For more tips on cuts, head over to the updated version of this article !
When it comes to jeans, when you don't know anything about it, you tend to think in binary terms: there are either baggy jeans or slim jeans that stick all the way down the leg (if you're at this point, first read our article on how to choose men's jeans ).
Someone who doesn't know much about it will almost always take refuge in the cut of wide jeans, to avoid the skinny cut which is not suitable for all body types.
And since he's been told for years that the most versatile jean is the Levi's 501, he'll end up with jeans that are too loose.
It's easy to avoid falling into the trap of being too wide/too tight.
Which cut of jeans should you choose?
As said before, the beginner thinks about fashion in a binary way: a garment is beautiful or ugly, a jacket is fitted or not, jeans are slim or baggy.
To progress in your style, you must overcome these preconceptions , which involves discovering the main cuts of jeans.
There are four of them, each adapted to a very specific silhouette and style:
The bootcut jean cut
The bootcut has disappeared from men for several years. It crushes the silhouette with its wide opening at the shoe level. You really have to be tall to be able to wear it.
Levi's 527 Bootcut.
The straight jean cut
The classic straight cut , the most iconic model of which is the Levi's 501. It is a timeless cut but may not suit everyone. Depending on each person's preferences, the width can be a hindrance.
The fullness in the thighs and calves can be impressive at first.
The slim jean cut
Slim jeans make the silhouette look disproportionate and give the impression of having jeans that are too small. If the jeans are of poor quality, the result will automatically be a failure. Conversely, some slim jeans can have an interesting aesthetic.
Here, for example, is a pair of well-cut slim jeans; they are neither too tight nor too loose.
The semi-slim jean cut
The straight cut, or semi-slim . The thighs are fitted, but the bottom of the leg keeps a decent opening (between 21 cm and 19 cm opening), we will come to this in a moment, because it is this detail that makes all the difference.
A well-chosen semi-slim jean looks like this! Nimes model. You see the difference with the 501
Why choose a semi-slim jean cut?
As you can see, even if other cuts can be interesting, I am a fervent defender of the semi-slim. Here's why:
- it adjusts your thighs and thus refines your silhouette without giving you matchstick-shaped legs,
- it highlights your buttocks without molding them,
- It suits a large number of body types . If you are slim, it will show you off admirably, without drowning you or making you look slimmer. If you are small, it will lengthen your silhouette, and finally, if you are a little stocky, it will refine it considerably.
I know! It may seem completely unnatural to wear a semi-slim fit if you're thin. But try it, and you'll see that the proportions are much more harmonious than with baggy jeans. Then again, when you've worn jeans that sag your entire life, trying on (and buying) a fitted pair of jeans can seem overwhelming.
However, remember that good style starts with precise cuts. This is why I have my clients try on several cuts. This way, they learn and come out able to identify the cuts that best suit their body shape.
To get an idea of this type of cut, just look at (and try on) our semi-slim Nîmes model with 18.5 cm opening at the 1/2 leg.
When jeans have a leg opening of between 20 and 21 cm (at this scale, one centimeter more changes everything), they have the advantage of allowing you to wear fairly slender shoes (a pair of Richelieus for example), something impossible with 19 cm (the feet would appear too long in relation to the body).
That said, jeans with a 19 cm opening go perfectly with high-top sneakers or ankle boots.
The fit of our Nîmes jeans
The ideal in the long term is therefore to have:
- jeans with a 21 cm opening to wear with slim or more imposing shoes,
- another 19 cm to accessorize with your sneakers, ankle boots and other small sizes.
Normally any good salesperson will be able to tell you what the opening of a model is or measure it upon request.
Remember that no matter how wide the legs are, the cut at the thighs and buttocks must be perfectly adjusted: no excess material. But rest assured, this is something that can be learned quickly.
Semi-slim, our favorite cuts
Here are the semi-slim models from the main brands that we recommend:
- Naked & Famous : unbeatable value for money for a good basic jean.
- Artisan Studio : for purists! A completely raw canvas, neither washed nor soaked. Be careful, take into account that the jeans will shrink 1 to 2 sizes after the first wash.
- Momotaro : a Japanese brand specializing in high-end jeans. Their pieces are incredible, as are the prices.
- Fullcount: beautiful Japanese denim, with a rather wide offer. High-end prices.
- Mister Freedom: a Californian brand with a very pronounced style. Very heavy jeans with very raw canvases.
Not forgetting our own jeans...
When it comes to artisanal selvedge denim, we don't mess around. So we went to get it locally, at Kurabo and Kuroki, in Okayama Prefecture, Japan.
We also have an ecological approach, with selvedge fabrics from Candiani, the cleanest spinning mill in the world, located in an Italian natural park.
And as for the washing, everything is done with ozone, to respect the canvas as much as nature and the craftsman.
