Hi, obviously you can read this excellent tie topic, but we just wrote a fresh one, by Jordan. To read it, it's here .
Tie [kʀavat] nf: “ Long and narrow strip of fabric which is passed and tied under the collar of the shirt, hanging on the chest”.
Historically, it is a silk ribbon that Croatian soldiers enlisted by Louis XIII tied around their necks.
More practical than the strawberries and other lace of the time, the tie then gained popularity at the King's Court. However, its only function is to show that its owner can spend on superfluities to the point of purchasing precious fabric and wearing it without fear of damaging it in war or hunting.
The shape of the tie eventually evolved into the shape we know today. The men therefore kept this accessory ornament, the last vestige of the prestige of the costumes of the time (although the ermine lining has disappeared...).
The biggest PIMP in French history.
But you didn't come for a history lesson, did you? This won't help you tie that famous piece of fabric. Besides, the last time you were shown how to do it was at your aunt's wedding and there's no way you'll remember it.
For those who don't wear a suit every day, as soon as the opportunity presents itself, you never know how to go about it. And for those who wear them daily, we forget that simple tips can add a subtle touch to an outfit.
Let's see together how to get away with colors, materials, patterns and brands.
Why wear a tie?
" Because it's like that ".
When I was younger, I often heard this response when I was forced to pass one on rare occasions. But it's over now, I even enjoy it as soon as the context allows it.
A man is judged by his tie: it is representative of his taste. Ultimately, it is in the choice of his accessories that a man will be expected, even if his suit costs a week's worth of gasoline in a Hummer. If there's one thing you can't buy, it's good taste... and the tie is there to prove it: it must be appropriate to the situation.
Imagine the outfit without a tie, something would be missing...
A matter of context
But then, which tie to choose?
THE perfect tie does not exist. Everything will depend on the context - board of directors, wedding, funeral, brunch with Florian and Luca -, your personality and your desire. from the moment.
However, certain sneaky mistakes should be avoided at all costs: Christmas motifs, logos... The point of a tie is to enhance your outfit, to create a play of colors and materials between the pieces of your outfit.
A Mickey tie doesn't enhance anything at all. Save it to make the little cousins who come to the house for a weekend laugh... Well, it doesn't happen that often and that's a good thing, but you never know.
A plain tie, coupled with a sober shirt, has the effect of calming down a more assertive jacket. (Credits Streetsfn)
Silk as the only solution?
The one that first comes to mind is the smooth silk tie. Classic, it will be suitable for the professional environment and for all occasions requiring a certain discretion.
Moreover, it becomes difficult to distinguish with the naked eye a tie made of synthetic material (to be avoided) from a real silk tie. To tell the difference between the two, just let it slip through your fingers. A silk tie should grip the slightest roughness of the skin while a synthetic tie will slide perfectly and without a hitch.
Different weaves exist, precisely to provide more texture to silk which is often too smooth.
Silk grenadine is obtained by much slower weaving on old machines. It’s a fairly rare texture that brings a real stylistic plus.
Jacquard also offers a textured finish, allowing you to play with materials by combining it with a smooth suit and an Oxford shirt for example.
The unique rendering of a silk grenadine...
Cashmere, for example, is a material as precious as silk and very interesting. Its softness gives it a very pleasant creamy hand. It will also provide beautiful shades of color depending on the brightness. It's a good alternative for anyone who would like to try something different.
Generally speaking, some materials are more relevant than others depending on the season. Linen and cotton correspond to summer outfits while wool, cashmere and tweed are more reminiscent of winter inspirations.
It is therefore a vast field of experimentation and composition that is offered to men; The most important thing is to see it as a game!
The knitted tie has come back into fashion and fits everywhere. We find it in preppy looks for example, but also on more classic or casual outfits. Depending on your environment, a knitted tie in the office will not be accepted everywhere (high finance, law firms).
What about the colors?
Ask yourself what you will wear with the tie you are going to buy : it will quickly cost you dearly if each model only goes with one shirt.
Plain ties
A plain tie is much easier to match than its patterned counterpart. However, few adopt it... Go back to your basics, take a few plain ties in different colors and you will be ready for all occasions.
Remember all the same that it remains very formal associated with plain clothes as well , but it will calm the ardor of your shirt or your jacket when they feature rather showy patterns. It is therefore THE tie to have, in different textures to no longer have problems.
