Wear it well: the ultimate tuxedo guide

The tuxedo is a dream. Brought back into the limelight in recent years by films like the latest James Bond films with Daniel Craig or The Great Gatsby, chances are you've already wanted to wear one if you appreciate masculine elegance.

But how to wear it well? And on what occasions? The tuxedo is a very codified outfit and a style mistake can easily happen when wearing it.

This little guide is here to help you see more clearly what a tuxedo really is and the pieces that make it up.

I'll also give you my opinion on how much leeway you have to wear a tuxedo if you don't have absolutely everything you need.

Of course, this article is also an opportunity to show you lots of beautiful silhouettes in tuxedos. Because there's no denying it, a beautiful tuxedo is impressive. 🤵‍♂️

When to wear a tuxedo?

The tuxedo is an evening wear. Wearing a tuxedo during the day is traditionally considered a mistake.

To be more specific, it can be considered acceptable to wear a tuxedo if you are starting an event in the second part of the afternoon (some say from 6 p.m.) that will continue into the evening.

So, a tuxedo can be worn on different occasions: galas, cocktails, outings to the Opera, ceremonies and parties , among others.

It is particularly suitable to wear if you receive an invitation to a “black tie” event (which is a synonym for tuxedo, in reality).

Analysis of all the elements of a tuxedo

There are several types of very formal, ceremonial attire that can fall under the term “tuxedo.”

We will talk here about its most common form, contemporary and suitable for big events (evening, gala, cocktails, etc.): the black tie.

This name, which literally translates to “black tie,” refers to the color of the bow tie (and not the tie), which is therefore black.

Thus, we will not discuss the specific cases of the “white tie” (in which we find a white bow tie and a tailcoat) or the wearing of a morning coat, which are very marginal and concern very few people.

Let’s get to the heart of the matter. Here are the elements that make up a “black tie” tuxedo:

A matching jacket and pants set

The basis of a tuxedo is the jacket and pants.

Of course, there are elements that distinguish them from a classic suit. These are the elements that make the tuxedo and give it its aura.

The jacket is straight, black in color, made of wool and has the following unique details:

The pants are made of the same fabric as the jacket and have these features:

Other types of tuxedo jacket

I have presented above the jacket and pants in their most classic version.

But there are other types of tuxedo jackets that contrast with the pants in shape and/or material and/or color.

Shape

The jacket can be double-breasted instead of single-breasted.

It can also have a shawl collar instead of a pointed collar.

Matter

If the jacket is not made of wool, it can be made of cotton velvet .

A velvet jacket with a shawl collar is called a smoking jacket.

Color

Traditional colors that vary from black are cream, green, midnight blue, burgundy or mustard.

If we mix these three criteria, here are two examples of jackets that we can have:

A tuxedo shirt

The tuxedo shirt is also well codified. It is white, made of cotton poplin and has the following unique details :

At the collar level , it can be French (classic) as in the photo above or it can also be broken, like here:

Cufflinks

Your tuxedo shirt has French cuffs (it's a turned-up cuff with two layers of fabric. It's quite stiff, thick, and elegant too). So you need to put some nice cufflinks on them to close them.

A bow tie

It's quite easy: you need a plain, black silk bow tie.

Ideally, it is to be tied yourself. Why? Because this way, it has a certain volume that makes it majestic. It is not all flat and fixed like a pre-made knot.

Also, this knot changes slightly every time you tie it, it is imperfect and that gives it a lot of charm. Would you wear a tie with a knot already tied?

You will find many tutorials to learn how to tie your bow tie by yourself. Hang in there, the first time, it's complex, we don't understand the gesture. But it's worth it. Sometimes you have to suffer to be stylish.

And if you only have a pre-tied bow tie, that's okay too. But consider getting into tying your own bow tie when you can.

An element to mark the waist: pleated vest or belt

This piece is underrated and yet it is quite important.

The tuxedo is traditionally worn with:

• Either a waistcoat , straight or double-breasted, with a very low lapel: thus, it is not or barely visible when the jacket is closed
• Either with a pleated silk belt : the precise Anglo-Saxon term is “cummerbund”

The purpose of this piece is to hide the little bit of shirt that can be seen between the button of your jacket when it is closed and the waistband of your pants.

