The new suit: selection of 20 brands and quick start guide to wear it

When there is a fundamental change in the market, we observe it as a clothing brand as well as a men's fashion media. Through the eyes of our production managers as well as those of our editors (including mine). In the showrooms of trade shows as well as in brand lookbooks.

I'm not saying this to invent a divine legitimacy for ourselves, eh. We're just people who love clothes a little too much and who want to share that. I'm telling you about it rather to introduce my discussion on the evolution of the costume with Julien, who was head of the BonneGueule collection at the time of the exchange and whose perspective was interesting.

More freedom of movement at the shoulders, more pockets, less “Sooo what time is your baptism?!”, it’s no wonder that these jackets are gradually replacing the blazer in everyday life. I myself, who wore blazers in 2016 as if I were at Pitti every day (while I was on the RER B), I now wear overshirts instead.

And as I explain in the article where I present our new collection, a question naturally arose for all the brands: if these jackets and overshirts are the new blazers, why not coordinate the material of the pants to make them the new suit?

A logical evolution of the men's wardrobe, which has become a real underlying trend. Our clothes have gradually become more casual and it was the turn of the suit. Which opens new doors in our wardrobes. Finally, possibilities. You get the idea.

Because when you think about it, this kind of set offers quite a few advantages.

• The fact that these are costumes with different shapes brings originality to our outfits.
• So we can wear them frequently without it becoming redundant. They will even become the uniform of our personal style.
• This “uniform” aspect gives a dressed-up side, a certain modern elegance.
• At the same time, we don't feel like we're overdoing it because in the end, we're only wearing an overshirt and pants.
• They can be easily mismatched for the same reason.
• We no longer have to wonder which top and bottom to pair in the morning. We just have to choose a base layer, shoes and we're off to punch life in the teeth.
• These sets are often more practical than classic suits, with more or larger pockets, and certainly less deformable.

This creativity in shapes also brings the suit into all registers: whether you are more into workwear, streetwear, sportswear or tailoring, there is a cool suit shape for you somewhere. And if you want to take the plunge, my mission is to help you find it.

Let's start by laying the foundation.

They will guide you if you don't yet have a good grasp of men's fashion. If you are already a personal shopper or you are Pharrell Williams, you can skip to the next part. And leak NERD's album in the comments (please Mr. Williams).

1. If you're still on the fence about wearing a coordinated set on a daily basis, start with a dark color like navy or dark green. It's less eye-catching than an ecru or light gray set, and it won't add the social pressure of a soy sauce stain on your thigh. Then, you can start by mixing them up and making the jump to a suit later.
2. Don't make the mistake of looking for a versatile set at all costs, because we buy this kind of piece for the thrill above all. Simply go for the one that will make your heart beat.
3. Make sure to take consistent sizes between the top and bottom so that the volumes are harmonious. For example, if you need to take a looser jacket for your shoulders, bet on a similar fullness on the pants side, even if it means having the size altered.
4. Get a top and bottom that you will wear roughly the same amount of time when you mix them up, to avoid a difference in wear that would be seen by wearing the two together. Maintain them together for the same reason.

Be aware that most brands do not sell these suits as sets on their e-shop. So you will not necessarily see them worn as a suit. Often, you will not find a link to the jacket on the pants page and vice versa.

For the majority of the selection below, I searched in parallel in the categories jackets, overshirts, shirts and pants. I recommend you do the same to make your searches more fruitful:

1. Open each category in a separate tab, split screen or split view to spot similar subjects.
2. If you see a material you like in jackets for example, do a search in ctrl+f or cmd+f in pants by typing the name and color of the material (if they are displayed under the thumbnails). Example: "bottle green cordoroy".
3. If the brand is distributed on several e-shops, you can follow the same principle on Google (or Ecosia if you have a green thumb).

Sometimes brands offer tops and bottoms in the same material just so they can buy the latter in larger quantities, thus passing a minimum purchase level with a supplier and/or reducing its price. Let's take advantage of this too!

And to be sure that a top and a bottom are in the same material, beyond its name, also think about comparing the compositions.

A little note of caution: if you bought a pair of pants last year and you see that the brand is releasing a jacket in the same material this year, the latter will not necessarily be 100% identical. It may be a different production run of the fabric, on which the material will have experienced dyeing and washing differently. This is especially the case for denim and garment dyed clothing, whose dyeing and washing effect are less controllable. If you have any doubts, simply write to the brand.

Also consider venturing into the lookbooks , where you can spot the collections' key coordinated sets.

For my part, I have pre-chewed the work for you with a selection of sets for all tastes.

Kestin

I'll start off easy: a simple set, in a simple color. No flashy patterns or textures. Which doesn't stop it from standing out with its details: the darts in the back of the jacket , the carrot-cut volume of the pants , and the grid of the ripstop fabric. A job well done, just the way we like it.

For your first outfits, the idea of ​​combining a white t-shirt + wallabees is great. A light gray sweatshirt + ecru running shoes could be good too.

The brand also offers other very nice workwear-style suits.

Walk in Paris

A more striking design for those who want to make a statement. For the ecru jacket and pants , if you don't know where to start, they will go very well with a beige hoodie and brown loafers for example.

The raw denim of the other jacket and pants set does not have the grain of a Japanese canvas, but its cut and small details defend it very well for its price. Particularly the inserts on the shoulder of the jacket and on the front of the pants.

Beams Plus

The price is going up, but it's worth it with this little chevron and this work blue color which remind us that Japanese brands know how to choose their materials.

I would wear it with a white ribbed tank top and light grey running shoes to avoid falling completely into the workwear cliché. I would add a silver pendant too. But that's just me.

Satta

Given their work on cuts and materials, it seems like Satta is one of those Japanese brands where you order in Yen, then wait 3 weeks and pray that the package arrives without customs fees. But that's not the case: it's a small British brand. And it's awesome. I highly recommend you check out their lookbook and for my part, I'll give you a link to my favorite suit from them (which is clearly no longer available on their own e-shop):

The small irregular stripes are just crazy. I'll let you admire them up close.

Hollington

We continue to explore the variations of the Canadian costume with this beautiful workwear jacket with a mandarin collar. The buttons also bring a vintage touch.

Denim pants with Italian pockets are a great alternative to jeans. Note that they are low-rise, so it all depends on your body type and preference.

An opportunity at Uniforme if you do 50/40

The jacket and pants are in storage as I write these lines. And the set is so beautiful that I wanted to show it to you. The pictures speak for themselves.

Universal Works

I really like this design , halfway between a workwear jacket and a noragi.

The placement of the pockets and the velvet + twill combo make the jacket very unique. A two-material suit, which remains easy to match with its blue, indigo but not too bright.

The twill pants are therefore cut in the same material as the sleeves of the jacket. This gives a little play of contrast between the top and the bottom while keeping the uniform side.

Another interesting outfit to put together from the brand: these pants and this jacket in a jacket format for winter.

LaneFortyfive

Brand recently tested by Jordan, who tells you all about it here.

A noragi-style jacket for a three-piece, I think it's a good idea. With the vest and shirt, the approach is more tailored but you can easily swap them for an ecru t-shirt and white tennis shoes on your feet.

Also know that this is a pre-order , so you will have to wait a little while, but the good news is that you will be able to choose your velvet color.
You will find the jacket here and the vest there . For the pants, there is this one for a classic approach and this fatigue pant shape which would make the whole thing even more original. If you are hesitant, I vote for the second one.

Maharishi

A beautiful patchwork set whose material games are consistent between the top and the bottom. All while remaining on the same color palette. It will therefore not be a headache to match. Simply wear it as you would have worn an overshirt and green pants.

California Arts

This is almost off-topic, but this is my article and I can do what I want: here is a Canadian costume that you can put together in the same black denim on the top and bottom.

Precise volumes, deep black and above all (forgive my subjectivity) a straight cut + a high waist <3.

Often, when you wear a Canadian suit, you combine two pieces in a denim that is close but not exactly the same. Here, having the same fabric brings a continuity that does not go unnoticed. And this will be even more the case when the whole thing will patina in the same way (provided you wear and wash them at the same frequency again).

Choosing black denim also limits the chances of falling into the cliché of the kitsch Canadian costume in the 2000s. I'll refrain from illustrating my point with Justin and Britney's outfits on a red carpet in 2001, but Google can regale you if you don't know this photo.

Dante

A brand with very fanciful creations, Dante has a taste for sartorial adventure. This set seems like a basic next to the rest of the collection and yet, it does not lack personality with its two chest pockets, positioned in the center of the overshirt and which therefore become... diaphragm pockets?

In any case, I find it rather well executed. The stripes and the generosity of the collar also score points. If all this makes you chilly, know that the anthracite version would be much less intimidating with a light gray t-shirt and white sneakers for example.

Grey overshirt here, grey pants here, orange jacket here and orange pants there.

Barena

A beautiful overshirt and pants set in fade dye velvet, with big ribbing, faded shades as we like them and a more refined aesthetic than its counterparts in the workwear selection above. To be combined with a navy blue t-shirt, an ecru knit or a white oxford shirt for example.

A Kind of Guise

A set proposed by our friend Jordan, creative manager at BonneGueule, and a paisley patterned velvet that will leave no one indifferent. When you love fashion, there are days when you want to go all out. This suit is made for those days.

A beige base layer (to echo the weave of his drawing) and brown shoes would go wonderfully with it.

Wax London

If you fell in love with the psyche motif above but found it too flashy, this one is a good alternative, darker and therefore more discreet. At least, when seen from a distance.

Portuguese Flannel

For those who like English checked suits, here is a more casual, more modern and more Portuguese equivalent.

It is made of pure new wool and can be worn in both autumn and winter.

Overshirt here and pants there.

Kardo

A brand with which we released a collaboration this summer, Kardo uses know-how and materials that revive Indian traditions. You only have to zoom in on this silk, spun on artisanal looms, to realize that there is something special going on behind these clothes.

I am suggesting it to you in this category because its seams give it a quilted look which makes it perfect alongside a sweatshirt, a baseball cap and a pair of running shoes.

Overshirt link here and pants right there, in three colors.

Percival

The texture of this wool is so fluffy that it would go unnoticed in the middle of a flock of fleeces. As long as they are all green, but you get the idea.

It will go just as well with running shoes as with loafers, as the brand's photos prove. Or with slippers to save on heating on a day of teleworking at home.

The jacket version in the first photo is sold out, but you have the overshirt here and the pants there.

Oliver Spencer

Here, everything is played out on the open collar of the jacket and the fluidity of the material, which will not disorient costume fans too much. Which does not prevent the jacket from going towards more casualness, with pockets inspired by its workwear cousins.

Olive

The design is closer to that of a three-button blazer and at the same time, it moves a little further away from the traditional suit with the relaxed texture of its material and its loose fit. And what a fit!

Scott Fraser

Very personally, Scott Fraser is not a brand in my eyes. It's a life goal. It brings together everything I like: retro influences that can go back to the 50s and which give a crazy charm, creations based on iconic vintage pieces, tank tops, mafia chains and wide pants ready to accommodate my rugby man calves (while the rest of my body clearly doesn't follow).

It also includes things that I like less: customs fees and slightly high prices.

But hey, it's the kind of madness that you do once in your life. At least, for ordinary mortals. So if you want to take the plunge, you just have to choose the same material for your jacket and your pants. On order, therefore.

Beams Plus (again)

For next summer or the current seemingly endless Indian summer: textured seersucker, a relaxed jacket shape and a versatile navy blue. Simple, effective and above all very beautiful.

As you probably know, we are also a clothing brand ourselves. And like the articles in our media, our clothes follow the obsessions of our team. Here are two sets that we designed with love, made in Europe, in two 100% wool fabrics that have their say.

Small spoiler: we are also releasing a set on October 26, with a new shape for us and very thick corduroy.

With these tips, this selection of brands and our own offer, we hope to have given you the keys to find the set that suits you best. And if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask us in the comments below!

See you soon,

Michael