One watch, one test: the Tudor Black Bay Blue 58

After testing the Mido Multifort Patrimony , it's time to return to a watch released in 2020. Of course, I want to talk about the unsinkable Black Bay 58 from Tudor. So let's dive into the deep blue with her.

BLACK BAY 58: TUDOR’S MUST HAVE

Two years ago, I introduced you to the first Black Bay Fifty-Eight . Output with a dial type “ gilt » , the watch had the great particularity of being the first Black Bay equipped with a new generation caliber from the Rolex group whose thickness has been reduced and by associating it with a case itself also refined with only 11, 9mm thick for a diameter of 39mm . This model, I suspected, would become the brand's little bomb.

Indeed, this model quite quickly found itself out of stock for a while because some watch enthusiasts were waiting of a model with these dimensions. The new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight arrived in 2020 with a new dial: a blue that goes back to the origins of the old Tudors.

50 SHADES OF BLUE

The shade of blue used by Tudor is quite specific to its history. The old Tudor Submariner customers have had certain special units in the past such as paratroopers or marine commandos who used these watches by opting for models in a rather particular blue. It does not tend towards too dark a shade but rather an intermediate shade.

Compared to the model 58 with the gilt dial, the new model therefore has a blue dial but also a bezel with a blue insert, this being in anodized aluminum .

ANODIZED ALUMINUM, TO LAST OVER TIME

Anodizing is an electrolytic oxidation process to form a layer of alumina on a material like aluminum. The aim is to reinforce the hardness of the aluminum surface and therefore make it more resistant to wear over time or small scratches for example.

Traditionally, bezel inserts were made of aluminum, so you will notice that vintage divers often have inserts that have aged with lack of color or patina, the color fading over time. Some brands have since opted for ceramic inserts. Other brands prefer the aluminum insert, while others can use a much less noble material, plastic, like the entry-level Seiko.

Ceramic tends to become more widespread but for my part, I like to see watches still using traditional aluminum inserts. In terms of appearance, ceramic inserts can sometimes be shinier at first glance, so aluminum can always be an option and especially if it tends towards more matte colors in order to vary models with ceramic inserts quite flashy.

Compared to the previous BB 58 model with its gilt dial, in addition to the use of blue, the new model presents a few points of difference. Thus the indexes are no longer circled in gold but in silver, which in my opinion gives a slightly more demure appearance than its big sister.

FEATURES ALWAYS AT THE TOP

Like its big sister, the new BB 58 is waterproof to 200m. Equipped with an MT5402 caliber from the group from which the brand comes, certified COSC, the watch has 70 hours of power reserve which is current and which allows the watch to be left without problem for more than two days without having to wind it if by chance you change your watch during the week.

Much more important than the COSC certification, if we look at the architecture of the MT5402 movement, we see very clearly the relationship with the movements from the group of which Tudor is part and which placed very strong emphasis on quality and durability. reliability over time of its productions.

THE COSC AND CHRONOMETRY CERTIFICATIONS

The COSC is the Swiss Official Chronometry Control, a Swiss organization which establishes certifications for watches (mechanical or quartz). When we say that a watch is COSC certified, this means that it has been checked and that it guarantees the precision of the watch. To summarize, the watch will be subjected to seven tests over 15 days to check its precision by varying its positions and temperatures.

My opinion on the importance of the COSC is mixed : yes, it is always a plus to know that a watch has been controlled and that it is certified as meeting established chronometry standards. However, you should know, to cite just one example, that a movement known as the ETA 2824 in a Top finish and another in a Chronometer finish, the only real notable difference is the certification... both movements will have the same precision. it's just that one has been checked and certified and the other has not. Likewise, a standard finish 2824, well adjusted, will be able to comply perfectly with these standards as long as the adjustment is done correctly.

Also, many movements fit perfectly within COSC standards even if they have not been controlled. The important point is, in my opinion, not this certification but the adjustment of the movements and this is an essential point on which watch manufacturers must be vigilant - which is not always the case, certain brands being less demanding and providing a fairly wide tolerance regarding the precision of their movements.