So, with the jacket closed, your silhouette is visually broken down into two blocks: what's above the button is your white shirt, and what's below is your black pants.

Wearing a pleated waistcoat or belt is an elegant detail, appreciated by purists and which demonstrates your knowledge of the codes of the tuxedo.

Not having this element is acceptable if your pants have a high waist that reaches the button of your jacket, and which therefore naturally hides the “little bit of shirt sticking out” when your jacket is closed.

Black shoes (but not just any)

Here are the shoes traditionally accepted in a tuxedo:

• Black patent (shiny) Richelieu shoes

• Opera pumps , so slippers in patent leather or velvet, decorated with a small bow on the top. It's a kind of moccasin, but more distinguished!

Black dress socks

Choose elegant black socks that reach up to the knee (called knee-highs), made of cotton or wool.

A white suit pocket

The cover is white, ideally silk. Not much to add here.

How to wear a tuxedo if you don't have everything you need

For financial or wardrobe building reasons, you are considering purchasing a tuxedo, but not absolutely all of its elements.

Can you still wear it even if you don't have everything? Could you replace what's missing with more conventional pieces, which you already have in your wardrobe?

So let's talk about the leeway you have when it comes to wearing a tuxedo. The idea here is to see how far you can deviate from the classic, institutional tuxedo, while still maintaining your good taste and refinement.

After the previous very factual part, we arrive here at a more subjective part, with a personal opinion.

The jacket

Stick to a tuxedo jacket , which respects the codes. The jacket is truly a centerpiece and distinctive piece on a tuxedo. It is difficult to do without it.

The pants

It is important that the pants remain dark, black or dark blue.

That being said, I think it's acceptable to choose it without the silk braid on the side. You lose a bit of the charm of the "real" tuxedo pants, but from a distance, it will look good.

The shirt

I really like the tuxedo shirt with its bib on the chest and its metal buttons. I find that it contributes a lot to the elegance and spirit on a “black tie”.

But if you don't have one, then it seems acceptable to me to go for a simple, classic, formal white shirt in cotton poplin.

Cufflinks

Following on from the previous idea, if you have a classic formal shirt, it doesn't necessarily have French cuffs and so you don't necessarily put cufflinks on it. That's ok!

The bow tie

Stick to a black silk bow tie. It's an accessory that doesn't necessarily cost a lot (€29 at Suitsupply at the time of writing) and which is characteristic of the tuxedo.

Avoid fancy bow ties : too colorful or wooden for example, which do not have the sober and distinguished elegance required in the ensemble that interests us.

The element to mark the waist: vest or cummerbund

This piece has its charm but it doesn't seem absolutely essential to me. A tuxedo without a waistcoat or belt can still look great.

The shoes

If you already have black shoes, you can use them for a tuxedo outfit.

More specifically, I'm talking about black Oxfords or loafers in smooth leather. A buckled shoe, for example, doesn't seem to me to have its place.

If you can, give them a nice glaze to give them a little shine and make them look more like patent leather shoes.

Mistakes to avoid

If we talked above about a slightly tinkered but decent tuxedo, here is a small list (non-exhaustive) of mistakes to avoid if you want to wear a tuxedo.

Neglecting the cut

We haven't talked about this yet, but of course, a great tuxedo is one that's as well cut as possible.

In this case, these are the same codes as on a costume:

• The shoulder should be well defined, the jacket should be slightly fitted and you should see a small centimeter of the shirt sticking out at the bottom of the sleeves.
• The pants can be a little more fitted or loose depending on your style, but they should not be too slim or tight. In terms of length, they should fall just right, right on the shoe.

A jacket that is too big or too small, pants that are too long or too tight, and your entire silhouette will suffer. A poorly cut tuxedo risks giving a sloppy look, which is the exact opposite of what you want with such an outfit.

The tuxedo is all the details mentioned above, but it's also the cut, the cut, the cut!

Black suit instead of tuxedo

You don't replace the tuxedo jacket and pants with a simple black suit.

The classic black blazer lacks the distinctive and majestic elements of the tuxedo jacket and is no substitute for it.

Tie instead of bow tie

I've seen stars walk down the red carpet in tuxedos and ties. I always found it strange.

