Tips: How to choose and wear a men's sweater or cardigan?

Small aside: the Woolmark label designates wool from the shearing of healthy, living animals. All other designations - 100% wool, pure wool or simply wool - evoke potential treatments of the material or recycled wool.

But for a softer and more comfortable sweater or cardigan , there are blends with cotton or cashmere. There are also some with synthetic materials: viscose, modal, polyester, acrylic, etc.

For the latter, make sure that the synthetic content does not exceed 30% (20% would be even better), but keep in mind that these 20 or 30% are not necessarily a bad thing. Adding a synthetic content can give more hold and robustness to the mesh, while keeping a low price.

The downside of synthetic is that thermal regulation is less effective than with 100% wool: the material absorbs odors more easily and does not manage excess heat well . But sometimes, adding synthetic remains the only way to have a piece that looks like a chunky knit at a very reasonable price.

On the other hand, beyond 30% synthetic, it’s a firm “no” !

MERINO WOOL: YOUR ALLY AGAINST THE COLD

Another alternative is merino wool, which is my favorite. It comes from merino sheep, which originally came from Spain (now they are all over the world, especially in New Zealand and Australia). It is:

• Softer,
• Warmer,
• And more robust than classic wool.

What does the people ask for?

Sometimes you will see the term Extrafine or Superfine merino. This corresponds to the diameter of the hair but, despite my extensive research, the numbers are never the same .

For example, Superfine grade corresponds to a fiber diameter between 17.6 and 18.5 microns on the official Australian Breeders website .

Except that... on the website of the Australian Wool Association (a different but nonetheless state-owned organization), the Superfine grade is equivalent to a diameter between 15.6 and 18.5 microns .

Except that... on the Australian breeders' side, a grade below 17.5 microns corresponds to another name: Ultrafine !

Except that... on the Wikipedia page for merino wool , Ultrafine refers to diameters between 15 and 11.5 microns!

As for the name Extrafine , it is even more problematic: some claim that it is another name for Superfine , and others that it is an even finer wool than Ultrafine . In short, it is a mess!

The only thing we can take from it is that the mentions Extrafine or Superfine are rather a good sign, the material being softer than a normal merino wool. Good luck finding your way around.

For comparison, the diameter of a cashmere fiber is between 14 and 18 microns... It is therefore possible to have wool as soft as cashmere, and it can go even further! For example, Loro Piana has managed to produce wool less than 11 microns in diameter.

ALPACA, CASHMERE, VICUNA: WHAT ARE THE “PRECIOUS” WOOLS WORTH?

Alpaca, camel and vicuna (from camelids ), cashmere and mohair (from goats), angora (from rabbits) or even yak wool are rarer and more noble materials . What are their real assets?

Cashmere is the down or "undercoat" produced by Kashmir goats . It is one of the finest hairs along with the vicuna and the angora (the diameter of these fibers varies between 10 and 15 microns, compared to a range between 18 and 25 on merino wool which is already very fine). And the finer the hair, the softer it is!

Another fiber that comes from goats, this time from Turkey, is mohair. Like cashmere, it is a light, silky, shiny, elastic, soft and warm material. If you see knitwear with long hairs sticking out, there is a good chance that there is mohair in this piece.

The alpaca and the vicuna are two relatively closely related species of camelids, native to South America. Their fibers are very soft, light and protect against very low temperatures.

Vicuña is the most luxurious of all because it is the finest, making it unaffordable for ordinary mortals . Expect to pay around €10,000 for a vicuna jacket. Its insulating power and softness are, it seems, exceptional. The price of vicuna is simply explained by the extreme rarity of world production.

Concerning the name baby alpaca , it refers to the fibers from the first shearings, which are therefore finer (around 22.5 microns in diameter on average).

There is much less information about camel wool. What we do know is that it is a fine and soft fiber, similar to cashmere and difficult to spin. In addition, the quality varies enormously between different species and their origins!

These camelid wools are rarely dyed. On the one hand, to preserve the softness of the fibers; on the other hand, because their original color offers a much more beautiful natural rendering.

Angora is also very popular in luxury. The hair, once combed, is very long and easy to work with: two important advantages. Its absorption power is very high.

Finally, there is also yak wool. This animal originating from the Himalayas has a very long fleece that can protect it from temperatures around -40°C. It therefore produces one of the warmest wools that exist.

All these materials are rarer but also more fragile . They are very rarely found in a high percentage on a label. They are often mixed with each other or with classic wool, or even with synthetic fibers. Without this, the pieces produced would be far too fragile... and far too expensive .

WHAT MAKES A HIGH-END KNITWEAR AND WHY INVEST IN IT?

A MATTER OF ASSEMBLY...

First, the way the part is designed plays an important role. There are two ways to do this:

• Cut and sewn ,
• And the re-meshed (or fully-fashioned ).

Cut and sew involves cutting out the different parts of the piece from a large piece of knitwear and then sewing them together. The problem is that there is inevitably some material loss.

The fully-fashioned technique is different: the piece is shaped entirely by knitting, there is no sewing. A sleeve is assembled directly by knitting it at the armhole. Similarly, the pockets will be knitted and not patched.

This second technique is the must in terms of quality. More refined, more solid and less material loss . Inevitably, a fully-fashioned piece will be more expensive since it requires more time and superior expertise.