New movements like the MT used by Tudor or the Master Co-Axial used by Omega – to name just these examples – are of excellent quality and they can even honestly overcome the COSC because their precision is higher compared to the thresholds tolerances accepted by this organization.

Thus, the COSC is in my opinion a selling point/stamp which seems somewhat outdated to me due to the arrival of new generation movements not to mention high quality vintage movements which, properly revised, would also deserve chronometer certification .

This certificate is now intended more to “reassure” the customer, if I may say so. In addition, other certifications exist such as the Vipère de Besançon – with, yes, a viper's head as a hallmark on the watch – which already existed in the 19th century and which was resurrected in the 2000s to certify chronometry and respect for the ISO 3159 standard.

A NEW TEXTILE BRACELET

Still in line with Tudor models, the watch arrives with a textile strap using Jacquard shuttle looms. The material itself is technical: it is polyethylene as mentioned in a previous article .

If we find the characteristic Jacquard pattern of the bracelet, it arrives in a navy blue shade with a line of light blue, a very small reminder compared to certain old military bracelets but a simple reminder because this bracelet is much more suited to an urban context in my opinion. sense.

One regret: previously, the textile bracelet came alongside the leather bracelet or the riveted steel bracelet. Since then, Tudor has offered it through an offer dedicated with a single bracelet and at the same price as the version with the leather bracelet, at 3160 euros, compared to the version with the steel bracelet at 3460 euros. Too bad because it usefully accompanied the other two options. So, it’s up to you to make your choice.

BONUS: THE TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 IN SILVER

Now, with Tudor, we are on familiar ground, the brand is continuing its momentum and deepening its Black Bay collection which represented a real turning point for it. It's hard not to recommend a Tudor Black Bay 58, especially with a new generation caliber and making wise choices in terms of color and materials, favoring more matte colors than other brands which tend towards flashier models. .

The latest novelty that I discovered at Tudor rather convinced me: the Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight 925. Silver is a material that I wanted to revisit again in watchmaking , having pocket watches myself. in this precious metal. The impression is different compared to steel: silver is like gold, “warm” to wear, a difficult impression to describe so I would advise you to try it if possible to see the difference.

Owners of old silver watches know: the disadvantage of this precious metal is that it tends to blacken over time and it is a malleable metal, like gold for this last characteristic. Except that it is possible, via alloys, to correct the properties of silver by adding a small proportion of metals which will give it properties to make it more resistant to oxidation and also make it less malleable.

Although the exact composition of the alloy used by the Black Bay 58 silver is held as confidential by Tudor I can reasonably bet on a dose of aluminum which has already been used by Tudor in its Black Bay Bronze to correct the tendency of these alloys to oxidize when the proportion of copper is too high as in most bronze watches on the market.

The taupe tone of the dial of this silver watch combined with a new variation of the textile strap of the watch fits it like a glove: very sober, the brand has also favored the use of a brushed silver case . Excellent point, we are a thousand miles from a polished watch. Thus, the color of the case is both different from steel but also much more refined than a polished steel watch.

Only regret: the visible back for this Black Bay 58 in silver whereas it does not exist on the other models in this line. It reveals the Tudor movement whose architecture is reminiscent of that of Rolex movements but which ultimately does not seem to me to provide much added value, the movement being optimized for its reliability and not for its aesthetics.

THE FINAL WORD

In any case, the two watches, the Black Bay 58 Blue and the 925, make me want a vacation, the steel one especially to spend a summer that we all hope to be relaxed and the silver one for the twist and for the return of a precious metal too long eclipsed for decades. See you soon for new watchmaking adventures.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

• Reference: M79030B-0003
• 39mm diameter
• Thickness: 11.9mm
• Brushed polished steel case, anodized aluminum insert
• Screw-down crown
• Domed sapphire crystal
• Mechanical self-winding movement MT5402
• 70 hours of power reserve
• Waterproof 200m
• Price: 3160 euros with the textile bracelet