Style treatise: understanding “Soft Tailoring”

“Soft Tailoring”.

Whether in video or in our articles, you have undoubtedly already taken us in flagrante delicto of anglicism , when we used these two words.

Maybe you even said to yourself:

"Oh-la-lah, they're a bit snobbish with their terms there... What's all this stuff about 'soft tailoring'? Can't they just talk about dressy style?"

Well no, think again!

If we can doubt at first glance the usefulness of creating stylistic subgenres, we must understand that they arise from a need, from a necessity to use precise terms.

We use this term because it perfectly designates a certain aesthetic which has ended up becoming essential for anyone who wishes to both live with the times and maintain a certain elegance in their outfits.

The word "elegance" is important here: without going so far as to define it by launching into a thesis which would rather be intended for an episode of Sapristi , I would just emphasize that elegance is only one conception of style among many others , and that there are many ways to be "stylish" or "well dressed" without conveying what is generally meant by the word "elegance".

What is certain is that the idea of ​​"elegance", this word that is sometimes replaced by "chic" or "class" no longer has the hegemonic position that it may have had in the past.

Nowadays, you can “be too fancy.” We can “be too classy”. “Over-dressed” , as we say in English, “over-dressed”.

I would even say that for the lover of clothes, unless you walk around in pajamas or are downright slovenly, it is a much more tangible risk than being "too casual".

And I would go even further, saying that in my opinion, elegance is an idea that irritates more than one person these days , because it is associated with ideas of caste, social class, visual perfectionism, congestion, formalism, power...

Ideas that seemed much more “natural” in the past than today .

It is therefore logical that the style that was most identified as "elegant", namely, the "tailored" style has lost its universal character.

So , like an animal under the pressure of a hostile environment , tailoring is evolving. Slowly, its genetic code changes over generations, and the species adapts to survive.

Yes. You read me correctly.

I think we can really see this from a quasi-Darwinist point of view, except that fashion evolves much faster than biology.

If it helps, imagine tailoring as a little shimmering bird or a funny butterfly.

Even the world of business, finance and law, which were seen as the last natural habitats of Tailoringus Sartorius have gradually, decade after decade, relaxed its codes, to the point that one might wonder whether it will survive in any form for much longer.

With the upheaval of values ​​(moral as well as aesthetic), tailoring tends to shed its cocoon of "hard tailoring", in other words, of more classic tailored clothing: a cocoon made of structured shoulders, smooth and sober materials, heavy woolens with a straight fall... In short, with a statutory and formal look .

Don't get me wrong: as a clothing lover, I appreciate many styles, and classic tailoring finds favor in my eyes, too .

But here, since we are not talking about personal tastes here but about society, it is undeniable that this moult transforms the butterfly Tailoringus Sartorius new species, Tailoringus Softus , which is better able to fly on current winds : nonchalance , comfort, a touch of subversiveness...

So many ideas, sartorial principles that "balance" what today's world criticizes about the elegance of yesteryear.

Put very simply, soft tailoring is one approach among others to remain "chic", without looking stuffy , and this is what makes it part of the gigantic family of so-called "casual-chic" styles. ".

Now that you know the “why” of this style, we will be able to examine in more detail the aesthetic principles through which it is expressed.

THE FOUR PILLARS OF SOFT TAILORING

Concretely, what is soft tailoring? In my opinion, it's a style that rests on four pillars, four ideas that dictate the general direction of the entire style: from the way one designs the pieces for their comfort, to their aesthetic, including the choice materials, and how to combine them with each other.

1. FLEXIBILITY

First, flexibility. This is the main pillar, the one who gives its name to the style .

It is opposed to “structure”, to rigidity, to angulosity.

It also responds well to men's demand for comfort these days than the need to appear "less stuffy".

We don't just try to "be" comfortable in our clothes, for practicality's sake: comfort is part of the aesthetic itself, it must be felt by watching the wearer evolve in their clothes.

FLEXIBLE CONSTRUCTION

We therefore move from more constructed and structured shoulders to so-called “soft” or even “deconstructed” shoulders.

On coats, we also see so-called “raglan” shoulders, which add more relaxation.

Jackets and coats favor semi-lined or even unlined constructions . This helps both to promote the visual movement of the pieces, which follow their wearer, and to provide them with real comfort.

Where price range and quality permit, the interfacing used for jackets and coats is soft rather than firm.

THE EXTENT

Jordan dedicated an entire post to the subject of scale , in which he praises it.

Personally, I have a less assertive position than him on this subject, but one thing is certain: to allow flexibility to express itself, a minimum of width is necessary in the cuts.

