Everything you need to know to choose your jeans properly

Our previous guides on jeans dated back to 2007 and 2011 respectively... Years later, we thought it would be useful to summarize the essentials on this very important garment. In thirteen years, the offer and quality of jeans have evolved a lot, as have your expectations. So here we are offering you a brand new guide on jeans.

Men's jeans, their history, their life, their work

Men have always had a particular affinity with these pants, as evidenced by a barely outdated advertising language, erecting it as an emblem of virility.

More than a century after its creation, jeans have adapted to the times and remain the timeless basic that we love so much. To quickly go back over its history, we must go back to the beginning of the 19th century . The word jeans is a deformation of "Genova", or Genoa, the famous Italian city.

It was there that ultra-strong canvas transport tarpaulins were created, and the very first jeans were made from them. Nîmes, then a textile mecca, reworked this canvas to make it more flexible and adapt it to the demands of manufacturing. There are several hypotheses on the origin of jeans, but this is the most commonly accepted.

The "Nîmes" fabric became "denim" . In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis used it to offer underground miners tear-proof trousers, by adding rivets.

The different types of denim fabrics

The diagram above shows how to obtain the recognizable texture of denim: the weft threads are interwoven with the white warp threads.

1. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CLASSIC DENIM AND SELVEDGE

As seen above, on a selvedge the weft thread is not cut at the ends , offering perfectly finished and solid edges. This weave is obtained thanks to shuttle jet looms allowing the same thread to be launched from one edge to the other.

On an old loom, the shuttle goes from left to right, then back, which is less productive. Selvedge takes longer to make, and therefore less profitable for its makers.

Passionate about this fabric, we went to Japan a few years ago to see the making of selvedge with our own eyes :

Does selvedge seem too expensive for what it really is? Don't hesitate to consult our focus on the price of selvedge to find out more .

2. THE DIRECTION OF WEAVING OF THE THREADS

RIGHT HAND TWILL

The diagonals created by weaving usually start from the left and then go back up to the right , they are called "right-handed". These are the most common canvases.

LEFT HAND TWILL

If, on the other hand, the direction of the diagonal is reversed, it goes up towards the left and you then have a left-handed canvas , requiring two warp threads instead of just one.

Beyond an aesthetic particularity, these two canvases differ in their texture: the right-handed one is reputed to be smoother, while the left-handed one is said to have a softer feel .

BROKEN TWILL

Finally, Wrangler later invented broken twill . No diagonals, but a random weave orientation, hence its name "broken twill".

It combines the advantages of right and left handed fabrics to avoid twisting ...

In other words, it is supposed to prevent the jeans from deforming under the tension they undergo every day.

3. WEAVING, A GUARANTEE OF QUALITY?

Classic right-handed denim is ultra-dominant in the denim offering because it is cheap and quick to produce: air-jet looms produce it almost ten times faster than traditional looms .

Selvedge denim is gradually regaining its place in mid- and high-end ready-to-wear, alongside a renewed interest in strong and durable clothing.

Very concretely, in addition to its finished edges seen above, the self finished edge is a method of manufacturing denim which involves a tighter weave - more material per m², a heavier, thicker fabric, therefore more resistant. To simplify, it is denim manufactured with more care .

The color of the selvedge is of no importance , there can be blue or green selvedge for example. The old denim manufacturers used different colors of selvedge depending on the destination of the canvas. Thus, the selvedge was red when the canvas had to be delivered for Levi's, orange for Lee, etc ...

The natural wash of selvedge canvas

A beautiful job of dyeing gives a superb piece ready to follow you in all your adventures. The interest of buying raw jeans is to see the fabric fade over time . Why? Quite simply because it makes your jeans absolutely unique since the brands depend on your morphology, your gait, your activities...

This question of washing is fundamental to understanding the appeal of selvedge canvases: it is what makes selvedge so charming .

1. HOW TO AVOID GETTING STAINED WITH NEW JEANS?

Buying raw denim hoping it won't fade will inevitably lead to huge disappointments. No, if your selvedge canvas "loses" its midnight blue, it's not a sign of poor quality, quite the contrary!

Some purists consider that the indigo that fades everywhere is part of the pleasure of wearing new jeans . However, if you are not a fan of the idea, do not hesitate to soak them for 20 minutes in warm water , once or twice, to reduce this phenomenon... but know that the wash will be less contrasting.

For suede leathers, you would indeed be right not to put them in contact with new jeans too much, which will leave marks that are not always easy to remove. For smooth leather shoes, a quick wipe with a damp sponge from time to time, a cleaning milk 3 or Jason Markk will be a valuable help.

