Warm winter coats: discover our 3 new wool styles

The days are getting shorter and temperatures are dropping: time to bring out your
coat. But it needs to be warm enough. The first thing to look at is
fabric thickness: above 400g/m², wool coating fabric is considered
heavyweight, offering good insulation against cold and wind.

This is true of our three new coats, all made in Portugal from wool fabrics by Italian mill Manteco:

• The Anvers duffle coat (515g/m²)
• The Chicago polo coat (440g/m²)
• The Bolsano overcoat (440g/m²)

They are available now on our online store and in our stores in Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux.

Overcoats, parkas, shearling jackets, peacoats, fleece jackets… over the years, we have explored many forms of outerwear in the BonneGueule collection. Yet there was one we had not explored: the duffle coat. It is a menswear classic with a rich history, and it has every reason to belong in a contemporary urban wardrobe:

• Its toggle fastenings give it more character than a parka, while its wool fabric makes it feel less technical;
• Its hood and exceptionally thick wool provide better protection against the cold than a classic overcoat.

Like many menswear staples, the duffle coat was originally a utilitarian garment.

Its origins are often traced to the Belgian town of Duffel, although that is not entirely accurate. The rough, very thick wool cloth used to make it originated there in the 15th century. The fabric, rather than the coat itself, gave the garment its name.

The duffle coat itself emerged in the late 19th century, when John Partridge created a similar coat inspired by a Polish frock coat. Around the same time, the British Royal Navy was looking for a sturdy, warm coat to protect its sailors. The heavy wool fabric and hood were ideal, as were the wooden toggle fastenings, which could easily be handled while wearing gloves.

The coat then became a fixture of the British military throughout the 20th century, particularly during the First and Second World Wars. Like the trench coat, the duffle coat spread into civilian wardrobes in the second half of the century thanks to huge stocks of unused military coats after the war.

Cinema helped cement its status, notably when Jack Nicholson wore one in Carnal Knowledge (1971).

The Anvers retains everything that makes the duffle coat iconic:

• Dense, warm virgin wool cloth from Italian mill Manteco, weighing 515g/m² (720 grams per linear meter) to protect you from both cold and wind. Interestingly, this fabric comes from a Manteco range directly inspired by vintage military duffle-coat fabrics;

• Traditional toggle fastenings, made here from horn by French supplier Corne et Corozo;
• A hood, of course;
• Two shoulder panels reinforce an area historically exposed to friction and now allow you to carry a backpack without risking damage to the fabric;
• A throat tab that fastens across the neck for extra protection against cold and wind.

We have also added our own touches:

• A natural-looking taupe shade, blending brown and gray for a softer alternative to traditional camel, navy or black duffle coats;
• A generous knee-length cut;
• A zipper concealed beneath the button placket;
• Two hip pockets with asymmetrical flaps, a signature detail also found on the Tottori jacket, Camargue shirt and Nikko and Otaru bags;

• Three inside pockets: two mesh pockets and one zipped pocket.

The Anvers is a truly versatile coat. Its soft color and comfortable fit open up countless styling possibilities.

Its taupe shade naturally lends itself to tonal outfits.

Pair it with different shades of brown and mix textures (a flannel shirt, denim cargo pants and brushed knitwear) for a harmonious yet visually rich silhouette.

Here, the pants and sweater stand apart in both shade and texture, while the shirt adds a pattern and a slightly lighter touch, all within the brown color palette.

Pair the Anvers with a green overshirt, a clay-colored merino T-shirt and heavyweight raw denim jeans.

Green, clay, navy and taupe stand out clearly while complementing one another, creating a well-balanced silhouette. In terms of proportions, straight-cut pants and an overshirt balance the duffle coat’s relaxed fit.

On rainy days, the duffle coat can replace a parka over a tailored outfit, whether you wear suits for work or simply enjoy wearing them every day. Shuhei Nishiguchi sometimes shares this kind of look on Instagram, and it works particularly well.

The dry texture of the navy suit wool complements the rugged duffle-coat cloth. The shirt is light-colored and textured, as the outfit is not strictly formal. Brown grain-leather brogues, both elegant and slightly rugged, bridge the gap between the suit and coat.

The Anvers has a generous, straight and comfortable fit. Choose your usual size. If you are between sizes, size down.

It has been a few years since we last offered a double-breasted coat.

Elegant and protective thanks to the double layer of fabric across the chest, the Chicago takes inspiration from the English polo coat and is made from thick Italian wool.

Does this coat have anything to do with polo? Yes. It originated in late-19th-century England for a very specific purpose: keeping polo players warm between chukker, periods of play lasting around seven minutes (a match has four to eight). This long, generously cut double-breasted coat, sometimes belted and featuring turned-back cuffs, was therefore called a polo coat or wait coat.

