Finally! After many pitfalls due to Covid-19, we are very proud to present this collaboration with Kestin that we wanted to keep in the greatest secret.
Working with Kestin, such an experienced and respected designer, was an incredible experience for me, and it is an honor for BonneGueule to collaborate with this brand.
To summarize, here is what we are going to see together:
- It is a collaboration with Kestin, a Scottish brand with a "contemporary workwear" style.
- It is a 100% organic cotton parka in Ventile
- It is made in the UK
- There is a removable lining to wear it all year round
See the end of the article for details on shipping times!
A parka made for all year round!
As Kestin says:
Together we have created a parka of the highest quality, which is timeless and will only get better with age.
Kestin himself wearing our parka.
Organic cotton, made in UK, Ventile, Scotland, the program is busy, but first of all, let's see how I was able to meet Kestin.
Meeting Kestin… thanks to a reader!
It all started in spring 2019…
One day, I received an email from Ewen, a reader of BonneGueule. He told me that he worked for a Scottish brand, that they were present at a trade show in Paris and that I had to meet the designer, because we were on the same wavelength.
And you guessed it, it was Kestin.
Kestin has a really unique style.
I already knew the brand before, but here I was really able to appreciate and go into detail about what makes Kestin's collections so unique: this vintage/contemporary workwear spirit.
Kestin, he's a very very very cool guy , very smiling and welcoming.
I feel the same wavelength that I had with Mattia from ABCL or the Norwegian Rain team. Besides, Mattia and Kestin know each other a little from crossing paths at trade shows!
It perfectly illustrates our motto “Clothes and Men”…
He presents his collection to me in detail, and his use of Japanese materials or more technical fabrics speaks to me a lot, we have very similar tastes. Workwear, vintage, military, outdoor are his influences.
What do they have in common? Functional, practical clothing with a well-thought-out design thanks to Kestin’s experience.
There is talk of a possible collaboration, and it is clear that we must meet again with our teams.
Julien and I decided to go to Edinburgh a few months later, to immerse ourselves in Kestin's world.
Kestin's Universe in Edinburgh
This is my favorite part of a collaboration: meeting the creator in their living and working space. And in Kestin's case, I was not disappointed!
We arrive at their flagship, which is a boutique on the Edinburgh docks. The brand's office is just behind the boutique, and they're not alone. They're located in a creative hub that brings together photographers, designers, small marketing agencies, etc. It's an environment where I feel a real creative buzz.
The Kestin store, with the offices behind.
I would later learn that this place has a name, Custom Lane , and it was Kestin who developed it with a friend.
We meet Gemma, his partner who manages the brand's image, as adorable as he is (and she has a great workwear style in a feminine version).
As for the shop, it perfectly represents their motto "Subtle, but distinctive", with a refined decoration, and a few elements that give personality to this place. Exactly like the house where Kestin and Gemma live , where they do not want a decoration that is too precious, but rather that tells a real story.
Then we take the time to sit down and discover Kestin's influences.
“Subtle, yet distinctive”
He shows me a caving jacket from the 70s, with a cut at the shoulder that particularly interests him. A Gore-Tex mountaineering jacket from the 80s. Or even a military garment from the Second World War.
I also have the opportunity to discover his complete collection, and I am impressed by the maturity of his creative vision, everything is impeccably coherent. On the color side, we find quite a few shades like mustard, rust, but also pastel blues, khaki, sand or olive.
We feel that Kestin is a very experienced designer. But where does this experience in men's clothing come from?
A good overview of the colors Kestin uses in his shop.
Kestin and his journey
As you know, before talking about clothes, I like to know more about the man behind them, and even more when the designer in question is very humble and down to earth.
So, in Kestin's case, let's start at the very beginning, when he was a child...
Kestin child discovering style
His first influences, in terms of style, are… his father and his grandfather!
In fact, his father was an architect and a very good designer, it was he who gave Kestin a taste for drawing and creation.
