Take a taupe suit. Add white stripes: you get a wedding outfit. Large, fine checks? A very stylish professional suit. And if it is woven with a Prince of Wales pattern? It will be worn in the evening with a shirt and a 5-pocket jacket.
What better than a pattern to set the tone for an outfit? Checks, flowers, stripes and other patterns have always acted like compasses on the men's wardrobe, directing the garment towards multiple uses and various occasions.
The tartan alone sums up the incredible symbolic power of the pattern: these complex squares, known throughout the world, were enough to express the social rank and power of a man. True sartorial coats of arms, they were the result of sophisticated and thoughtful work, owing nothing to chance... Which has not changed much.
That being said, it is not always easy to find your way around. What is the point of a pattern? Which one to choose? For what occasions? This is what we are going to see together.
Why wear patterns?
There is no real standard answer to this question. This is a purely personal choice, there is no obligation to wear one.
However, when you're looking to "level up" your costume, this is a great option. They add style and character to the piece , with varying intensity.
Some, like wide stripes, evoke a great formalism, while the Prince of Wales is more fanciful. The negative side of all this is that a pattern can also go out of fashion - really - and is not necessarily easy to match: it will have difficulty being worn with another pattern for example, with the exception of the pocket square or the tie. .
The Pitti, the largest parade of patterned costumes in the world!
Now it's time to get into the details: we're going to guide you through the patterns, classified by major families. The list cannot be exhaustive but includes the great classics. At the end of the article, you'll find a selection of good addresses to make your purchase!
The most common: squares
Squares are THE large family of geometric patterns, those that we find the most due to the plurality of variations.
They are everywhere today, even if you will rarely find gingham or checkerboard in the world of suits, unlike checks.
Tiles, an easy approach to patterns
After purchasing one or two plain, sober suits, many people opt for checks when it comes to a more "distinguished" model.
If the checkers are very rare (and fortunately), tiles remain both an easy and original choice.
They come in different sizes, most often quite large. But even more than the size, it is the colors that determine whether the pattern is flashy or not.
Subtle.
In all discretion with tone on tone
The tone on tone, very discreet, will consist of a barely perceptible nuance between the color of the costume and that of the pattern .
The result is a fabric that is almost textured by the pattern that can only be seen up close, yet offers a nice depth.
Almost invisible here, the pattern is nevertheless very present and will bring an interesting variation of texture.
Its sobriety makes it a choice pattern for versatile pieces : you can go to work with it without any problem, but it will be no less appropriate for a date or a wedding. From there, you can play on the shirt and accessories to change the tone of your look.
For the moment, the patterns are playable (more marked squares, for example) and will give a more dressy side to the outfit. The plain white shirt and the tie, very professional, can be swapped for a shirt more colorful or even a sweater. We can also imagine a bow tie slipping in, just to bring a touch of sophistication.
A first ultra classic look, a second well done with the fine sweater which more strongly recalls the pattern of the suit.
Contrasting tiles, controlled originality
The contrasting tile remains, in my opinion, the most interesting: the edges will be of a much more visible color, which will highlight the pattern.
While tone on tone suits all body types, strong men will be wary of contrasting tiles for their massive look .
Right now, for example, there are plenty of navy blue canvases marked with fine white squares, which works very well!
Just as dressy as the others, it is generally worn with a plain shirt: it is therefore very easy to match.
There's really no need to be afraid of it because it's a simple pattern that has become very popular in men's fashion in recent years.
Big plus: its ability to inspire a "sport chic" touch in an outfit composed for example of a polo shirt and chinos, or even light shorts. The looks are more daring, but the pieces work really well together. We can imagine a jacket with more sober checks and beige chinos for a simpler version to execute.
The case of checkers and gingham
Finally, there are the checkerboard/gingham patterns, which are more difficult to tame. The first are clearly out of reach, much too close to disguise in terms of costume.
The gingham pattern, characterized by the crossing of solid two-tone lines, is much more common and affordable.
Blue, brown, black: gingham checks come in many shades . Rightly so, they give off a retro image when the suit is made in a thick wool like tweed, although a smooth flannel gingham is much more timeless.
A superb, lightweight gingham jacket in a Neapolitan style.
Imposing even when the colours are sober, gingham will also be enough for a plain shirt. It is also not recommended in strict professional environments , but offers superb outfits for the evening: worn with jeans, it is a hit.
Sometimes sartorial, sometimes modern and refined, gingham takes on many tones.