Tarlach, with whom we worked for our cardigan in collaboration with Inis Meáin, explained this technique to us very well. You can find more details in a very good article (in English, but very visual) teaching you to distinguish a cut and sew from a darning . You will see, after having learned the "trick", it becomes fun to see which method it is!

One thing to know about mesh: as with shoes or leather, you can't cheat on quality. Here, it's less for the visual aspect of the material than for its durability: poor quality mesh will wear out and get holes very quickly.

...AND DENSITY

Another important quality criterion is the density of the knit. In concrete terms, when you look at a piece, you should ask yourself whether the knit is tight and looks solid or not . Even if it means putting the material to the test by stretching it slightly 6.

WHAT ABOUT MAINTENANCE AND WHY DOES THE KNIT BILL?

THE SWEATER THAT PILLS

My sweater is pilling, help? No, don't be radical. Everyone deserves a second chance.

As Geoffrey explained very well in his article on living clothes VS dead clothes , a sweater that pills is not a sign of poor quality .

This is a natural process of shedding the material. However, the pilling should appear during the first few washes and then disappear afterwards 7.

Moreover, the pilling phenomenon is particularly present on cashmere. So don't panic, let the material live.

BEWARE OF PRECONCEIVED IDEAS ABOUT SOFTNESS

Conversely, be wary of clothes that do not have any pilling when you buy them: they probably hide several treatment sessions that have damaged the material. Pilling may appear... but later and for a long time. Too bad!

It's exactly the same problem with the softness of a sweater. Be wary if nothing on the label justifies this softness (like merino wool or cashmere): the material has surely been treated and therefore necessarily damaged!

Wool can be rough - as we saw earlier - and yet of very good quality. It will soften over time. Well, we're not talking about miracles either! I will never wear my virgin wool sweater next to my skin, even after 10 years of living together.

MACHINE CARE

Regarding the care of wool, machine washing is permitted at a maximum of 30° . The same goes for cotton knits. For other, more precious materials, hand wash only and cold.

There are special shampoos for wool. Be careful, don't use too much! The more products you use, the more the material will be damaged. Especially since wool breathes and doesn't get dirty very much, so it's no use. Oh, and there's no point in soaking your sweater for an hour; just soak the garment in water for a minute!

Finally, never put a stitch in the dryer or dry it on a hanger. FORBIDDEN. Dry flat only, otherwise the garment will lose its shape.

Note from Benoît: Having spoken with professionals in the sector, among them, very few wash their chunky knits more than once a year... while knowing that there are some who never wash them. Remember: because of the hydrophobic nature of wool, it does not absorb odors and perspiration does not become embedded.

HOW TO WEAR KNITWEAR?

Knitwear therefore refers to all knitted items. Finally, a large number of pieces in the men's wardrobe belong to this category:

• Hosiery 8,
• Sweatshirts (cotton fleece),
• Polo shirts (in cotton jersey),
• The hoodies,
• And even the t-shirts .

But here we will not be interested in these pieces that we have already discussed. So, what are we going to talk about? What if we talked about me?

WEARING SMALL KNIT CARDIGANS AND SWEATERS

Small knits are often more difficult to wear and offer less variety of use than large, thick knits. Already, because they do not have the rough side that the latter can have, but also because they hold less hot.

Logically, it is therefore more suitable for mid-season, although it can be useful for layering in winter.

Relatively thin and lightweight wool sweaters are particularly interesting. They are generally comfortable - especially if you choose them in merino wool or cashmere - and can be worn under thicker cardigans, or even under a coat if it is fitted and warm enough.

They are also practical on a shirt in winter, when the temperatures drop. I find that round collars are easier to wear and more modern. Now, if you also want to add a tie, you can opt for a V-neck as long as you don't choose it too deep.

Generally speaking, the collar of your sweater should hit at your collarbones.

There are many fine sweaters with textured material. They are ideal to be worn alone because they are less "boring" than classic models. But if you prefer a smooth texture, do not be afraid to choose bright colors that are a little out of the ordinary: green, mustard yellow, red...

Another fine knit that we tend to forget: lightweight turtleneck undershirts. They offer stylish looks worn under a denim jacket or any other slightly original jacket such as workwear, military jacket, Barbour, etc. They will most often be made of cotton because they are very fine pieces.

Personally, as a woman, I'm not a big fan of fine knit cardigans for men. I've never really seen any successful outfits with such a piece. In fact, I have a hard time imagining what a man could wear it with. On a shirt, you risk seeing the folds of the sleeves appear. On a t-shirt, I find the result either too feminine or too flat.

In this sense, I find that large knits are much more interesting!

Benoit's note: I disagree, a thin cardigan under a suit jacket can be great.

INTEGRATE CHUNKY KNIT CARDIGANS AND SWEATERS INTO YOUR LOOKS

A cardigan and/or a chunky knit sweater are definitely a staple in men's fashion. Having at least one chunky knit piece seems essential to me , especially for winter.

If you haven't yet tasted the joys of winter in chunky knits, you're missing out.

A cardigan is more versatile than a sweater, in the sense that you can wear it with different pieces. But a sweater has the advantage of being able to be worn alone and therefore less hassle.

One item that I find really interesting is the big Aran sweater. A true heritage of Irish culture and especially of the Aran Islands (which includes Inis Meáin), it is loaded with history. It is not just the big unbleached wool cable sweater.

The chunky knit turtleneck sweater is also much more versatile than you might think. It works extremely well under a blazer and even with a full suit . Bring out your inner Sean Connery!