In November 2017, we decided to release a special rain piece:
- a wool fabric exterior
- with a high-tech breathable and waterproof membrane from the Swiss Schoeller
- all with an urban, refined and modern design
You are very sensitive to this piece which is so versatile and so technical at the same time!
Very quickly, this raincoat was a success, with some rave reviews:
Having worn it intensively, Geoffrey wanted to share his feedback on this piece:
I wore this raincoat for about two years, through autumn gusts, slight winter chills, and heavy spring downpours. Is it windproof? Is it perfectly waterproof? Does it still breathe well? And what if it could also keep you a little warm? Yes, all of that at the same time. It is a truly multi-use outerwear: the only two things it can't do are really polar cold (-5°C and below), and delicious cappuccinos.
But what surprises me the most is not its technical performance (and yet, there are things to tell), but rather its style.
Because from the outside, you don't notice anything. The technicality is totally hidden.
Besides, I would have really liked to see the reverse side of this incredible material appear somewhere inside the raincoat: like a vinyl film perforated with thousands of tiny holes, smaller than a micrometer. Because the contrast between this exterior with a woolen cloth look and this membrane of the future inside is amazing.
In the end, it's a piece that I really got attached to. And if I had to choose ten of our clothes to populate the BonneGueule pantheon, it would most certainly have its place there!
Geoffrey will be even better prepared to face the next showers! Add to that our Ventile cap which provides extra protection, and you will never have to fear the rain again.
Take this piece even further
Don't rest on your laurels!
So we wanted to update it, modifying what could be improved.
And above all, there was one big thing missing from this raincoat to make it THE ultimate rain piece: the famous welded seams (we'll come back to that).
(and an even better hood)
The specifications for this "V2" piece have not changed, it is still about having a beautiful, functional, urban rain garment, and with an emphasis on two particular points:
- a comfortable fit at the shoulders, even when wearing a blazer . This can sometimes be tricky with a classic coat with well-defined shoulders...
- and a material that is breathable enough - so you don't die of heat as soon as you get on public transport - but which must still protect you from the elements .
New: we have released it in two colors, charcoal gray and navy blue.
Let's see how we got to this result...
The material: c_change™ merino from Schoeller
The alliance of merino wool with a high-tech membrane
It is THIS fabric that made this piece a success, because it perfectly symbolizes what we love: a formidable hidden technicality, and a unique exterior appearance thanks to the wool.
We are therefore dealing with a laminated material, that is to say that it is composed of two layers glued together by passing them through large cylinders:
- on the outside : merino wool mixed with 20% polyester to provide robustness, chosen for its insulating qualities, and to ensure consistency with the c_change™ laminated membrane.
- Inside : the c_change™ membrane, a new generation polymer that lets water vapor pass through at the microscopic scale, but stops liquids.
Which ultimately gives a blend of 71% merino wool, 18% polyester, 11% polyurethane .
A rare composition for a very natural result
When I discovered this material, the presence of wool intrigued me, because it is a rare material in technical fabrics.
It has two advantages here:
- provide the piece with all the properties of merino wool : thermal insulation, hydrophobic material, does not absorb odors, does not crease...
- and above all, give a natural finish to the material!
A wool that hides its game well
Thanks to the texture of the wool, this raincoat has an elegant and timeless look . It also brings originality, since merino is rarely — if ever — used for rainwear.
And the color is full of nuances. We have a nice mottled effect that gives relief to the piece:
Anthracite version…
Navy blue version…
Very clearly, it is visually impossible to know that it is a technical material !
All you see is a beautiful woolen cloth.
“Isn’t the material too thick for a raincoat?”
No, don't worry.
Although the appearance gives the impression that it is a classic wool coat cloth, it is quite different.
In terms of thickness, it feels much closer to the feel of our softshell or any other raincoat than a typical coat. You should store this piece alongside a trench or a mac, not a wool coat.
For your information, the material has a weight of 280g/m² and a fluid drape.
Finally, the last detail that warms the heart: Schoeller certifies that the merino wool used comes from a farm that does not practice mulesing. .
