Our ultimate summer pants guide

So yes, when the heat is there, when it falls like a sword of Damocles on the top of our skulls, we can have this irrepressible desire to lighten as much as possible the quantity of fabric we carry on ourselves.

But maybe deep down, it's not a good reflex...

When I see how the Berbers dress in the desert, it makes me doubt. And it should make you doubt too. They only wear long clothes. I believe that it is precisely to protect themselves from the sun's bites.

So if you feel like you have the Berber soul and want to wear pants in summer, we are here to guide you. At BonneGueule, we believe that not only is it possible but it is also desirable for a lot of good reasons that I will outline here.

Obviously, you can't do it haphazardly . Hence this guide. Let's go.

Sorry to be a bit technical. But not all materials are equal when it comes to comfort in the heat. And the reverse is obviously true (in the cold I mean).

Roughly speaking, a fabric is four parameters to take into account: the type of fibers used, the type of weave, the density and the thickness.

Some definitions to help you understand:

• the type of fibers : cotton, polyester, linen, lyocell etc. in short the origin of the material
• the type of weave : how the threads are woven
• density : the number of warp or weft threads per square centimeter (density is linked to the way in which the weaving was carried out - we have more or less “open” weaves and this will particularly interest us here).
• the thickness … of the wires: what diameter of wire are we talking about exactly? 200 microns? More? Less?

Let's get into the details.

You see us coming... If not, then you don't know us well.

The answer to this problem is simple: you need natural materials . I know that some brands make you believe that they have developed a certain type of super high-performance polyester for summer etc. but I say it: it is a lie (apart from sports or outdoor uses, a polyester will never beat the breathability of cotton or linen in summer for example).

I got fooled when I was younger. I remember a long, uncomfortable evening swaying on a leather bench. Wondering if, when I got up, anyone would see my sweat through the supposedly revolutionary fabric. I solemnly promised myself that I would never fall for it again. And that I would warn you!

I would still qualify this by saying that below 10% of synthetic material such as elastane to add comfort, there is no problem.

Favor:

• cotton
• flax
• wool (yes)
• hemp
• silk

But that's not all. We must also talk about artificial materials ( I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT SYNTHETIC MATERIALS (LIKE POLYESTER) WHICH SHOULD BE AVOIDED ):

• viscose
• the modal
• lyocell (and its derivatives including tencel)
• copper

These are artificially manufactured materials based on cellulose, which can be derived from several sources of plant materials (wood, leaves, branches, etc.).

Apart from the necessary aside on the toxicity of the viscose manufacturing process (in particular), we can say that from a style point of view, these very smooth materials do not appeal to us much in the development of a personal style , however effective they may be.

So, we come back to our initial answer: natural materials!

Advantages: flexible; soft; comfortable; breathable; easy to iron; easy to maintain; wide variety of textures, thicknesses and colors possible.

Cons: retains odors; can be a bit slick; can warp.

Advantages: texture; ultra breathable; hypoallergenic; does not retain odors; “freshness”; ecological.

Cons: Creases; may warp.

Advantages: does not retain odors; does not deform; insulating and thermoregulating properties; absorbs moisture well.

Disadvantage: maintenance.

Advantages: thermoregulatory; absorbs moisture well; resists abrasion well; limits bad odors; hypoallergenic; creases little; ecological.

Disadvantage: it itches.

Advantages: natural shine; thermal regulation; softness; elasticity (easily creased); strength.

Cons: expensive; sensitive to sweat.

Mixing materials allows you to erase or rather attenuate certain disadvantages and combine strengths. You can find all types of possible mixtures.

Here are 3 avenues to explore (among many others):

• Cotton-linen: for ultra-breathable pants, with texture and which maintain a certain hold.
• Cotton-hemp: same reasons as cotton-linen and cotton softens hemp (which itches I remind you). It is also a way to obtain a more ecological fabric (hemp and linen being much less water-intensive than cotton). The nuance being that it is much more difficult to recycle a mixed material rather than a single-fiber material.
• Wool-linen-silk: a little bomb of a material for summer, like our Toso pants which we will talk about later.

Well, let's talk little, let's talk well.

Tell yourself that a fabric considered lightweight will be less than 200g/m² (or 6 oz for jeans). So that's what you should aim for for summer use. I'm talking about summer when it's 30°C. When you're in the thick of it.

But we don't have to wear ultra-light pants all summer long. There are times when our mid-season pants and jeans are just fine.

To give a framework, knowing that the reality is not so strict, that it depends on many parameters related to the fabric and also your own feelings as a person , I would give these indications:

• Weight < 200g/m²: from 28-30°C
• Between 200g/m² and 250g/m²: from 16°C to 28°C
• Between 250g/m² and 300g/m²: from 12°C to 22°C

I say it again, I am deliberately caricaturing to give a framework. The reality (your reality) may not be this one.

And there is another element to take into account, which is the density of the armor .

Ok, we've established the basis.

But then another question arises: what about the density of the fabric and what type of weave should be preferred? The fabric can be cotton, but if it is very dense, very tight and does not let air through, it will not necessarily be very comfortable to wear when it is hot.

I'll put the definition here. Density is the number of warp or weft threads per square centimeter. The denser the fabric, the less suitable it is for the use we are interested in.

It's quite difficult to know as it is.

On the other hand, if you examine the fabric through transparency, you will be able to see if light is passing through and this will give you a good indication of whether the weave is quite open or tight.

