This Saturday, October 17, we offer you:
- A pair of pleated chinos in cavalry twill. A sturdy fabric with a vintage charm.
- Versatile workwear boots . To slip into all styles
- Two wool sweaters with a brushed effect. In the direction of the hair
- Four speckled Donegal knit hats . A final touch of texture for your outfits.
- A jacket in prestigious deer leather . A story of exceptional know-how
Every day, a new piece will be revealed to you. An advent calendar, ahead of time.
We're sending in the cavalry today, with our first pleated chinos.
“I get up at 6:30.
This morning I have an appointment with an old lady. I walk slowly outside. I have to say that I am lugging around a huge suitcase and four bags of hanging clothes. "Work in fashion", they used to say, the glam, the glitter, you will have everything.
I arrive by taxi in front of a parking lot. The sky is about to fall on me. So I flee underground with all my gear. Suddenly I see her. The old lady is there. Inside a luminous cavity. Magnificent. She is sparkling. Her color is an elegant burgundy, her four wheels have a very old-fashioned white stripe and what shapes! It drives me crazy that we no longer find these kinds of cars on the street and that they are now hiding in the belly of parking lots. I dry a tear.
Driving in Paris, I tame the beast. The glances of passers-by ricochet against the 204 from 1971. I act like a confident guy. The truth is that I concentrate on changing gears properly. People say nice things to me when I stop at a red light. I act as if it were mine. Without scruples."
" With Francesc our artistic director and Karine, our hairdresser/makeup artist, we leave Paris. On the motorway at 80 km/h. The other drivers don't hold it against me, the car is beautiful. Which shows that beauty can soften even the most scalded spirits. The shooting takes place around BĂ©themont-la-ForĂŞt, in the Val-d'Oise."
" For this shoot, I'm the one who's going to play the model. Francesc thinks I have a retro look with my moustache and my top-of-the-class side. It fits the atmosphere. I'm the guy who goes for a trip to the countryside in his classic car. Give me 10 more years and I'll actually be that guy. The idea is also to go and find the colours of autumn, bathe in the real, the authentic, stand in front of the majestic trees, run in the fields, breathe the air.
Our clothes of the month are of this ilk. There is the mustard of the sweater that echoes the yellow of the autumn leaves. There is the deer leather that stands out nicely against the green. There are the beiges that recall the fields and the paths."
"The day goes like this: we find a place we like, I change into the middle of nature, we shoot, we pack up, we leave, we find another place and so on. It rains, we take the opportunity to go eat. And we get back to work.
One day, 12 outfits and the feeling of having accomplished something worthwhile. But you are our only judges.
In the evening, I return the car to its owner, reluctantly. When I get home, I aim for the bed, willingly. When my body touches the mattress, I am asleep."
- Jordan, editor, stylist, model, garment weaver, salesperson, after-sales service manager, accountant, cook and office chair assembler at BonneGueule
Our pleated chinos
Presented at length and in breadth
Cavalry Twill Robust
For the vintage touch
It all starts with a desire.
The desire to tackle a material that is still unexplored in our country: cavalry twill .
It is a fabric originally used by British cavalry officers for its density which makes it particularly resistant to tension and abrasion.
It is recognizable by its famous double diagonals which give it this attractive relief:
We love this aesthetic with its military heritage and we find that its vintage side gives off something. So we set out to conquer our cavalry twill.
"Cavalry twill, I want you for BonneGueule Army". BonneGueule hat, shirt and cardigan . Brut Clothing vintage jacket and Asahi sneakers.
We first tried wool, but we found that the result was too soft and lacked hold. For the moment, we are therefore leaning towards cotton.
We then take a look at what our Japanese suppliers offer. More expensive in terms of know-how, their fabrics usually stand out from European materials with beautiful textures. But this time, we feel that they don't do it enough to justify the price difference. We also want to stay in the price range of our chinos, which you appreciate for their accessibility.
We therefore turn to the origins of the fabric: England, known for its mastery of cavalry twill.
Our elected official is called Brisbane Moss.
Brisbane Moss, a century-old specialist
Cavalry twill is his cup of tea.
Yorkshire, England. Mid 19th century.
The Moss brothers, weavers and processors of cotton velvet and moleskins, are seeing some upheaval in their neighborhood.
A competitor, the English Velvet Cord Dyeing Company, had just arrived and was buying up several dyeing companies. Fears of a monopoly were growing, so the Moss brothers joined forces with several manufacturers to form the English Fustian Manufacturing Company Ltd. in 1901.
