As I begin writing these lines, we are in the middle of August. In the exact middle of it, to be precise.
I'm in Paris, and as many people know, August in Paris isn't always exciting. The streets are getting emptier, and so are the offices. When you text your friends for a drink, they reply, "I'll be back early September!" And the bakery down the street from you is closed for the next two weeks.
But this climate of flat calm has its good sides: it gives time to think. And for me, who joined the BonneGueule adventure during the summer of 2015 , these moments of summer introspection always bring me back to my professional career… and my clothing. The two are necessarily linked, as far as I am concerned.
So if I'm telling you all this, it's precisely because I've been thinking about it, and I thought I'd share something a little unusual with you.
Five years later, what are some things I won't do anymore when it comes to clothes?
A type of piece that I no longer like? A color that bores me? A purchasing mistake that I no longer want to make? A quest, an absurd clothing objective, doomed to failure, like a Don Quixote who fights against windmills, that I have abandoned?
There's a bit of all of that. And obviously, the list is far from exhaustive.
Moreover, as editors at BonneGueule, as people who speak out and represent our editorial line, we can be tempted to believe that we don't make mistakes . Or that we shouldn't make any. Personally, I even sometimes feel a certain pressure with regard to this expectation.
Well no, dear friends, rest assured: we are wrong, we change our minds , and we intend to continue to do so, since that is the only way we can nourish our thinking, our approach, and continue to share it with you. Besides, when I think about clothes, I look something like this:
1. Thinking that "it fits" when it's a little too tight
I really don't have the body shape to make that kind of compromise anymore.
Some of you already know this, but to explain what I'm talking about, let's say sports. has become a pillar of my daily life and my well-being. As a result, my body has changed: objectively, I now have the silhouette of someone "strong" , and so I can no longer afford to have clothes that are "one or two centimetres too small" in the shoulders, or too tight in the thigh and calves.
If I were slim and lanky, as I was in my early twenties , I could afford to be less careful on this point.
Because it's not just about changing the size of my tops, going from an S to a good M. It's the whole definition of what flatters my figure that has had to change.
As I explained in my Sapristi n°7 , which was dedicated to reconciling the practice of bodybuilding with style, clothes that are a little tight in places look best on those who have an interest in emphasizing these areas: typically, a young man who is slim and in shape, but certainly not muscular.
On the contrary, anyone who is will have an interest in not exaggerating what is already visible to everyone.
In the photo below, you can see me at my slimmest ever, after losing a lot of fat two years ago. And before I got my thighs toned again. These jeans are very skinny, but they fit me well in the photo. Why? Because my leg muscles are simply not prominent.
I probably could have seen it, or rather "admitted it to myself" earlier.
The problem is being able to realize that it is... I assure you, it is not easy: there is nothing objective in what we see of ourselves in a mirror.
Below is an outfit I made a year and a half ago, for example. I still like the idea: I had fun matching this play of contrasts between white and blue, the different materials, the smooth and the texture... But at that time, I was starting to feel cramped in our jogging pants, which I really liked.
Looking back today, I would be unhappy with some points, like the line of the pants on my thighs or calves, which was too prominent. Today I would have preferred just a little more width in order to create a more continuous line.
But above all, my current morphology no longer allows me this approximation, which would be much more visible.
So does this mean I'm giving up on fitted cuts? Definitely not!
I maintain that going from one extreme to another, just because you've reached the limits of the first, is the best way to have to change again a few years later.
Because you've probably noticed: cuts are getting wider and wider at the moment. At least among fashion lovers. I'm saying this because if you look out on the street, "everyman" is still often wearing slim and semi-slim.
I bet half of those who rush headlong towards ever-wider cuts will do the opposite in five or ten years. As for me, this change is not the result of a "fashion", but rather an updating of my own image. The trend, at most, will have served as a springboard for me to do so.
What is true, however, is that my vision of what constitutes a "well-fitting" garment on me has evolved, both because of my body shape, but also independently of it. Today, a "fitted" pair of pants on me would look more like this:
About BonneGueule clothing...