Schoeller's c_change membrane
Where the magic happens
A material inspired by nature
As with the V1, I am very happy to be able to use the c_change™ membrane, which is one of the "star" products from Schoeller, this Swiss supplier specializing in high-end, high-performance technical fabrics.
Its operation is rather atypical...
Most other membranes rely on a principle of pores: large enough to let sweat escape but small enough to prevent a drop of rain from entering.
But the c_change™ draws its inspiration from a... pine cone.
Just like it, depending on the temperature, the pores of the c_change™ expand or contract .
Watch this video which explains how it works:
An active membrane that adapts to temperature and humidity
Schoeller points out that the membrane reacts not only to temperature, but also to body moisture . How? Trade secret...
In fact, when the wearer's body heats up, the membrane opens so that heat and sweat can escape more easily.
And when the temperature drops, the pores shrink , preventing heat loss.
This results in a membrane that truly adapts to climatic conditions and the activity of its wearer.
Schoeller's pictograms on the properties of c_change.
But as usual with manufacturers of technical materials, their descriptions give the impression of being faced with the eighth wonder. textile of the world.
So I had to make up my own mind! What does it really look like?
My opinion on technical wool with c_change™ membrane
Tested the Benoit way
A material that “keeps its promises”
Before releasing V1, I started my investigation by looking for opinions on this subject.
It's definitely not as popular as Gore-Tex™ due to its price, but the feedback is very enthusiastic :
The return of Road.cc (the BonneGueule of cycling) who tests a Mission Workshop jacket in c_change :
[The c_change™] looks impressive and delivers on its promises. I would even go further and say it is truly incredible. I am the type to sweat a lot when I give it my all on a bike.
The return of "Feed the habit", a site dealing with the outdoors, which tests a hiking jacket from the Westcomb brand :
Compared to competing materials (eVent, Polartec NeoShell, Gore-Tex Active), Schoeller c_change wool works like a sieve. Needless to say, it breathes incredibly well.
This week I had to shovel snow, and I had further proof of its breathability. No sweat condensation inside, except on the taped seams.
In terms of rain resistance, all the tests I carried out in wet weather (heavy rain, snow) proved very pleasant total waterproofing.
Rather reassuring... As an indication, here are some brands using Schoeller c_change™: Mission Workshop , KJUS and Perfect Moment .
That's what they say about c_change™. Then, still before the marketing of V1, I moved on to testing prototypes...
The Urban Jungle Test
A windproof piece
We'll start with a simple feature to test: the ability to protect from wind.
I had a nice glimpse of it one winter Sunday, when I was leaving the Montparnasse train station. It was about 10°C and, as usual in this part of Paris, it was very windy. I was only wearing a denim shirt under my raincoat...
Well, the combination of merino and membrane was a perfect wind barrier. I didn't even need to wear a jersey underneath that day.
Thanks to the merino coupled with the c_change™ membrane, you will be effectively protected from the wind. And Geoffrey wouldn't say otherwise! BonneGueule hat, pants, hoodie and sneakers.
A raincoat that keeps you warm
I also wore the raincoat with a blazer, when it was 5°C. I was neither too hot nor too cold.
The "thermal versatility" of this piece surprises me a lot. I didn't think I could wear it in such low temperatures. Given its lightness, I think I'll be as comfortable in it as in spring!
Welded seams: the big new feature for total waterproofing
From enemy, rain becomes your friend
V1 didn't have welded seams, we were finally able to fix this lack!
As a reminder, welded seams play a crucial role: they allow the seams to be "sealed" and prevent water from entering through the holes left by the needles when the piece is assembled.
In fact, it looks like an adhesive strip that is applied to each seam, inside the garment. They are hidden by the lining, and are not visible.
It may not seem like much to do, but it is actually a long and technical operation, which requires specialized machines (and therefore an investment), and very experienced workers. And so inevitably, it has a price.
This is what a welded seam looks like, under the lining. Thanks to it, water cannot seep in.
It is therefore with great pride that I can now say: this raincoat is therefore completely waterproof and it therefore symbolises our vision of the ultimate rain piece.
A removable and discreet hood
A raincoat without a hood is not a raincoat.
Macs and other trench coats have always been a strange paradox for me: why refer to these pieces as rainwear... when they don't protect the head?