Now let's come to some slightly more complex square family patterns, in every sense of the word!
The most British of squares: tartan
Closely associated with our British friends, tartan is extremely old: traces of it can be found as early as 3,500 BC in Asia, in Tokharian tombs. .
Of course, the Celtic peoples also marked the history of tartan, since they made this woolen fabric a real social and family marker. The colors and design of the pattern varied according to the social rank and geographical origin of the family.
The most famous of all tartans, emblem of the house of Burberry, the Haymarket Check.
It is a more complex pattern than other tiles because it can be seen as a superposition of checkerboards and multi-colored borders .
There are an infinite number of them, although some remain particularly famous, such as the Black Watch, the McLeod, or even the "powerful" Royal Stewart.
Black Watch, MacLeod and Royal Stewart: they are all familiar to us!
You will notice from these diagonals that tartan is a woven twill pattern. from mass-dyed yarns. Historically, it was a noble and expensive fabric due to the complexity of its manufacture.
Tartans were hijacked by punk movements, to the point of regularly appearing in the collections of alternative designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen.
Punks and designers are taking over Tartan to completely twist its meaning.
Nowadays, it tends to create a place of choice in the sartorial wardrobe. Far from its usual bright or garish colors, tartan is composed of more sober palettes of brown, gray, dark green...
Often designed in three pieces, the tartan suit is modernizing and evolving towards simpler and more fitted cuts. Despite a strong character, its elegance can make it a pattern adapted to the professional world , which can easily be transposed into a formal register.
In terms of matching, there is no problem: a plain shirt, simple and without artifice. Same for shoes. The suit is sufficient in itself.
The models marketed today are more or less sober and offer something for all tastes. Note the recurrence of the simple white shirt.
Tartan has a soul. It is one of those fabrics/patterns that have marked eras, places and even become real vectors of political and cultural messages.
Suffice to say that wearing tartan, without making you an inveterate rebel, nevertheless requires you to demonstrate a minimum of self-confidence...
I would really tend to encourage you to go for it. Although imposing, it does not offer fifty possible "readings": a three-room gray tartan, if it is clearly not a model of sobriety, will above all give off an impression of elegance and audacity. And there is no harm in standing out from the crowd in this sense 😉
The Tom Ford F/W 2009 campaign: one of the most striking ads in men's fashion. What's the first word that comes to mind when you see this suit?
The most royal: the Prince of Wales
We end the family of squares with the famous Prince of Wales.
Despite what its name suggests, it was designed for those - servants... - who were not allowed to wear tartan.
Even more than tartan, this emblematic pattern has been enjoying increasing success in recent years, especially in men's fashion. No less complex, it often remains finer and more discreet than its ancestor.
The formal version. Grey Prince of Wales suit with a few blue lines, baby blue shirt, green tie, brown shoes. Easy, right?
"Fantaisies" were therefore added to these superpositions of tiles, making up the base of the pattern: for example, we find houndstooth at the level of the "crossings" of lines.
Note the complexity and diversity of the patterns: contrasting houndstooth, oblique lines, straight lines, checkerboard...
In the United Kingdom, the Prince of Wales fits into a very casual, even sporty wardrobe... It being understood that no one is going to run in trousers like that, but rather play golf.
In the countries where it has been exported, such as France or Italy, the pattern has nevertheless integrated a very sartorial universe . We see it a lot on three-piece or more modern suits, especially in summer.
It often appears woven from shades of beige and brown, with the light hues often dominating the dark ones.
At SuitSupply you'll find three-piece Prince of Wales suits that are very dressy - almost too dressy.
It also has the particularity of easily matching beige chinos or jeans. Its casualness makes it a good client for casual shoes such as brogues or derbies, or even sneakers.
It is undoubtedly in this casual chic register that the Prince of Wales can be the most interesting. Enough to give free rein to your imagination!
I wouldn't have thought of raw denim with this jacket at first glance. However, with its "string beige" shades and the pale pink shirt, the combination works perfectly.
Stripes, a divisive pattern
Although stripes have always been part of the male wardrobe, some of them are particularly "connoted" and associated with a certain form of vulgarity.
However, they are capable of refining and lengthening a silhouette, we will come back to this.
Sobriety is essential...
It must be said that wide stripes are, in terms of suits, purely ridiculous. Unless you have an extremely strong style and therefore an incomparable mastery of elegance, it will be impossible to get away with them.
Also a bit outdated: the stripes of different colors that we saw a lot a few years ago. Remember those entry-level gray suits with those lines in purple tones, with variable width... This kind of "memory" remains but does not necessarily age well.
Legion in the 2000s, this type of pattern is really old and sad today. Beyond the random cut of the costume!
The elegance of fine stripes
The finer stripes, emblems of the sartorial universe: these are undoubtedly the most formal of all patterns . Consequently, their presence indicates an extremely formal register, so there is no point in trying to mismatch a jacket for example!
The more marked the contrast between the stripe and the shade of the fabric, the "stronger" the suit will be, a phenomenon which will be accentuated by double-breasted or three-piece cuts which are already very dressy.
Here are some examples to help you understand.
Two beautiful pieces where the stripes appear clearly, contrasting with the blue of the fabrics. The first model lengthens and refines the silhouette thanks to the fine and tight lines , much more than the second model. A good point for almost everyone, except for tall and thin people. Given its very formal side, a striped suit is almost always worn with a plain shirt, tie and pocket square... An outfit that could suit a groom.
So let's move on to something a little easier.
We're sticking with a dressy outfit on the left but already less strong, easier to appropriate. We could also have allowed ourselves a more casual pair of shoes. The second suit has, like the one above, spaced and thick stripes. That being said, the stripes/fabric contrast is less strong, which "smooths" the piece.
And we can go even further in this direction.
In these two examples, the fineness of the stripes and the low contrast make them blend in perfectly, without standing out. The looks are certainly still dressy, but easier to grasp because they are more discreet.
In conclusion on the stripes, we could say that experience will make the difference .
A seasoned man, sure of his tastes and style, may opt for a marked pattern and play on its classicism. On the other hand, someone less experienced will rather choose thin and less flashy lines.
The unclassifiable: good or bad idea?
Finally, there remains a series of “unclassifiable” patterns, unique in their kind.
Houndstooth: Better to go small
It has made a fairly marked comeback among the British and some Italians, no doubt for its vintage dimension.
For men, it remains quite rare, especially in terms of suits. If you come across one and it's love at first sight, why not, but be careful with the size of the patterns ! If they are too bulky, they become extremely flashy...
More and more brands are choosing to work with the "micro houndstooth", a mini version of the pattern. From a distance, it looks like tiny squares; up close, you can see its unique shape. In this case, we find ourselves faced with fairly casual pieces, easy to mismatch and almost rustic depending on the colors and materials.
The micro houndstooth remains visible, but easier to manage.
"Don't be a pea"
The polka dot suit instantly reminds me of Leo Messi in 2012, who posed with his Ballon d'Or wearing a Dolce & Gabbana ensemble.
Precisely, I would say that only slightly crazy Italians or football players under contract with luxury brands wear this pattern in a suit. Unless you come across polka dots that are really well "blended" into the fabric, which is not common.
Let's leave the polka dot suits to Messi...
The jumble of fantasies
Finally, you will have noticed that men's fashion is increasingly marked by prints of all kinds, from the most sober to the most eccentric.
This time, you're going to have to figure it out on your own: it's solely and exclusively a question of feeling. In itself, why not, but the universe in which you evolve will play a big part.
Needless to say, a neutral shirt is a must, as is a healthy dose of confidence. .
The opportunities to wear a costume covered in pumpkins seem as rare as those of seeing a Frenchman win Roland Garros in the next 10 years...
Selection: where to buy patterned suits?
Presumably, most mainstream suit brands will offer patterns that lend themselves to a professional context.
SuitSupply is without a doubt the best "general public" address for this type of piece. . There is everything, at an affordable price for a nice quality. Enough to please yourself without breaking the bank, even for a few rare occasions like weddings.
True to Italian flamboyance, Boggi also offers a great choice, with a selection that is perhaps a little more "fashionable".
The French Wicket is not to be outdone - particularly with its "sports" jackets and their well-executed patterns - nor is Louis Purple .
If you have the possibility, we encourage you to turn to custom brands. They do not have the same inventory issues, which allows them to offer more daring or sought-after fabrics .
The final word...
Once you have a solid base in terms of costumes, you are quickly tempted to explore new avenues. This obviously involves the type of material... but also the patterns.
While a suit remains an ultimately "neutral" piece, patterns bring it another tone. For example, a fine-striped suit will give off a very formal impression, unlike a more relaxed Prince of Wales blazer.
From squares to stripes, tartan to pineapple leaves, there really is something for everyone.
And if you need help, click here for all our advice on choosing a costume .