I'm making a small incision on this subject, because I know that when reading these lines, some will take the opportunity to talk about the cuts of BonneGueule clothes, which are tighter than what I can wear today, especially at the bottom. Whether on my own Instagram or during the live that I host alongside Benoît, this is a reaction that I see quite frequently.
And it's completely normal that this comes to mind: we are both a media and a brand, and one will always refer to the other in the reflections that you may have.
But we must distinguish between what suits me, Nicolò, a 1m72, 71kg athlete with very stocky legs, who is also a fashion enthusiast looking to express a fairly personal style, and what can satisfy the majority of you , our customers, who do not necessarily have the same physique or the same expectations.
Not only am I not at all responsible for our products on a day-to-day basis , but even if I were, it would be essential to distinguish between releasing clothes to dress myself , and releasing clothes to dress and satisfy our customers.
If clothes were cut for me, I assure you that fewer of you would buy them. 😉
Furthermore, I think that as a brand, it is good to exercise a certain amount of caution regarding these trend reversals, and to proceed with moderation, step by step.
You had a warm welcome to our bleach straight jeans. Is this a reason to only release that from now on? Nothing is less certain! But it is a positive signal to test more things like this 😉
How many of our customers actually want looser cuts? Is it a minority? And how looser? And among those who really want something looser, how many will change their minds in five years? It is easy, in such a situation, to give in to a number of confirmation biases: very engaged comments, debates between enthusiasts, forums...
Sometimes, we have our heads so focused, and we see so many very clear-cut opinions in one direction or another, that we can forget a fundamental fact: the majority is always silent, and often has a less extreme, less innovative opinion, more in search of a consensus.
Even a brand like Officine Générale, which was rather ahead of the trend of loose dress pants, continues to sell slim jeans in 2020. And if it sells them... It's because they still sell!
And then, trying to maintain consistency and consistency, or at least continuity in what we offer, is important. Things evolve, but imagine the disaster if, all of a sudden, every cut we released was a straight cut! So we test, and we move forward with you step by step. A pair of straight-cut jeans here, a little centimeter of leg opening there... We take it slowly, just to find the ideal balance.
In any case, rest assured that the question of cuts is at the heart of the debate in the team, whatever the release concerned, and that all your opinions are heard.
For me, this evolution was made through a rather abrupt change of point of view, because it was caused by several simultaneous factors.
First, my body shape has changed, as explained earlier.
Second, trends have started to change.
And thirdly... I'm getting older . Yes, you read me right, I dared to say that, from the height of my 26 years.
I don't know what happened. Yet there are no wrinkles, no signs of aging on my face. Yet I am "young"... But perhaps I have crossed an intangible border exit, which has taken me out of the category of those we call "the young", like a tribe?
Perhaps it’s because I chose to celebrate my birthday last year in the countryside with a handful of friends, good food and good red wine, rather than partying all night long. Or maybe it’s the features of my face that have hardened ever so slightly?
Benoît and I, in 2015. Do you think I've changed? Maybe it's my build, my skin, my dark circles that are less pronounced... In any case, I no longer aspire to the same style that I wanted back then.
In any case, something has changed in my own representation, and therefore necessarily in what I want to look like.
The image of the ephebe, thin, delicate, graceful, of a youthful ideal no longer appeals to me. When I see the smooth-skinned models of fashion brands, who will be 18 years old forever, I no longer feel targeted.
And I think that very fitted cuts have always had a certain connivance with the Epinal image of the handsome young man with a touch of femininity. .
I don't deny it, mind you. I still recognize its appeal but... It's simply not for me anymore.
2. Choosing the wrong shade of beige
I have to face the facts: with the possible exception of summers spent in the sun, I live my daily life with a complexion that is too pale and hair that is too dark to not look sick wearing light beige.
So obviously, layering always allows you to make some adjustments.
This is what I explained in an old episode of Sape M'en Cinq on colors : we can take a color that is not ideal for our complexion when worn alone and, by complementing it with the right color on another piece close to the face, we can restore the right level of contrast to wear it.
