That jogger pants are different from drawstring pants?
That the “ranger belt” and the “western belt” are two different types of belts inspired by the American West?
That there are more styles of perfectos than fingers?
The world of clothing is full of possibilities and small variations on each type of clothing. And in Compendium , the team will work to identify and explain the stylish details or design iterations that give your clothes style.
The goal ?
Ultimately offer you reference documents that you can refer to to understand these variations, or simply to get inspiration.
Like a sort of catalog: clear, illustrated, concise, and precise. We will define these variations, where to find them, as well as two or three tips for clearly identifying the style to which they belong, and therefore wearing them well.
For this episode, we will address the issue of pockets that make your overshirts stylish.
Good reading.
Previous episodes:
The shift towards casual
I remember the time when you could hear me say:
"A pocket on a shirt? Oh no, it's still much less elegant" .
This was an opinion I had about five or six years ago, and it was even a fairly strong opinion.
I found that the breast pocket of a shirt weighed it down unnecessarily.
And indeed, whether for shirts or other pieces, we tend to associate visual purity with formalism, and by extension, with elegance.
Somehow, I must therefore agree with my “past self”.
But times change, and fashion changes with it .
And what I couldn't have predicted at the time was that today, formal elegance is losing ground.
I explained in my treatise on "Soft Tailoring" that more casual and "twisted" versions of tailored clothing were gradually taking the place occupied by "real" formal clothing before, including on "special occasions ".
But then, if “soft and relaxed elegance” becomes the new maximum of “socially accepted chic” ...
What is taking the place it occupied before?
The overshirt is the new “casual shirt”
Well if we return to the example of shirts, the “musketeer” cuffs and the immaculate and rigid collars are replaced by soft collars and more classic cuffs. This is the new formal.
The "elegant but non-formal" shirt is replaced by the shirt that was described as casual: in chambray, oxford or denim, with a button-down collar, and JUST, sometimes, a chest pocket.
Nowadays, the simple idea of putting on a shirt, no matter how casual , rather than a t-shirt, is already a bias in favor of a more dressy outfit.
Therefore, in this game of Roman chairs, where clothes exchange roles, the overshirt finds itself in the place previously occupied by the "casual shirt".
While it was previously intended for those who wanted to assert a very vintage workwear or military look, it is becoming so popular that it is becoming a basic that all worlds rework more or less in their own way.
What is an overshirt?
Oh yes, well... Casually, it would be good to provide this clarification.
First of all, one important thing: yes, an overshirt always has pockets. Like that, it's said!
They are essential to what distinguishes the overshirt from the shirt , precisely because they are what make it even more casual. And you will see that the shape of these pockets is what most characterizes their style, as well as their inspirations.
The other element of distinction is the palette of materials used, which includes more rustic, and sometimes heavier, fabrics.
And precisely, the word "overshirt" can be confusing, because in French we use this catch-all word to designate a garment with a collar and buttons, like a shirt, but whose weight and style invite to wear it over another piece.
To better navigate, in English, we often make a distinction between:
- "The overshirt "/"the outershirt " , two words to designate a garment of a weight and function comparable to that of a jacket.
Heavier, we will wear it over a sweater or sweatshirt, and it will often be made of wool, or very thick cotton. We can even expect it to have interior pockets, sometimes, or even a lining, like any outerwear item.
It is never worn next to the skin. That's the main difference. And obviously, wearing it tucked into pants would be as strange as trying the same thing with a jacket.
Although it has completely classic details, the weight and material of our boiled wool overshirt clearly make it an "outershirt" rather than a "workshirt".
- And the “ workshirt ” , which we would translate as “work shirt” . The workshirt more often refers to a garment with a thickness similar to that of a classic casual shirt , or slightly heavier, than one could wear over a t-shirt, or next to the skin. We can even consider it over a fine mesh . Depending on the look and the desired silhouette, In- or out-of-pants ports are both possible. Finally, common sense dictates that certain details of the outershirt do not lend themselves to this lighter weight : for example, it will be unlikely to find patch pockets on the bottom of a workshirt Buttons will be more moderate in size, no interior pockets or linings etc.
In this Compendium, we will only talk about "workshirts", that is to say overshirts similar to shirts, rather than those which play the role of a jacket.
Note also that, since these pieces are often inspired by American clothing, we can also use more precise words in English which categorize the designs according to their origins :
- "Utility shirt" for shirts whose design is of military origin
- "Western shirt" when they are inspired by the retro styles of the American West .
