Mastering monochrome: tips and inspiration

Maîtriser le monochrome : conseils et inspirations
On the menu: ideas for putting together new outfits with your clothes in the same tones, principles to follow so that they are never monotonous and some lessons to learn from catwalk fashion. Stylistic nutrition to enjoy comfortably on your sofa, with a Chai latte or a Candy Up.

#1: Play with volumes

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Zegna Fall-Winter 2023 fashion show.

It's unlikely that you'd want to show up dressed like this man in front of the coffee machine on a Monday morning (some of us would be capable of it, and I think I'm one of them, but it's incurable and there's nothing we can do for us anymore). On the other hand, runway outfits like this one have things to teach us. They feed us with new ideas and reveal principles to apply to hit the mark with our ootd.

The first one I see here: when an outfit only has one color, you have to try to distract the eye on other levels.

And the plan, on this outfit, is to entertain with dimensions: straight jacket, flared sleeves, wide pants.

What I find interesting is that she doesn't just pile on baggy clothes. There's a real play on draping: the cut of the pants gives rise to excess fabric, folds that highlight its fluidity. Conversely, the jacket falls straight and clean. Almost no folds. A contrast of levels of relief supported by the generous folds of the collar.

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These two looks from Fendi's Spring Summer 2024 show illustrate the same idea: when colors are similar, they take a back seat and volumes lead the dance. Here too, the designers don't settle for excessive amplitude. They tame it by arranging these volumes, to draw interesting lines. A flared jacket and straight pants that form a diamond silhouette. A straight coat that contrasts with the fitted bottom of pants.

The lesson to be learned for our monochromes is therefore not the need to add an apron over our pants, but that of paying particular attention to the silhouette we are drawing. To do this, simply try on the pieces, observe yourself in the mirror and ensure that the proportions are consistent while tracing a structured silhouette.

Very nice case study on the merciless terrain of urban life by @stylist_minimal_k on Instagram:

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In addition to highlighting the fall of its material, the coat draws an inverted V. A cone, a pyramid, it's up to you, but you get the idea. It's ample, certainly, but it draws a concrete and interesting shape.

Less wide, the pants calm things down while remaining consistent with the volume of the coat since it is a straight cut.

If you want to go further in the volume-mastery-game, there are Jedi masters in the field to follow like @abousega and his friends.

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If you want to go less extreme, wide-leg pants and a straight sweater can go a long way in adding visual interest to a monochrome.

And of course, "playing with volumes" does not always mean "wearing loose clothing". This outfit by Brunello Cucinelli is proof of this, with a well-defined carrot cut.

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#2: Play with textures

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Ami Fall-Winter 2019 Fashion Show.

If we cannot entertain the eye by associating colors, we can do so by associating materials by varying the textures.

Good practice to take from the outfit above: the curls of the coat and the cables of the sweater give very different reliefs. It sets the two pieces apart. It makes the outfit richer and more readable. A bit like when you combine two patterns: you take different drawings and scales so that the eye can easily read one, then the other.

From these ideas, all you have to do is have fun seeing which textures match or not in your wardrobe.

Here, quilted vest + flannel by our friend @paulbinam :

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Textured knit + denim by @abdel.amh:

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Crochet + jersey + linen for summer by @timothykoh_ :

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And an interesting idea: combine the worn effect of denim with the beige of cotton outerwear. By @miles.creates :

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#3: Play with patterns

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Officine Générale fashion show, Spring-Summer 2023.

Same interest and same advice as for the texture. I will simply add that the background of the pattern must be in the main color of the outfit. This way, you will be sure to obtain the continuity you are looking for.

For example, on this summer outfit from the killer @sam.binstead, the widest and most present stripes are indeed in the color of the pants:

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Same for the beige base (or khaki, but the debate can always be settled by a fight in the comments) of this jacket from @cedoceltic on Insta, which blends well into the continuity of the outfit.

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Outfit with added fun by @sideadjuster.

Another cool idea I came across in my explorations: slipping a camo pattern into a monochrome of greens. Thanks @harris_vignozzi.

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Not a full monochrome, but the principle applies well.

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Between texture and pattern: enriching a monochrome with the design of a quilt. By @haze2thegan 👏.

#4: Play with overlays

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Engineered Garments Lookbook, Fall-Winter 2023.

An even more interesting avenue to explore with the other advice in this article, such as alternating textures:

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Look Aspesi.

Play on volumes and let the drapes express themselves:

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Barena Venezia lookbook, always so well executed. Notice how the accumulations of collars and buttons do not create discord, due to their different sizes and distributions.

Play on volumes + textures:

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Still the Officine Générale Fall-Winter 2023 show, which is precisely on the theme of monochrome. I highly recommend it, it's beautiful!

Volumes + drapes + a pattern:

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@shuhei_nishiguchi still looking so impeccable. My theory is that he wakes up like this in his bed in the morning.

#5: Play with details

Or put the cherry on your monochrome cake (the exact opposite of the rainbow cake, after all).

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Here, @Kevismanzi (whose work is summed up in two emojis: 👏 🙌) breaks the monotony with a multi-colored hat and sweater, some of which match her monochrome. The yellow socks are obviously a good idea too.

On the accessory trail, there is of course the cap (from @jonsjawns here) and the scarf (hello @maninwave ):

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@untledgrd. It's more of a monochrome but the scarf would work well with a sweater in the same gray as the pants.

Contrasting with a belt and shoes can also be enough. Proof provided by @conradssonphilip.

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And a monochrome, it's also the time or never to take out your best assortment of chains. Isn't that right @timdessaint?

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Basic tips if you don't know where to start: you can pair silver as a gray accessory, so with a monochrome of blue, black or gray and gold as a yellow accessory, so with a monochrome of beige, brown or khaki.

Of course, this is not an absolute rule. Just enjoy yourself.

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@boon.vivant_ caught red-handed slashing a screen 👏.

#6: Cheat with close shades

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@stylist_minimal_k, again!

In this outfit, the gray of the knitwear and the blue of the denim are so close that they form an almost single-color continuity.

Personally, to identify the ones that match in this way in my wardrobe, I simply spread everything out on my bed and watch for similarities. It gives me ideas that I hadn't thought of before. Maybe it will give you some too.

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@abdel.amh (again) with ecru and a very pale pink.

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@out_of_offfice with pants that are very slightly blue and an ecru shirt.

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Our dear @friengo, whose ecru cardigan enhances the outfit without breaking its uniformity.

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An outfit designed by @mr.saint_georges. The green and beige are so close that it's almost monochrome here too.

And since we're talking about monochrome, I think these two looks from @gi.sh apply all of the advice mentioned well:

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Up to you

And share your monochrome exploits with us on Instagram, Discord, by email or registered mail.

I sincerely hope that this article has contributed to this ✌️

Michel Bojarun Michel Bojarun
Michel Bojarun,

Full-time clothing geek at BonneGueule and temporary turntable geek at Berghain (one day). Lover of straight pants, tank tops, gold chains, western belts (2cm wide max, obviously) and *insert any retro-kitsch clothing*.

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