With him, he goes fly fishing, and he enjoys outdoor outings more than anything, hence his future taste for clothes that can be worn every day, whether for a walk at the edge of a forest or on the beach.
As for his grandfather, his name is Bill Hare, he was a former Royal Air Force pilot, and Kestin was fascinated by his adventures in Rhodesia… and his military uniform.
It was this famous RAF jacket that would give rise to one of the very first pieces that Kestin would manufacture.
As Kestin says, his grandfather was a man with a hell of a style, but he didn't realize it. And that's exactly what I thought when I saw Kestin... He reminds me of Mattia from ABCL: a super stylish guy, but who seems miles away from worrying about his style.
It’s a very uninhibited state of mind about clothing, both very detached and passionate.
But I digress!
He tried to study architecture, but failed the entrance exam.
And finally, his entry into the world of fashion will come down to very little...
His studies in fashion
Kestin is someone who loves clubbing and electro. He had a friend who was very involved in this culture and together they decided to visit his little sister in Newcastle. She was studying fashion there, and it was a trigger for Kestin.
He decides to apply and he is accepted!
This is how she began her studies in fashion, despite, by her own admission, a first year of school very focused on electro parties...
Kestin is very inspired by some of his teachers, experienced in the world of ready-to-wear, and this reinforces his choice.
By "coincidence", the husband of one of her teachers was head of design at Nigel Cabourn.
Kestin and Nigel Cabourn: the beginning of a long story
And it is impossible to talk about his career without mentioning Nigel Cabourn.
Nigel Cabourn is a veteran designer and one of the pioneers of "contemporary workwear". He was also one of the first designers to bring the Ventile back into the spotlight. He is a very respected designer and he is regularly photographed in the street .
Nigel Cabourn, the legend! Image credit: Backyard Yill
And that's how Kestin got his first internship at Nigel Cabourn. He explains that before he met Nigel Cabourn, he already loved vintage clothing, but now he's taken it to another level.
Kestin really understood how vintage could be a starting point for designing clothes. This was especially fortunate for Kestin as Nigel was one of the biggest vintage clothing collectors in the world.
He admires Nigel's willingness to travel to the four corners of the world to find rare pieces and try to replicate them, using the same period fabrics... in the original factories!
He continued his studies at Reiss, a British brand unknown in France, with a mid-range positioning around elegant and urban clothing.
This is where Kestin becomes passionate about working in a creative studio.
Eventually, his studies ended and he returned to work at Nigel Cabourn, and his taste for vintage only grew. It was at this time that he became "Head of Design" (=collection manager) for 8 years.
Nigel's focus on quality led Kestin to travel all over the UK to get to know every factory in the country.
These were very formative years for Kestin, and he still has a great deal of gratitude for watching Nigel struggle to source rare fabrics and continually challenge the British textile industry.
When asked why he decided to leave Nigel Cabourn 8 years later, Kestin explains that Nigel is a great purist of vintage and replica, and that he wanted to bring a more technical and modern touch.
He then left Newcastle for Edinburgh and became a freelancer for Burberry and Margaret Howell.
But deep down, he has this desire... This desire to do things by himself and for himself, drawing on his experience and the relationships he has built with British factories.
And here too, fate will give him a little helping hand.
The birth of the Kestin brand
He is approached by the founder of a shoe brand made in Northampton who wants to launch clothing. This brand is Common People.
But things didn't work out, and on the suggestion of a Japanese partner, he decided to sell the last pieces of this brand under his name, even though he had never thought of doing so.
Kestin doing quality control in a factory.
A brand that synthesizes:
- the importance of the outdoors in Kestin's life
- its link with vintage
- his taste for the British textile industry
- his experience with fabrics
- his life in Scotland, with this taste for simple and authentic moments
Here is a mood board that perfectly illustrates the variety of Kestin's inspirations.
Kestin sums it up like this:
We don't follow trends, we produce clothes that last and get better with age. We are a small team of passionate people who love what we do. We create with emotion and we want our pieces to make you feel something.