The tie is a beautiful accessory but I find it has no place on a tuxedo. Visually, it is very different from a bow tie. It disturbs me.

Shoes in poor condition

Shoes are so important.

Even more so for formal or ceremonial outfits. Poor quality shoes, in poor condition, poorly maintained, can really ruin an outfit in general and even more so a tuxedo, which is an outfit that must be dressed to the nines.

Take care of your shoes, they will thank you. :)

Practical case: my own tuxedo

Turns out I own a tuxedo! Built piece by piece over quite a few years as I wrote about here .

It is now almost complete and we took the opportunity to shoot it.

I have:

• A mustard smoking jacket with a shawl collar in velvet
• A tuxedo shirt
• A black bow tie, to tie
• Black tuxedo pants, with silk braid on the side
• A silk belt that accentuates the waist
• Black loafers
• A white pouch

What I can improve:

• I don't have any cufflinks worthy of the name. The ones I have are white plastic. I'm waiting for a good opportunity to get some at a good price, why not vintage ones?
• My loafers are fine but are a little too casual . I would need a more refined pair of shoes, Belgian loafers or slippers typically

We want more looks!

Heard 5/5.

Make way for inspiration with this small selection. Watch out for your eyes:

Follow Ethan on Instagram if you don't already. His silhouettes are awesome.

Here he is wearing a fairly classic tuxedo. Note: a black double-breasted jacket, fairly loose trousers, opera pumps and, it looks like, red socks.

Nothing to complain about, it's perfect.

More daring with Romain d'Ardentes Clipei: a cream double-breasted jacket with a shawl collar. Note that the jacket is cream and not white, so that it contrasts sufficiently with the shirt.

Otherwise, it's also a perfectly executed classic.

Dear Richard Biedul, always a 10/10 on the elegance scale.

He is wearing a very classic tuxedo: black, with a straight jacket with peaked lapels. We can also see in this visual the neckline of his vest, which goes down quite low. Note: the shirt has black metal buttons, but no bib.

Philip Conradsson, with a burgundy double-breasted jacket, in velvet, with a pointed collar. More daring. The shirt has neither a bib nor metal buttons but a hidden placket (the placket is covered with a layer of fabric, so the buttons are not visible at all). An interesting choice for a very sober shirt.

A black tuxedo and a white shirt, which stand out a little in the details.

The jacket does not have the satin lapels, just the ends, it seems. Also, this jacket has flap pockets, which is not traditionally seen on tuxedo jackets.

A slightly more original take on the tuxedo jacket, which works because the whole thing is perfectly cut.

Also follow @jkf_man on Insta! There's always a lot of flair in his outfits.

Here, we see a revisited tuxedo with a tartan jacket, a thin scarf (silk?) and velvet slippers (perhaps Matthew Cookson ones), which almost look like slippers, for an indoor wear atmosphere.

A well-measured and very clever way of diverting the classicism of the tuxedo.

Finally, a bold proposal that I saw at Suitsupply, with a cream jacket with a shawl collar, black pants, black shoes... and an ecru turtleneck!

No shirt or bow tie but a knit for the top. This outfit works well I think, the light turtleneck being a fairly elegant piece, enough to fit into the ensemble;

Brands to find a tuxedo

Here is a small list of brands where you can find everything you need for your tuxedo:

Jacket, pants and shirt

• Suitsuply
• Fursac
• Favourbrook
• Wicket
• Big the sea
• Silbon
• Howard's (for shirts)
• The Nines (for shirt)
• Second-hand and vintage: online, you can look at Vulpilist for example. It is a site specializing in second-hand high-end tailored clothing, you can find tuxedos there

Shoes

• Suitsupply
• Morjas
• Baudoin&Lange
• Myrqvist
• Carmina
• Yanko

Bow tie

• Cinnabar
• The Colonel
• Figaret
• Charles Tyrwhitt
• Howard's
• The Dormouse as a Butterfly
• Turnbull&Asser

Silk belt

• Boggi
• Fursac
• Cinnabar
• Pine Parma
• More accessible: The Tie Room

The final word

I really enjoyed writing this tuxedo guide. I wanted to be very concrete, with as much practical advice as possible. I hope this helped you!

Do you have any questions about a tuxedo under construction on your side? Ask us in the comments, we will answer you. :)