I'll say it again to be clear: a MINIMUM of magnitude.

That is to say that nothing obliges you to have pants with leg openings wide enough to accommodate two (or three) calves , but you won't be able to express this obvious flexibility, this movement, if your clothes stick too much to your skin.

FLUID MATERIALS

It goes without saying that flexibility requires not only the type of construction of the parts, but the very material from which they are made.

Whether on a jacket, a coat, or pants, you will choose materials that move easily rather than rigid drapes, as you would have on a military coat, a peacoat, or thick twill pants.

When possible, soft tailoring will even express a preference for (discreetly) stretchy materials...

But not necessarily “ultra stretch”. If only because high doses of stretch tend to make materials tighten, like elastic, rather than soften them.

This extensibility also involves the very frequent use of mesh, including on pieces where we rather expect weaving .

We are therefore seeing polo shirts and polo shirts flourish where we expect classic shirts. Sweaters slip under jackets.

The jackets themselves, and sometimes even the coats, can be made from knitted fabric instead of fabric.

2. GENTLENESS

Then comes softness, which is the other meaning that we can give to the word “ soft ”. It is a softness that is both tactile and visual.

It complements flexibility, particularly through its materials.

IN THE MATERIALS

Corduroy, flannels, brushed cottons, blends with alpaca, camel, or mohair to give downy, hairy or soft textures to fabrics and knits...

But it also extends to the use of suede leather, crepe and soft rubber for the soles of shoes rather than leather soles or rigid rubber inserts.

VIA PATTERNS AND TEXTURES

Visual softness is also expressed through mottled and milled materials.

When there are patterns, such as a check or a stripe, we prefer so-called “blended” or “shaded” patterns rather than patterns that stand out sharply.

VIA COLORS

As for color combinations, we note a prevalence of shades and gradients for a feeling of harmony in the colors, rather than marked contrasts.

The preference is for "natural" tones, such as khakis, olive greens, shades of brown, but also for so-called "neutral" colors, such as beiges and ecrus, and possibly blues (the eternal color which is everywhere )... The garish colors, although they have their usefulness elsewhere break the elegant and discreet visual harmony of soft tailoring.

3. NONCHALANCE

This is the pillar that is a little more difficult to define compared to the other three, because it is counter-intuitive

Soft tailoring, through its connection with "casual-chic", is intended to be hybrid in its conception. The idea is not necessarily to make a complete outfit (also called "the total look").

It is not a codified locker room, with a precise historical and geographical origin, which can be attributed to a delimited culture, as you would see in a book on the History of Ivy League style or on "the American-Traditional" Japanese. +

No, soft tailoring is rather one of the many contemporary styles which are the product of the post-globalization and post-digital era, where the consumer potentially has access to everything that is done almost everywhere, just to pass by commands only for inspiration, and can consider mixing influences with ease.

Doing soft tailoring means, from the start, trying to bring different registers and genres together.

The contribution of external influences is therefore welcome and even necessary. It will be easy to implement with a good mastery of the harmony of colors, cuts, and a certain sense of moderation.

The paradox is therefore the following: if you only selected "Soft Tailoring" pieces to achieve a look from this same sub-genre... You would probably end up just a little too "tailoring" to be "soft" enough in the mix of genres.

Do you see the idea?

Note also that if we take the question the other way around, it is often quite easy to integrate soft tailoring pieces into an outfit of another register.

We will say that we "elevate" it to make it a little more dressy (using pants, a shirt, a jacket, shoes, etc.). Just avoid the most formal of them.

Concretely, this is expressed by:

• A diversion of tailoring codes to give them a more informal side: flannel cargo pants , use of minimalist sneakers, smart jogging pants, more original and elaborate pants closures, white jeans where we expected light pants...

• It also involves simple little things that make formal pieces more relaxed: typical example, a knitted tie rather than a classic tie.

• Of course, we will not hesitate to draw freely from the so-called "more sporty" part of the sartorial register, such as safari jackets or teba jackets. We allow ourselves the more casual details of this one, such as the belted pieces, the patch pockets...

4. ELEGANCE

Bending is always in order. Cuts with a certain clarity and morphological precision (neither oversize nor slim) are always in order.

As are coats, jackets, pleated pants, turtlenecks, vests, shoes...

In short for this pillar, let's highlight the obvious as a matter of conscience: so that the "Soft Tailoring" style is not just called "Soft", it must be based largely on original parts tailor.

This is an example of “pure” soft tailoring by photographer and influencer Milad Abedi.