Overall, you will have very little risk of going wrong with blue, green or even burgundy. You can also go for stronger shades to spice up your looks, like mustard.
In the middle of a shades of blue, don't hesitate to wear ties in strong shades. They will brighten up the whole thing.
Ultimately, if you just wear plain ties, no one will blame you. But for those who are already familiar with it and want to introduce a little complexity into their outfits, read on.
Patterned ties
More complicated to integrate, don't ban them! Some tips will help you tame them:
- If you're wearing a patterned tie and shirt, choose them in different shapes and sizes . No one wants to look like an optical illusion...
- The “polka dots”, stripes and other patterns on a tie should not be too big or too contrasting .
A measured pattern, without big polka dots or garish colors.
“Rémi, how should I wear my tie?”
Excellent question! We're going to kill two birds with one stone by showing examples that should not be copied!
Red card...
The right height
Not being a phallic substitute, the tie does not fall below the belt?. Basically, the tip should brush the top of your waistband and that's it.
Right at the waistline. No more no less !
Even if it seems logical, also make sure that it remains straight . It would be a shame if this detail detracted from your appearance.
Contrast, always contrast!
If your tie is the exact same color as the shirt, what's the point?
When going with a blue shirt and tie combo, make sure that the shades are different. In this case, it will be much easier to opt for a darker accessory than the shirt.
Conversely, a tie that is too busy can ruin a look. Large patterns should be handled with caution; we advise you to opt for something discreet.
Too wide, too thin?
Choosing a tie is also a matter of width! Especially since I too often hear men asking the question of the trend:
To be in the game, should my ties be wider or narrower?
In fact, it will depend on your body type. A wider tie will look better on a broad-shouldered physique.
The ideal width is 8 cm , we consider that it fits all men. Beyond that, it is at your own risk.
A width of 8 cm will generally suit all body types. Beyond that, they are to be reserved for very strong physiques only.
We also consider that the width of the tie must be proportional to the lapels of the jacket. Slim ties prohibited, therefore, with your double-breasted blazer with a 10 cm lapel!
A suitable knot
If the knot on your tie is too big for the shirt collar, or conversely too small, the result will appear unbalanced.
The more ties you wear, the more you will enjoy varying the knots. In the meantime, a simple knot still remains effective . If you want to know how to tie it, don't hesitate to watch or rewatch the video at the top of the article!
Is the costume obligatory?
Wearing a suit is NOT required : a tie can add a little touch of elegance to slightly less formal outfits, such as a leather jacket or cardigan.
(Credits: Paul McGregor)
Selection of the best brands
Bruce Field
Bruce Field and a French brand already tested which offers 100% silk ties from €29. This is a good way to take the plunge for those who would like to try their first tie or add to their collection without paying the full price .
Jicqy les peepers
This tie is made of linen, handmade and in a limited series. Its use will be more casual, we can easily imagine it with jeans or in a "country look", using brown and beige tones on a white shirt.
The manufacturing details are amusing and well worth a visit to the Jicquy workshop to see all the originality of the creations.
Howard's
Howard's ties are one of our favorites. The colors are deep, the stitching is neat, and there are a multitude of pretty details. The brand is also distinguished by the fabrics used, offering a wide choice of materials.
Calabrese 1924
Another beautiful Italian manufacturer that offers entirely handmade ties. Very flexible and light, you can make them “spring” from your collar.
These Calabrese ties are made of seersucker, a very light material that we are used to seeing in summer.
Cinnabar
Cinabre offers a wide range of models, in various styles and materials. Notice to newbies: the brand offers selections by theme, from the office to weekends in the countryside, including several types of weddings.
They take great care in the making, take a look at their video.
You can also turn to these stores
- Monsieur London and his very British inspirations, perfect for your weekends in the country .
- Maison de la Cravate, offering a very large choice.
-
Drake's London is a reference in this area. The fabrics are sublime
and high quality .
To go further: blogs on the great tradition of the tie and its uses
- Gentleman Gazette: only in English. Articles on all bespoke and sartorial culture.
- Parisian Gentleman: a widely followed blog, renowned for its impartial and sharp opinion. A lot of information processed in a French language bordering on Molière fetishism. I adore.
- Stiff Collar: A very good check-up of the men's wardrobe. Pleasant to read and well documented. You will discover, among other things, the real brands of ties from English houses.