2. THE DIFFERENT WEIGHTS OF DENIM

A final classification of jeans can be made by... its weight! The unit of measurement is the oz , and it weighs about 28 grams. The weight indication is calculated for 1m² of fabric. To give you an idea:

• 9 to 11 Oz : lightweight canvas, summer jeans;
• 11 to 13 Oz : everyday canvas, four-season jeans;
• 13 to 16 Oz : thick canvas: for mid-season, winter, and those who break in their jeans quickly;
• 16 Oz and up : very heavy canvas (uncommon);
• 22 Oz : canvas for the bravest among you (its thickness and very cardboard appearance make walking uncomfortable the first few days).
• 32 Oz : the canvas is so thick that the jeans stand up on their own! Benoît talked about it during his visit to Naked and Famous . For denim purists, these thick canvases fade and patina even better than other canvases. The major drawback of these canvases is their roughness, they are not the most comfortable you can find.

How to evaluate the quality of jeans material?

We have always recommended selvedge unequivocally for its durability and its ability to improve over time. Should we forget about classic denim ? Obviously not, but there are always a few things to check to make the right purchase.

1. FIRST, A WELL-MADE CANVAS...

A good classic jean, due to its industrial production, should have a regular and smooth appearance .

If it is not tight enough, the material appears more heterogeneous in the light... We do not give much for the crotch which, sometimes, tears after only a few months of wear . This element of homogeneous and tight weaving of the material is important , just take a look at the reverse of the canvas inside the jeans for it to reveal some of its secrets...

Also be careful about the thread used to make the canvas . There are signs that don't lie, such as fraying, threads that are too irregular/coarse... On a so-called "slack" canvas (non-selvedge), you shouldn't see the slightest vertical streak .

If a quality industrial denim must be regular, a selvedge should almost necessarily have visual irregularities . They are evidence of work carried out using traditional looms, which are slower, of course, but offer better quality. The raw appearance, the "cardboard" feel and the apparent robustness of the selvedge canvas are the result of particular know-how .

Choosing a selvedge canvas means choosing a piece that required time and patience from its maker. It's a premise: you appreciate beautiful things made with love.

2. SMALL INSERT ON SLUBBY CANVASES...

Be careful, some cutting-edge selvedge denim brands make so-called "slubby" or "neppy" fabrics, with a very grainy appearance, sometimes generously streaked, which could be mistaken for low-end fabric.

Not at all: some denim lovers love the "snowy" look of the wash of such an irregular and fluffy fabric.

3. RECOGNIZING A GOOD JEANS DYE

The last point to gauge the quality of a denim fabric is its color . The beautiful color comes from:

• a play between matter and light, with almost metallic reflections ,
• shades of color ,
• and a deep intensity .

Maybe look at those dull, faded jeans you find in big box stores: the contrast with a beautiful product will be immediately apparent.

4. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT ARTIFICIAL WASHES?

Obviously, it is not forbidden to be tempted by jeans whose color has already been worked on, even if they are less popular these days.

• Be careful that the canvas has not been too damaged during the operation , and that it does not appear yellowed or worse, green! Also avoid washes that are too clean and regular, which look far too artificial.
• The washing , or bleaching, may have been carried out using chemicals , brushing or even sandblasting , techniques which are criticized in particular because of the quantity of water required and their harmfulness.

There have been several cases of death from lung infections directly related to sandblasting activities . Fortunately, some brands have been able to innovate and new technologies are being implemented.

When in doubt, don't hesitate to carefully check the manufacturing process of those artificially faded jeans that catch your eye. You may not be safe from a (very) unpleasant surprise.

Designers like Marithé+François Girbaud revolutionized the denim industry . We owe them in particular the first washes they obtained by rubbing pumice stones on jeans: stonewashing .

With the rise of this technique, but especially because of the toxicity of the old industrial processes in place, they developed Wattwash, combining laser work and ozone treatment. Result: 97.5% water saved compared to the classic method.

Ultimately, a beautiful washed jean is expensive ! If you want to achieve a beautiful wash, it takes a lot of attention to detail, know-how and dexterity.

THE assembly and details of a good pair of men's jeans

In addition to a quality fabric, the assembly of the jeans must be impeccable if you want to keep them for a long time. It is not because the jeans are made of selvedge that the production is necessarily good, especially if they are entry-level products.

Let's address those little details that justify a high price tag.

1. SEAMS AND ASSEMBLY OF A GOOD JEANS

Start by looking at the seams of the piece . When it comes to clothing, the same criteria often come up: tight stitches, not too fine and aligned, reveal regular and careful work .

Conversely, on low-end jeans we see stitches of different sizes, sewn crooked and coarse.

With your jeans in hand, you can pull lightly on either side of a seam to assess its tightness. When the two panels move apart and light passes through the stitching, it's a bad sign...

Have no tolerance for fraying threads: while some purists prefer 100% cotton thread, it is less durable than polycotton thread (a blend of polyester and cotton) used by most brands. For jeans that last a lifetime, we naturally prefer a very durable thread.

For a more in-depth investigation, we also recommend taking a look inside a pair of jeans :

• Look especially at the inside of the thighs, which are more exposed to friction and wear.
• Don't forget to check out the rear seam at the butt and fly.
• Finally, make sure that the seams at the pockets and hems are of good quality.

