Cover credit: Velasca
Many of you own at least one or two pairs of Oxford shoes, suitable for wearing with a suit.
And the question I often get about this is:
“Can I wear these oxfords with chinos or jeans?”
This is notably the message received this week concerning the one cut association + jean or one cut + chino which motivated me to write this topic:
Before answering the question, I invite you (if you haven't already) to read this article written by Jordan where he explains in particular six criteria which affect the degree of formalism of a shoe (color, material, assembly, stitching, sole and perforations).
We could also add the shape : the more tapered, "pointed" a shoe is, the more it belongs to the formal register. Conversely, the rounder a shoe is, the more casual it is.
The shooting angle is not quite the same, but we can see that the pair on the left ( Santoni ) has a more elongated shape than the pair on the right, which is rounder ( Velasca ).
In this regard, Jordan also kindly sent me a chart he had made but not used, classifying the degree of formality of oxfords and derbies according to their color:
Image available in higher definition here.
We see in particular that:
- The darker the shoe, the more formal it is.
- With equal color, leather, toe and perforations, a oxford will always be more formal than a derby.
Of course, this remains theoretical: a light brown wingtip Oxford shoe like this one will always be less formal than an elongated derby shoe whose quarters are worked in the continuity of the shoe and whose volume is measured, like this one .
Richelieu with jeans or chinos, it's a no
Jeans + oxfords or chinos + oxfords is a combination that I often see in the street, and which unfortunately doesn't look good the vast majority of the time.
Jeans are casual pants of workwear origin .
Chinos are also casual pants of military origin.
The level of formality with a Richelieu, a very formal shoe, is too far removed in both cases.
Jeans and chinos therefore do not go well with Oxfords and we do not recommend this combination.
I understand that this might be tempting. Unfortunately, it doesn't look very good. Credit: Jules&Jenn
The formality gap between these black chinos and these black oxfords is too high. Source: Style Sample Mag
One cut + casual pants: answer to Leo’s question
"Can you wear a one cut with jeans? Chinos? Flannel pants?
As a reminder, the one cut Oxford shoe is the most formal shoe there is. It only has one piece of leather and therefore there is no stitching on its upper.
It is even more formal than the hard-toe Richelieu or the perforated Richelieu.
On the left a Crockett & Jones one-cut Oxford; on the right a Carmina cap-toe Oxford
The presence of seams on the Carmina makes it a less formal model.
Given what was stated in the previous section, we therefore understand that one cut has no place with jeans or chinos , whatever the color of the shoe, and whatever the model of jeans or chinos.
The very nature of the one cut makes it too formal to be worn with even slightly casual trousers.
We like the approach of In Corio (from which this photo is taken), but black one-cuts with fitted green chinos... it doesn't work.
And with flannel pants? I would say... why not, as long as the pants are very sober: a plain, dark flannel, a straight cut, a clean drape on the shoe, without cuffs.
Something like this in idea, removing the sewn hem at the bottom of the leg. ( Suitsupply pants)
“Is there really no way out?”: How to wear Oxfords with jeans or chinos
You can get away with matching the style of the shoes to the pants and therefore choosing a more casual oxford.
Here is an example:
Fairly light color and very present perforations. Meermin
Here is a look with raw jeans:
Source: Michael84
I'm not a big fan of this combination, but I find that it's still acceptable: the colors complement each other well and the slightly rustic look brought by the perforations is consistent with the raw appearance of the jeans.
Here is another example:
Suede leather and rather light color here too. Morjas
Below is another look with a darker colorway paired with a light wash Levi's 501, which I think works well:
The suede leather really helps to make the shoe more relaxed. Its distinctive look distracts our eye, almost making it forget that we are dealing with Oxfords here.
The right color combination and the right fit of the jeans help create cohesion.
In both of the outfits above, chinos could also have their place. But not just any chinos : chinos that are not too tight, in a solid color, and absolutely the right length.
Here is an example with these 100% cotton pants with a front pleat and offset buttoning at the waistband. These pants are a bit like the classic wool dress pants:
To remember
- The more formal your Oxford shoe is (if it is made of smooth black leather, if it is a one cut, etc.) the more difficult it is to wear it with casual pants like jeans or chinos.
- With a oxford, the cut and length of your bottoms are essential. Pants that are completely faded, have holes at the knee, or are too long do not belong with dress shoes.
- The best solution for wearing oxfords with casual pants is to go for a casual model (lighter color, suede leather, perforations, slightly rounded shape, not too pointed)