- Finally, we then place in the "workshirt" category all designs inspired by workwear , as well as those of more mixed inspirations , which are not related to the two previous categories.
Utility Shirts/Military Shirts
Military clothing is the origin of a large part of classic men's designs, and the overshirt is no exception.
Also, it would seem fair to start by detailing the three types of "OG-107" shirts , which are the American army overshirts produced during the 60s and 70s, and therefore the most emblematic of their kind.
Their weight and their design sometimes place them on the border between the "outerwear" and "shirt" category, but the pocket shapes of these three models are among the most recurring , and you will find them on overshirts of all inspirations.
(Although we will only talk about pockets here, I advise you to take a look at this excellent article from the blog "Les Indispensables Paris" on US shirts, which provides a clear and concise overview of all the details which distinguish these three models.)
1. "OG-107" Type I
The "type I" pocket has a straight, totally rectangular flap . This shape is rather rough, and in my opinion, it is the most "military" of the three.
The simplicity of the pocket's lines really goes back to its primary function.
This is a pocket that looks at you and says, straightforwardly: “Hello, I’m here to carry objects” .
This is also a good way for designers to balance an overshirt with a more precious material (silk, rayon), or a more formal color (such as white): by adding this type of pocket, we return the room has a more utilitarian dimension.
2. "OG-107" Type II
Type II, for its part, is distinguished by its flap with beveled edges.
Among the three "OG 107" models, it is the one that most reflects a "workwear" aspect in my opinion.
Moreover, you will see that this same pocket shape is often reused on workshirts.
Note that playing on the angularity of the flap is a way to make the shirt even rougher, or on the contrary to soften it.
You will see that the more brands move towards a formal style , the more they will tend to round off the beveled angles , sometimes going so far as to eliminate them in favor of an arc of a circle.
While on the contrary, those who really want to emphasize a “hard”, “solid” aspect will often make these angles even sharper and sharper.
3. “OG-107” Type III
Finally, the Type 3 flap starts as a rectangle, and ends in a moderately pronounced point.
In my opinion, its "triangular" but softened appearance makes it appear less raw than the other two.
This more "civilian" shape is commonly adopted by other pieces, and is reminiscent of the flaps of many shirts, denim jackets, and jackets.
This type of pocket therefore stands out less strongly , and does not immediately evoke belonging to a specific universe.
This is also the shape that I most often find on overshirts whose brand does not have a particularly workwear or military style. Let's say it's more "general public".
How to wear them?
If we talk about "original" models , or very faithful reproductions, they are obviously in their element among other "militaria" pieces, or with other pieces from related universes, inspired by workwear for example. But you can also take the opposite approach, and use such a shirt as the only strong piece that stands out from the rest of the outfit. I talked about this in detail in Gimmick #8 “Appropriate Vintage Military Parts” .
And since they are often among the thickest, and their cuts are very straight, OG-107 overshirts do not lend themselves to being worn tucked into pants.
However, if we are only talking about overshirts "inspired" by the details of these, and particularly the pockets, refer to the comments on each of them.
The style effect produced by the choice of pocket will be weighted, or on the contrary, accentuated by the effect of other style elements (such as the type of collar and its size, the flexibility or rigidity of the fabric, the choice of color...).
Western Shirts
“Yeeeee-haw, Cowboy!”
The Western Shirt has a name that speaks for itself.
Gradually making their return to the offerings of some cutting-edge brands, these shirts which smell of the Great West may, at first glance, be surprising.
But they were commonplace in other eras , and have remained a classic in certain regions of the United States.
We define the western shirt by three elements:
First, it's made of denim , second, it's snap fastened rather than buttoned, and third, it has two flap chest pockets.
Said like that, it doesn't seem that difficult to wear, right?
This is the case: the simplest models have nothing complex and even combine quite well with dressy pieces.
But the western shirt has a lot of potential for overkill in its details : contrasting stitching, embroidery, color of the snap buttons, shape of the collar...
And more particularly its pockets , whose play of lines and curves can make this shirt completely baroque.
So we're going to go there step by step, arranging the shapes from the most consensual to the most "ornamental cowboy".
1. Classic flap
It's classic. It's a flap. What should I add?
Our Western BonneGueule shirt, whose flap is resolutely classic. This makes it quite easy to combine with various styles of rooms.
Nothing, except that it is easy to wear . Note also, the "classic" flap of a Western shirt is the same as the flap of an OG-107 type 3 shirt, the neutrality of which was highlighted above.
2. Classic curved flap
There, the shirt begins to be more “western” .
Nothing extravagant either, but rather than a straight line or a gentle slope as on the classic flap, the point is formed by two concave curves .
A classic flap with a curved tip on this Corridor shirt. Here, it is especially the embroidery on the shoulders that makes the piece strong.
This gives it a little ornamental side, and clearly more vintage.
3. Slanted flap
Another way to make the shirt more pronounced: you can give an inclination to the pockets and their flap.
Slanted pockets on a Warehouse & Co shirt.
This detail gives something more daring to the shirt.
Moreover, it draws the eye a lot to the chest and the build .
This is the same process as the slanted pockets (but in the other direction) of some dress jackets: the angle suggests a V with shoulders wider than the waist , while on a jacket, the inverted V suggests a waist thinner than hips.
Note that in my opinion, this coquetry works better if it “underlines” a reality than if it contradicts your body shape.
4. Slanted and curved flap
Okay, now you feel like we're moving to the next level.
Combining elements of the previous two flaps, the pocket is angled and its flap ends in a concave point, which ends close to the inside edge of the flap rather than in the center of it.
Stevenson Overall shirt. To my knowledge, it's really the specialist brand for bold flaps on western shirts.
Concretely, you obtain a result which combines the two effects mentioned above : a flattering and "heroic" accentuation of the wearer's build, AND a more ornamented look.
In my opinion, it is the "strongest" pocket that one can wear in Europe, at least in a context which refers neither to horse riding, nor to the extravagance of fashion enthusiast circles.
It is always possible to moderate its effect if the other details are less busy, of course. But we must respect these pockets for what they are: a strong bias, probably too much for many.
5. Double-tipped flap
This one is a bit special.
Without having the extravagance of the previous flap, this double-pointed design is very rare outside of "real" American western shirts.
And therefore, it will give a “vintage western” touch that is difficult to hide , and therefore to coexist with other universes. And this even if the shirt is otherwise sober.
An OrSlow double-tipped western shirt. In itself, it is not so "extravagant" as that. Just very unusual.
Opt for this one if you're looking to reproduce this aesthetic in your outfits, in an authentic way, like the Levi's or Wrangler ads of yesteryear. But I don't think it's the right one for "remixing" influences.
6. Slanted and curved double-pointed flap
I told you that the western shirt had overkill potential, right? Well there you go, I didn't lie to you.
Another Stevenson Overall. I cannot deny the beauty of the form, but I am more dubious that it is socially accepted in most contexts.
If your shirt has pockets like these, one of two things: either you have a Winchester handy, and you are about to star in a feature film with the ambition of renewing the "Western" genre in the 21st century.
... Either you have gone, in my humble opinion, a little far on the lonely paths of style, and you have lost yourself in the quest for originality .
How to wear them?
It's quite simple: the more moderately the "western" aspect is expressed, the more versatile the shirt will be.
The one with classic flaps will be worn almost equally with any denim shirt. (Either with practically everything)
With curved flaps , we start to get noticed... But that's okay. If you are skilled, you will even be able to integrate it into Soft Tailoring without any problems.
For flaps more marked than these, you will undoubtedly have to play on other pieces from the “heritage Americana” register and create RRL looks, which really take on the cowboy side.
Workshirts
For the last category, we will mix both pockets resolutely inspired by workwear , and those which are reinterpretations with less defined influences.
As said above in the "utility shirts" section, a lot of workshirts feature the emblematic pocket designs of the three OG-107s .
But since they have already been described, we will not come back to them in this part.
1. Patch pocket
Simple, effective, and fairly neutral. Without doubt among the most classic of the "workwear" style.
Fields of Maneuver. This kind of pockets on a little sky blue chambray gives a casual (over)shirt that couldn't be more classic and easy to wear.
Note that buttonless versions have a certain minimalism, which brands can use to unclutter a room.
The addition of buttons already gives a more utilitarian look than the simple patch pocket, but we are still very far from incompatibility with other styles.
2. Patch pockets with pen pocket
One more small pocket in one of the pockets. Seemingly nothing, this unusual detail places a shirt more clearly in the workwear register.
Eat Dust. Note that here, we add the pen pocket, but we remove the buttons, probably to make the piece less "heavy".
This pocket makes the shirt say "I am a practical garment, which puts function before form" . Just another way to accentuate the utilitarian connotation of the workshirt.
Besides, you probably won't REALLY put a pen there : this is indeed a "connotation".
3. Pockets with rounded flaps
You can see it as a softening of the OG-107 Type II flap...
Or just as the simplest pocket flap possible.
Because regardless of any military overshirt, I believe that this form is so simple and ancient that you would be quicker to attribute the invention of the wheel to an individual than to know where exactly its inspiration came from.
Very classic too, and let's say it, entirely devoid of connotation, as it stands.
Jinji Brand . The typical workwear overshirt.
It is the other details of the room that will set the tone, because it is neutral.
Obviously, the presence or absence of buttons makes it a little more or a little less workwear. As for the plated version!
4. Pockets with rounded and slanted flaps
Elegant, don’t you think?
It was by seeing this shape that I began to think about the new role that the overshirt was taking on today.
A Corridor overshirt with slightly slanted flaps. With this material and this pattern, it takes on a whole new dimension.
When combined with more precious fabrics, these two pockets and their shape make the piece more "dressy" than it would be without, or at least, more sophisticated.
5. Bellows pockets (“cargo” fold)
Originally, the gusset of cargo pockets has a practical rather than aesthetic function: the excess material folded in the gusset can unfold, thus increasing the total volume of the pocket when you put something large enough in it. bulky.
Jinji Brand . The double bellows is also a little more military at heart.
Like the pen pocket, you're not really expected to really use the pocket like this , and fill it to the brim. But this detail also makes the shirt more “work” via the function it evokes.
6. Bellows pockets (center pleat)
Same as for the previous bellows pocket. But in my opinion, the central fold gives a rounder and more “retro” look to this gusset . Old hunting jackets used it well before the cargo-type "double pleat" became popular.
Tony Shirtmaker. Here the roundness and generous size of the flaps give a certain good nature and an “old” charm to the room.
7. Asymmetrical pockets
You will notice that many workwear shirts use two pockets of different shapes and sometimes sizes on the same shirt.
TheRealMcCoy's. This type of striped overshirt belongs 100% to "heritage" American workwear, and the asymmetry of the pockets reminds us that these pieces were designed for function, and not style.
In doing so, we further “break” the expected visual harmony , which surprises and draws the eye to the shirt. And what happens if you combine several pockets whose shapes evoke several functions?
Well, clothing itself sees itself connoted with these various functions. And thus takes on an even more marked utilitarian dimension.
“I have several types of pockets because I have many and diverse tasks to perform” is the implicit message behind this design choice.
How to wear them?
It is more difficult to give such firm advice than for the two previous categories.
The pockets considered to be those of "workshirts" are also those which are the most common and widespread. Also, it would be difficult to confine an entire shirt to one style, simply based on this detail.
Where to find overshirts?
Workshirt, Utility Shirt and Western Shirt are generally produced and sold by the same brands, since they come from worlds with very compatible styles.
Under 100 euros
Wrangler, Levi's , Hast , Field of Maneuvers, Lee 101 , Bronson MFG
100 to 200 euros
Pike Brothers , Wax London, BonneGueule , ABCL , Corridor, Jinji Brand , Aviatic, Momotaro , Japan Blue , Eat Dust, Barbanera, President's , Fortela , Brut "Rework" , Universal Works
200 euros and beyond
Stevenson Overall, , O rSlow , Rogue Territory, , TheRealMc'Coys , Kapital, Fullcount, , Warehouse & Co., Haversack , Bryceland's, RRL , 3Sixteen, Village Paris , Husbands , De Bonne Facture , Beams + , Barena Venezia , 1st Pat -Rn
Special mentions
Please note, however, that certain types of overshirts are a little more difficult to find than others.
If you are looking for a western shirt under 100 euros for example , you will probably only find them at historical players in American denim, such as Lee 101, Wrangler or Levi's.
While in much higher price ranges, some brands go very far in their ornamental approach to the "western" shirt, and treat them like the belts of the same name.
This Kapital western shirt clearly plays in a completely different category of extravagance... And price.
If you are looking for products that really stand out from the crowd, we will note the very baroque shaped pockets from Stevenson Overall , the Jacquard patterns which are almost only found at RRL , or the Kapital which rival each other in embroidery , details and washing techniques, making each model extremely unique.
I would also add a few brands whose overshirts lend themselves well to being mixed with more dressy looks , whether thanks to their more fluid materials, or their cuts with less straight and more fitted volumes: Husbands, Corridor, ABCL, De Bonne Facture, Barena Venezia, President's and Fortela.
Finally, three multi-brand e-shops are worth watching if you want to have an overview of the most high-end (and original) overshirts on the market: Jinji, Rivet & Hide, and Cultizm.
