To avoid missteps, check the following points:
1
The shoulder breaks in a straight line and without excess material.
2
Try on a sweater or jacket to anticipate the maximum volume you will wear under the coat in the middle of winter (you should feel supported but not compressed).
3
You should be able to close all the buttons.
4
The sleeves cover your wrists but not your hands.
5
For the length: prefer it above the knees for coats and below the buttocks for pea coats (don't hesitate to shorten it).
ORIGIN AND EVOLUTION OF THE COAT
Before the men's coat came in many forms, men covered themselves with simple sheets of more or less thick fabric. The Greeks called it a chlamys , or the Romans called it a toga .
Later, the Romans adorned themselves with a cape: a garment that would last through the ages. It was not until the 15th century that the cloak became more democratic and became similar to those we know today.
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF COATS
The coat represents a shell and plays an important role in your image. Of course it protects you from bad weather, but also and unconsciously, from the outside world.
It is not uncommon to find very fine coats, which are no longer really used for protection, but which offer presence.
But whatever your choice, avoid synthetic fibers that do not breathe (except for technical fibers that are really designed for this purpose). Prefer natural fibers like wool, mohair, cashmere (or even camel, yes, it's serious). You will wear your coat for a long time, so do not neglect this purchase.
CASUAL COAT STYLES...
THE PARKA
More or less long, the parka is a waterproof coat with a hood, which is characterized in particular by its drawstrings and its lining (sometimes in fur).
THE PEA COAT
Double-breasted coat, an icon of the sailor's wardrobe, it is distinguished by a wide tailored collar, thick blue or black wool fabric, and finally a double buttoning system, the buttons of which are often marked with an anchor.
THE DUFFLE COAT
The duffle coat consists of the following elements: a thick woolen cloth, two patch pockets, a hood (sometimes a button placket), woolen inserts at the shoulders. It is also characterized by its closing system consisting of straps and horn buttons.
THE DOWN JACKET
Close to a jacket for its length, it stops at the waist and has tightened ends. This piece is also close to the coat: quilted and padded with feathers or better down, today we find some models padded with technical fibers. These are easier to maintain and more respectful of living things!
...AND THE MOST FORMAL ONES
THE OVERLAY
The term overcoat covers all thick coats, straight or double-breasted, following tailoring techniques. We find the crombie coat (straight cut, the most classic), the chersterfield (hidden buttonhole and ticket pocket) or the ulster coat which includes a belt or a martingale.
THE MACKINTOSH
Without a doubt the most sober of all (smooth, hidden buttonhole and slash pockets), the Mackintosh stands out for its fabric: a totally waterproof rubberized canvas. Imagine with welded seams!
THE RAGLAN COAT
Similar to an overcoat, it is distinguished by its loose cut, but above all by the absence of shoulder seams. Its sleeves start at the base of the collar.