I also want to show you a side of Scotland you didn't know existed, sharing parts of our culture that aren't seen and explaining what makes us tick.
The Kestin brand was born for good.
Color, texture, vintage, functional: all Kestin summed up in a single silhouette.
Then, little by little, Kestin's unique creative touch hit the mark and word of mouth grew. The brand is now distributed in dozens of renowned points of sale around the world.
After taking the time to set the context, it is time to get into the details of this parka.
Why a parka with Kestin?
In fact, Kestin has a great mastery of outerwear, for two reasons:
- he lives in Scotland
- and it's a flagship type of piece that he's worked on at Nigel for almost a decade
He has a long experience in cutting a shoulder, the width of a sleeve, the length of a parka, the fall of a hood, etc.
As Kestin says, outerwear is the ultimate test for a designer, because you have to create a piece that is beautiful and obviously functional.
Julien and I spot a nylon parka from summer 2019, itself based on an M-51 parka. It’s a piece that Kestin really likes for its functionality and its instantly recognizable style.
Kestin also likes the "mods" style, this subculture of the 50s in the United Kingdom .
A photo that illustrates well the central role of the parka among mods.
As a reminder, at the time of the mods, the parka was an inexpensive way to protect your costume during a scooter ride. An indestructible piece, terribly practical, conducive to customization, it didn't take much for the parka to become an essential piece among mods.
It's this mix of genres that I find really interesting. I couldn't find a better quality photo unfortunately!
Personally, I really like their boldness at the time, where they weren't afraid to wear such a piece over a very formal outfit.
Our interpretation of a BonneGueule x Kestin parka
As Kestin says:
This is a parka for life: a classic with a design that will never be dated, with quality finishes for a very durable and warm piece. Every little detail has been thought of to make it practical while maintaining a very simple design: sophisticated, subtle, but distinctive.
We therefore decided to reinterpret it with a more "purist" approach in Kestin's words: using a technical removable lining and Ventile, a high-performance material that he has also worked with for years and that we chose around a common passion.
A Ventile… in organic cotton!
It was obvious that by collaborating with a Scottish brand, we had to use this fabric created half a century ago in the United Kingdom, designed to withstand all kinds of bad weather!
🌊 IT'S WATER RESISTANT
This is THE feature of the Ventile! Its operation is easy to understand: it is a densely woven cotton that prevents water from entering.
🌬️ IT'S BREATHABLE
Ventile claims that it is the most breathable waterproof fabric available. I wouldn't go that far, but it is clear that its breathability far exceeds that of any membrane. Simply because air can easily circulate between the cotton fibers, unlike the plastic film of a membrane.
🌪️ IT'S WINDPROOF
Since Ventile has a very dense weave, it effectively protects against the wind, and that is why it is appreciated by some Arctic explorers, the challenge for them being to have a very breathable fabric, which allows the vapor to escape from the body while protecting them from the wind.
🤫 IT'S QUIET
A synthetic technical fabric sometimes makes a little "noise" when you move, because of its cracking hand. On Ventile, this is not the case, and it will make as much noise as if you move with a cotton shirt, namely not much.
🌦️ IT'S SUITABLE FOR ALL CLIMATES
Obviously, it is a very useful fabric against the rain, but not only that.
Ventile says it's a fabric you can wear "while salmon fishing in Scotland, hiking in the Alps or during a windy golf lesson."
And again, I'm being nice, but know that Ventile jackets have been worn in the high mountains to climb Everest, in the Arctic by Ranulph Fiennes or even in the jungle under the recommendation of General MacArthur!
⚒️ IT'S SUSTAINABLE
Not only does Ventile take on a nice patina over time, but it is also a durable fabric over time. No delamination issues or blisters that can happen on a frequently used membrane fabric jacket.
This may seem like a trivial point, but it changes everything: Ventile is a fabric that withstands use over several years much better than a technical membrane.
🖼️ AND IT'S BEAUTIFUL!
Since it is a 100% cotton fabric, we are light years away from a "plastic" rendering of a technical polyester fabric.
Cotton will age and patina beautifully. It is common for high-end heritage/vintage/workwear brands to use Ventile for trench coats, parkas, windbreakers and even safari jackets.
On the BonneGueule side, although it is a material that we have worked on quite a bit, we wanted to focus more on the environmental issue. It is therefore a Ventile from the "organic cotton" range .
Its weight of 252g/m2 is one of the highest at Ventile, it is the assurance of having a parka that will age well over time. .
Important note: the model is 1m88 tall!
As I mentioned, Kestin has a special history with the Ventile:
Ventile is one of the first technical fabrics that was introduced to me, it is a material for which I have nostalgia and which propels me back to my beginnings as a designer.
It is a fabric that Nigel Cabourn introduced him to 20 years ago, during his first steps in men's ready-to-wear. He particularly likes this natural touch, due to the 100% cotton, unlike the synthetic hand of a Gore-Tex.
Attention to detail
A zipped pocket
Under the left pocket, there is a small zipped pocket which allows you to secure some personal effects such as card holders, headphones, keys, etc.
It was a request from Julien and me, because as you know, I like to have a small zipped pocket that reassures me.
A raglan assembly at the shoulders
Like our Ventile jacket , the shoulders have a raglan assembly. In the case of these outdoor pieces, this type of assembly is more relevant, because in the event of a downpour, it prevents water from falling directly onto the seam and seeping in.
A removable Climashield liner
As I told you, we wanted to make this parka a piece that can be worn all year round, and that's why we asked Kestin to add a removable lining.
You can therefore remove the lining using a button system.
The basic pattern did not include a removable lining, but Kestin liked the idea.
We insisted that the insulation be Climashield, because you know my love for this technical wadding, which has proven itself perfectly, whether with our customers or with the outdoor/military brands that use it.
Kestin did not know this insulation, he had never worked with it, and so this is the very first Climashiend garment stamped Kestin.
Having brought this insulation to a designer as experienced as Kestin, that's my little pride!
I've explained at length why I love Climashied so much, so I'll reiterate the key points:
- These are continuous filaments: they therefore have much better resistance over time.
- it resists compression very well, it regains its loft very quickly
- It wicks away moisture, unlike down which has trouble managing it
For more details on the Climashield, I invite you to (re)read the presentation article of our coach jacket .
Here it is Climashield Contur with a weight of 120g/m2.
That's the weight of the Climashield used by hikers who complete the PCT , this very long hike on the American coast, over several months, where you pass through burning deserts and snow. And they can only carry one mid layer, which must be useful in a maximum of situations, neither too cold nor too hot.
It was important to me to have a fairly light lining to allow you to wear a chunky knit underneath if necessary, or even one of our thick cardigans.
This allows you to have a very fine "adjustment" of the right level of thermal insulation by playing on the removable lining and on the thickness of the mesh that you wear.
And if you ever want to wear our sleeveless vests underneath, know that the two layers of Climashield added together are comparable to the thickness of Climashield used for cold weather clothing from outdoor brands.
🇬🇧 Little cocorico point: the nylon of the lining comes from a French company!
A parka "made in UK"
This is something that was very close to Kestin's heart: he wanted this parka to be made in the UK, like 50% of Kestin's collections (the rest is in Portugal).
It is made in one of the oldest outerwear workshops near London.
My personal experience: at what temperatures should I wear this parka?
Ah, the million dollar question (of parkas)! I am starting to have a long experience with the Ventile and the Climashield, and the more time passes, the more I can refine and complete my answer to this question.
Without the removable liner
Without the lining, this is a parka that is designed to be worn well into the summer. In fact, if you ever have a rainy summer, this is clearly the most breathable rainwear you can have, far ahead of a membrane.
From my personal experiences:
- parka + t-shirt/shirt: between 23°C and 17°C (well, you can go up to 15°C if you walk briskly)
- parka + cotton sweatshirt: between 20°C and 15°C
- parka + blazer and shirt: between 20°C and 12°C (thanks to the thermoregulating wool of the blazer)
- parka + fine wool sweater: between 17°C and 10°C
- parka + medium/thick wool sweater: you can go down to 5°C
Obviously, this is not to be taken lightly. first degree, but it gives you a good idea of what to expect.
With removable lining
This is where it becomes a piece capable of facing winter, and here again here are my recommendations based on my personal experience:
- parka + removable lining + t-shirt/shirt: between 18°C and 12°C
- parka + removable lining + cotton sweatshirt: between 15°C and 10°C
- parka + removable lining + blazer and shirt: between 15°C and 8°C (thanks to the thermoregulating wool of the blazer)
- parka + removable lining + fine wool sweater: between 10°C and 5°C
- parka + removable liner + medium/thick wool sweater: you can go down to -5°C, but you'd better wear your warmest clothes underneath.
So if I have to summarize, I would say that it can be worn from 23°C (and more particularly in hot and rainy climates) to -5°C.
When I tell you that the intention was to make it a 4-season piece...
Our parka in action
I will give you a concrete case of use of this parka.
In two weeks, I'm going to Tours for a few days. It will be between 10°C and 18°C. And a lot of rain is forecast.
I'm going with a rather casual style (sweatshirt, sneakers), but I'll still take a blazer with a shirt.
And for the trip, I want to take a backpack, so it is absolutely necessary to have an outdoor piece without padding on the shoulders so as not to damage it with the backpack straps.
What piece of outerwear can handle rain and be worn with a blazer and Chelsea boots one evening and then a sweatshirt and sneakers the next?
There you have it, you have just understood all the possibilities of this parka. By playing with the removable lining and the mesh underneath, you multiply the thermal amplitude of this piece.
My 2020 Adventures with the Ventile
This summer, I had the opportunity to experience the benefits of Ventile three times in moderate temperatures:
In Brittany
In June, I am invited to a charming civil wedding in La Trinité-Sur-Mer. I have a blazer, a shirt, it is 20°c and… a magnificent Breton drizzle begins.
At this point, I bless the breathability of the Ventile, which allowed me to effectively protect myself from this drizzle while still letting me breathe with my blazer.
In Scotland
In August, I was in a completely remote area near Inverness, with a lot of wind, a good downpour… and a temperature of just under 20°C.
We walked on a hill, on a slope, and the Ventile played its role perfectly against the rain, while being more breathable than a membrane.
From experience, I know that an "active" walk, uphill, with mild temperatures and a membrane, would have made me much warmer.
In Biarritz
If you have ever been to the Basque Country, you know how the weather in summer can vary greatly over the course of a day. But it always remains very humid, even when it is hot.
There was a heavy downpour as we were returning from a restaurant, with a temperature of over 20°C. Needless to say, in these conditions, even the smallest membrane quickly becomes stifling.
The Ventile is therefore ideal for this type of situation, with a simple shirt underneath.
By the way, for the record, my father needed a rain jacket after my parents moved to the Basque country two years ago. He wanted to go back to a membrane jacket, but I preferred to get him a Ventile jacket, much better suited to the humidity in the Basque country. Two years later, he is absolutely delighted with it!
And as Kestin would say:
"Long live Frecosse! ahah"
How to get our BonneGueule x Kestin parka?
Visit our stores in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux and on our e-shop.
When will this parka ship?
This parka will be available on the eshop from Saturday, September 26, but shipping will take place at the end of October, for reasons completely beyond our control.
You can well imagine that on this collaboration that we were so happy to present to you, the slightest delay in delivery breaks our hearts.
We are fighting, we are not giving up so that it happens sooner, and if we manage to bring the deadline forward, you will be informed, in particular by this updated article.
Thank you all for your support which warms our hearts in the face of delivery problems!
And I insist on this point: the parka can be ordered from Saturday September 26 on the eshop.