SOFT TAILORING, FROM HEAD TO TOE

Now that we have discussed the "philosophy", as well as the visual principles that drive this style, we can go even more concrete.

And I think the best way to illustrate it is to show you, piece by piece, some of the clothing options that bring it to life.

1. COATS

Soft tailoring coats are intended to be warm, supple and always long enough to express said flexibility.

It is not uncommon for them to feature details such as large patch pockets, belts that create a "bathrobe" effect (while skilfully emphasizing the wearer's waist), or martingales on the back.

Raglan sleeve shoulders are also quite common.

2. JACKETS

For jackets, we can't cut corners: for them to fit into the soft tailoring register, the shoulder MUST be flexible or deconstructed . A very structured shoulder can look great, but it is difficult to combine with all the aesthetics we describe in this article.

Patch pockets will be legion, the lapels will more often have a "sport" notch than a sharp notch (also called "point").

In fact, anything that allows you to relax the dress jacket is a good idea, because alongside shoes, it is undoubtedly the element of an outfit that exudes the most formality.

You can even try something less obvious: the “corduroy suit”. Personally, it's not my taste, but it's starting to gain a little popularity, and we can argue that it's just another way of "playing down" the costume.

In some cases, dress jackets will even be knitted jackets.

Finally, in spring and mid-season, tailoring pieces that have their origins in hunting, the countryside or the military, such as the Teba Jackets and Sahariennes , are particularly suitable if you want something that is mid-season. path between the light coat and the jacket (both aesthetically and in terms of functionality).

3. TOPS

This is undoubtedly the most “vague” area for soft tailoring. These days, any shirt with a relatively generous collar is already perceived as very formal in the eyes of the general public.

And at the same time, if you have understood the principles explained earlier, and applied them to the other pieces, you should have free rein as to the type of shirt you want to insert into your outfits.

Just one warning: avoid very rigid shirt collars , they risk harmonizing poorly with the flexibility of the other pieces.

The soft button-down collar is a safe bet, even if other options can be considered.

The choices of patterns or colors relate more to the general subject of the shirt than to considerations specific to soft tailoring. But when in doubt: keep it simple rather than complicated.

However, the shirt is not the only option: to further push the vice of relaxation, flexibility and softness, the "polo-shirt" (or long-sleeved polo, depending), is also an option that will fit easily under your jackets.

If you opt for this, be sure to be particularly vigilant on two points: the combination of colors, and the harmony of the proportions of the collar with the jacket you will wear over it.

These are points to watch out for regardless of the shirt or top of course, but the somewhat "hybrid" side of the long-sleeved polo shirt worn as a shirt already raises questions... Caution is therefore advised.

4. MESH

Here, there's no need to go through all the hassle: whatever knit you have on hand , unless it's a sweatshirt (and even then... in some cases, it's worth it.), soft tailoring is made to welcome him.

Well, there are still a few specific cases where I think it would work less well: a sweater with a zipped trucker collar, a sailor sweater with the button on one shoulder, a hoodie...

And yet, for each of these examples, we can imagine one or two assemblages where this could happen.

In short, knitwear goes well with this style. However, there are two specific cases that I would like to draw your attention to.

First, the turtleneck: because its high collar provides a visual structure quite comparable to that of a closed shirt collar, the turtleneck combines particularly well with dress jackets and coats . Historically, this combination has continued to gain popularity since the middle of the last century, so much so that I hesitated to even mention it here, as it has become so obvious, not specific to a single style.

Second specific case: the knitted jacket. Yes, we already saw it above, but I would like to show you that some knitted jackets are more jackets, and others more knitted.

A joker would even have dared to say that some are “jacket stitches” . And he wouldn't be wrong.

5. PANTS

There are two ways to approach the pants in the case of soft tailoring: either your outfit is already quite loaded with casualness , via the jacket, the top, the shoes, and all the little tips that you will have picked up here.

In which case, I simply recommend going with fairly classic pants, adapted to the season and whose color will harmonize with the rest. It may be good to give it this supporting role , a benchmark of elegance on which we can build something a little more daring.

Either your outfit is both quite classic and minimalist . Which, it can also be him who spices up the outfit with a more unique design.

Be warned though, this requires a little more skill. If I say "classic AND minimalist", it's because more creative pants, in a "classic but very assertive" style risks clashing a little too much .

6. SHOES

Finally, let's talk about shoes.

In my eyes, it is complicated to state a general rule which designates certain pairs as assigned to one style rather than another.

Because shoes have two particularities that other pieces do not have.

On the one hand, it's one of the most classic elements of an outfit. Whether it's the moccasin, the ankle boot, the brogue, the brogue, the derby... It is rare that a shoe does not have a design that is several decades old. When it comes to shoes, we don't invent much, and when we really try to seek originality, it's very difficult to create consensus.

On the other hand, the shoe is more often an element which sets the tone of an outfit , or at least, which follows the general appearance of it, rather than an element which is used to give it "a twist".

It's all a matter of correctly gauging the level of formality or casualness of your ensemble , and finding a pair that respects it.

Also, I would suggest you simply refer to our shoe style guide .

Concerning the particular case of soft tailoring, we can still remember three things:

• Suede is often welcome.
• The sneaker can be considered, as long as it is minimalist , and the outfit leans more strongly towards "soft" than "tailoring".
• Classics revisited with more casual soles lend themselves well to play.

But the priority remains to choose shoes that are consistent with the rest , regardless of whether that involves using these “gimmicks” or not.

Personally, I would add that the ankle boot , in all the forms that can be found (Jodhpur, Chelsea, Brogue, Zipped, and even Combat Boot or Workboot if they are not too massive and rough), is a path worth exploring.

THE MOST “SOFT TAILORING” BRANDS:

We notice, without much surprise, that it is a market largely dominated by Italian brands.

And for good reason: flexibility and fluidity, both in constructions (think of the famous "natural shoulders", Neapolitan "spalle camicie") have long been important components of Italian tailoring, especially in the South of Italy .

ENTRY/MID-RANGE

• Lopez Aragon

VERY HIGH END

• Lardini
• Altea Milano
• Doppiaa
• Ring Jacket
• Massimo Alba
• Sartoria Giuliva and man of taste. His wife's looks and family photos are at least as inspiring as him.

• Shuhei Nishiguchi : the little Japanese favorite of “menswear” influencers. He has a clear preference for the shoulders of unstructured jackets. It is very eclectic, but we feel that it is based on the bases as we have described them here.

• Nami Man : one of my favorites for his look between soft tailoring, militaria, and workwear.
• Nicolò Minchillo : No...? WELL, ok ok... It's my own Instagram account, and I post once every 36th of the month. But I promise you: one day, there will be beautiful soft tailoring outfits on it. And regularly.

WHAT HAPPENS TO SOFT TAILORING IN SUMMER?

After reading this article, you will probably notice two things:

on the one hand, “Soft Tailoring” (at least as I presented it here) is a style very focused on winter and mid-season.

On the other hand, you have undoubtedly seen that the most soft tailoring brands are carrying out a certain stylistic change between their winter and summer collections.

Indeed, one of its pillars, that of softness , is much more compatible with winter materials. And the coat is perhaps the most emblematic element of soft tailoring, because it is by nature enveloping and fluid.

While linen, cotton, hemp, ramie, and the airier textures of summer always have drier hands, and a rougher visual appearance. Their drapes are also more “crunchy” than fluid.

But again, summer calls for the use of brighter colors , even more dazzling for those who know how to master them, whereas we have seen so far that soft tailoring rather plays on a soft visual harmony.

Result ? It's not quite the same thing anymore.

Soft tailoring in summer therefore transforms into yet another form... Which I would rather describe as "cool tailoring" .

Always soft and comfortable, always elegant. But perhaps even more nonchalant, more emboldened by the energy of sunny days, and with more rough edges.

Let's be clear, and show intellectual honesty: throughout the article, I have offered you definitions and ideas, but none of them are set in stone.

What I have shown you here is MY vision of what, in my opinion, best represents soft tailoring in all its aspects, pushed to its climax.

We can very well take inspiration from it, and look only for visual softness, or only for the flexibility of constructions and silhouettes, or colors...

Moreover, if we took the time to ask ourselves the question, we would detect many other subgenres of casual-chic , which all have the common point of having roots in the dressy style, and of mix with other styles with less formal origins:

the "Rugged" Tailoring which mixes influences of hunting, motorcycle, or militiaria à la Fortela , from the "Dark Italian" to the Transit Uomo which plays on both an image of luxury and bohemian, inspired tailoring Preppy and Ivy League, like at Drake's or Bastong , "country" tailoring that focuses on "gentleman farmer" pieces like you would have at Walker Slater or Thomas Farthing ...

Everyone deserves to see their philosophies and aesthetics qualified, explained, and popularized.

And all of them are, in some way, various iterations of this transformation that dress style is undertaking in our era.

But those are other topics for another time 😉