Which I do here with my From Future turtleneck and a denim jacket. Without it, however, my complexion looks sallow, dark circles stand out, my eyes look more tired... In short, nothing very happy!
And even when you're not wearing a jacket, there are still ways to cheat, after all: take a look at this photo with the vest instead. . Contrary to what one might think, the white of the vest totally saves the day because it gives a point of contrast to the beige which would otherwise blend too much with my complexion. Unlike in the photo with the denim jacket, the beige takes the role of the "dark" color, next to the white.
One of my "vest + turtleneck" combos that never ceased to amuse me in 2019, as much because I find it sincerely successful as because it shocked more than one person. :o)
But here's the thing: what happens when you only wear one layer of clothing? As much as this can work every time for a coat, since it is never worn alone, as much for a sweater, and a turtleneck one at that...
It's a matter of a little bit. All you need is a beige that's a little less yellow or that's a little more brown, and that's it! Just look at the photo below.
If I had to describe the shade of this beige, I would say it is "dark sand".
Jordan and I have a very similar skin tone and hair color. On our BonneGueule turtleneck , it doesn't have the problem I have with my From Future sweater , because it's a little more sand-colored. It's a less "yellow" beige. I think I'll have to find a replacement for it this winter... Even if it's not cashmere.
Dear readers, because I don't want you to get lost in the jungle of beige, camel, sand, fawn, and other shades of beige and light brown, remember this, so that you can choose a beige that suits your skin tone without having to resort to any tricks.
First, there is the "pigmentation" of this beige, which you should choose according to your skin tone first and foremost.
- The lighter your skin tone , the more I recommend you wear beiges that tend towards brown.
- If you have a darker skin tone , you can wear more yellow-toned beiges , even near your face.
And then there is the question of how "bright" this color is.
- If the contrast between your skin tone and your hair is STRONG , avoid beiges that are too light.
- If the contrast between your skin tone and hair is LOW , it will be the darker beiges that will suit you less well.
Example here: these shades would suit people with fair skin. But the top half of the image would suit blondes, while the second half would suit brunettes.
Another example: these shades of beige tending towards yellow would go very well with black or matte skin. Less, no doubt, with light skin.
Don't see this as an "absolute rule" , but if you're lost, I hope this will serve as a point of reference.
PS: be aware that a full beard (which I don't have) can help you wear tops in colors that aren't "ideal for your skin tone" without it being too noticeable.
3. Wanting to touch everything, and lacking patience
I talked about it during our last live: working at BonneGueule has many advantages, but it brings a disadvantage that we don't suspect: I have seen, for five years, so many magnificent pieces, so many beautiful things, diverse and varied styles, possible combinations, variations of collars, colors, designs, so many possibilities...
That I sometimes find myself caught up in a form of "feeling of urgency". It's the famous "Fear of missing out" as the English call it, the fear of missing something.
The result is that over these five years, I have spread myself too thinly in my purchases.
Looking back, I don't think it's possible to buy both fatigue pants and workwear jackets, while wanting more "fashionable" stuff like a Norwegian Raincoat, and AT THE SAME TIME have a great set of sartorial suits and dress shoes to go with them.
AND be a fan of denim, sneakers, beautiful bags, leather jackets... AND beautiful glasses.
I therefore commit to "choosing my battles" , stylistically speaking.
Furthermore, I have given in too much to the impulse of the "small pleasure purchase" , that of the 50 or 100 euro item. And in doing so, I have missed several times the opportunity to put enough aside to buy myself a nice jacket, a coat, a pair of dress shoes.
In short, I need "a plan". Go back to basics, and make a list of what's missing, a list of what we want, prioritize, and force ourselves to stick to it.
So, during the lockdown, when the pace slowed down a little and I found myself for two months in the middle of my Normandy countryside , I decided to take things in hand.
Following Benoît's advice, I created piggy banks on Lydia, into which I distribute all my budget for hobbies and "pleasures", via monthly transfers. Including clothes. And I make sure not to exceed it, or to "repay" myself for what I borrow elsewhere.
Well yes, finally here is the obvious fact that I had lost sight of: better management of your money means better management of your style . Since I tell you that I am starting to get old.
