La Oropa, our new quilted jacket
It's time to introduce you to one of the most versatile outdoor jackets in our fall/winter collection! This notion of versatility is very important to me, because I like the idea of having a piece that can be used on multiple occasions and in different temperatures.
So more than ever, I wanted a very comfortable and pleasant piece to wear, thanks to:
- a slight stretch in the outer fabric
- a high-end insulator
- and a very soft lining
But before we get into the technical details, let's see why we chose this design…
A story that begins in 2020…
In the midst of the April 2020 lockdown, we are releasing a coach jacket revisited in our own way , with Japanese fabric and Climashield® insulation.
It was a great welcome from you, and I knew we would eventually rework this form again.
Indeed, the coach jacket is a piece that combines sport, leadership, urban cultures and even the FBI...
History of the coach jacket: how did it become a legend?
Yes, it is a garment that is very present in streetwear, where its simple and timeless design has stood the test of time without too many problems.
It all started in the 80s. In the US, coaches needed comfortable clothing that would withstand wind and a light shower.
It was also necessary for this garment to be practical, allowing one to easily put on or take off layers of clothing underneath depending on the time of training.
The coach being a person with leadership, who arouses respect and admiration, it is therefore logical that this garment began to build his aura.
Streetwear and coach jacket
Then in the 90s, American streetwear raided the sports wardrobe, notably appropriating the coach jacket.
Are these borrowings due to the desire to break codes of authority and to divert them? Or is it simply because many young Americans were fans of basketball and the whole clothing universe that goes with it?
It's up to you to choose!
The story of the coach jacket was launched: it is not uncommon to find legendary groups like Public Enemy or NWA posing in coach jackets.
NWA and the coach jacket, a long love story.
On the brand side, the coach jacket is becoming an essential piece of a streetwear wardrobe, like Homeboy (which claims to have been a pioneer in the distribution of the coach jacket since 1988), Stüssy or more recently, Supreme.
The coach jacket from Supreme, one of their basics that the brand offers in many versions.
It is such a functional and popular garment that it will even become the uniform of FBI agents!
But this time, we wanted to go further, to give a stronger visual, that's why we decided to quilt this jacket.
Why a quilted coach jacket?
It is literally a type of clothing that has one foot in:
- an outdoor universe, with a design highly appreciated by renowned heritage brands,
- and a more urban universe, because it is a piece that likes to be diverted and worn in more formal outfits.
The design is therefore very versatile, with a visual style from the quilting and the outer fabric.
So wear it with your most casual outfits as well as your dressy outfits! Look at all the possibilities offered by this kind of clothing:
Now, what fabric should you use to get an urban look on a sportswear garment? A wool fabric woven in Italy!
A wool fabric from the Italian Tollegno
© Tollegno 1900
The Tollegno factory.
This is the special feature of this jacket: the exterior is a wool fabric spun in Italy, at Tollegno.
It contains 2% elastane for added comfort, especially if you wear this jacket with a thick knit underneath.
I like this contrast between the elegance of the wool and the casualness of the quilting. And it is this same wool that gives it a less technical and more urban look.
For the more technical, it is a wool with a thickness of 203g/m2, a usual weight for 4-season suits.
Having wool as an outer fabric also presents qualities intrinsic to this fabulous natural material:
- a material that regulates your temperature well, perfect for a wide thermal amplitude,
- faster drying than cotton,
- and zero odor !
We chose two colors that you see in the photos:
- a grayish green, close to “foliage green”, a military color that I love,
- and a timeless elegant navy blue.
Choose according to your style!
A very soft lining in organic cotton
If you are a wearer of our Milo wool overshirt , this lining should ring a bell, since it is the same one!
It is therefore an organic cotton jersey, phenomenally soft.
The benefit? Having a very pleasant contact against the skin, if for example you wear this jacket over a short-sleeved piece.
This lining plays an important role, it greatly contributes to this comforting effect when you put on this jacket.
And the cut?
I've learned some lessons from the past, so it was designed to comfortably wear thick clothing underneath: chunky knits, blazers, overshirts, etc.
Which brings me to an important point in understanding this piece: it was designed as a very versatile outerwear piece, to be worn outside in a wide variety of temperatures, rather than as a mid-layer to be worn indoors (which would have been a bit “tight” for very cool temperatures).
And let’s talk about this insulation that will keep you from being cold…
Climashield® to keep you warm
And for the insulation, with the sporty DNA of this jacket, something along these lines was needed!
We therefore turned to Climashield®, this high-end insulation, made in the United States, used by the most prestigious outdoor brands.
The Climashield APEX also has one of the best weight/warmth ratios on the market, its unique warm feeling has comforted more than one hiker in cold conditions!
What is special about Climashield?
The first thing is that Climashield is the pioneer of “continuous filaments” .
In a very vintage video, the secret of which is held by manufacturers of technical materials, we can clearly see how the insulation works:
In fact, "classic" wadding is like pharmacy cotton, it disintegrates .
This is a problem for clothing because with repeated use, movement, washing or humidity, your insulation no longer looks like much at the end.
But this is not the case with Climashield!
© Climashield
They are long continuous filaments which makes them, in a way, a "tear-proof" insulator . It's like trying to break a string by pulling on each side, lengthwise. Impossible, I tell you!
And this gives us two very interesting advantages:
- Perfect hold over time : Climashield does not tear when stretched, it does not clump together and does not separate.
- Highly compressible : it will return to its original shape very quickly, which makes it very practical when you put this coach jacket in your suitcase for the weekend.
Technology that fights against fabric humidity
Finally, our Climashield® insulation features the so-called " Aquaban® " technology (yes, I know, they are very good at names): it keeps the heat even when wet, while allowing perspiration to evacuate quickly. On a piece intended for mid-season, this is a very useful feature.
© Climashield
You might think that I am a real perfectionist but, having already done tests with lower quality insulation, I guarantee you that it is much less pleasant : the feeling of dampness can set in quickly.
Another important thing to know: for the Climashield to work well, it needs to have some loft, it must not be excessively pressed against your body, because the insulation must not be crushed.
It just has to sit on your chest when closed, and that's it.
So it's not a piece to choose too tight. I simply advise you to choose your usual size .
We have made sure that even with a simple T-shirt, you are prepared for large temperature variations.
In terms of thickness, we are on Climashield® 100g. This is a thickness that is perfectly suited to fall/winter/spring outerwear, with a preference for transition periods between two seasons.
Don't hesitate to wear this piece with a simple t-shirt, you would be surprised to see all the possibilities it offers.
Four pockets for your everyday life
There are two exterior pockets for your hands, but also two large interior pockets to carry your daily reading with you:
And what about maintenance?
It is a machine washable wool, so you can wash it on a delicate cycle, cold in the machine!
Oropa coach jacket ID card
Fabrics:
- 98% wool from Tollegno (Italy)
- 2% elastane
Weight: 203 gr/m²
Origin of wool: Australia and New Zealand
Weaving and dyeing: Italy (Tollegno)
Spinning: Poland
Made in Portugal at Supercorte, our usual shirt workshop. The quilting is done in a partner workshop in Portugal.
Price: 290€
Size guide: take your usual size at BonneGueule . To access our size guide, click here .
Availability: available now on our e-shop here and in our stores .