EFMC is expanding and vertically integrating spinning, weaving and garment assembly companies.
In the early 1980s, demand for velvet and moleskin was low and international competition was fierce. Part of the group was forced to close its doors. The family firms Brisbane Moss and Moss Brothers Dyers then joined forces with the weaver M Chapmans & Sons to found the company we know today.
Unity is strength again and the alliance works. She is building an international reputation. In 2004, she received the Queens Award for Export in the presence of Queen Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace. Hats off.
This story reminds us that the textile industry is cruel and that it is not easy to evolve in it. Especially over the last century. It is also interesting to see how these companies have been able to join forces to face it and become a reference today. Particularly on traditional and robust cotton fabrics, the house's specialty since its origins: velvet, moleskin... and cavalry twill!
Brisbane Moss is therefore a safe bet in this area. With 100 years of experience, the company is fully aware of all the technical specifications that make a good cavalry twill and the recipe for ours has not changed for several decades.
To remain competitive, it shares its valuable specifications with several partners around the world where it has its fabrics manufactured. To make our cavalry twill, Brisbane Moss works with a manufacturer in Turkey that it selected for its rigor several years ago.
At Brisbane Moss, we therefore find a 100% cotton twill which transcribes well the charm of this material.
It's simple, authentic and of course solid. The proof? We have it, with a bonus technique course.
To test the abrasion resistance of a fabric, manufacturers use the Martindale method: on a machine, an abrasive disc rotates rapidly on itself to subject the sample to significant friction.
The result of this test is simply the number of turns after which the first thread tore.
Our cavalry twill achieved a result of about 20,000 rounds.
As an anecdote, in the furniture industry, which commonly takes this test as a reference, we are beginning to enter the category of "very intensive use fabrics" for public places or communities.
But since we're not talking about a cavalry twill sofa, here's a closer comparison: our cotton/elastane chinos from Velcorex average 10,000 revolutions on the Martingale test.
Jordan can ride his 53 horses as much as he wants.
So much for robustness. Now, let's talk about flexibility: to soften the hand and ensure comfort when wearing, we wash everything.
So he can also ride on foot as much as he wants.
Regarding the thickness, we plead guilty because a tradition has been hindered: initially, the Calvary twill is very thick. For ours, we prefer an average weight of 314 grams per square meter. But we have a motive, or rather two: to be able to wear it in mid-season as well as in winter and - once again - to guarantee its comfort.
And then we make up for it with its color: a beige that echoes its military origins, as if we had found it in a surplus.
Subtly straight cut
Just the right amount
We combined this desire to explore cavalry twill with yours: that of seeing chinos with a straighter cut.
It is now done but with measure. A slightly straight leg and tightened at the bottom.
It injects a dose of relaxation while shaping your silhouette and its different volume allows you to vary the pleasures.
BonneGueule overshirt, shirt and t-shirt . New BonneGueule beanie available Saturday, October 17. Converse sneakers.
Front clips
For advanced styling
To take these chinos further, we have embellished them with two pleats at the front.
It's an extra touch of elegance taken from the tailoring art that we like to see on casual pants and which gives more to see.
Finely crafted finishes
Quality is in the details
As always, our specialist workshop in Romania has not done things by halves:
- A capuchin button placket. Elegant and effective for good support.
- Horn buttons with Ascolite fixation. A twisting technique involving elastic wire for added strength
- Piped pockets at the back. Simple and clean.
- Our eternal zip hidden in a front pocket. Goodbye to the stress of lost keys
- A V of ease, for ease. Especially after a calzone
- A trimmed interior . We are talking about going all the way
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Size |
b. Half thigh |
c. Leg length under belt |
d. Leg opening |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 42 | 36 | 29.1 | 102 | 16.3 |
| 44 | 38 | 30.3 | 102 | 16.8 |
| 46 | 40 | 31.5 | 103 | 17.3 |
| 48 | 42 | 32.7 | 103 | 17.8 |
| 50 | 44 | 33.9 | 104 | 18.3 |
| 52 | 46 | 35.1 | 104 | 18.8 |
| 54 | 48 | 36.3 | 105 | 19.3 |
To be continued
In the next episode...
Tomorrow, Benoît will present our new boots to you and he has lots of things to tell you.
In the meantime, please let us know what you think of our chino and remember that there is no such thing as a stupid question. As dear Albert said.
It's happening below, in the comments area.
How to get our new products?
Visit our e-shop and our boutiques in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux .
