BonneGueule brand: the Schoeller technical wool raincoat

New : the technical raincoat , the beige and khaki velvet pants , and the Toki winter sweatshirt are now available!

The story of this piece is special because, basically, I don't wear a raincoat at all.

I have simply never found a model that I really like, even though this garment meets a real need: protection from the rain, and particularly when wearing a suit, a blazer or a chunky knit.

This implies two things:

• a comfortable fit at the shoulders, even when wearing a blazer . This can sometimes be tricky with a classic coat with well-defined shoulders...

• and a material that is breathable enough - so you don't die of heat as soon as you get on public transport - but which must still protect you from the elements .

Finally, I needed a visual rendering that would make me want to wear the rain coat... It's quite simple, I never part with my prototype anymore.

Let's see how we arrived at this result...

The material: c_change™ merino from Schoeller

We are dealing with a laminated material, that is to say that it is composed of two layers glued together by passing them through large cylinders:

• on the outside : merino wool mixed with 20% technical polyester (fine fibres, and generally extruded), chosen for its breathable qualities, and to ensure consistency with the c_change™ laminated membrane.

• Inside : the c_change™ membrane, a new generation polymer that lets water vapor pass through at the microscopic scale, but stops liquids.

Which ultimately gives a blend of 71% merino wool, 18% polyester, 11% polyurethane .

A rare composition for a very natural result

The presence of wool intrigued me, as it is a rare material in technical fabrics.

It has two advantages here:

• provide the piece with all the properties of merino wool : thermal insulation, hydrophobic material, does not absorb odors, does not crease...

• and above all, give an ultra-natural finish to the material!

A wool that hides its game well

Thanks to the texture of the wool, this raincoat has an elegant and timeless look . It also brings originality, since merino is rarely used for rainwear.

And the color is full of nuances. We have a nice flea market which gives relief to the piece.

The wool has been mottled to avoid any overly smooth finish. This also brings a welcome touch of relaxation.

Very clearly, it is visually impossible to know that it is a technical material !

No no no.

All you see is a beautiful woolen cloth.

“Isn’t the material too thick for a raincoat?”

No, don't worry.

Although the appearance gives the impression that it is a classic wool coat cloth, it is quite different.

In terms of thickness, it feels much closer to the feel of our softshell or any other raincoat than a standard coat. You should store this piece alongside a trench coat or a mac.

For your information, the material has a weight of 280g/m² and a fluid drape.

Finally, the last detail that warms the heart: Schoeller certifies that the merino wool used comes from a farm that does not practice mulesing. .

With a material weight of 280g/m², the raincoat remains a light piece to wear.

A removable and discreet hood

Macs and other trench coats have always been a strange paradox for me: why refer to these pieces as rainwear... when they don't protect the head?

Rain gear is supposed to protect your head!

I understand of course that a garment without a hood is more elegant (we lose the "sportswear" connotation), but still...

So I wanted to bring together the best of both worlds.

So there is a hood, but it can be easily removed with a zip.

And when the raincoat is without a hood, the zip is completely invisible, hidden by the collar.

Once the hood is removed, and the collar is positioned normally, you have a classic raincoat!

The zip is completely invisible, hidden by the collar.

To solve the thorny question "Do I have to hold my hood in my hand all day when I take it off?" , a large interior pocket has been placed at the bottom of the raincoat. It allows you to store the folded hood there.

Stored in this way, the hood will be ready to use in any circumstance.

So that's what I wanted: a beautiful, elegant garment... with a strong practical dimension .

Without a hood, with hidden snap buttons, the silhouette is clean and timeless.

A cut adapted to tailored pieces

The coat/blazer combo is elegant, no doubt about it. But you will agree: we have seen better in terms of comfort, especially if the wool fabric is thick. However, it was clear to me: we had to be able to easily wear a jacket under our raincoat. .

Let’s take a concrete example: me this morning.

I usually wear our camel coat in size 48 and wear a blazer underneath, but the comfort takes a hit. Whereas here, with the raincoat in size 48 and the same blazer, it's very comfortable... It reminds me of the comfort of a Norwegian Rain for those in the know!

So I really thought of a piece so that you could wear a layer underneath. .

But that doesn't mean the cut is loose, far from it! Don't make the mistake of Nicolò who found it too straight on a hanger, only to realize that it was still fitted when he saw me wearing it. Let's just say that we didn't embark on an endless race to fit.

A fitted cut just right, suitable for wearing with a blazer or chunky knit.

In terms of length, it reaches mid-thigh: perfect for your casual outfits , with sneakers for example. .

Now that we've reviewed the exterior of this raincoat, let's see what's under the hood. Let's start with that famous "technical material that doesn't look like it" from Schoeller...

Schoeller's c_change membrane

A material inspired by nature

After the Sympatex™ membrane on our softshell and the eVent™ from our collaboration with ColdSmoke , here is a new arrival: the c_change™ membrane from Schoeller.

Its operation is rather atypical...

Most other membranes rely on a principle of pores: large enough to let sweat escape but small enough to prevent a drop of rain from entering.

But the c_change™ draws its inspiration from a... pine cone.

Just like it, depending on the temperature, the pores of the c_change™ expand or contract .

The video is a little old, but explains how it works well.

An active membrane that adapts to temperature and humidity

Schoeller points out that the membrane reacts not only to temperature, but also to body moisture . How? Trade secret...

In fact, when the wearer's body heats up, the membrane opens so that heat and sweat can escape more easily.

And when the temperature drops, the pores shrink , preventing heat loss.

This results in a membrane that truly adapts to climatic conditions and the activity of its wearer.

Schoeller's pictograms on the properties of c_change.

But as usual with manufacturers of technical materials, their descriptions give the impression of being faced with the eighth wonder. textile of the world.

So I had to make up my own mind! What does it really look like?

My opinion on technical wool with c_change™ membrane

A material that “keeps its promises”

As usual, I begin my investigation by seeking opinions on this matter.

It's definitely not as popular as Gore-Tex™ due to its price, but the feedback is very enthusiastic :

The return of Road.cc (the BonneGueule of cycling) who tests a Mission Workshop jacket in c_change :

[The c_change™] looks impressive and delivers on its promises. I would even go further and say it is truly incredible. I am the type to sweat a lot when I give it my all on a bike.

The return of "Feed the habit", a site dealing with the outdoors, which tests a hiking jacket from the Westcomb brand :

Compared to competing materials (eVent, Polartec NeoShell, Gore-Tex Active), Schoeller c_change wool works like a sieve. Needless to say, it breathes incredibly well.

This week I had to shovel snow, and I had further proof of its breathability. No sweat condensation inside, except on the taped seams.

In terms of rain resistance, all the tests I carried out in wet weather (heavy rain, snow) proved very pleasant total waterproofing.

Rather reassuring... As an indication, here are some brands using Schoeller c_change™: Mission Workshop , KJUS and Perfect Moment .

That's what they say about c_change™. Now let's move on to my "on-the-ground" testing of the prototypes!

The Urban Jungle Test

A windproof piece

We'll start with a simple feature to test: the ability to protect from wind.

I had a nice glimpse of it last Sunday, when I left the Montparnasse train station. It was about 10°C and, as usual in this part of Paris, it was very windy. I was only wearing a denim shirt under my raincoat...

Well, the combination of merino and membrane was a perfect barrier to the wind. I didn't even need to wear a jersey underneath that day.

Thanks to the merino coupled with the c_change™ membrane, you will be effectively protected from the wind.

A raincoat that keeps you warm

I also wore the raincoat with a blazer, when it was 5°C. I was neither too hot nor too cold.

The "thermal versatility" of this piece surprises me a lot. I didn't think I could wear it in such low temperatures. Given its lightness, I think I'll be as comfortable in it as in spring!

Now let's look at a much more complex property: the impermeability of c_change™...

As you know, the waterproofness of a piece does not only depend on the material, but also on the way the seams are treated. Let's be clear right away: there are no waterproof seams on this raincoat, and I'll explain why.

Why are there no sealed seams?

A price not to be exceeded

This was one of the most difficult decisions to make on this piece.

I was facing a huge dilemma, I thought about it even at night.

And if there are no waterproof seams on this piece, it is because they are not absolutely essential, but it is mainly for price reasons.

It is impossible to have Schoeller material AND waterproof seams, on such a long piece, for less than €400.

Even with our "no middleman margins", this raincoat would cost around €600 if I had opted for heat-sealed seams.

And at a "normal" brand, I saw equivalent products at around €800. This gives you an idea of ​​the prices for technical clothing...

So I opted for an affordable piece, with top-quality material, but which remains totally suitable for an urban downpour.

Not wanting to compromise on the material, I chose not to adopt waterproof seams. We will see below why they are not essential.

A piece that remains waterproof

The material is completely waterproof, but not the raincoat itself. I would call it "rain proof", "weather resistant" or "rain resistant", rather than "waterproof" .

In fact, this piece will protect you perfectly in urban use , i.e. a walk of about an hour in a heavy downpour (and as much as you want in light rain).

To console myself, I reread the article by Noah's designer , who called welded seams an excessive "feature" on an urban jacket: we ultimately spend very little time in the rain. Objectively, he's not wrong.

But if there were no waterproof seams, I had to discover the limits of this piece. So I set out to test its waterproofness .

My test protocol: rain + shower

Test under Parisian rain

Every time it rained and I was in the office, I would run and get under it (yes, I got weird looks sometimes).

But long showers are rare, and I have rarely found myself in the rain for more than 10 minutes.

To my relief, no problems to report. You remain perfectly dry.

But that wasn't enough. Since the weather didn't want to help me, I resorted to drastic measures.

Shower test

We have a shower in our offices.

Enough to settle once and for all the question of waterproofing without sealed seams...

Initial conditions:

• clothes worn underneath:
  • black Renhsen selvedge jeans,
  • our TOKI winter sweatshirt ,
  • T-shirt whose brand I forgot,
  • barefoot so as not to ruin my shoes

• Raincoat closed, hood up.

Phase 1:

• coldest water possible,

• pressure at 2/3 of the tap,

• time spent in the shower: 5 minutes.

After five minutes, I start to get bored. Nothing happens: no soaking wet hair, no feeling of humidity. So I move on to phase 2.

Yes, like this turtle and its shell facing the water (a hard "shell"?), I wanted to know if I could (happily) reproduce the experience with our raincoat!

Phase 2:

• coldest water possible,

• pressure at FULL, tap turned to FULL,

• regular changes of position, to vary the “points of attack” of the water,

• time spent in the shower: 5 minutes.

Needless to say, there were downpours over my head! I don't think there are such rainy conditions in nature, unless you decide to go fishing on a trawler in the middle of a storm!

After another five minutes, I start going around in circles, so I stop the test.

First observation: my head and hair are dry. I touch my shoulders , my sweatshirt is completely dry too.

Second observation: I inspect the raincoat conscientiously. Nothing at the hood, the water has barely managed to infiltrate the seams. At the shoulders, the water has managed to infiltrate a little more, but the lining is not soaked. At most slightly damp.

So I can say with confidence: you won't end up soaked with this raincoat, that's for sure.

My conclusion on the tightness of the room

In the city, going from point A to point B in a downpour is no problem at all.

Objectively, I think you'd have to walk for at least 20 minutes in pouring rain to start to feel uncomfortable. And even then... But in a "classic" downpour, no worries!

On the finishing side?

I've already told you about the hood and the pocket to store it. Here's what you need to know:

Two interior zipped pockets

No way you'll lose your personal belongings. Each pocket is well secured.

Your belongings won't be lost, we promise.

A double YKK zip at the front

On long pieces, I find the double slider essential. Especially when you are sitting or if, like me, you have wide hips compared to your waist. In this case, I am very happy to be able to add ease by opening the bottom zip .

A double zip is more comfortable on a long piece: it makes it easier to close and allows you to play on ease.

What about maintenance?

How to wear a heather blue raincoat?

As I was saying, the raincoat was designed so that it could be worn with a blazer. Here, François opts for the eternal casual chic, completing his outfit with a white shirt and raw jeans (chinos would work just as well, by the way). If he chooses to keep the hood, we can imagine it removed to accentuate the dressy side of the outfit. (BonneGueule shirt to come, De Fursac blazer, BonneGueule jeans , Grenson brogues at British Shoes

The heather of the raincoat lends itself well to effects such as herringbone or tweed, think about it when creating your looks.

Here, the velvet pants and the chunky knit complement each other, each piece echoing the relief of the other. The raincoat fits in naturally, highlighting the sweater collar in the process. The boots bring a more "adventurer" touch to the whole, which is reinforced by the khaki of the pants. Besides, there is no particular difficulty! ( Hartford sweater, BonneGueule velvet pants , Hudson boots at British Shoes

Chambray, velvet, merino, superyak: this look is interesting in its approach to materials, offering a rich mix. The color combination is harmonious: the cardigan and pants create a monochrome, enhanced by the stronger blue of the shirt. The white sneakers finish the outfit on a casual and spontaneous note, even if we could have imagined a pair of boots. ( Maruwa chambray shirt BonneGueule , superyak cardigan BonneGueule , velvet pants BonneGueule , sneakers COS )

How to order our raincoat?

The technical raincoat , beige and khaki velvet pants , and the Toki winter sweatshirt are now available!