2. THE DETAILS THAT MAKE THE DIFFERENCE IN A PAIR OF JEANS

THE STOP POINT

Thanks to it, friction, tension and other over-loaded wallets will not get the better of the pocket corners, which are often fragile. This type of reinforcement can be carried out by a good retoucher.

POCKET LININGS

If our pockets are going to hold our keys, cell phones, and a bunch of other stuff, then the pocket fabric should be thick and durable. Be careful not to make the fabric too thin .

CHAIN ​​STITCH HEM

This is a special case in terms of finishes. Contrary to what one might think, the chain stitch is less resistant than a classic stitch, but it is a notch above in terms of pure elegance .

Another advantage of the chain stitch hem: this is how vintage jeans were made in the past . A tribute to history, then.

COPPER RIVETS

Far from being a detail, copper rivets bring a form of nobility to the garment. To go even further in detail, some brands personalize their rivets in order to be even more recognizable.

In this specific case, it can be interesting when there is extra work and therefore special attention to detail.

THE COIN POCKET

The detail that makes all the difference: every good pair of jeans has a coin pocket. It's more aesthetic than practical, of course, but it's a real guarantee of quality.

Which cut of jeans should you choose?

Even though you can find some specificities from one brand to another, it is important to master the different cuts of jeans. Each cut is adapted to a very specific silhouette and style. To become an expert on this subject, this is where it happens .

1. THE STRAIGHT JEAN CUT

A straight cut is when the cut tightens very little (or not at all) at the knee. It is not necessarily the cut that will highlight your figure the most, but it allows you to give interesting volumes to your outfit. In addition, it is a versatile cut, which adapts naturally to you. Be careful not to swim too much in it, though!

2. THE CARROT (OR TAPERED) JEANS CUT

Unlike the straight cut, the carrot cut tightens from the knee. More modern, carrot cut jeans can be easily combined with other pieces. It is also more tolerant with developed thighs, and guarantees comfort when worn.

3. SEMI-SLIM JEANS (OR "SLIM STRAIGHT FIT")

This is THE cut we've talked about the most. The thighs are fitted, but the bottom of the leg keeps a decent opening (above 17 centimeters of opening).

This allows it to:

• refine your silhouette while avoiding the “frog legs” effect;
• highlight the buttocks just enough;
• suitable for a maximum of body types.

4. THE SLIM JEANS CUT

Sometimes badly connoted, the slim cut is the most exclusive contemporary cut. It is easy to wear when you are slender and thin, it fits particularly well into rock-inspired looks .

The same goes for its little sister, the skinny cut, which is even tighter. Beware of the frog leg effect which is never far away.

The term "semi-slim" is not systematically used, it is sometimes referred to as a straight cut or even "slim", depending on the brand. Each brand has its own definition, otherwise it wouldn't be funny!

In any case, do not hesitate to ask the brand about this so that they can guide you.

How to choose the right size of jeans?

The best jeans in the world bought too big will be, at best, average.

When buying, it should therefore be tight at the waist and thighs. If you close the last button of the jeans too easily when buying, it is still one size too big.

If you feel like the "waistband" of your jeans is loose at the back: don't worry. Depending on your arch, the curve of your buttocks needs to be shaped. This happens over time.

1. HOW THE JEANS FALL ON YOUR SHOES

It is rare to find jeans that fit your leg length perfectly. Some stores offer to do the alteration themselves, make sure the measurement is taken correctly.

Since denim isn't as flowy or dressy as flannel, we recommend leaving a good break, or two, in the shoe. There's nothing worse than a pair of jeans that are too short and ride up cheekily above your ankles when you sit down.

A floor-length (or 7/8th) hem is an option, but a bit dangerous. Roll the pants up above the ankle in summer if necessary.

Did you know?

Tailors often recommend washing cotton and linen garments once. These materials tend to shrink when washed, although thin or low-quality fabrics are more likely to do so. While it may be tempting to throw them on as soon as you buy them, your good jeans should be put in the washing machine before wearing them on your legs. They will repay you a hundredfold.

2. LEG OPENING

We finish with the leg opening, more or less large depending on your calf volume and your morphology. The idea is to choose a leg opening that accompanies your calf without molding it , or conversely, without gaping .

Typically, the standard leg opening for jeans is between 17 and 19 cm for classic body types (which corresponds to most semi-slim jeans on the market today).

What you need to remember

Don't try to find all the purist details: they are as important as you give them. However, be uncompromising on the quality of the manufacturing , the fabric and above all, choose the jeans in the right size .

And specifically, where to buy your jeans?

If you don't know where to start your quest, know that we have prepared a whole selection of brands by price range here.

Also know that we make our own jeans, with the denims and details that we would like to find elsewhere.

Now you have everything you need to choose the one that will suit you best. Trust yourself, listen to your heart and if in doubt, do not hesitate to ask us your questions in the comments at the bottom of this article!