Its traditional camel color is actually more than a shade: it originally referred to the fiber itself, camel hair : a luxurious, soft, warm and insulating material.

The polo coat crossed the Atlantic and reached prestigious American Ivy League universities in the 1920s, appearing on the shoulders of Princeton and Yale students. Brands such as Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren later helped popularize it in urban wardrobes.

The Chicago retains the defining features of the polo coat:

• Its iconic double-breasted design, with wide peak lapels;
• Its luminous camel color;
• Its generous length, extending below the knee;
• Its distinctive front patch pockets.

We have also updated the coat to give it a more modern feel:

• Thick wool cloth from Italian mill Manteco, made from 100% recycled wool, with a substantial weight of 440g/m² (640 grams per linear meter). Its color is achieved without any dyeing: Manteco sorts the fibers to be recycled by color, then combines them to create a new shade. This process, called Recype®, is explained on its website :

• Pockets with asymmetrical corners, a signature detail of our collections;

• Two practical inside pockets: one welt pocket and one mesh pocket.

This wool feels so soft and lofty that you might think it contains cashmere. Worn over the shoulders, the Chicago provides plenty of warmth and an enveloping sense of comfort, enhanced by its double-breasted construction.

Of course, this coat pairs beautifully with tailored outfits: a suit, blazer, Derby shoes, pleated trousers and more. Here are three other outfits to try, each with a different style.

Surround this luminous coat with darker pieces (navy, brown or black). This combines the understated minimalism of a dark outfit with the brightness of the coat, which stands out in contrast.

Play with textures to bring the outfit to life: a soft, plush sweater, crisp wool trousers and sleek, elegant smooth-leather loafers.

This elegantly cut coat also works with heavier pieces: a burgundy sweater weighing almost 1kg with a generous high collar, brown denim cargo pants and black leather shoes, or even boots.

Notice how well the bright camel works with deep burgundy.

Do you have to dress smartly with a double-breasted coat? Not at all. You can absolutely dress it down, and we even encourage you to.

Swap the shirt and blazer for a sweatshirt, hoodie or gray sweater; the wool trousers for faded jeans; and dress shoes for understated sneakers. To lean further into the Ivy League aesthetic, try a printed sweatshirt, pleated chinos and burgundy loafers.

The Chicago has a slightly tailored fit that flatters the silhouette and emphasizes its elegance. Choose your usual size. If you are between sizes, size up.

First released in 2022, the Bolsano is our take on the navy overcoat. It returns this season in a warmer, longer version, retaining everything that made it so popular.

As its name suggests, an overcoat is worn over other layers (a jacket or sweater): it is the quintessential city coat. Navy is its most versatile color, pairing just as well with light shades (ecru, light blue) as with darker ones (gray, brown).

There are two classic types of overcoat: one with notched lapels, slightly more formal, and another with a shirt-style collar, more casual. We chose the latter for the Bolsano: a cleaner, more modern silhouette inspired by the Balmacaan coat, perfect over a sweater or cardigan.

For greater comfort, we also gave it raglan sleeves, without shoulder seams, creating a relaxed shoulder line.

We have also kept the fleece-lined pockets, soft and warm for your hands.

• The fabric: the same as the Chicago, in navy. A soft, lofty 100% recycled wool cloth from Italian mill Manteco, weighing 440g/m² (640g per linear meter), with a color achieved entirely without dyeing.

• A longer cut: +10cm compared with the first version, for better protection against the cold. The Bolsano remains shorter than the Anvers and Chicago, making it the easiest to wear every day, whether walking or cycling.

Explore the contrast between the deep navy coat and lighter pieces: the sky-blue shirt and ecru jeans are very light, while the lichen-green cardigan and taupe shoes provide intermediate shades that balance the outfit.

Notice the khaki bag, which subtly echoes the cardigan.

Beyond lighter colors, explore darker shades to fully embrace the season.

Loose-fitting neutral gray trousers, paired with a brown Fair Isle sweater for a touch of originality and brown grain-leather boots for added texture.

Apart from its length, the fit is unchanged from the first version: if you have already tried on a Bolsano, choose the same size.

• Looking for the warmest coat possible? Choose the Anvers. Its 515g/m² wool, hood and throat tab make it the most protective of the three against cold, wind and rain.
• Do you often wear tailored outfits? Choose the Chicago. Its double-breasted design doubles the layer of wool across the chest, while its below-the-knee length provides good coverage over a suit.
• Want a versatile everyday coat? Choose the Bolsano. It is
  shorter and easier to wear, and its navy shade goes with almost everything, from jeans to
  suits.

Any questions or comments? Feel free to reach out on our social channels ( Instagram, Youtube, Discord, by email at client@bonnegueule.fr) or come and try on these new coats, all available in our stores in Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux.