After introducing you to Paul and his relationship with clothing , let's take a look at our new pieces that he had fun with during this shoot!
And today, these are two pieces designed for what I call “agile layering”: clothes that can easily be worn over or under other pieces, for:
- have fun , in the spirit of “fashion is a game” so dear to Paul,
- vary the textures and colors in your winter outfits.
For this, here are two very complementary pieces:
- a “technical” overshirt with high-quality insulation: if you like watching my videos where I talk about technical pieces, you will like this garment,
- a wool workwear jacket , with a completely different texture, for those who like “raw” and textured knits
BonneGueule hat, sweatshirt, overshirt and chinos. New Balance x Aimé Léon Doré sneakers.
BonneGueule hat, sweatshirt and workwear jacket.
We start with the first piece:
Our quilted overshirt: to take with you everywhere
It's a piece that we wanted to create in the same vein as our sleeveless vests, but with a more "sportswear" touch, lighter, more compact.
Basically, I wanted a piece that regulates heat very well, is compressible, and can be easily packed in a suitcase or worn while traveling.
BonneGueule hat, sweatshirt, overshirt and chinos.
It's truly a piece designed for people on the move, who need style AND reliability.
To get there, you need two things:
- a lightweight, breathable and quick-drying outer fabric
- a technically impeccable insulator (you know that I am obsessed with cold and thermal regulation)
So let’s see the fabric of this overshirt!
BonneGueule hat, sweatshirt, overshirt and chinos.
A technical fabric from French Sofileta
It is therefore a polyamide fabric made in France 🇫🇷!
It comes from Sofileta, with whom we have already worked for our technical stretch pants for example.
The yarns come from Italy, and everything is woven and dyed in France.
BonneGueule sweatshirt and overshirt.
Using polyamide specifically for this part has several advantages:
- in terms of lightness/strength ratio, it's simply unbeatable!
- having such a smooth outer fabric makes it very easy to slip—literally—under a piece, like a coat
- it is a water-repellent fabric – but without PFC – and which dries very quickly
- It’s an easy-care fabric!
- and in terms of style, it is a fabric that brings a more “sporty”, more dynamic touch to an outfit:
It is a fabric that slips easily under our coats. BonneGueule tweed coat, overshirt and turtleneck.
BonneGueule tweed coat, overshirt, pants, cap and turtleneck.
Now that we have seen the fabric that covers this shirt, let's move on to the heart of the reactor: its insulation. This is a key element, because it is what will bring the right degree of warmth to this room, while keeping a compact volume.
And what is warm, compact, and breathable insulation? The Polartec Alpha obviously!
The great return of the Polartec Alpha
After being pioneers in the use of this insulation in urban rooms, it has been a long time since we reused Polartec Alpha.
We used a weight of 80g/m2, which corresponds to an average weight, a perfect balance for urban and/or travel use.
As a reminder, Polartec Alpha® was born from a need for American special forces to have a material that protects from the cold, while being sufficiently ventilated to wick away body moisture during physical activity.
Under the outer fabric hides the famous Polartec Alpha... BonneGueule hat, sweatshirt, overshirt and chinos.
Polartec Alpha is my other favorite insulation along with Climashield, and for those who are new to it, here is everything you need to know about the development of this insulation:
In 2017, we were one of the only (and first) French brands to use Polartec® ALPHA as part of urban clothing. So much so that our Polartec® ALPHA parts now accompany the French Polartec team in its professional trade shows.
Five years later, I still remain satisfied with this insulation of the future.
It's not angora rabbit, but Polartec® ALPHA. On our piece, it is completely invisible , since it is located between the two layers of fabric.
For those who are not yet familiar with this fantastic insulator, here is what I wrote at the time:
The lifesaving reminder about Polartec® ALPHA
Polartec, insulation for US special forces
Basically, the Polartec® ALPHA is an order from the Special Forces of the American army.
In cold regions , soldiers often alternate moments of intense physical activity, where they sweat, and much more static moments, where their body temperature can drop quickly .
Until now, Special Forces had a system of layers of clothing to remove or wear depending on the situation. Good old layering, in short.
It was painful, especially when the perspiration did not have time to evacuate and the soldier had to remain motionless: perfect conditions for shivering...
Their specifications were therefore as clear as they were complicated to implement. To protect them from the cold, they needed something that:
- keeps you warm (the base),
- facilitates mobility, therefore quite compact ,
- resists compression well , especially if you roll the garment in a bag or if you wear a backpack on top,
- breathe when there is movement: excess heat must be evacuated ,
- does not fear humidity and dries quickly.
And that’s how Polartec® ALPHA was born! Moreover, Polartec's marketing director will say that its technology " makes it unnecessary to remove or add layers during major activities. "
The bubbly Brendan Leonard humorously paints a portrait of the Polartec® ALPHA, comparing it with the snow owl. This animal maintains its body at 38-40°, even when it is -50° outside.
But why does it regulate heat and humidity so well?
Usually, synthetic insulation resembles wadding, like cotton used in a pharmacy. Long cottony filaments form a more or less thick material. Problem: the wadding can sag, distribute poorly, be too bulky, etc.
Polartec therefore started from scratch, looking for another path.
Here, the filaments are replaced by a very resistant and stable mesh in the garment . There are tiny “hairs” on each side: these are what trap air and keep heat.
And it's the mesh structure that allows perspiration to circulate easily. It is important that Polartec® ALPHA dries quickly, because dry air is a much better insulator than humid air.
Since the whole thing is much more compact than wadding, this allows insulating clothing relatively close to the body can be created.
Polartec has made a video which explains in a very visual way how the Alpha® works.
Turn up the volume for epic music, and you'll want to save the world.
Quilting that doesn't sag
The Polartec® ALPHA has another advantage, quite simple for outdoor use but very important on more urban clothing...
Remember, other insulation comes in the form of wadding or feathers. If we place them as is as padding, these insulators sag . We therefore need to compartmentalize them: this is the "quilting in rooms", these small spaces that you see on any down jacket.
But we don't have this problem at all with the Polartec® ALPHA! Since it is a very stable mesh, it can be layered very simply - almost like a suit jacket interfacing - without needing to compartmentalize it.
In terms of the exterior appearance, on a “fashion” piece, it changes everything.
Because I'm not hiding anything from you: the limits of this room
Not the warmest insulation, but the most versatile
First of all, it doesn't replace a huge down jacket for very cold weather.
Quite simply because down is the most insulating thing. But at least there were — with certainty — no mistreated geese in the design of this piece.
Moreover, Polartec® ALPHA is not intended to be the warmest insulation possible, but rather the one that has the best bulk/warmth/breathability ratio.
And that was exactly what I wanted in this urban piece, which has to go from a hot subway corridor, to a cold street, and then back into a very overheated department store.
Polartec is also very transparent on this subject:
Is Alpha “warmer” than down or synthetic insulation, pound for pound?
Nate Simmons, marketing director of Polartec: " It's not warmer than synthetic insulation, for the same weight. We didn't try to invent a warmer insulation. We tried to invent a more breathable, more breathable insulation. active, and which stores more air .
In the same way that synthetic insulation is not warmer than natural down, but serves other functions.
This versatility allows the Alpha to be suitable for a wider range of activities and weather conditions. This is what makes it good padding under a windproof material, where other padded jackets do not wick away moisture well."
For city use, where you constantly go from hot to cold - while wanting to keep a fitted silhouette - this is precisely what interested me.
In summary...
Outdoor Magic , a great site on outdoor clothing, ends its review of Polartec® ALPHA with a rather reassuring conclusion... This is what reassured me in the choice of this technology!
Outdoor Magic: " Hmmm, it's ultimately a somewhat magical insulator. Not too hot when you move, not too cold or damp when you stop. This padding is the one we've seen the most this winter, and this is not going to change in the near future.
Is it an insulator? Is it a thermo-regulator? Is it a thermo-regulating insulation? Or mutant stuffing? Or a platypus material that combines all these properties?
You know what ? I don't know anything about it and I don't really care. What really matters is that it works. And it works admirably."
Now for our second piece!
Our wool work jacket in boiled wool jersey
After the monumental success of our Milo overshirts, it was clear that so-called “boiled” wool is now an essential material for our winter clothing.
A material perfectly cut for the approaching winter.
Indeed, there is no shortage of qualities in this piece:
- A 100% wool jersey that is naturally stretchy, thermo-regulating and effective against the wind. Comfort and reassurance for changing climates
- A mottled texture that is good for the eye. With a rustic and workwear appearance as we like them
- A stretchy, breathable and organic cotton lining . GOTS certified
GOTS is not an HBO series but the most demanding label on organic cottons. Auditors are sent to production sites to check respect for the environment, the traceability of raw materials, the regularity of employment, the level of wages, etc.
We therefore wanted to continue working on this material in a more “enveloping” format: a workwear jacket!
Hat, workwear jacket, sweatshirt and BonneGueule jeans.
But where did we find this supplier of boiled wool? In Italy of course!
MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA, A COMMITTED ITALIAN SPINNING MILL
MTT for friends
It all started 60 years ago in Prato, Tuscany.
The company began manufacturing particularly dense wool sheets. Later, in the 80s, it specialized in boiled wool and it was a hit: MTT became the reference in the field.
We also chose it for its ethical approach:
- 10 years ago, MTT invested heavily in solar energy. Today, it produces 90% of its energy
- Almost all of its raw material suppliers are OEKOTEX 100+ Global Recycled Standard certified. They also obtained this last certification
- The wool of our overshirt is mulesing free
From spinning to weaving, everything is done in Italy.
Then, our usual workshop takes care of the assembly in Portugal.
BonneGueule workwear jacket, sweatshirt and jeans.
One more thing…
I haven't told you everything. We love this material so much that we developed a color, for a stronger piece, for those who like more colors in their outfits.
We still ask for a little patience to have it in your hands in a few weeks...
In the meantime, let's take a look at the photos:
Stay tuned for this next color!
How to get our new parts?
Visit our e-shop or in our stores .