For example, you should avoid canvas fabric, which has a plain weave with a higher thread density and, in addition, is particularly tight. This is how it is designed. This allows it to be very resistant to abrasion in particular, but for summer pants, this is not what we are looking for above all.

Be careful, a fabric can be heavy but with a very open weave. And that is why we should not disqualify fabrics just because they are heavy .

This famous waffle weave is obtained by the succession of warp threads of different tensions. So it is a more open weave by definition. And, in addition, as its appearance is waffle, it does not stick to the skin .

It is a very vaporous fabric induced by an extremely airy weave, so much so that it is often doubled to make only one fabric. And it remains perfectly adapted to the hot season.

However, it is quite rare on pants , it must be said. The reason for this is that it is quite fragile but it is perfect for indoor pants for example.

This material is part of the larger family of cold wools: wool materials with an airy weave. The best option to keep all your elegance in hot weather.

If I take my example of the Berbers from the introduction: they don't wear skinny jeans. They avoid the fabric touching the skin too closely and leave a passage for any air that might come and tickle them.

I recommend you do the same.

Having worn both, the sensations are incomparable between fitted pants and loose pants. In the first, even if you have found the most airy weave in the world in an exceptional blend of silk, linen, wool, hemp and pure oxygen and in a weight so light that it defies gravity, you will feel less good than in the second.

BUT I also know that the feeling of a garment comes from what we think we give off in this garment . I'm talking about the look. And some people can't stand the effect that the fullness gives. That's how it is. So if they don't feel good, paradoxically, they risk being hotter than in loose pants , because of stress, of what they perceive from the gaze of others.

For those, I still recommend going for pants that don't touch the skin while remaining close to the body. Reasonably. Air needs to pass through! Your buttocks, thighs, knees and calves will thank you.

Keeping in mind the following equation: the more you choose tight-fitting pants, the more you need to pay attention to ensuring that the weight of the fabric is light and the weave is open.

Opting for a loose fit is more permissive. And if these loose pants are made of an ultra-light and airy fabric, then the sun can really beat down, your damn footwork will save you.

First of all, I want to make one thing clear: for some people, high waist is not just a fancy; for some people, high waist is the cornerstone of their silhouette. Without that high waist, they don't look as good.

Allure, for those people, of which I am not far from being one, those people who feel the need to lengthen their legs, I say: the high waist is your salvation, the season does not matter. In other words, it is necessarily a good idea because the cut makes the silhouette.

However, for everyone else and even those who consider that high waist does them a favor but who do not consider that a medium waist is necessarily destructive, I say this: the hotter it is, the less you want to cover your body with fabric (of any kind) and since high waist by definition goes higher, then it also goes against this principle.

You see those shameless gentlemen who roll up their t-shirts in the summer to let their bellies breathe. Well, that's the feeling I'm talking about. Except that not all of us are ready to go to such shamelessness, but that's another debate.

So to sum up, yes, high waists are warmer. And it's purely a question of feeling. I personally feel more comfortable with a mid-rise that falls nicely just above the hips. I find that it doesn't flatten my figure and doesn't make me want to jump into a pool of freezing water.

If you have another opinion, guess what? It's totally valid.

Here again, I'm going to exaggerate a bit. He's a guide, that's normal. You expect a guide to suggest an itinerary and not to stop every 2 minutes saying: "we could go this way... or there too, it's a bit as you wish... what would you do in my place?"

You see the picture.

For those looking for their first pair of summer pants, just to taste the effect it has.

A pair of loose-fitting, light-medium weight, bleach blue cotton-linen pants , for all these reasons:

• it's cheaper than wool
• for the super combo of the mixture of these two materials as seen above
• You may already know the bleach color (do you have jeans like that?), it goes with everything!
• the loose cut as we have seen to let air pass through and prevent the fabric from touching the skin too much
• light-medium weight so you can wear it most of the summer and not just in hot weather

For those who already have their summer basics and are looking to take things to the next level.

A pair of green or brown seersucker pants (always loose) that are lightweight , for all these reasons:

• if he has the basics then you have to go and find a color that he doesn't have, just to have a little fun
• Seersucker brings a new texture to your outfits
• ample you know why
• light to go for the hot moments of summer

For those who bring out their summer pants with great enthusiasm (a little too much).

Trousers in a blend of exceptional materials that are always loose (obviously like the Summertime by Loro Piana with wool, linen and silk) , for these reasons:

• the super powers of matter
• the thrill of being able to respond to the heatwave with the most appropriate response possible
• the joy of being able to stay at the buffet of this wedding without a drop of sweat while everyone is under the marquee. Okay, a bit of a fantasy this one, I admit.

My personal view is that there is no right end to start with. There is your desire to get started and that is all that matters. I even think that you should take all this information as a guide but not take it literally.

If you had to remember only three things, they would be:

1. Choose a loose fit (or say pants where the fabric doesn't touch the skin).
2. Make sure the fabric is made of natural material.
3. The weave should be quite open.

And there you have it. Your expertise is there. And if the weave isn't all that airy after all, well, you'll wear these pants for those summer moments when it's not so hot and the world keeps turning and you'll keep walking the style path to your ideal summer pants.

You have everything you need to dress well.

You just need a little guide from time to time, to push you in the back. Count on us for that.

Discover our pants for the summer season: