its most versatile colour, pairing just as well with light shades (ecru, pale blue) as with darker ones (grey, brown).

There are two classic overcoat styles: one with notched lapels, a little dressier, and another with a shirt-style collar, a little more casual. We've chosen the latter for the Bolsano: a cleaner, more modern silhouette inspired by the Balmacaan coat, perfect over a sweater or cardigan.

For extra comfort, we've also given it raglan sleeves, with no shoulder seam, creating a softer shoulder line.

We've also kept the fleece-lined pockets, which feel soft and warm on your hands.

• The fabric: the same as the Chicago, in navy. A soft, lofty coating fabric from Italian mill Manteco, made from 100% recycled wool and weighing 440 g/m² (640 g per linear metre), with a colour achieved entirely without dye.

• A longer, more protective cut: an extra 10 cm compared with the first version, for better protection from the cold. The Bolsano is still shorter than the Anvers and Chicago, making it the easiest to wear every day, whether you're walking or cycling.

Explore the contrast between the coat's deep navy and lighter pieces: the sky-blue shirt and ecru jeans are very light, while the lichen-green cardigan and taupe shoes sit somewhere in between, balancing the whole outfit.

Notice the khaki bag, which subtly echoes the cardigan.

As well as lighter colours, explore darker tones to embrace the season's mood.

Pair roomy, neutral-grey trousers with a brown Fair Isle sweater for a touch of character, then add brown grained-leather boots for even more texture.

Apart from the length, the fit is unchanged from the original version. If you've already tried a Bolsano, choose the same size.

• Looking for the warmest coat possible? Choose the Anvers. Its 515 g/m² wool, hood and throat tab make it the most protective of the three against cold, wind and rain.
• Do you often wear smart outfits? Choose the Chicago. Its double-breasted design doubles the layer of wool across the chest, while its below-the-knee length comfortably covers a suit.
• Want a versatile coat for everyday wear? Choose the Bolsano. It's
  shorter and easier to wear, and its navy shade goes with almost anything, from jeans to a
  suit.

Have a question or comment? Feel free to get in touch on our social channels ( Instagram, YouTube, Discord, by email at client@bonnegueule.fr) or come and try on our new coats, all available in our stores in Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux.