Le Point Couture: a short guide to sewing points

Already, I asked myself the question of what a sewing point was.

So yes, it makes sense since we can all observe what it looks like. Unless we have decided to live far from civilization and have returned to nature, alone and self-sufficient, we all wear clothes.

We could just take the first t-shirt or jeans that come to hand and show this link uniting two pieces of fabric by answering me “that’s it”. It still seemed relevant to me to give a clear definition of the thing.

In a nutshell, a stitch is a series of loops of thread used to join pieces of fabric together . It is also called a stitch . This series can vary in terms of length, spacing between stitches, and therefore technique. Which we will see right after.

These stitches are used to assemble, reinforce or decorate seams. They are essential to create well-made clothes. In short, these seams are what make up the garment. Without them, there would be no garment.

There are a myriad of sewing stitches, each with its own uniqueness and particular utility in creating clothing .

I hope I've piqued your curiosity with all this. So, thread your needle (like in the video below. I'm subtle, huh?), and before you start sewing, let's take a look at the materials used.

There are four types of machines: flatbed, overlock, coverstitch and embroidery machines.

I will mainly focus on sewing and overlocking machines , since these are the ones that do the vast majority of seams .

The flat bed sewing machine:

Whether in industry or at home, we use a sewing machine that can be (very) specialized in a type of sewing. In both cases, the sewing is intended to be:

• to join two pieces of fabric together;
• to adorn;
• finish and protect an edge;
• sew buttons/buttonholes, straps, etc.

The overlocker

Like the flat bed sewing machine, it is available in both industrial and family sizes.

Essential for garment edge seams and finishing, this versatile machine allows assembly and overcasting in a single pass. It excels in working on delicate fabrics such as jersey and cotton voiles, and gives them a certain extensibility:

Anatomy of the flat bed sewing machine

This machine is used for all types of “traditional” sewing. I’m going to focus on it a bit more than its cousin the overlocker since it’s the most common machine and with which you can make a myriad of different stitches if you have a bit of technique.

A machine will include:

• a needle (at least);
• a thread lifter which will tighten the stitch;
• thread tensioners which adjust the tension of the sewing threads;
• a needle plate with one or more holes for the needle to pass through.

Below the needle plate is a small spool of thread called a “bobbin,” held in a bobbin case that is the bottom thread.

The types of needles used

Each type of textile has its own needle .

They come in all shapes and sizes, each of which will have its use. The diameter varies from 60 to 110 mm, and mathematically the thicker the fabric, the higher the millimeter you will need to choose a needle.

They are highly accurate and meet strict manufacturing standards to fit all sewing machines.

The standard needle, for both natural and synthetic materials with its slightly rounded tip.

For this needle, you must choose the dimensions according to the fabric to be sewn:

• A size 60 to 70 is suitable for cotton or linen fabrics,
• The universal needle 70 is suitable for fine synthetic fabrics,
• Standards 70 to 80 are suitable for sewing shirts or dresses,
• Costumes, fabrics and sheets can be made using needles 80 to 90,
• Needles 90 to 100 will be useful for making tablecloths and light coats.

The needle for jersey and lycra (and any other elastic material), which has a rounded point to spread the stitches of the fabric without breaking the fibers. It also prevents hems from curling.

The Microtex needle, for very fine fabrics. Its fine, sharp point easily inserts into fine fabrics or dense materials such as microfiber, silk, sequined fabric, nylon, polyester or poplin.

The “stretch” needle is almost the same as the needle for jersey and lycra, but it has a slightly pointed tip to spread the stitches of the fabric without breaking the fibers. It also prevents hems from bunching.

The triangular-point needle with grooves to penetrate leather without breaking.

The denim needle has a fine chrome tip, to more easily penetrate thick and tight fabrics without damaging the material. Its shank is reinforced to prevent it from deviating, breaking, or skipping stitches.

And how does this fabulous machine work? Well, a video is worth a thousand words, here is a video showing a machine in action. Little teaser: it's a shuttle stitch!

Moreover, some machines have air jets to cool the needle which heats up from being used and rubbed on the textile. It has happened that in some workshops, the needle heats up so much that burn marks appear. This is particularly the case when making jeans, silk, etc.

Okay, now that we're clear on the hardware part, let's get down to business.

First of all, you should know that all the sewing stitches I am going to discuss are commonly used in fashion, with a few exceptions that I will detail if necessary.

Single, double or triple straight stitches

This is the basic stitch par excellence in sewing, which can be done on a standard sewing machine. The needle passes through two layers of fabric at regular intervals.

This stitch is used for assembly and topstitching. And on that note…

The topstitching

This is the tip of the iceberg, we really find them everywhere: it is a simple/double/triple straight stitch, but which is visible .

This stitch is not limited to an aesthetic role; it also helps to strengthen the assembly.

The shuttle stitch (or knotted stitch)

It is a stitch consisting of two threads intertwined by a needle and made on a flat bed sewing machine (which I showed you a little further up). The sewing is identical both on the right side and on the wrong side of a garment. It has two major advantages: it uses little thread, and it is the only stitch that can be done in reverse .

It is used in particular to make stop stitches (we will come to this just after) which block the beginning and the end of the seam. It is used more by individuals.

It is popular for assemblies and assemblies with fabrics because of its low extensibility . On the other hand, for knits, precisely because of its low extensibility, it is used for:

• the assembly of the collars;
• mounting the buttonhole tabs;
• to place pockets;
• fixing logos
• the assembly of leather parts…

Highly extensible, it assembles and protects the edges in a single operation.

This sewing has its own machine, the overlocker, and has a blade (a knife) that will cut the edge of the fabric and sew simultaneously. It is really found everywhere.

The zig-zag stitch

Like its cousin the straight stitch, this is a stitch that is commonly used, particularly for finishing. It is sometimes used instead of the overlock stitch.

In retouching, we can make a zig-zag stitch which will add thickness, and cover a hole in a garment for example.

Its main characteristic is its great extensibility. It is a stitch mainly used for women's lingerie to attach elastics, and regularly used for:

• the hems;
• the fixing of cords (small cord of thread, silk, gold or silver);
• elastic leg and waist assembly;
• edge to edge assembly;
• ornamental stitching;
• the inlay and lace pose…

Chain stitch (single and double thread)

The chain stitch can be done with one or two threads, to simulate a chain that adorns the garment.

In the case of the 1-thread chain stitch, it is often used for temporary seams , such as for attaching labels or stickers.

As an aside, this is the stitch used on large packets of flour or pet food to seal them: the bags are hermetically sealed, but you just have to pull on the thread to easily undo it and open it.

For the 2-thread chain stitch, it is more often used for sweater assemblies.

In both cases, it is used as a detail that enhances a garment and gives it a certain elasticity, made possible by its extensibility.

Special mention for jeans, where purists particularly appreciate this finish, because it promotes a more pronounced fading at the hem resulting from the uneven tension of the machine during sewing.

English sewing

With the English, we often lend each other the origins of the names of specialties or objects. We like to pass the buck on the names. For example, what we call an English horn, they will call it “French horn”. For fries, “French fries” (well “chips” for the Brits). Besides, the debate is closed: fried potatoes are Parisian. But the Belgians have undeniably sublimated the dish.

Well it's the same with this seam: the English call it “ French seam ”.

It seems that when you are not satisfied with a discovery, you attribute it to the English. And vice versa.

I digress.

The English seam is particularly strong, neat and discreet : its rendering is clean and clear, without visible edges on the reverse side. It is used especially when making a garment that requires the finishes to be invisible or sewn into a very fine fabric .

This double stitching not only offers elegant and invisible finishes, but it also avoids overlocking (which, as a reminder, requires shaving the fabric and then protecting it with 3 or 4 threads).

This type of assembly is often used for (over)shirts, blouses, etc. To continue the metaphor, it's a bit like the Rolls Royce of seams on shirts.

It is to be distinguished from the folded seam however!

Although they are quite similar in appearance, the difference is in the stitching: the folded seams are visible, while the English seams are not.

This is the technique used for jeans, giving a fairly stiff assembly.

The saddle stitch

Finally, the saddle stitch (or back stitch) is a seam that joins two edges of fabric together in a strong and durable way. This stitch is most often used in leather assembly . It is also applied to thick fabrics such as denim, tarpaulin or quilted canvas , but it is less common.

It is often sewn by hand because it gives a more aesthetic and solid result.

It is particularly strong and is used in applications where the strength of the seam is essential. It is a hand sewing technique that requires patience and precision.

It creates a decorative raised border around a piece of fabric, notably giving an irregular wave appearance.

On that note, fun fact: the term "bourdon stitch" gets its name from the resemblance of the border it creates to the wings of a bumblebee: when done correctly, the stitch forms a series of loops or knots along the edge of the fabric, creating a texture reminiscent of the shape of the wings.

The cocotte point

Also used for the edges of clothing, cocotte stitch is a hand embroidery technique that creates a raised texture in the form of small knots or loops on the fabric.

This stitch is also known as the "French knot stitch" because of its resemblance to knots.

It seems that the name “cocotte stitch” is derived from the appearance of the tight little knots that are reminiscent of the texture of a cocotte. You know? Casseroles.

Cocotte stitch is commonly used in embroidery to add texture and relief to embroidered designs.

This concludes this overview of seams. Now it remains to be seen which ones are the most popular in our country.

At BonneGueule, we are not going to revolutionize sewing. We use the aforementioned “basic” seams like other brands, but we emphasize some of them. Details are part of our DNA, and even if our goal is to interest as many people as possible, we also think of the most assiduous and purist among you.

• Chain stitch on jeans: this finish appreciated by “denimheads”. Not all jeans have a chain stitch: this finish is found more in the mid-range or high-end because of its elegance, but also its lack of solidity. It is with this stitch that vintage jeans hems were made. Only certain machines are capable of doing it on denim because of its thickness. It is found on (almost) all of our jeans, on canvases from both Japan and Italy, whether visible or discreet.

• On the majority of our shirts, we will use the folded seam.
  But for some chosen ones, the English seam will be the order of the day, even if the difference between the two is minimal. And in the second case, it is always used with attention to detail: the seam will embellish our shirts, while remaining solid and discreet.

• The half-moon stitches that complete the stop stitches on some of our pants and suit jackets, which reinforce and embellish the corners of piped pockets.

A small selection of our products which have this famous half-moon:

A concrete example: the stitching of our pieces

You will never lose the thread again with these few explanations and examples.

To conclude and make this article a little more fun and concrete, I suggest that we look at some of our pieces from all angles (I'm on fire today) with our Soncino pants and Renji jeans, and our Volpaia shirt.

Straight stitch and topstitching:

The stopping point:

The half-moon stopping point:

The chain stitch:

English sewing:

That's it for this little tour of the different types of sewing. There are many others, but here are the most important ones. I hope you enjoyed this guide!