I understand of course that a garment without a hood is more elegant (we lose the "sportswear" connotation), but still...
So I wanted to bring together the best of both worlds.
So there is a hood, but it can be easily removed with a zip.
And when the raincoat is without a hood, the zip is completely invisible, hidden by the collar.
Once the hood is removed, and the collar is placed normally, you have a classic raincoat! Shirt , t-shirt , jeans and BonneGueule sneakers .
This is the zip that holds your hood.
To solve the thorny question "Do I have to hold my hood in my hand all day when I take it off?" , a large interior pocket has been placed at the bottom of the raincoat. It allows you to store the folded hood there.
The inside of the garment, with the two zipped pockets and the large “envelope” format pocket.
A cut adapted to tailored pieces
Wearing a blazer with a raincoat should always be comfortable
So I really thought of a piece so that you could wear a layer underneath. .
But that doesn't mean the fit is loose, far from it! Let's just say we didn't embark on a never-ending race to cinch it.
In terms of length, it reaches mid-thigh: perfect for your casual outfits , with sneakers for example. .
On the finishing side?
Update in progress
I've already told you about the hood and the pocket to store it. Here's what you need to know:
A brand new wrist tightening system
No pressure or Velcro here, but a completely new tightening system that has several advantages:
- unlike velcro, it does not catch on your other clothes
- Unlike snap buttons, it allows for much more precise adjustment
- It is a system that is not affected by rain or snow (since it is used on ski clothing)
This system allows you to finely adjust the tightness of the wrist, without getting waterlogged when it rains.
Underarm ventilation eyelets
In the city, it is common to alternate between the outside and the inside of a store where it is warmer. To manage these changes in heat, ventilation eyelets have been placed under the arms to improve the ventilation of the room.
Two interior zipped pockets
No way you'll lose your personal belongings. Each pocket is well secured.
Your belongings won't be lost, we promise.
A double YKK zip at the front
On long pieces, I find the double slider essential. Especially when you are sitting or if, like me, you have wide hips compared to your waist. In this case, I am very happy to be able to add ease by opening the bottom zip .
A double zip is more comfortable on a long piece: it makes it easier to close and allows you to play on ease.
How to wear this raincoat?
Elegant or casual: you choose
With a wool overshirt
Our famous wool overshirt is a perfect complement, and our grey jogpants bridge the gap between the light colour of the overshirt and the dark colour of the raincoat.
BonneGueule hat , overshirt , long-sleeved t-shirt and pants .
With jogging pants and a hoodie
Since it's a raincoat with a sleek design, it's easy to take it to multiple settings. Here, the blue wool jogpants echo both the material of the raincoat and the casual side of the hoodie, also made of wool.
And because wool is practical and beautiful, Geoffrey wears our long-sleeved merino wool t-shirt, the perfect winter companion!
With camel chinos
With a color like navy, you can easily match it with camel/cream/terracotta tones. The scarf plays an important role here, with a strong touch of color, and of the same intensity as the raincoat.
With a blazer
We could have given you a classic outfit in a suit, but we wanted to relax the gray blazer with a more casual shirt, white pants (an underrated piece in winter) and sneakers.
Blazer , shirt , sneakers , Shirt , t-shirt , jeans and sneakers BonneGueule. and pants BonneGueule.
With a denim shirt
When you have a raincoat against the rain, why not wear water-resistant sneakers? This is done with our Ventile sneakers. Sneakers that go very well with the color of the jeans. The denim shirt bridges the gap between the color of the raincoat and the jeans.
About the price of this piece
It is difficult to compare prices as it is a unique piece. Generally speaking, rainwear, with welded seams, and an urban design under €400 are extremely rare.
And at that price, you have a dull outer material, with a "plastic" look. As soon as you want a nice material, with a technical membrane, AND an urban design AND welded seams, the prices explode: it is not uncommon to have rainwear for more than €700, or even much more, beyond €1000.
Even though this raincoat is now part of this quality range, it will be much more accessible: it will be barely above €400 for a piece that would cost €700 - €800 from a "normal" brand.
How to get our new raincoat?
Visit our e-shop and our boutiques in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux .
