Our 4 jean fits explained (and how to choose yours)

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We recently received this message on Discord:

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And it made me realize something: when you arrive at Bonnegueule, you're faced with names like :

  • Nino
  • Renji
  • Nîmes
  • BG10

... and the next legitimate question is: which one is right for me?

After more than 10 years of offering jeans, it was time to clear the air!

All the more so since, behind these four cuts, BonneGueule's history is taking shape: we've moved on from the fitted jeans of the early days to more generous silhouettes, as we've learned from customer feedback and our own learning curve. In short, it's been a long and beautiful journey.

Before we start: a few useful facts about our jeans

For each cut, I'll give you the leg opening at the ankle (measured for a size 32). This is a handy indicator for visualizing a jean's fit, or more precisely, how close it is to the body.

(There are, however, jean cuts with very wide thighs but very tight ankles, but we don't offer such extreme cuts).

Bear in mind that textiles are not an exact science (or not to the nearest millimeter): allow about 5 mm tolerance on these measurements. But that doesn't matter, because the important thing is to have the orders of magnitude in mind.

To help you compare measurements between models, don't forget that you'll find a complete size guide on every product sheet that David religiously fills in.

Finally, all our jeans are made in Portugal, using either Italian or Japanese fabrics, depending on the model.

The Nino and Alberto: the slim fit

Leg opening (size 32): 17 cm

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Jean Alberto (black) worn with shirt Volpaia and loafers Wembley

If you're looking for slim-fitting jeans, these two models are the way to go. They share the same slim fit, but differ in one essential respect: the fabric.

  • The Nino is not selvedge, which makes it more affordable in terms of price. However, it is still woven in Italy by Berto, a high-end Italian weaver.
  • As forthe Alberto, it's made from selvedge Candiani, an Italian weaver specializing in denim that I'm particularly fond of. Currently available in raw, black and ecru (my favorite), they represent our most accomplished slim fit offering.

The Nino brut, Alberto noir and Alberto écru jeans incorporate 2% elastane - a choice I appreciate for this type of cut, as it makes them more comfortable for everyday wear.

Alberto brut jeans contain no elastane, allowing you to experience the adventure of 100% cotton selvedge jeans and their unique patina over time.

The Renji: the happy medium

Leg opening (size 32): 20 cm

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Jean Renji (raw) worn with tank top Halles and shirt Calvi

One day, we started getting more and more similar messages: "I like your jeans, but I'd like a little more ease in the thighs."

The Renji was born, and has since become one of our biggest bestsellers. And it's one of your favorites.

Originally, it was aimed at those who wanted to go beyond a pair of fitted jeans without going too wide. But very quickly, Renji also became the first jeans purchased by many new customers.

We worked particularly on :

  • the pelvis,
  • the thighs
  • and leg opening

The result is a cut that's exactly halfway between fitted and really straight. It's a balance you seem to appreciate!

Today, the Renji is available in Candiani Italian selvedge and Japanese canvas, which explains the price differences depending on the fabric.

The Nîmes: the missing link

Leg opening (size 32): 18.8 cm

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Jean Nîmes (indigo)

Once I'd settled into the Renji, I had a thought: I like close-fitting cuts, but I also like the comfort of the Renji. Would it be possible to mix the two?

The Nîmes was born of this idea. In concrete terms, we took the Renji's fit and slightly slimmed down the leg: 18.8 cm opening versus 20 cm for the Renji.

The result? A silhouette that's relatively close to the body, but retains the comfort of a less constrained cut. It really is the missing link between the Alberto and the Renji, and its success here confirms that it meets a real need.

The BG10: the straight cut, anniversary version

Leg opening (size 32): 22.6 cm

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Jean BG10 (raw) worn with shirt Calvi, cardigan Bomera and moccasins Wembley

As the years went by, the demand for a true straight cut became more and more pressing. We waited for a specific date to respond: the brand's 10th anniversary.

The brief was simple: a straight cut and the finest Japanese canvas available.

The jeans were a hit. So much so, in fact, that we decided to use the fit in other fabrics and, above all, to restock it.

Compared to the Renji, the half-thigh circumference remains virtually identical (around 33 cm). But the BG10 is clearly straighter, with an opening of 22.6 cm versus 20 cm.

Another notable difference is the front fork (to put it very crudely, this is the length of the fly). It's 27 cm on the BG10 versus 25 cm on the Renji in size 32. So the BG10 has a slightly higher waist.

In short: the BG10 is the Renji's cousin, but straighter and with a slightly higher waist.

Summary: from tight to straight

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These four cuts reflect our own evolution at Bonnegueule: we started out tight, demanding, almost rigid... and over time, we've learned to find our comfort, our balance.

Now it's up to you to find yours.

If you have any questions about the nuances between these fits (leg openings, fork lengths, choice of fabric) the comments are there for that.

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