This piggy bank system not only made me realize that my clothing budget wasn't unlimited, but that it was tending to encroach on other important things, such as travel!
The funny thing is, when I started "really dressing," I had a plan . It was so detailed it was ridiculous: I had a specific number of chinos, shoes, and outerwear pieces in mind, in a specific color, with a specific pocket, etc.
Over time, I realized that you don't really build a style like that: having a "shopping list" in mind for the next five years is not just "a bit excessive", it also denies you the opportunity to enrich your vision.
It's believing that the person you are at the beginning of these five years will have made decisions that are considered intelligent by the person you will be at the end of them. Without wanting to spoil the surprise for you... This is rarely the case.
But in understanding this, I may have gone from one extreme to another. I told myself "come on, you know what a beautiful piece of clothing looks like, let your instinct guide you" , and I too often forgot to consider my wardrobe as a whole, an eco-system.
Four pairs of white sneakers (or similar), but only two pairs of dress shoes? And both, double monks? Anything, Nicolò, anything...
So I find myself with several nice suits, but just two pairs of formal shoes to wear them with.
Or with four pairs of white sneakers , but still not the pair of jodhpur boots that I have wanted for over three years now.
In short, the good "plan" is a dynamic structure : it is not fixed, it is updated according to our needs and desires. But it is definitely there!
Finally, I remembered that one had to learn to admire beauty, to appreciate it, to know it… without necessarily wanting to possess it. I arrived at a strange philosophical solution, a little counter-intuitive: I decided to be both extremely demanding about what I buy, and extremely indulgent and open about what I appreciate .
In short, it's decided, this year, I'm making a plan again.
4. Forgetting how hot it is, at 35° and above
I don't know why, but every year I suffer from a kind of recurring amnesia around autumn: I start to think that, from the moment you can walk around in a T-shirt and Bermuda shorts, say, around 27°, the appropriate clothes are all the same. Perhaps it's the effect of nostalgia for sunny days?
In any case, IT IS FALSE, dear friends. Or else, one must accept a level of thermal suffering that I refuse to undergo from now on.
At 35° and above, it is no longer enough to wear shorts and a T-shirt : the cuts must be a little looser, the fabrics finer and lighter, and even the materials must be optimized.
And for sure, every summer in the middle of a heatwave, I always say to myself the same thing: " But everything is too HOT in my wardrobe! "
Of course, we start buying what we'll wear in August as early as May. And for my part, I sometimes don't realize that all those pieces bought in spring won't be able to help me get through the summer.
Yes, even those Bermuda shorts that seemed cool when I tried them on at 27°, and whose stiff fabric I appreciated for the look and drape they gave them. Only, two months later I realize that I needed something even lighter.
Suede sneakers? Same here! They're no longer suitable, and you have to switch to canvas sneakers. Yes, even with invisible socks.
BonneGueule Bermuda shorts from last summer, NN07 shirt. Mr. Olive sandals that would make Jordan teeth grind , since I wear them in town sometimes.
Let's take the photo above as an example: beyond the fact that I allow myself to wear sandals, I am significantly less hot wearing this long-sleeved shirt and these Bermuda shorts than with certain cotton t-shirts that I wear all year round, like my Maison Cornichon.
It's all in the materials and volumes: Bermuda shorts are made from a fabric that was originally intended for shirts.
The shirt is made of linen, in an airy weave, and is not too tight. It changes everything!
By the way, in the photo below is the best, most beautiful, most comfortable, most AMAZING summer T-shirt I have ever owned. A Roberto Collina in cotton-linen, which had undergone a gradient dyeing process. It was light, easy to wear and at the same time had enough originality to be the key piece of my outfits. It was well cut, it had beautiful details on the collar and sleeves...
Well, I feel a pang in my heart every time I see this photo since this t-shirt was completely torn when Michel and I got a little agitated one evening during "Team Building" Last summer we "played fight" after leaving the bar.
So, if there is one lesson to be learned, ultimately, it is that you should not fight a 1m96 Franco-Polish guy while wearing your best t-shirt. .
